Rebel Restaurant
Housemade Beef Jerky
Squid Ink Pierogi with Pork and Squid over Spicy Eggplant Puree, Herb Butter
Fried Tripe Poutine with Foie Gras Black Pepper Gravy, Cheese Curds, Parsley
Smoked Crab Hush Puppies with Bacon Braised Cabbage, Malt Vinegar Gastrique
Lobster Panna Cotta with Chunks of Lobster, Diavolo Sauce, Black Sesame Puree, Sunchoke Chips
PB&J with Peanut Butter Marshmallow, Graham Cracker Crust, Frozen Wonderbread Mousse, Grape Jelly
Upsidedown Blood Orange Polenta Cake with Whipped Cream, Olive Oil Powder, Rosemary
Easily the most innovative restaurant to open in Denver over the past several years, it was at Rebel Restaurant that I sat down to dinner Thursday evening, and although perhaps a bit out of the way by some accounts the Dive Bar turned culinary concept built by Kickstarter is firing on all cylinders, not one of seven plates failing to induce excitement through its combination of textures and flavors.
Toqued by Dan Lasily and loosely described as Ukranian cuisine, though Asian and Western European concepts clearly come into play in terms of plating, seasoning and style, sitting down at the bar is a good bet for solo diners as the rest of the space includes communal tables topped with stylish pitchers, the Dark Metal soundtrack loud enough to be heard though equally easy to ignore.
Decorated inside and out by local artists, the Street-style sensibilities entirely in line with food that even the barmen can describe in great detail, any meal at Rebel should begin with housemade jerky sold by the ounce and no less so the daily Pierogi which was offered here tinged in Squid Ink atop a bed of Babaganoush with a pad of herb butter slowly melting and every bit worth the bargain basement cost.
Benefitted by Happy Hour discounts, though menu prices themselves are exceedingly affordable considering the ingredient quality and detail involved in each plate, dinner continued with a large bowl of crispy fried tripe topped in squeaky curds plus spiced gravy fortified by creamy duck liver, the tender cornmeal hushpuppies consisting of nearly half crustacean with the bright gastrique playing well off briny bacon and buttery cabbage.
Acknowledging a second dinner to follow, but unable to pass up an entrée or desserts, savory seafood Panna Cotta proved every bit as elegant as its constituents would indicate, and far less stiffened by gelatin than some versions the custard reminisced of Bisque in a good way beneath spicy Diavolo Sauce and earthy chips that contrasted sweet lobster meat, the PB&J presenting every bit as much intrigue with a soft, spongy base and “Wonderbread” whipped topping while the upside down cake was actually quite traditional but delicious just the same.
http://www.rebelrestaurantdenver.com/

