Considered by many to be as synonymous to the canele as Laduree is with the macaron, it was no more than ten minutes after getting checked-in to the hotel that way was made to Baillardran and although several locations dot the map of Bordeaux it was to the Rue Porte-Dijeaux that the GPS was set, this location one of the few where the signature pastry was baked on-site throughout the day.
Located in a luxury shopping district, a feature held in common with at least three more shops passed during the subsequent two days, the glow of Baillardran at the heart of historic city center is visible at a distance of at least one hundred yards and entering the shop one is instantly struck by its brightness, the glint of glass and glistening pastries alongside copper molds all flooding the visual field while cinnamon, vanilla, and rum permeate the nares.
More pricey than it perhaps should be, the labor intense process of making canele plus fanciful design no doubt playing a part, it was after waiting on an elderly French couple that the young clerk turned her attention to me and with options for packaging almost more plentiful than the number of options offered it was eventually ten items that were selected, six macarons baked at the Cours de l’intendance location joining four warm custard cakes.
Offering a trio of two-tops for those looking to dine in, and perhaps to enjoy a spot of Illy with their sweets, it was quickly with boxes unwrapped that first bites were taken, the shell on the golden rum-spiked signature a crackling masterpiece giving way to creamy insides while the newly launched vanilla version was a bit less perfect on the pliable outside, but awash with vanilla and just as smoothly textured within.
Consuming just two of the four caneles before moving on to macarons, Baillardran’s selection consisting of fourteen choices ranging large to small, white glove service ammusingly saw six brightly colored jewels plucked from their bins, the textures of Rhum Raisin and Cookie Butter a bit compromised by time pent chilling while the Salty Caramel, Pistachio, Pomme D’Amour, and pleasantly bitter Espresso were every bit on par the best found in Europe…a place where even McDonald’s has put their foot in the ‘artisan’ pastry door.
Frog Leg Croquette, Tart of Fall, Black Walnut Brioche
Whole Grain and Olive Breads, Salted Butter from a Small local farm
“Surprise Exquisite” Truffle Zephyr as a Cloud on a delicate garden soup
Silky Blinis of Black and White Truffles
Half of a Lobster, Roasted and Lightly Smoked in the Hearth – Country Style Sweet Onion
Roast Duck Liver Like an Apple Pie with Sweet and Sour Marmalade
Elderflower Granite
Chalousse’s Opulent Guinea Fowl on the Embers – Fine Stew of Lamb Sweetbreads, Morels, Olives
Cheese Cart
Mandarin from Laborde’s Gardens – Mandarin Breathtaking Souffle with Crunchy Hazelnut Finger
Pear and Apple Tarts
Considered a founding father of the “nouvelle cuisine” movement often linked to Paul Bocuse, Michel Guerard is perhaps best known as the inventor of “cuisine minceur,” and still perfecting this style of ‘slimming cooking’ at the age of 82 years in the kitchens of his eponymous resort in Eugénie les Bains it would be hard to call my Sunday lunch in the formal dining room anything less than perfect, the service perfect as the space and every bite from canapes to mignardises worthy of thirty-nine years with three Michelin Stars.
Built on private grounds by royals long passed as a place to relax away from Paris while enjoying the local hot springs, a visit to Les Pres d’Eugenie begins at a guardhouse and with reservations confirmed a short drive plus a walk through manicured gardens leads to a lovely reception area, an escort to the dining room showing high wood-beamed ceilings and wicker chairs in wait, the two-tops big enough for four and whimsically lined with nick-knacks including fruits, bunnies, flowers, and a tiny cage.
Offering a la carte options as well as a quartet of tastings ranging from a three course lunch to the opulent Palais Enchante to which I added an extra course plus cheese, canapes begin to arrive even before selections are made, and with the former Maitre d’ of Le Saint James leading a staff of young men and women every description was succinct yet thorough, a trio of fried frog leg, vegetable tart, and bitter-sweet brioche pleasantly preparing the palate for the delicate flavors to come.
Not ready for wine considering the late night before and early morning drive from Spain, it was with water alongside nectar that the meal took place and eating far too much bread both on its own accord and as a delivery mechanism for world-class butter the menu began with one of Guerard’s time-tested signatures, the “Surprise Exquisite” every bit living up to its name with a floating island of white truffles topped in Black Perigord slices in a chilled cauliflower soup lightly tinged with leaks plus a crispy Comte lattice.
In reality a ‘difficult’ menu, most courses offering a choice while the rest of the bill of fare was rife with temptation, round two continued the truffle theme with a plate of oversized blinis sandwiching thick slices black as well as white and with each bite perfuming the palate with heavenly aromatics the only real question was how slowly one could eat in order to truly savor the moment…and how best to gather up all the sauce without licking the plate.
Onward to another signature, this the only portion of the Palais Enchante that did not offer an alternative plate, there was little doubt that Guerard’s Roasted Lobster would be the picture of excellence, but what truly stood out was the “Country Style” Onion, its top removed with the inside charred and refilled with a silky custard that could have just as well been eaten for dessert as it was between bites of the tender, lightly smoked meat.
Having already that the carte featured nearly a dozen items that caught my eye, course four was purchased as a supplement from the daily “Terroir Sublime,” and although meat pies, venison, and trotters with eel also sounded lovely it would be hard to imagine any as unique and beautifully executed as the medallion of foie gras draped in roast apples with confit onion marmalade, the sauce and roasted garden vegetables adding to the visual effect while also helping to offset the richness at the center of the plate.
Treated to a refreshing herbal granita moments after the whole bird in which I was about to indulge was presented tableside atop glowing embers from the fire, the word ‘opulent’ found new definition in the juicy breast of guinea hen stuffed with forcemeat, mushrooms, and cheese while the chlorophyll-tinged coronet alongside was every bit as lovely with briny olives and capers finding their foil in lima beans and late season morels along with tendrils of peas and lightly seared sweetbreads.
Unable to resist a cheese-cart that required a two-persons assist both ways as the result of recently broken wheel, those interested in classics as well as a few local specialties froim ewe and goat would be well advised to take a look, and moving on to dessert it was at the recommendation of the Maitre d’ that the restaurant’s signature souffle was selected, the tall and proud example absolutely textbook as vanilla ice-cream and a citrus reduction tickled the palate amidst the lightest hints of booze.
Nearly as taken by the two fruit tarts and hazelnut financier as I was by the fluffy finale itself it was with a brief tour of the building, kitchen, and lounge that the visit would conclude and pointing out details dating back to the earliest ages of the resort before introducing me to Chef Guerard himself it would be hard to imagine an individual more humble or pleasant, a genuine zest for life and levity as present in his face as it is throughout the cuisine as well as the space.
Part of a group of independently owned Basque bakeries collectively flying under the Ogi Berri Bread Company banner, Pasteleria Okindegia on Kalea Usandizaga was selected for road snacks en route to Bordeaux, and with some of the friendliest service encountered in all of San Sebastian the compilation of six French and Spanish pastries was not only a bargain at just €8.65, but for the most part also quite good.
Small like most bakeries of Europe, the standing space flanked on three sides by cases, tables, and racks with no less than fifty items up for offer, it was to Spanish-only service from a duo of older women that inquiries were directed and doing my best to interpret gestures and descriptions the eventual order was boxed and wrapped with a great deal of attention, each item easily withstanding the subsequent three hour drive and a wait in the car during lunch, only the Brest suffering from any sog, though the whipped cream filling really did it no favors to begin with.
Faring far better with options including an American style donut, the same cream here not having as notable an effect on brioche as it did on choux, it was admittedly slightly disappointing the same exact filling was used within puff pastry layers of the Mille Feuille, but with a crisp shatter to fork as well as tooth any complaints were quickly set aside considering the quality of each bite, the large slab ringing in just shy of $2 US.
