Endo Edibles

October 30, 2015
6:31 PM
by: Uhockey

Border Grill at Forum Shops [2,] Las Vegas NV

Border Grill at The Forum Shops

Pineapple Vanilla Margarita – Pineapple Vanilla Infused Tequila Blanco, Fresh Lime, Organic Agave Nectar

(Not Photographed) Cucumber Cooler – Cucumber Infused Seagram’s Vodka, Fresh Mint & Lime, Hand Muddled

Super Fruit Margarita – Blackberry Infused Partida Blanco, Veev Acai Spirit, Fresh Lime & Blueberries, Agave Nectar / Blood Orange Jalapeno Margarita – Olmeca Altos Plata, Blood Orange, Agave Nectar, Fresh Jalapeno & Lime, Mole Rim

Chips and Salsa

Border Guacamole – Haas Avocado, Jalapeno, Lime

Ceviche Trio:

Baja Ceviche – Mexican White Shrimp, Tomato, Jalapeno Aioli, Corn Tostada

Peruvian Ceviche – Mahi Mahi, Lime, Ginger, Aji Amarillo, Plantain Chip

Caribbean Carpaccio – Sustainable Albacore, Hawaiian Ono, Coconut Chili Broth, Celery Leaf, Shaved Red Onion, Shoestring Yams

Pumpkin Ceviche – Candied Baby Pumpkin, Hawaiian Ono, Aji Amarillo Sauce, Fresno Chiles, Avocado, Pomegranate Arils

Pork Mole Verde – Slow Roasted Pork in Green Mole Sauce, Refried Pinto Beans, Red Rice, Vegetable Escabeche, Chicharron, Hoja Santa Tortillas

Seafood Enchiladas – Tiger Shrimp, Crab Meat, Achiote Cream Sauce, Oaxacan Cheese, Watermelon Radish Salad, Crema

Beef Brisket Flautas – BBQ Cabbage Slaw, Smoked Chile Salsa, Citrus Crema, Cotija

Roasted Beets – Carrot Puree, Queso Blanco, Beet Greens

Double Espresso on Ice

Flan Duo – Coconut, Roasted Yam, Caramel Sauce

Arroz Y Platano – Rice Pudding, Banana Crema, Spicy Pecan Tuile

Having last visited Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger’s second Las Vegas outpost of Border Grill on New Years Day for brunch, it was not until General Manager Jennifer Holley tweeted a picture of festive holiday pumpkin that I recalled an invite to stop by for some ceviche – a special “Day of The Dead” menu launching on the anniversary of my second year in Nevada an added bonus as I sat with a friend and her son on the “patio” for a celebratory multi-course meal.

Conveniently situated at the base of spiral escalators on the ground floor of Caesars’ Forum Shops with the Too Hot Tamales signature style offering a backdrop to upscale Latin favorites crafted from largely local, sustainable, and organic products, it was moments after 6:00pm that menus were confiscated, Jennifer taking the reins and steering us through eleven plates, four cocktails, three types of salsa, and a few too many warm tortilla chips.

Tasting a refreshing Cucumber Cooler before sipping the sweet Pineapple Margarita far more quickly than usual for someone who usually nurses his drinks, it was with smooth Haas Avocados pureed with a bit of heat that the meal got started and having been promised ceviche Mrs. Holley delivered precisely that just a few moments later, all four items crafted at the specially designed bar absolutely outstanding in terms of taste and texture, the candied pumpkin with cinnamon notes offering the best bites from my standpoint as sweetened plantain chips acted as spoons with heat turned up by Aji Amarillo.

Minding the youngster with chicken fingers, though he more than happily tasted from the special duet of Enchiladas and Pork as well, suffice it to say that anyone with a sense of ingredient quality is bound to appreciate the obvious time and skill involved in crafting such a deep and aromatic mole, the green “sacred leaf” tortillas another well thought piece to the puzzle with a slightly sweet finish helping to lighten the heft of the meat with a bit of crunch added by crispy chicharrones.

Thrilled by two more Margaritas, the Acai infused iteration a bit more my style than the smoke and spice infused Blood Orange, another round of savories featured two items off the regular dinner menu and although the flautas were essentially traditional Mexican fare benefited by superior ingredients the warm beet salad was a spotlight-stealing sort of side dish with great texture provided by creamy fresh queso while the natural sweetness of carrots provided a deft foil to bitter beet greens.

