Hakkasan
Crab meat and sweet corn supreme soup
Peking duck with Tsar Nicoulai reserve caviar, hoisin
Dim sum platter – har gau, scallop shumai, perch dumpling, black pepper and pumpkin duck dumpling
Braised whole seabass and egg tofu in claypot
Fried rice with diced abalone
Crispy prawn with dried chili and cashew nut
Spicy Szechuan rib-eye beef with enoki mushrooms
Roasted crispy chicken with wild mushroom in oyster sauce
Black sesame and chocolate dumplings with ginger tea and finger lime
Yuzu Macaron with Chocolate Cream
With Michelin stars decorating locations in New York as well as London, and a similar menu of modernized Cantonese cuisine from Chef Ho Chee Boon offered here in Las Vegas, it was only a matter of time before I visited Hakkasan at The MGM and with the 2014 “Golden Week” menu proposing an opportunity to experience a number of plates without investing in a $250+ Peking Duck or $35 fried rice it was with a friend that I finally sat down to dine amidst the darkened labyrinth beneath America’s most lucrative club. Grand in size, with soaring ceilings and dark woods juxtaposing white leather and signature styling, a meal at Hakkasan begins with check-in at an outer atrium and soon to be led between several dividers that serve to break the room into a series of alcoves it was expectedly the wine and cocktail list that arrived first, the upsale on from the start and continuing as the a la carte menu was presented with no mention of Golden Week to be found. Pleasant and competent in service, despite obviously ignoring the notes in my reservation requesting the special menu and a seat with good light, it was with a single a la carte option that our meal began and with the intricate broth surprisingly vegetal to balance the sweetness of fresh crab I only wish we’d have had more time to enjoy it – the first course of dim sum and duck arriving hot on its heels with no more than two bites enjoyed. Opting to set aside soup in order to focus on the progression of tastes it was with a sampling of the aforementioned duck that Golden Week began and essentially using the briny eggs to offset the fatty bird’s sapor each bite was pure indulgence, the skin so thin it seemed razor cut and the attention to detail soon found to be duplicated in a steamer basket of dumplings from which both the spicy duck and creamy scallop shined. Moving quickly to round two as I again attempted to enjoy the now-cool soup it was here that a trio of plates was presented and with promises that the ‘rest’ was soon to come I finally explained that the kitchen needed to slow down, a request thankfully met by allowing us to focus on what was present – the aromatic clay pot and fried rice loaded with tender abalone amongst the very best plates of the meal while the spicy shrimp in an admixture of peppers and nuts was the sort of thing I knew I’d regret later as beads of sweat burst forth from my brow. At this point only fifty minutes into the meal it was thankfully after a short break that round three arrived and with both dishes using mushrooms as a base to impeccable proteins it was something of a surprise that the tender beef proved to be the best dish of the meal, a melting mouthfeel amidst innumerable spices and light acid that fully engaged the palate without coming off as ‘hot’ in the least. Rounding out the evening it was in a bowl of six glutinous rice dumplings that we indulged and with melted dark chocolate bursting forth to mix with cells of finger lime and a broth of light ginger one could not help but swoon, a similar citrus and cocoa experience offered in a duo of golden macarons presented in a take-home box at the meal’s end.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Decidedly expensive for a meal that lasted just ninety minutes I remain perplexed to this moment as to why the kitchen felt the need to send plates in clusters at such a rapid rate but with that issue aside I’m happy to say that both ingredients and preparation were exquisite, the opportunity to experience the duck without investing in a whole-prep particularly welcomed considering the sizable scoops of caviar while every other plate was delicious and surprisingly well portioned considering the tasting menu format.
RECOMMENDED: Braised whole seabass and egg tofu in claypot, Fried rice with diced abalone, Spicy Szechuan rib-eye beef with enoki mushrooms.
AVOID: The Dim Sum was good but certainly not justifying the normal menu price of $24. Similarly, while admittedly decadent and delicious, all but the most serious caviar lover would be foolish to spend nearly $300 on the whole Peking Duck – an equally delicious version offered at 1/3 the price at both Blossom or all-you-care-to-eat on the Jasmine Sunday brunch.
TIP: With tasting menus and prix-fixe options frequently offered with several options in each course those looking to experience Hakkasan at its best are advised to bring a few friends, each person opting for something different and thus allowing ample sampling of portions that trend far larger than one would expect on The Strip.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://hakkasan.com/locations/hakkasan-las-vegas/