Happy to see some smaller options offered, both the butter croissant and two-bite chocolate version well-crafted though not quite on par with Galparsoro, the sampling ended with a sugar slicked roll flavored with fruit, and with a soft crumb something like coffee cake with a bit more moisture the flavor was indeed quite sweet, the jammy apricot center not dissimilar to the texture of pate de fruit.
Making way to Bordeaux by way of San Sebastian on a Sunday morning after a late night out and early morning in the gym a stop at the city’s most legendary bread maker seemed a perfect way to break up the drive and grab something wonderful to eat, and although the GPS at first attempted to lead me headlong into a pedestrian only car by car it was not long after attaining parking and navigating narrow streets that the smell of yeast, sugar, and slowly burning wood led me straight to the door, no less than three other panaderia and pastellaria eyeballed along the way.
Small and unassuming for a place supplying bread to many of the best kitchens in the city, the standing space not large enough for more than a handful when accounting for racks, glass cases, and cages full of goods, it was to Spanish only service that I was greeted and although interior photos were quickly nixed when the clerk blurted “no, no, no” waving a finger, it was clear the woman was annoyed by my presence as a total of eight items were quickly bagged and sealed with a twirl for €13.50, then taken seaside to eat.
Embracing a style of old-fashioned wood-fired baking that is rarely seen back home, every item slightly tinged in smoke without masking any of the subtlety of ancient starters and organic grains, tasting of Galparsoro’s goods began with a toothsome baton of oats and ground grains packed with dried fruit plus nuts and continuing a slightly savory trend with palmiers and croissants studded with sesame the quality of construction was absolutely textbook, the toasted seed’s flavor a basenote amidst the butter and yeast.
Finding the butter croissant a marvelous version with shattering arches surrounding wispy caverns of butter lightly kissed with salt, it was without an almond iteration that the famous bakery was found, but opting instead for a golden curl packed with ground walnuts the resultant croissant performed on a level as high as any in Spain or France, the bitterness offset by a dusting of powdered sugar while the center was completely sog-free.
Unable to resist a few sweeter selections, the turnover so hot that it actually warmed the rest of the bag, a parade of hits continued with the pocket of toasty pears that shattered and flaked while making quite the mess and although the brioche was a bit more dense than one might have hoped the chocolate snail continued the trend set by everything else that was laminated, the lacquer of sugar pushing the pastry itself quite sweet while chips of dark chocolate scaled the sugar back without making the springy center of the coil too rich.
Peanut Crusted Morcilla with Confit Tomato and Scorched Pepper
Brandade Stuffed Cod Ribs with Mushrooms and Black Sauce
Cod Fritters with Garlic Mayonnaise
Ham and Foie Gras Stuffed Eggplant Slices
Fried Mozzarella, Sardines, Tomato Tartar
Torta with Blistered Pepper
Leek Carpaccio with Jamon Iberico, Octopus, and Spanish Paprika
Chocolate Torta
Pastel Vasco
Getting a much later start than anticipated and thus limiting the first night’s pintxo crawl to only two stops it was with good fortune that Irrintzi Taberna was not only open later than Bar Gatz, but also that the place was packed, and trending far more modern in both décor as well as its cuisine the “new kid” proved more than capable of executing the classics while also offering more than a few of its own unique twists.
At least twice the size of Gatz in length but not width, a graffiti style backdrop and electronic dance sounds drawing a younger crowd than spaces nearby, entry to Irrintzi was at first a rather prolonged task as tables were packed while the bar stood two deep, but eventually gathering a plate and making a path it would not be long before the first four of twelve items were gathered, both croquettas setting a high standard for oilless crust breaking to a creamy center while the blood sausage was crumbly yet smooth beneath a peanut exteror, the fried cod again golden and moist though not quite as memorable as subsequent bites.
Onward to plate two, a trio selected immediately as they emerged hot from the kitchen at the back, it should seem obvious that pintxos served fresh almost universally outshine those sitting out, and whether an simple matter of timing, an indicator that ‘better’ items turn over faster, or a combination of both it was with glee that two preps of salt cod were tucked into, the ‘ribs’ a pure shot of umami while the fritters fared far better than the aioli topped iteration at Gatz, the crispy eggplant stack rich with the smack of duck liver and a delicate slice of scarlet red pork.
Opting for a final round of savories before ending with desserts, plates still emerging from the kitchen as the clock passed 00h30, it was at the recommendation of the barman that a briny sardine atop mozz with tomato was selected alongside two more, and although the complexity of the bite far outperformed the sum of its parts my personal preference was the beautiful stack of octopus, ham, and leeks topped liberally in paprika, the torta unfortunately a bit too dense with potatoes slightly undercooked.
Finishing off the evening with dessert, at this point with crowds finally beginning to thin, the first desserts of many of Spin proved a bit hit and miss for as good as later “cream cakes” called Pastel Vasco would prove to be the Irrintzi version was mostly just gelatinous and meek in flavor, the chocolate torta a far better investment with a moist texture not unlike that of Tres Leches spiked with tons of cocoa beneath a slightly bitter frosting, far less sweet than the ‘American” standard but delicious no less and a steal at €3 for a fairly substantial slice.
Fried Foie Gras Mushroom Sandwich with Pepper Puree
Iberico Sandwich
Fresh Cheese and Cepes
Baccala Stuffed Pepper
Located in old town, tucked away on Santa Maria Kalea just feet from a shopping district transformed to a Christmas wonderland just one week thereafter, Bar Gatz is considered by many to be ‘the’ locals only place for the Basque style of tapas known as pintxos, and arriving in Bilbao far later than originally scheduled it was just prior to midnight before I entered the small space, a dearth of seating okay for legs confined to a plane for the past twelve hours while English friendly service made navigating the selections a breeze.
Trending more traditional than spots nearby with a vibe that seemed well suited to local twenty-somethings out for late night fun a Saturday, it was with a plate in hand that a dozen or so plates were examined and understanding most of the Spanish descriptions with a few simple questions answered a total of eight items were selected, the total bill just €14 including a €1.50 miniature bottle of water.
Avoiding options that seemed to have been sitting out, though the barman did offer to rewarm anything I’d like, dining began with two plates of three and focusing mostly on bold flavors traditional to the region and especially those made in house both the Morcilla and Pepper Omelette as well as the creamy-meets-crunchy Fried Foie Gras Mushroom Sandwich were precisely what I’d been hoping for while the traditional torta immediately left me laughing at high prices of inferior versions back home, the salt cod unfortunately a bit masked by the sauce while both ham selections benefited from the quality of the local products, a theme seen throughout the trip.
Informed that desserts are not offered, but that a few more hot items were set to come out before the kitchen closed for the night, suffice it to say that I was fortunate to stick around chatting with a young couple happy to work on their limited English while teaching me some Spanish, for as much as those lesson really did not seem to last more than one hour the memories of fresh cheese melted amidst mushrooms and the intense flavor of a fried red pepper filled with creamy baccala proved far more resonant, the later possibly the most memorable bite of salt cod throughout the week-long visit.
Having watched Carbone open to gratuitous fanfare from more than a dozen writers and industry folks the New York import had knowingly comped, it was not until I was able to gather a group large enough to properly sample the pricey Aria restaurant that I hazard to make a reservation, the results of a nearly three-hour meal with six friends far less impressive than any of the ‘media’ will openly pronounce.