Generally unimpressed by most flan, though happy to have my mind changed, it was with a Día de Muerto duo that desserts got started and although both the creamy coconut and textured sweet potato rounds were better than most they simply could not compete with what I still consider to be the best Rice Pudding on this side of the Atlantic.

FOUR STARS: Admittedly trending more European in my tastes than Latin (or Asian for that matter) Border Grill disproves those who seem to believe that “Ethnic Food” shouldn’t be ‘upscale,’ and with superior ingredients generally yielding a superior product the experience is further benefited by top notch service with both the food and beverage offering enough variety for virtually all palates to be pleased.

RECOMMENDED: Ceviche, Rice Pudding, Beets.

AVOID: Admittedly a limited time item, the Achiote Cream Sauce unfortunately overwhelmed the subtlety of the delicate seafood within the Enchiladas a bit moreso than would be ideal.

TIP: Offering a completely different menu than the location at Mandalay Bay those interested are encouraged to check online, or just stop in at the All-You-Can-Eat table service brunch where several small plates are offered…in addition to the rice pudding.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.bordergrill.com/locations/las-vegas/bglvfs/

Posted in Border Grill, Border Grill at Forum Shops, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Tasting Menu

October 25, 2015
6:18 PM
by: Uhockey

Table 10 “Essential Emeril” Dinner, Las Vegas NV

Table 10 “Essential Emeril” Dinner

Sweet Roll with Salted Butter

Praline Candied Bacon

Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Toasted Pumpkin Seeds

New Orleans BBQ Shrimp

Vietnamese Pork and Shrimp Spring Rolls

Bahamian-style Redfish Ceviche

Salt Roasted Beet Salad with Pistachio Butter and Cypress Grove Goat Cheese

Slow Roasted Wild Salmon with Roasted Creamy Cauliflower

Barolo Braised Short Rib with Mascarpone Polenta, Baby Carrots and
Shaved Black Truffle

Chocolate Sheba Cake with White Chocolate Anglaise

Graciously invited by One7 Media to meet one of the very few Celebrity Chefs I hold near and dear to my heart it was on a rare Sunday night out that I joined three friends for some true “Event Dining,” the launch of ‘Essential Emeril’ coinciding with the introduction of new Table 10 Chef du cuisine James Richards during an intimate 60ish person private dinner on The Palazzzo’s second floor.

Greeted by several members of the Lagasse’s Las Vegas team, Corporate Executive Chef Sean Roe telling us of the newly innovated Snack Bar just moments after we arrived, it was with Champagne or Punch that the evening began and with several of the Chef’s classics featured as butler-served hors d’oeuvres whetting the palatr, a meet-and-greet with Emeril himself transitioned all to the dining room where things got kicked up a notch.

Describing his new book as “the closest thing I’ll ever do to an autobiography” while presenting each dish with anecdotes showing both humility and his own grinning gusto, it was with greeting from several friendly faces from Delmonico, The New Orleans Fish House, and even Lagasse’s Stadium that the meal marched forth and reflecting on his earliest years the Roasted Beet Salad was cool, creamy, and aromatic – a heartiness in tune with cooler weather, and a sign of flavors to come.

Telling a tale of Charlie Trotter, the man to whom he dedicated the book, before presenting slow roasted salmon that transcended typical through controlled cooking temperatures that yielded a perfectly flaky filet it must be noted that, although rare to imbibe, each wine was on par to the plate with which it was paired, a 2013 Merlot blend from Ornellaia showing a good deal of oak and acidity to compliment truffled shortribs braised fork-tender in Barolo.

Mopping up the rest of the beef’s juices and any remaining polenta with a buttery sweet roll it was with a lone dessert that the two-hour meal concluded, and citing an unlikely reference in French legend Pierre Gagnaire the Chocolate Sheba Cake walked a fine line between ganache and mousse-like with shaved nuts adding just a touch of texture alongside creamy pool of Anglaise.