No doubt a splashy space, the original channeled for much of the lavish design and showy tableside service from Captains shining in red, Carbone is the brainchild of Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone and famous for high prices for traditional “red sauce” classics the Las Vegas iteration raises the stakes even higher than the Manhattan original, a $64 Veal Parm and $75 Lasagna a mere tip of the iceberg on a menu with prices not displayed out front.
Clearly trying to evoke an dining environment rare to be found in Las Vegas in the year 2015, entrance to Carbone begins at a podium of smiling young faces in front of a painting of Christopher Walken and with Rat Pack classics playing a bit too loudly overhead those with reservations are quickly whisked through an elegant lounge to one of three large rooms, the center featuring circular enclaves and several large tables with a central chandelier that speaks volumes about the restaurants intentions and unrepentant opulence.
Championing the slogan “every meal deserves a captain,” a concept is inherently flawed by tableside shows preventing him from appropriate steering the backstaff flow of traffic, it was nearly forty-five minutes holding enormous menus close like blankets that passed before orders were finally taken, and somehow avoiding to topple unused wine glasses while reaching for a complimentary selection of antipasti the first bites of the meal would actually prove to be some of the best and most interesting, the acid-splashed cauliflower simple yet refreshing while cured meat alongside three breads were all quite delicious, the saucy focaccia particularly quite addictive.
Breaking the menu down into four-courses, though presentations of five plates requiring a show saw things slightly more staggered, round one included nine baked clams in 3×3 preparation alongside two steaks of foie gras amidst onions plus sauteed peppers and although the former proved a bit unwieldy for sharing while the liver was unctuous and well portioned, all attention was drawn to the tableside preparation of ZZ’s Caesar’s, a $42 double-order highlighted by the buttery croutons and sardines that was otherwise quite standard.
Taking macaroni recommendations from a Public Relations executive and adding in personal preferences plus the anecdotal experience of others, course two featured four different pastas along with seven off-menu meatballs, only the $150 White Truffle Tagliatelle proving appropriately cooked al dente as thinner noodles bordered on ‘mushy,’ the meatballs no better or worse than would be expected for six dollars each…and certainly not enough to compensate for the uni-tinged Julian’s great flavor being marred by such a failure in execution.
Onward to entrees, the Chicken Scarpariello suggested by a local Italian restauanteur undoubtedly performing the best of any savory as spicy sausage provided a decadent nest for the juicy half-bird, those enticed by the famous fried Veal Chop will be happy to know that the $64 tab is mostly justified by both size and virtually perfect execution, the same not to be said of a $75 loaf of lasagna far too heavy handed with green peppers beneath a top that was actually too bitter to be enjoyable as a result of being burned.
Enjoying the company and conversation far more than the food as the clock inched toward ten it was finally with the dessert cart parked tableside that a concluding duo was selected and treated to fudgey Rainbow Cookies and complimentary Limoncello as we watched bananas flambeed tableside it was with good fortune that both the boozy fruit over ice cteam and curl of carrot cake succeeded where other plates had failed, each textbook in execution and large enough to share at comparative bargain of just fifteen dollars.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Admittedly early in its Las Vegas lifespan and no doubt a place that will drum up tourist dollars and praise from the press to whom prices and service are tilted to please, Carbone offers a unique dinning experience compared to anything else currently on The Strip, yet failing in several basics of execution from kitchen to captain it simply is not nearly as great as it currently seems to believe.
AVOID: Lasagna Verde, Easily overcooked pastas with thin noodles, missing the opportunity to order and ask questions when the Captain is present…unless you’re ready to wait.
TIP: Totaling $100/pp after tax and tip without the Truffle Pasta billed at $30 per gram (minimum of 5g,) those still curious enough to book a table are encouraged to gather a group since most portions are big enough to share and smaller portions cannot be accommodated even with advance notice.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Recently opened in North Las Vegas by a husband and wife team straight out of Ontario Canada, Salted Malted Bakery & Creamery is the sort of place that immediately spoke to the hockey loving Northwest Ohio days of my youth and with a menu running the gamut from locally cured peameal bacon and traditional poutine to dozens of cookies, bars, and fried-to-order donuts a visit on Saturday proved love at first sight…and taste after taste after taste.
Small in size and clearly built-out on a budget inside a stipmall adjacent the Walmart Supercenter across the lot, entrance to Salted Malted presents patrons with a warm atmosphere of whimsical Canadiana and as toys of the Molson Guys sit near condiments including pure Maple Syrup alongside Log Cabin the service, too, speaks of our neighbors to the North – easily some of the friendliest in town.
Far less limited in its breadth of options than in size of the short and narrow space, Salted Malted lives up to its name by offering items both sweet and savory and open daily at 7:30 with items made-as-needed to replenish supplies the possibilities for customization are seemingly endless, one twenty-something witnessed eating a Belgian Waffle topped with Thrifty Ice Cream, Strawberries, and Sprinkles while his mother noshed on a makeshift Cuban Sandwich on a Kaiser Roll with Mustard, Pickle, and Maple sweetened Bacon that more than once elicited a “this is soooo good.”
No short distance from home, a forty-five minute roundtrip from Summerlin, it was with a large order that an appraisal of the small shop’s goods would take place, and happy to answer questions despite a steady stream of traffic it was eventually in seventeen items that just under $21 was invested, the price almost too good to be true considering the craftsmanship, first bites of a clever premade “donut ball” proving a bit difficult with plastic utensils, but tasty and even better than the sum of its parts when allowed to warm up.
Delaying further dessert until a made-to-order sandwich and fresh cut fries beneath authentic pepper gravy and squeaky curds were presented to the table, it was on a more “American” biscuit that I opted to enjoy a Canadian Sunrise and far outperforming traditional four buck breakfasts the pile of peameal, cheddar, and overeasy egg was as good as anything recalled from anyplace in Toronto, including the stalls of the St. Lawrence Market while the poutine was a no frills classic, exactly like “La Classique” being served at Montreal’s La Banquise.
Obviously not leaving without a few more sweets, some consumed on site while others were taken for the road, suffice it to say that options trend far beyond the typical Chocolate Chip and Oatmeal Cookies, none of the fourteen selected anything less than delicious with both the golden raisin freckled Butter Tart and rich Nanaimo Bar reminiscent of trips across the border while the muffin-top-like carrot cake and peanut butter with banana Heartbreaker were fluffy rounds of baked goodness, the salt tinged Chipster an equally worthy investment as were the chewy brownie and cream cheese frosted Blue Velvet.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Flawed only in offering an inferior product like Thrifty, the ice creams simply not on par with many throughout town, Salted Malted Bakery & Creamery brings true Canadian heritage to North Las Vegas, a destination sort of spot for expatriots as well as snowbirds, but equally welcoming to those unfamiliar or those who simply love to see someone following their heart and doing what they love.
RECOMMENDED: Canadian Sunrise, Poutine, Carrot Cake Cookie, Butter Tart.
AVOID: As noted, the donut balls trend a bit hard fresh from the freezer, a made-to-order option perhaps a better bet for those willing to stick around watching the automatic donut machine at work.
TIP: Cookies and Bars vary day-to-day, those looking for specifics are encouraged to call in advance.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Having thought to have exhausted The Valley’s list of Doughnut shops over the past two years it was on the recommendation of a friend that Glazier’s Food Marketplace was identified as another source of novel fried dough, and recalling that Donut Mania’s owner had once suggested he originally helped establish the grocery store’s program it was just after 7:00am on Saturday that a stop was made, the cabinets well stocked with most options still warm.
Advertising a whole new lineup, including four types of fritters to go along with the store’s recently launched weekend brunch, it was admittedly with some surprise that Glazier’s collection tallied more than two-dozen variations and ranging from cake to yeast and filled to frosted the 89-to-99 cent prices are a far cry from many other artisan purveyors, the results ranging from downright excellent to subpar grocery store stuff.
Holding off a moment before exploring the donuts, a total of eleven selected largely as a result of space per cardboard box, one could not help but wonder how The 702s “Best” Supermarket would fare in terms of made-to-order options, and taking the easy way out by offering fake syrup and a cold pat of butter alongside pancakes so dry they literally crumbled fork pressure the answer can simply be summed up as “horrible,” an $8.57 waste of money with more than 3/4 deposited in the trash.
Onward to better things, payment at an automated checkout fairly simple before returning to a table to indulge, opening bites of raised options spoke to a brioche base similar to that of Donut Mania and Pinkbox with just a bit more tooth, the blueberry coconut a bit artificial in its flavor while cream-filled rings of coffee as well as chocolate fared far better, the espresso infused glaze particularly robust.
Unabashedly fond of fritters, a sentiment that many do not share, suffice it to say that those who cite oiliness as a reason for their displeasure need not fear as the ones at Glazier’s are actually much ‘lighter’ than the average, yet although an attempt to raise the stakes with multiple flavors is indeed appreciated the substantial lack of whole fruit beneath a double-shellacking of sugary sweet glaze most certainly was not, the pineapple particularly affronting in its lack of flavor with the vast majority of each left in the box.
Rounding out the morning with a cocoa-rich red velvet cake that made me wish for more classics including an old fashioned or buttermilk bar amidst the group, it was perhaps with good fortune that two bars and a tangy Key Lime Pie complete with graham cracker crumble were saved for last, the lemon filling beneath white frosting and rainbow sprinkles impressive in its tartness while the shredded coconut and cream amidst dark chocolate reminisced of a Mounds Bar in all the right ways, the sliced-and-filled presentation assuring a perfect ratio of each ingredient throughout.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: More modestly priced than other places offering novelty donuts, but at the same time not always executing on a level that shows the creativity to be matched by the quality of the staff, those planning to visit Glazier’s for Donuts are encouraged to choose carefully while those looking for pancakes or fritters should steer clear and visit almost anywhere else.
RECOMMENDED: Mounds Bar, Lemon Sprinkles Bar, Mocha Bean, Key Lime Pie.
AVOID: Pancakes and the $1.99 surcharge for what amounts to two sliced strawberries, Fritters.
TIP: Offering discounts by the dozen and baking only once a day, those looking for the freshest fried dough are encouraged to arrive early.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Latke with Sour Cream, Salmon Roe, Salt Cured Egg Yolk
Sashimi Course with Honey Sweetened Mushroom Infused Soy Sauce – Fluke, Octopus, Spanish Big Eye Tuna, Scottish Salmon, Kombu Cured Japanese Snapper
Sake Butter and Soy Grilled Japanese Whelk and Mexican White Shrimp
Panko Crusted Fried Oysters in Miso Hollandaise, Tempura Japanese Whiting with Organic Mushrooms and Mushroom Sauce
Japanese Sea Bream and Hokkaido Hairy Crab with Caribbean Style Johnny Cakes, Braised Collard Greens in Habanero Broth
Chocolate Pot du Crème, Vietnamese Coffee, Miso Honey, Coconut Ice Cream
Japanese Cheesecake with Berry Sauce
More than a bit impressed by Dan Krohmer’s Other Mama just a few weeks prior it was on the invitation of a friend from Los Angeles that a party of six sat down for a prix-fixe Omakase experience at 7pm on Friday night, and although the event’s organizer was late due to traffic on I-15 no other aspect of the evening was less than perfect – the space abuzz with energy and service never to lack.
Setting no guidelines for the kitchen, just a ‘cap’ of $60 each before tax, drinks, and tip, the meal was actually served in two sessions in order to ‘catch up’ late arrivals, an opening course of crisp potato pancakes topped with two types of egg and sour cream satisfying in both its savory taste and texture, the inspiration for the dish actually hatched just a day prior as part of an upcoming project with a friend.
Taking more pride than most in the quality of his fish, a long list of purveyors cited by a Chef who has clearly benefited from relationships made across the years, course two featured five pristine specimens and although both the silky tuna and cured snapper were amongst the most memorable bites of raw fish in recent memory it was, in fact, the housemade soy that really raised eyebrows, a near supersaturation of umami with just a touch of sweetness to offset the salt.
Continuing to up the ante in terms of ingredient novelty, course three followed a whole lot of smoke from the small kitchen’s grill and with buttery aromatics greeting the nose from a distance a first experience with whelks for some had both the novice and veteran singing the tender gastropod’s praises, no less the duo of shrimp that could have been an afterthought were it not for the snap of skin giving way to nearly raw flesh intense with natural sweetness and an almost creamy texture.
Progressing to the fried segment of the meal with another duo, in this case a traditional fry-up of panko-crusted oysters upgraded by housemade miso Hollandaise alongside meaty tempura whiting and mushrooms, the final savory of the night was without doubt the most high risk but also the most dynamic, each delicate bite of hairy crab as good as it gets while Sea Bream took a bath in spicy broth with braised collards and golden orbs of sweet bread to sop up every last bit.
Impressed again by the Miso Honey Ice Cream and finding the fluffy Cheesecake a bit sweeter and as such more appropriate for ‘dessert,’ the meal came to its end along with equally impressive scoops of Vietnamese Coffee and Coconut Ice Cream while the Chocolate Pot du Crème was an unexpected stunner, its creaminess on par with any in the city but the richness of the cocoa far more pronounced.
FIVE STARS: Overcoming limitations of location, lack of a Public Relations firm, and a city rare to embrace anything challenging the status-quo, Other Mama is quickly ascending to the level of an off-strip destination restaurant for locals “in the know,” and while some seem content to keep Krohmer’s little-restaurant-that-could all for themselves I cannot personally think of a more deserving place to send visitors looking for something a little different and certain to wow.
RECOMMENDED: Trust the Chef.
AVOID: Wasting money at less interesting “sushi restaurants” in the major casinos.
TIP: The restaurant does not officially offer an Omakase menu, but specials change daily to allow for substantial customization…and since Chef Krohmer is always around, it probably won’t hurt to ask if something more personal can be arranged from a seat at the counter.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
More than once noted for its green and red glow on Jones,in the plaza across from Chada Thai, Asian BBQ and Noodles, and more, it was shortly after work that I finally decided to stop in at 168 Market and although the aisles contain any number of ethnic items and unique “oddities” it was in the Supermarket’s food court that the majority of my time and $20 was invested, five hot items and six pastries all showing far more strongly than a passerby might expect.
Known as one of the most prominent providers of Chinatown’s roast duck, produce, and offal – all prominently displayed and far more affordable in some cases than even the large local chains – 168 Market is equally striking in the cleanliness of its layout and friendliness of the staff, though those wishing to take pictures are encouraged to focus only on the products as some of the staff voiced understandable concerns with photographs subsequently deleted.
Striking in the breadth of options, the hot bar alone with at least forty items to be mixed-and-matched for a meal, it was mostly on dim sum that my fresh-made order was centered, the Har Gow unfortunately marred by small shrimp without much flavor while the fried balls coated in crunchy sweetness fared far better, easily on par with those at Ping Pang Pong at a fraction of the cost despite the lack of Kewpie mayo.
Rare to forgo Congee, particularly a big Styrofoam cup for $2 that was chock-full of preserved egg and sliced pork, another great bite was found in the fried chicken and mushroom stew pockets with a toothsome mochi-like exterior, the same to be said of still-jiggly egg custard tarts.