Thanked repeatedly by Chefs and Staff for our attendance, the gratitude flowing equally from our side of the plate, it was with a signed copy of the new book that each of us departed after again shaking hands with a true legend, a return visit to check out Chef Richards’ menu update already being planned.

http://www.emerilsrestaurants.com/table-10

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Emeril's, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Table 10, Table 10 "Essential Emeril" Dinner, Tasting Menu, Truffle

October 24, 2015
8:35 PM
by: Uhockey

Rivea, Las Vegas NV

Rivea

Grissini with Tapenade

Marinated Seabream, Citrus

Focaccia di Recco

Baguette, Semolina Loaf, Olive Focaccia with Olive Oil

Sage/Parmesan Cheese Potato Gnocchi

John Dory baked like on the Riviera

Creamy Polenta

Roasted Duck Breast, Turnips, Bigarade Sauce

Limoncello Baba

Cappucino Cup with Chocolate Brioche

Our Traditional Zuccotto

Shortbread Nutella Sandwiches

Rarely worried about rebranding, or even ripping a concept apart in order to completely reinvent a space, it was 7:30 Saturday night when I ascended the Delano’s glass elevator to meet another local physician for dinner at Rivea, the recently opened Alain Ducasse still bearing some semblance to the former Michelin-starred MiX while the connected Skyfall Lounge is far more welcoming than it once was, though still quite underpopulated despite the dramatic views.

Imported from Saint-Tropez and London, Rivea arrives in Las Vegas as a swanky small-plates concept not dissimilar to Bellagio’s offensively priced Lago and although the offerings here trend somewhat more French than Italian the menu feels a bit precious, the appetizers mostly trumping $10 for less than two mouthfuls while more substantial mains hover around forty dollars each.

Still dripping bubbles of glass from its center, but now turned breezy with seaside blues befitting the Mediterranean cuisine crafted by Chef Bruno Riou, it was at tiny window-side two-top that the two of us were sat despite a dining room less than 10% full and although service was a bit overbearing at first it did not take long before the jeans-and-suspenders with Chuck Taylor’s-clad staff adapted to answer questions without overselling, though a few fumbles such as empty glasses and misdelivered plates did subsequently occur.

Still a stunning space with high ceilings helping to dissipate noise while 180-degree views of the city remain unparalleled for a fine-dining establishment on the Strip, it was in conversation about restaurants moreso than business that time was passed and with two rounds of bread service each proving well crafted while the anchovy infused tapenade was boldly briny and addictive it was not long before a duo of appetizers arrived, the $14 crudo a bit spendy for such a tiny portion, no matter how “fresh,” while the creamy cheese and cracker flatbread was a total disappointment when compared to versions at Chicago’s Davanti Enoteca or Mario Batali’s chi SPACCA.

Citing influences from “the food markets of Provence and Italy,” but trending more Central France with a delicious duck whose skin met toasted meringue to double down on crispiness while sweetness played off turnips and a savory brown sauce, those looking for lighter flavors would be well advised to order the $42 John Dory whose flesh comes across delicate yet moist and buttery, a sizable side of polenta smooth and creamy while the potato gnocchi are almost buoyant in their aromatic levity.

Outed somewhere along the way from appetizers to entrees as two people more than a little familiar with Las Vegas’ dining scene, it was only after our server informed us that the signature Zuccotto could not be prepared in a smaller portion that the large cake-for-four nonetheless arrived tableside compliments of the Chef and having additionally ordered both the Limoncello-soaked Baba and the espresso-infused panna-cotta atop granita the only real question was order of indulgence, for my money the citrusy take on a Ducasse Classic almost as good as the Monte Carlo original while the slowly melting brandy semifreddo certainly warranted gathering a group to enjoy it with.

THREE STARS: Open for only a few weeks and still lacking for both patrons and a cost proportionate to the portions or quality of preparation of several plates it will be interesting to see how Las Vegas responds to yet another rebranded celebrity chef import, particularly in a largely unadvertised space that previously shuttered despite a similar name above the door and some of the most excellent views on The Strip.

RECOMMENDED: Entrees including the Duck and John Dory are far more fulfilling and creative than the overpriced small plates while both the Baba and Zuccatto show signs of a pastry kitchen that remains strong.