Onward to baked goods, three ladies working the small station simultaneously baking, bagging, sorting, and replacing items on shelves, the selection at 168 Market runs the gamut from standards to novelties and a wide selection saw five successes and only one failure, the ‘meat’ filling of the Pork Sung bun essentially hardened into a dry mass with a texture best described as ‘hairy,’ and a flavor that was not only overwhelmed by spice up front, but sour and acrid on the finish.
Moving on to better things, those fancying Taro will be well advised to investigate either buns or cakes sweetened by the brilliant purple starch and yet as good both these were they still couldn’t stand up to the high quality of a remaining trio of red beans, blueberry jam, or rich butter – the latter harkening both pull-apart dinner roll and croissant in its texture with a lovely residual sweetness left to linger on the palate.
FOUR STARS: Far more friendly and cleanly than other spots in Chinatown, and as much fun to browse as it is to partake in the goods, 168 Market is a place anyone interested in Asian Specialty items would be behooved to check out.
RECOMMENDED: Japanese Butter Floral Roll, Egg Custard Tart, Congee, Fried Chicken Roll.
TIP: Those planning to frequent the market are encouraged to sign up for the Frequent Shoppers Card as substantial discounts are displayed prominently throughout the store.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Cuba Cafe Sampler – Beef Empanada, Ham and Beef Croquetas, Mariquitas and Beef Stuffed Papa Rellena
Sandwich Cubano – Roasted Pork, Ham, Swiss Cheese, Mustard and Pickles hot pressed on Cuban Bread
Tasting Plate – Ropa Vieja (Shredded Beef with Onions and Peppers,) Lechon Asado (Roasted Pork with Garlic, Olive Oil, Lime, Mojo,) and Pollo Tequila (Marinated Chicken in Fresh Herbs with Tequila Sauce and Chipotle) plus Maudros (Sweet Plantains) and Moros & Cristianos
Camarones Enchilados – Jumbo Shrimp in Housemade Tomato Sauce with Yellow Rice
Postre de la Casa – Flan / Tres Leches / Pineapple Special Sauce
Fresas de la Casa – Strawberry Flambe over Ice Cream
Experiencing “real” Cuban cuisine for the first time just under a year ago during a trip to South Florida, it was finally on Saturday night that I sat with a friend who’d never tasted a Cubano, let alone Ropa Vieja, inside Cuba Cafe on East Tropicana and tasting our way through fifteen items by way of appetizers, entrees, desserts, and samplers the results were a mixed bag of decent to excellent with a pricepoint congruent to the quality of the fare.
Larger in size than one might guess, the low ceilings, dim lighting, and live music with a rose at each table providing a romantic sort of feel, it was a bit too close to the crooners that we were first seated and despite being at only 1/3 capacity it was not until one of several dirty tables was bussed that a move was accommodated, a large order soon to follow with minimal delay from the kitchen as conversation ensued and beverage refills were repeatedly offered.
Starting off with buttered bread that wasn’t especially appealing or particularly “Cuban” in any way, it was not long before a duo of “appetizers” arrived to render the basket irrelevant, a sampler of four items including plantain chips highlighted by creamy croquetas while the empanada trended a bit greasy, a pressed Cuban Sandwich not quite as crispy as those found in Miami though the meat to cheese ratio and light application of mustard and pickle was on point.
Insisting that a Cuban friend said the Camarones Enchilados was good, though the resulting plate was little more than some previously frozen U16 shrimp cooked a bit too firm beneath a ladle of sauce not really distinctive from that at any checkered-tablecloth spot, a far better value was found in the tasting plate of Beef, Chicken, and Pork with smashed plantains and tender beans with rice – the Ropa robustly flavored by onions and peppers without being overwhelmed while the Lechon was a bit too fatty to be enjoyed in its entirety, the chicken trending a touch sweet but certainly not bad by any means.
Doing the heavy lifting on most of the food, it was still essential that dessert be ordered in order to evaluate the experience as a whole, and thankfully finding a willing partner to tackle the restaurant’s two “de la casa” signatures, the combination of flan and tres leches an excellent rendition of each with light notes of pineapple while a ‘flambe’ of strawberries was tasty enough, but also a bit disappointing as I’d half-expected a fiery tableside show.
THREE STARS: Competently executing some Cuban Classics while also offering several options for those not entirely interested in going all-in on such heavy Ethnic fare, Cuba Cafe fills a niche for those with a craving while also offering an introduction to any who are curious without breaking the bank or boarding a plane.
RECOMMENDED: Croquetas, Sandwich Cubano, Ropa Vieja, Postre de la Casa.
Chicken Marsala Meatballs with Roasted Wild Mushrooms
Pecorino Tartufo with Apricot Preserves
Lavash
Gorgonzola Dolce with Raw Pear Honey
ANTIPASTI PLATTER – Eggs Benedict Deviled Eggs, Mini Pizza Di Pasta, Brussels Sprouts Crostini
Mortadella Bianca Pizza
Baked Sausage & Eggplant Lasagna in Pink Sauce
Sardinian Gnocchi al Pomodoro
Italian Chicken & Waffles with Cacciatore Sauce, Polenta Waffle, Parmesan
Cappugiro – Lavazza Gran Riserva, whipped with ice and layered over warm milk and chocolate sauce
Limoncello Souffle with Buttermilk Gelato
Leaning Tower of Chocolate & Espresso
From the moment Giada De Laurentiis opened her well-branded doors at The Cromwell I knew the day would come when curiosity would finally get the best of me to step inside, but with friends overwhelmingly underwhelmed while Pete Wells basically shredded the place it was not until the opportunity for “Media Brunch” presented itself that I finally sat down at a table…to almost entirely predictable results.
No doubt a luxurious room, the posh banquets and enormous windows with a view of Bellagio some of the perks offered from a place whose prices speak to celebrity Chefdom and Strip-side surcharges more than perhaps any in town, rest assured that one will not forget they are dining at Giada during a single moment of their meal, the name of its proprietor found on everything from menus and napkins to the artwork…small cursive Gs outlining many service pieces, as well.
Humorously handed a card suggesting #hashtags and @handles to tweet with during the stay it was from the full brunch menu as well as a prix fixe tasting that invitees were left to decide from, the service exceedingly pleasant if not a little overbearing – though the special coffee menu did have to be requested while refills of the houseblend drip were infrequent to come around.
Inexplicably targeting every writer in town at once, a PR move I’ll never comprehend as a steady stream of positivity would seem far more beneficial than an obvious en masse lovefest, it was nonetheless in in three courses that our 130-minute stay would take place, some dishes far better than anticipated while a few were no better than those found Off-Strip for less than half the cost.
Beginning with a pastry basket offered as part of the prix-fixe, for our purposes self-selected but usually Chef’s choice, only the Monkey Bread was particularly memorable as both cornmeal-based options were far too dry, and moving on to appetizers suffice it to say that aside from stingy portions none of the Antipasti “platter” showed as well as it sounded, the better bites found in a la carte options including the moist chicken meatballs awash in spices and a duo of cheeses that were well aged and portioned to fit the double-digit pricetag, the accoutrements and crisp lavash also faring well.
Acknowledging the import status of their Artisan meats, but hardly ever to pass up Mortadella whenever it is found, it was an intermezzo “pizza” that would be far better described as a flatbread which seperated appetizers from entrees and with a pleasantly pliable crust and a good sapor to the meat the quality was just fine aside from the $15 tab, particularly compared to dreadful gnocchi that may as well have come from a box, the bowl going unfinished despite being no more than four spoonfuls of limp noodles laid in a watery and insipid sauce.
Turning next to entrees, a porcelain crock featuring layers of eggplant and noodles separated by spicy sausage undoubtedly a highlight of the meal, those interested in tasting Giada’s signature cacciatore without going all-in at dinner have their chance to sample alongside crispy polenta waffles – recommendations to combine sauce, bird, and syrup not worth the time or effort as separating the plate as two-halves is far more successful, though neither is likely to make anyone say “wow.”
Finishing up with dessert, the options scaled down from dinner and lacking in seemingly obvious bombolini for reasons unknown, the go-to dish is undoubtedly a pudding-soft citrus souffle served with buttermilk gelato while the leaning tower is no more than a Cold Stone quality ice cream cake, an “inverted cappuccino” entitled Cappugiro from the specialty coffee menu a far more intriguing proposition and the sort of thing for which I could almost justify a return visit, if only to sit at the bar sipping while enjoying the view.
TWO AND A HALF STARS: Told by some that Giada has improved since opening while others suggest they have locked in their core clientele and no longer need to try, I’m sure the truth lies somewhere in the middle, an experience worth having once if only to say “been there, done that” but not the sort of place warranting return visits for those who truly care about value or great food.
Short Rib Hash with Braised Short Ribs, Smashed Potatoes, Roasted Sweet Onions, Peppers
Croque Monsieur Panini with Niman Ranch Ham, Gruyere Cheese, Bechamel, Tender Greens
Oatmeal Cookie
Chocolate Chip Cookie
Gluten Free Chocolate Brownie
Apple Tart
Red Velvet Cupcake
Carrot Bar
Green Apple, Chocolate, Pumpkin Macaron
Owned and operated by Jaret Blinn, a California native whose long history in Las Vegas has gone overlooked by many due to his time in corporate kitchens including work with Bradley Manchester at Red Rock, Henderson’s new craftKITCHEN stands to raise the curtain on the skills of another Chef who gave up a steady paycheck in favor of something more personal, a breakfast and lunch space offering “Local. Inspired. Eats.”
Part passion project, but also a choice made to assure more flexibility for a man with a wife and kids, craftKITCHEN fills a strip mall spot reimagined from a previous restaurant and with clean lines plus a subtle natural vibe imparted by cooking quotes and plantlife the experience starts with warm welcomes at the door, a 7 o’clock arrival finding the youthful team still stocking shelves as light tunes from local radio chimed overhead.
Immediately attuned to no less than two-dozen pastries, each crafted by Jaret starting at 2am with baking extending late into the day, it was admittedly having e-mailed to discuss the concept as well as the possibility of a ‘small plates’ sort of tasting that my arrival was expected, and although the Chef admitted some fatigue following a late night Grand Opening with friends and family neither he nor his staff could have been more accommodating, a total of eight demi-portions sampled with rarely a miss in quality or execution.
Taking time to do things right, everything from produce to coffee sourced as locally as one can, those who love the later will be happy to know beans are sourced from Colorado River Roasters and with each cup brewed to order the fruit flavors are robust with a smooth finish, each sip good on its own though all thebetter when paired to breakfast pastries offered warmed-to-order, each of four sampled far less sweet than others in the area with the moist pumpkin muffin particularly impressive while the kouign amann was slightly softened as a result of housemade mixed berry filling.
Allowed to select the menu, but taking input from the team as to which items were best, plates were rolled out mostly in pairs from the kitchen and starting light with well-timed progression round one consisted of a well-composed salad featuring creamy burrata set against pomegranate with an alternative plate as delicious as it was different, the toothsome oats perfectly cooked beneath a crackling caramelized top with an optional mix-in of dried fruit and nuts.
Again showing the palate of a chef willing to present his sweeter side with nuance as opposed to a sledgehammer of sugar, it was in silver-dollar flapjacks tinged in cocoa that tastebuds were next entrusted and, although better than the majority, the omnipresent plate seemed a bit too ‘safe’ to be worth too much stomach space, particularly when compared to juicy fried chicken atop crisp waffles kicked up by pickled peppers, let alone a Shepherd’s Pie replacing lamb with spicy chorizo that you won’t find anywhere else in town.
Not entirely sold on avocado toast, but willing to trust the chef that the ingredient was put to equally good use on the pulled turkey benedict, those looking for something ‘different’ would be well served to check out the brined breast atop an English muffin with a sidecar of lemony hollandaise while a taste even more savory can be sought in the short rib hash with pan seared spuds, peppers, and onions.
Overestimating my hunger when presenting the meal’s final savory, a whole ham and cheese sandwich with creamy Bechamel pressed between slices of housemade panini bread, the somewhat atypical croque was nonetheless every bit as good as the sum of its ingredients and taking half home along with a box of baked goods it was approximately six hours later when the tasting continued, the oatmeal cookie with fruits similar to that of the bruleed version a particular standout as was the fluffy gluten-free brownie, apple tart, and carrot bar that ratcheted up the experience with tangy cream cheese frosting anchoring candy ‘leaves’ and buttery toffee shards.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: One-upping eat. in ingredient quality and out-thinking MTO Cafe in terms of creativity and menu design it would be difficult to name anyone outside of publicUS offering such a bounty of great products seven days a week throughout breakfast and lunch, the 25-minute drive from Summerlin notwithstanding there is no doubt craftKITCHEN is well worth a look for locals and tourists with a car alike.
RECOMMENDED: Pumpkin Muffin, Pear & Pomegranate & Burrata, Chicken and What?, Chorizo Shepherd’s Pie, Oatmeal Cookie, Carrot Bar.
AVOID: Salt Sensitive folks should probably think twice about the Short Rib Hash.
TIP: Pictures of plated items above represent 1/2 or 1/3 portions of all but the Oatmeal Brulee and Croque Monsieur, the full sized versions obviously plated differently for both the Chicken and What? as well as the Benny which were admittedly messy as offered. Open 7a-3p daily, baked goods warmed-to-order by convection oven for those arriving later in the day.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Cannoli Napoleon – Chocolate Chunk Ricotta Filling, Citrus-Olive Oil Sorbet
Cassata Cheesecake – Harry’s berries, Italian wedding cake croutons
Traditional Tiramisu – Cognac Crème, Lady Fingers
Happy to support any restaurant that continues to evolve, tweak, and reinvent even when it is already outperforming anything similar in the market, it took little more than seasonal menu updates to bring myself and six friends back to The Mirage’s Portofino and with Chef Michael LaPlaca continuing to amuse palates with a total of twenty plates, including four new pastas, no real descriptor can encompass just how great the evening was, the service better than ever even as Chris Zadie and team saw over 180 walk-ins without missing a step.
Again sat at a table overlooking the dining room floor, music and scenery unchanged from the past while a buzz hung in the air from a mostly-full house, it was to a family-style carte blanche experience that our meal was entrusted and passing on wine in favor of Iced Tea it was not more than fifteen minutes before the fun got started, a seasonal beet salad with beautiful candied pistachios juxtaposing creamy goat cheese joining several old-favorites, the meatballs deemed better than ever by some at the table while the soup managed the rare feat of beans being perfectly cooked while pasta was still springy yet tender.
Unabashedly promoting LaPlaca as the most innovative pasta maker in Las Vegas, a title earned across three prior meals where not one noodle or sauce failed to impress, November’s new menu saw some similarities but mostly different offerings and although the Agnolotti remains the sort of signature MGM should be touting on billboards it was once again the Gnocchi that stole away the spotlight, the Thanksgiving Feast on a plate every bit as ‘fun’ as it was delicious beneath dehydrated stuffing crumbles while “Pappardella alla Vodka” required no tableside show to induce a smile, just great sauce and huge langoustines with butter and booze kept grounded by sauteed spinach greens.