AVOID: Both the seabream and flimsy foccaccia could have easily been taken in one mouthful by scooping the former with a spoon and folding the second. The brioche served alongside the cappucino cup was also woeful, the chocolate a single solidified piece the size of a stick of gum.

TIP: Although attached, Rivea’s hostess stand is best accessed from The Delano lobby elevators while Skyfall is better experienced by the all-glass 64 story ascent near the Michael Jackson theater at Mandalay Bay.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://delanolasvegas.com/dining/rivea.aspx#

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Rivea

October 24, 2015
4:22 PM
by: Uhockey

Fish N Bowl, Las Vegas NV

Fish N Bowl

Green Tea

Seaweed Salad with Yuzu Juice and Sesame Oil

J-Curry Edamame – Japanese Curry, Salt, and Butter

Spoon Trio – Uni with Lime Juice, Smoked Sea Salt, Grated Wasabi / Oyster Spoon with Ponzu, Wasabi Relish, Red Tobiko / Bay Scallop Lime Juice, XO Sauce, Grated Ginger

Spicy Bacon Tempura – Fried Bacon with Maple Soy Reduction

Salmon Kama – Grilled Salmon Collar with Garlic Lemon Sauce

Hamachi Kama – Grilled Yellowtail Collar

Poke Tacos on Crispy Wonton Skins – Tuna with Masago, Red Onion, Green Onion, Pomegranate Molasses, Micro Cilantro / Yellowtail with Sweet Wasabi Mayo, Red Onion, Green Onion, Black Tobiko / Ono with Jalapeno, Red Onion, Tomato, Sweet Mini Chili, Lime Juice, Chipotle Mayo, Micro Cilantro

Agedashi Tofu – Lightly Fried Tofu in Fish Broth

Soft Shell Crab Cake – Sweet Chili Pepper, Jalapeno, Chipotle Mayo

Nigiri – Ume Fluke with Orange Juice and Japanese Pickles, Ahi Tuna with Yuzu and Garlic, Half Moon Salmon with Avocado and Lemon, Miso Yuzu Yellowtail, Hokkaido Scallop with Lime Juice and Green Tea Sea Salt

Warm Springs Roll – Soft Shell Crab, Spicy Tuna, Spicy Crab, Shrimp Tempura, Avocado in Rice Paper with Eel Sauce, Spicy Yam, Sriracha

Mr Monkey Roll – Fried Banana, Spicy Crab, Spicy Tuna with Pomegranate Molasses, Wasabi Mayo

Unagi Bowl with Shredded Egg, Brown Rice, Eel Sauce

Miso Soup

Blueberry Angelfood Cake with Whipped Cream, Chocolates Ganache, Matcha Marshmallow, Caramel Sauce

Cheesecake Tempura with Caramel Sauce and Chocolate

Born in Iowa, raised in Korea, and slicing up fish in Southwest Las Vegas, Howard Choi’s is most certainly is not the most typical of Chef’s stories, but garnering praise from locals and critics alike it was with modestly high expectations that a party of four sat on uncomfortable benches inside of Fish N Bowl on Saturday evening, the two-hour omakase experience showing a great diversity of tastes and textures with most of them quite good.

At first hesitant to serve ‘chef’s choice,’ the small restaurant on South Durango doing the majority of its business at lunch, happy hour, and with orders a la carte it was entirely from creations on the laminated flippable menu that fifteen course was crafted, a selection of water and teas added to a tally of just over $300 all-in for the table.

Bringing in fresh fish “almost every day but Sunday” from a variety of sources, including the ones that provide products to more pricey locations on The Strip, the Fish N Bowl experience crafted by Choi began with shredded seaweed glistening with sesame oil followed by edamame so tender that pods did not need to be discarded, the curry playing well of the acid from the salad while preparing the palate for bold flavors to come.

Doing an excellent job of presenting a broad view of appetizers by offering three individual ‘spoons,’ each typically offered as a trio, even those averse to oysters would be well advised to reassess with FNB’s version lightened by ponzu, heat, plus tobiko and although both the scallop and urchin were also well accompanied the first true ‘wow’ of the evening was provided by crispy breaded bacon fully awash with spices, the maple-infused soy sauce doing an admirable job of reining them all in.