Already seeing some at the table scaling back on portions in order to enjoy more of that to come, secondi featured three classics joined by two more recent innovations and although the Osso Bucco remains the best in the city while the fried lobster tail is a luxury that anyone with the means should go out of their way for it would be equally difficult to pass up buttery scallops atop cauliflower puree with cubes of fried polenta, let alone the flash fried pork shank that is not exactly “Italian” but no less likely to wow atop a sweet and smoky bean ragu.
Currently in flux as relates to the pastry department, options unchanged from the past yet still just as good, it was perhaps good fortune that saw only a small smattering of sweets served after such an epic meal and with the Cassata Cheesecake as well as the Crème Brulee drawing oohs-and-ahhs from the uninitiated it seems to me that even the deconstructed cannoli tasted better this time around, the filling more creamy than memory serves and the citrus notes turned down.
FIVE STARS: Continuing to challenge themselves while still impressing tourists and locals alike the simple volume of glowing praise for Portofino should be proof enough of a restaurant worth a visit, each and every menu change likely to prompt my next.
Located in the increasingly busy Pawn Plaza, but still more of a ‘secret’ than the unnamed space owned by the same group at The Cosmopolitan, Inna Godda di Pizza occupies the downstairs corner pocket furthest from The Strip and featuring similar pies to those that have impressed both critics as well as the late night Marquee crowd ever since opening a visit to the month old space was every bit as good as the original, even an early morning oven malfunction not preventing a pair of freshly made pies from shining.
Not remotely a New Yorker, nor one to romanticize late nights slurping a soggy “99cent slice,” it was with the same standards and biases as always that I entered Inna Gadda di Pizza, and although Foghat played in place of expected Iron Butterfly while the owner explained that an overnight oven shutdown had delayed the day’s preparations it was with a little patience and conversation that minutes passed, each dough rolled out and hand stretched before careful topping, the $3 Red and $3.50 White by-the-slice options quickly sold to a steady stream of traffic, the vast majority visiting from out of town.
Proudly touting the use of ingredients that justify paying a few cents more per bite, suffice it to say that compared to “Secret Pizza” the prices trend a bit lower at the new location, and with a nice char imparted to the crust by “about ten minutes at five-fifty” both the bright and zingy red sauce beneath melted Mozz and garlic cream with dollops of ricotta plus house-smoked tomatoes were on par with the best in the genre, the fifty-cent toppings and absolute steal for a handful of marinated artichoke hearts while pepperoni was a touch oily and less well-spiced than expected.
Surprisingly offering three desserts, all made n house and ranging $2-$4 each, anyone filling cannoli to-order deserves support and taking the time to match crisp shells to sweet cheese tinged in citrus the two-bite pastries were delightfully light yet extremely flavorful, a spot less less praise offered for a small bowl of tiramisu that seemed a bit too soggy at its base despite generous coffee notes while the seemingly out-of-place Black & White was smaller than most, yet moist and fluffy enough that you may want two.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: About as good as it gets for a “slice shop” particularly on Las Vegas Boulevard for less than $4, Inna Gadda di Pizza is only likely to get better with time and seasoning of the ovens, a few small tweaks potentially capable of making this the first “must-visit” spot at Pawn Plaza for locals as well as tourists.
RECOMMENDED: White Slice with Artichokes, Black and White Cookie.
AVOID: Pepperoni, the bottom layer of the tiramisu.
TIP: Free Parking is Available at Pawn Plaza, and those looking for whole pies or made to order calzone are advised to call in advance.
Rare to use my blog as a soapbox, instead happy to report things as I see them without the PR “spin,” those in-the-know are no doubt aware that many ‘foodies’ around the globe look down on Las Vegas as a land of overpriced knockoffs and absentee celebrity chef landlords, a fact that cannot be denied but at the same time one which occasionally overlooks a hidden-in-plain-sight gem.
Assuredly one of the most well regarded restaurants in Las Vegas, Le Cirque’s 16+ year run at The Bellagio seeing hundreds of less fortunate establishments shutter both on and off The Strip, it was for the fourth time this year that I sat down within the intimate 17-table space on Saturday evening in celebration of two-full-years a Nevada resident, the newly launched Fall menu solidifying my opinion that Wilfried Bergerhausen is the city’s most creative young talent, and high upon a small list to which this post will act as a local call-to-arms.
Once a Michelin Star holder and consistently awarded the AAA Five-Diamond award from year-to-year as Ivo Angelov exemplifies the role of GM in assuring every aspect of the experience is beyond reproach, it seems absurd that one of the few spinoffs in the city that has far surpassed the original has gone unrecognized by The James Beard Foundation aside from an honorable mention for wine, but with the 28 year old Bergerhausen already logging fourteen years of professional experience what better place to begin than with a nomination for Rising Star Chef of The Year?
Not purporting an expertise on every single twenty-something man or woman running a kitchen across The United States, the few that come to mind are certainly not subject to the intensity of preparing no less than two-dozen different plates for palates ranging from tourists on a pre-theater budget to high-rollers opining for a 3-hour degustation, not to mention desserts and canapes, for six-nights of each and every week.
Easily capable of executing Le Cirque classics like the Lobster Salad, Rabbit Symphony, and any number of souffles, recent visits show signs of a young man equally gifted with protein as he is with produce and with a fondness for acid and mushrooms belying a childhood in France even moreso than his accent one merely need clothes their eyes and point to choose a plate as beautiful as it is delicious, the preparation of each ingredient and their subsequent plating showing a great respect for tradition and an artistry well beyond his years.
Citing family as an influence while his passion and skill are obvious from the moment he begins to speak, Wilfried describes his greatest attribute as curiosity, something those who have not been are encouraged to satisfy by taking a seat and something those who have can reward by signing up here and entering his name.
***Rising Star Chef of the Year (Presented by S.Pellegrino® Sparkling Natural Spring Water) – A chef age 30 or younger who displays an impressive talent and who is likely to make a significant impact on the industry in years to come.
Receiving word a few weeks prior that Pastry Chef Vivian Chang would be leaving Yardbird at the beginning of November, a job at Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist offering the young woman a chance to spread her wings and develop skills under the guidance of a living legend, it was without hesitation that I booked a chance to visit her at The Venetian one last time for sweets and seated with five friends after lunch at Flock & Fowl the results were as good as ever, only three new items sampled but all as good as the realm of rustic-upscale dessert gets.
Having now visited Yardbird ten times since the start of the year, once since Todd Harrington handed the reins to Melvin Johnson at the helm, it is obvious to anyone who knows me that my affection for the Miami import has been cemented by the work of Chef Chang even more than the savory side of the staff and beginning with biscuits, of which I ate three, before progressing into crisp waffles both remain reference standard both locally and across the nation, the former more fluffy than Sunrise with more butter than Loveless while separating layers outdo many laminated pastries around the globe.
Upgrading the longstanding Miami Maple Bacon Donut during her one-year tenure and continuing to innovate until the end of her term, this meal saw Vivian unleash a Sweet Potato Pie that may as well have been made of silk given the smoothness of the puree and again seeing the innovative Strawberry Shortcake, S’mores Brownie, and beautiful Hummingbird her comprehensive reinterpretation of Southern classics was once again worthy of being witnessed, each bite as compelling as the last.
Again impressed by the Banana Split and equally set smiling by a Sundae that somehow saw dill accent lemon and blueberries in a most pleasant and unexpected way, suffice it to say that over the course of a year none of Chef Chang’s in-house Pacojet crafted ice creams was less than a resounding success, a compliment paid equally to Rice Crispy coated Oreos that solve the conundrum of how to prevent the center from becoming a soggy mess.