Unfortunately hitting a speed bump with Salmon cooked a bit too long it was with a more appropriately grilled piece of Yellowtail that the kitchen quickly regained its footing, another raw followup served straight across the counter from Chef Choi’s hands perhaps the best six mouthfuls of the evening with each two-bite ‘taco’ out-‘Nobuing’ Matsuhisa, the Ono said by one to be the best tasted outside the Hawaiian Islands.

Receiving lightly fried tofu in fish broth at the request of one diner, the flavor and texture far more appealing than the makeshift crabcake that tasted almost entirely of peppers that followed, it was a plate of five slices of fish atop rice that arrived subsequently, the fluke a touch overwhelmed by citrus while both scallop and ahi were undeniably excellent, the former particularly vibrant beneath both grated and crispy garlic.

Not generally one to order rolls, but happy to let Choi try to change my mind, suffice it to say that although texturally compelling the Warm Springs Roll got a little lost in all the spices while the clever Mr. Monkey was a fun little bite to recalibrate the palate, savory courses ending in a bowl of brown rice topped with tender eel in its sauce and shavings of egg omelet.

Washing it all down with smooth miso as hot green tea better than that at Mizumi was on it’s way, desserts consisted of a cloud-like concoction from nearby Suzuya alongside the restaurant’s very own tempura fried cheesecake, the former forgettable albeit tasty while the latter was absolutely decadent alongside pools of caramel, chocolate, and a dollop of whipped cream.

THREE AND A HALF STARS: Pairing the passion of it’s Chef/Owner with a sizable menu and plenty of well-sourced fish, Howard Choi’s Fish N Bowl is the sort of ‘locals-only’ place that deserves the support of anyone interested in Japanese cuisine, the relatively low price point and cozy confines speaking to a world far removed from the touristy trappings of The Strip.

RECOMMENDED: Spicy Bacon Tempura, Poke Tacos, Mr Monkey Roll, Tempura Cheesecake.

AVOID: Soft Shell Crab Cake.

TIP: Offering several Happy Hour Specials from 3-5pm daily those interested in wine, beer, or sake are encouraged to look elsewhere as Fish N Bowl currently lacks a liquor license.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

https://www.facebook.com/fishnbowlvegas/

Posted in Crab, Dessert, Fish N Bowl, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Sushi, Suzuya, Suzuya Pastries & Crepes, Tasting Menu

October 24, 2015
11:29 AM
by: Uhockey

Sprinkles [2,] Las Vegas NV

Sprinkles

Pumpkin Cupcake

Strawberry Cupcake

S’mores Cupcake

Black and White Cupcake

Fudge Brownie

Caramel Apple Cupcake Sundae – Apple Pie Ice Cream, Salted Butterscotch, Whipped Cream, Graham Cracker Crumbles

Malted Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, Coffee Fudge Almond Ice Cream, Banana Ice Cream, Salty Caramel Ice Cream, Cherry Vanilla Ice Cream, Apple Pie Ice Cream

Having once waited nearly an hour for cupcakes when Sprinkles’ only outlet was a small shop in Beverly Hills, it was just after 11am that convenient valet parking was used to make a quick stop at the friendly Linq location, smiles on servers’ faces ever-present with more than a dozen flavors of cake and ice cream from which to choose.

Missing its chance to trademark “The Happiest Place on Earth,” a sentiment seemingly shared by girls behind the counter and two youngsters with whom I waited in a line of just one before us, it was after a short bit of deliberation that a sizable order was crafted, the boxed and bagged sweets taken home for later indulgence while a delicious Apple Pie Sundae was upgraded to a cupcake sandwiched special, the first bites a tad too sweet with frosting while further mixing uncovered a beautiful sort of balance, the spicecake and graham cracker crumbles melding nicely with whipped cream and butterscotch amidst some of the creamiest fruit-focused ice cream around.