Rounding out the meal with a slice of cheesecake that saw Raspberries and Chocolate forms meld harmoniously amidst a creamy, tangy base it was no mistake that a few bites of the Chess Pie were set aside as a final taste, still the best version of the dish to date and one I don’t expect to be soon replaced.
FIVE STARS: To date not replacing Vivian, whose first day at Twist is November 3rd, the Chef claims nothing will change in her departure as the team has been trained well, and yet as much as I want to believe those words I still can’t help but be a little bit disappointed as the ‘skinny pastry chef’ signage above the kitchen tells us ‘not to trust’ has left some sizable shoes to fill.
RECOMMENDED: Close your eyes and point…then add on the Chess Pie, an order of Biscuits, nd a Hummingbird Cake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Not all Desserts are typically offered during Brunch Service while the Chess Pie is unfortunately only offered from 10a-4p Friday through Sunday at this time.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
Hainan Chicken Rice – Poached Chicken, Rice, House Sauces with added Chinese Sausage
Fried Tenders and Rice with House Sauces
Chicken Wings – Mrs Han’s Twice Cooked Szechuan
Chicken Wings – Thai Style with Fish Sauce, Garlic, and Lemon
Cornish Game Hen with Kale, Tomato, Cucumber, Grape, Cranberry, Sunflower Seeds, Almonds, and Sesame Vinaigrette Salad
Bao-Chicka-Bao Bao with Kale Slaw
Achieving unlikely success in the middle of Eureka Casino with his Great Bow-turned-Brick+Mortar Fat Choy, Sheridan Su has seemingly found success where so many others have failed largely by keeping head down, eyes up, while focusing on quality of the product, and narrowing his focus even further at recently opened Flock & Fowl the young Chef finds has proven the rare double threat with a “do one thing and do it well” space that gets it right.
Historically an adapted dish of early Chinese decedents from the Hainan Province, but offered throughout Asia and a few famous shops speckled around the United States, Su and his wife Jenny officially started obsessing over the dish following a visit to Taiwan and although a recipe of poached chicken and rice cooked in chicken fat may seem ‘simple,’ its perfection lies in the details – all of which the duo seems to have dialed in.
No more fanciful in location than Fat Choy. the renovated space on Sahara next to a pawn shop and within view of the Strip Clubs on Industrial Road in the shadow of The Strip, Flock & Fowl seems as intentionally limited in its seating as it is in its menu and with Sheridan in the Kitchen as Jenny works the room orders are placed at the counter with service fast to follow, a “one of each” order seeing our table of six served in three successive rounds.
Starting with Sheridan’s longtime signature buns, in this case graced with crispy buttermilk soaked bird from Mary’s Free Range with a bit of kale slaw and sauce, it almost seems silly that anyone could be excited about the pending opening of Chick-fil-A with such a thing available, each bite first met by pillowy bao before giving way to bittersweet flavors juxtaposing juicy, well-seasoned meat.
Rare to be wowed by wings, though always open to a change of heart, round two saw Sheridan send out a couple extra bites of each flavor to that the whole table could enjoy, and with two flavors available the only real question is which of them to order, the Szechuan expectedly the ‘hotter,’ though certainly not ridiculous, while the fish-sauce tossed Thai style rivaled those at Pok-Pok for flavor, if not for size.
Served all three entrees at once, easily enough to feed six adults when paired with that which had already come, suffice it to say that the Chicken tenders were perfectly fine if not particularly ‘wowing’ compared to the rest, yet when paired to the housemade chile sauce or chunky bits of garlic the three-piece order was an absolute steal for just $9, the crispy cornish hen another veritable steal alongside a complex and elegant salad for just a dollar more.
Speaking last to the dish Su set out to perfect it should first be said that many at the table had never sought out a truly authentic version until this date, but whether a virgin or a veteran none at the table seemed to be disappointed in the silky broiled breast or the fluffy white rice, a $2 addition of spicy Chinese sausage every bit worth the surcharge while the bonus broth was chock-a-block full of flavor without being pumped up with salt or MSG.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Flawed only in the inherent limitations of space, an outsourced single dessert, and menu – the later to be remedied by specials from time-to-time – Flock & Fowl has thus far shown that perhaps Las Vegas is ready to embrace such a focused concept – the early word almost universally favorable, but a fate that only time and the fickleness of local ‘media’ will tell.
Soft Serve Samples – Southern Butter Pecan. Butter Cup, Peanut Butter, California Tart, Triple Chocolate, Sea Sal Caramel, Island Candy Bar, Birthday Cake, German Chocolate Cake, White Chocolate Mousse, Cookies & Cream, Moose Tracks
Vanilla “Red Velvet” Pancakes with Mascarpone, Blueberries, Strawberries, Whipped Cream, 100% Pure Canadian Maple Syrup
Pecan & Cranberry French Toast with 100% Pure Canadian Maple Syrup
Located just off the gaming floor at Harrah’s and occupying a sizable footprint beneath Ice Pan with the Buffet not too far away The Fulton Street Food Hall at first looks like any other Casino Food Court, yet a closer look indicates something a bit more thoughtful, a 24/7 spot that morphs throughout the day with options abound.
Using a well stocked gaming bar as one anchor while fanciful pastries glow behind glass at a coffee bar near the other end towards escalators to the garage the Food Hall cannot be fully appreciated in a single visit, but over the course of twelve-hours the full breadth of the spread offers everything from Noodle Soups and Sushi to Breakfast Plates and Pizza, the Soft-serve station another popular option while Salads, Sandwiches, and “Comfort Foods” each offer options for diners on the go.
Admittedly only taking looks at 3 of 8 stations, my predilection to sweets obvious in the ordering, a stop by the pastry counter may prove daunting to the uninitiated, but taking into account that all items are made “once or twice” daily according to servers the best bet is either arriving early morning or choosing items with less time sensitivity, the miniature donuts far too dry when sampled late evening Friday while a Frisbee-sized Jumbo the morning after was pillowy soft, sweet, and the slightest bit yeasty, albeit expensive at $7.
Not particularly taken by the cookies, all three more sugary than necessary which led to the flavors trending mostly ‘same-same,’ both the dense chocolate Ding-Dong knockoff and rich peanut butter brownie were a step in the right direction, the latter almost too rich for one person though an accompanying cup of coffee will certainly aid the cause.
Expecting it a mistake even before ordering the $5 Almond Croissant it took only two bites to confirm the combination of poor proofing and sticky Frangipane as a disaster and casting the rest into the nearest receptacle before sitting down to proper breakfast it was with good fortune that not a bite more stomach space had been wasted since both the Chef’s Special Pancakes and Fruit and Nut studded French Toast were amongst the Strip’s more impressive examples, each offered the benefit of completely unanticipated pure Maple Syrup.
Brought up on Soft-serve, but generally not going out of my way for the stuff, it was mostly the uniqueness of flavors that led me to order a $6 cup late in the evening and although samples of flavors including Island Candy Bar, Birthday Cake, and Moose Tracks were all quite pleasant the blend of Southern Pecan and Peanut Butter Cup entitled Butter Cup was absolutely exquisite, a flavor something like salted French Butter that mixed well with banana chips and crunchy housemade honey granola.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: A touch more spendy than it should be, but trying far harder than need be, Fulton Street Food Hall goes to show that the Casinos are at least thinking about the quality of their food as part of the overall ‘experience in 2015, a trend that both tourists and locals can only hope will continue to grow.
RECOMMENDED: Pecan and Cranberry French Toast, Peanut Butter Brownie, Butter Cup Soft Serve
AVOID: Almond Croissant, Cookies.
TIP: Breakfast Runs 7a-11a with transition to the Noodle Bar thereafter. Bring your Total Rewards Card for a few bucks off on various items.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