Waiting until around 3pm for the rest, four cupcakes along with a brownie and six pints of ice cream given to me as a gift obviously far too much for one man to enjoy, it was with alternating bites that various items were sampled and with the oddly artificial tasting banana ice cream lone exception to items crafted from superior ingredients the results of everything else were decidedly quite excellent, the bruleed marshmallow fluff of a S’mores cupcake mellowing the bittersweet chocolate center atop a crunchy graham cracker base while Black & White riffed successfully on the deli cookie classic, the best bites of ice cream a tough decision between milk chocolate punched up with malt balls and aforementioned apple pie.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Rare to support an outsider over locals, and equally skeptical of high prices based on branding and swanky design, it remains difficult to find fault in a company that has continued to improve its standards despite mass expansion, a rare case where a once trendy choice has aged well with the times.

RECOMMENDED: Apple Pie Ice Cream, Malted Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, S’mores Cupcake, Black & White Cupcake.

AVOID: Banana Ice Cream tasted “enchanced” and almost artificial, likely the result of too much added sweetness to that already present in overripe fruit.

TIP: Selections vary by day, week, and month with a somewhat cumbersome menu listed both onsite and online, those interested in specifics are encouraged to investigate in advance.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.sprinkles.com/

Posted in Coffee, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Sprinkles

October 24, 2015
9:27 AM
by: Uhockey

Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro [2,] Las Vegas NV

Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro

Beignets

Burundi-Nyangwe Coffee

Bloody Mary

MIXED “RED SALAD” & NECTARINES – Assorted Red Baby Lettuces, Nectarines, Radicchio, Red Belgian Endive, Walnut Oil Vinaigrette, Toasted Hazelnuts, Laura Chanel Goat Cheese

BACON & ROASTED TOMATO RISOTTO – Applewood Bacon, Onion, Organic Tomatoes, Fava Beans, Parmesan Cheese

DUNGENESS CRAB OSCAR BENEDICT – Asparagus, Dungeness Crab, Poached Eggs, Citrus Hollandaise

PRIME FLAT IRON STEAK – Roasted Onions, Maître d’ Butter, Handcut French Fries

CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA – Pan Sauteed Chicken Breast, Prosciutto, Comté Cheese, Sauce Mornay

CHEFS CANDIED CALIFORNIA GROWN WALNUTS + CHEESE PLATE – California Coastal Honeycomb, Baguette, Date and Walnut Paste, Henri Hutin Brie Couronne, Saint Andre, Chaumes, Gorgonzola Dolce DOP, Huntsman Gloucester, Old Quebec 7 Year Aged Cheddar, Humboldt Fog, Redwood Cheddar Goat, Mitibleu, Grand Ewe 12 Month Aged

BANANA & MARSCAPONE STUFFED FRENCH TOAST – Saigon Cinnamon, 100% Pure Maple Syrup

ORGANIC BLUEBERRY PANCAKES – Flavored with Lemon & Orange Zest, 4 Cakes, Maple Syrup

HOUSEMADE SEA SALT CARAMEL ICE CREAM – Self Salted

HOUSEMADE LEMON MERINGUE ICE CREAM – Fresh Marshmallow

MINT CHOCOLTE CHIP ICE CREAM

STRAWBERRY CROSTATA – Almond Cream, Sugar & Balsamic Marinated Strawberries, Smoked Ricotta Ice Cream

Located off the lobby of The Palazzo and, as such, easily missed by those visiting the property who are not checking in, Morels could easily be seen as the “third option” steakhouse in a resort complex housing Carnevino as well as Delmonico, but a close look shows several differences, a leisurely breakfast or brunch on the outdoor patio providing a great opportunity to take them all in, particularly the city’s greatest cheese selection.

Part of a small group, another location found at The Grove in Beverly Hills, Morels spins French on the traditional “big meat” concept and going so far as to produce their own wines a glimpse at the interior speaks to the grand brasseries of Central Europe with large nudes hung on walls and an airy, spacious layout while an oyster bar sits up front to tempt those without time or interest for a table within.

Sitting with two friends and a trio of children at a spacious table of three two-tops fit together overlooking the sunny 9:00am Strip below, it was admittedly as guests of the house that a sizable meal was taken, the feast essentially comprised of four courses with children’s orders thankfully taken first as two-hours of restaurant rumors and banter proved a challenge for all but the 2-year old, the staff doing an admirable job of expediting plates…and an even better one of trying to clear space for what was decidedly too much food.

Perhaps not going to the lengths of Batali or Lagasse in terms of meat sourcing or buying produce from the very best purveyors around, suffice it to say that those interested in coffee are well advised to elect service from French Presses featuring roasts from Equator, for although priced at $5-7 per person depending on the bean the quality offered from Thomas Keller’s preferred brand are easily the best in Sheldon Adelson’s complex, particularly with free refills arriving promptly as cup-after-cup was downed.

Offering Mimosas and Bloody Marys mixed tableside it is with pillowy beignets that each brunch at Morels begins, and although granulated sugar would better be replaced with the powdered stuff of New Orleans the oilless donuts proved quite light, as did the leafy greens dressed in fruit and balsamic with a great kick added by Laura Chanel’s ever creamy chevre.

Attempting to sample a good variety of items, rather than just focus on obvious ‘breakfast hits,’ it was with four savories ranging from sandwiches to benedicts that meal marched on and although the picked crab crowned with a perfectly poached egg was unfortunately overwhelmed by a touch too much lemon while a steak requested ‘medium’ was tender and tasty despite being served nearly blue atop a bed of sauteed onions, both the chicken sandwich and risotto were exceedingly well executed – the former particularly intricate with the nuttiness of Comte playing nicely off peppery arugula bathed in buttery Mornay.

Assuredly taking the opportunity to explore a recently updated carte du fromage, something Morels would be well advised to emphasize both at the tableside and in advertisements around the resort, it was with a great deal of effort that selections were limited to a mere ten options and weaving a wide swath of beasts, countries, and textures one would be hard pressed to make a single bad choice – the aged Canadian Cheddar particularly on-point while both the creamy Brie and Stilton-Sandwich Huntsman were equally well selected, palates rejuvenated between bites by candied walnuts and date paste made in house.

Never one to skimp on sweets, though admittedly a bit disappointed that nearly half the desserts are unavailable at brunch (as is the cheese fondue,) it was still in pancakes, French toast, and a lovely rustic tart that the afternoon concluded, the Pacojet crafted quartet of ice creams exceedingly rich and creamy with the marshmallow studded lightness of lemon meringue the best amongst the crowd.

THREE AND A HALF STARS: Neither trying nor succeeding in any way to steal the thunder of other Steakhouses within the Venetian/Palazzo complex, Morels is better appraised as an upper/mid-range option to be celebrated for its differences, the early opening hours offering a significant upgrade on Grand Lux in terms of service or setting while the fromage, coffee, and ice cream are Strip-side second to none.

RECOMMENDED: As many cheese selections as one can stomach, Chicken Saltimboca Sandwich, Lemon Meringue Ice Cream, Strawberry Crostada, French Press Coffee.

AVOID: Dungeness Crab Oscar Benedict.

TIP: Open at 7am M-F for breakfast and 8am for weekend brunch, cheese menu and coffee beans vary seasonally.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://morelslv.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Morels, Morels French Steakhouse, Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro, Nevada, Pork

October 23, 2015
7:13 PM
by: Uhockey

Jean Georges Steakhouse, Las Vegas NV

Jean Georges Steakhouse

Yuzu Lemon Drop – Kai Soju, Contreau, Yuzu, Lemongrass

Pretzel Bread, Baguette, Cranberry Walnut Bread, Spicy Cracker with Butter

Wagyu Carpaccio – Black Truffle Fritters & Lime Salt, Grated Black Truffles

Burrata Cheese – Autumn Fruits from the Intuitive Forager, Rice and Seed Cracker

Foie Gras – Roasted Grapes, Sake Emulsion, Brioche

Crunchy Organic Chicken – Spinach and Buttery Hot Sauce, Tempura

Slow Baked Salmon – Black Truffle Crumbs, Smooth and Crispy Parsnips, Coconut Milk, Shaved Truffles

Diver Scallop – Trumpet Mushrooms & Fragrant Delicata Squash with Flavors of Tom Kha

Soy Glazed Short Rib – Granny Smith Apple & Jalapeno Slaw and Puree

Aspen Ridge All Natural Beef, Dry Aged Rangers Valley Australian Beef, Certified A5 Japanese Wagyu with Homemade Hot Sauce, Soy Miso Butter, Bearnaise, JG Steak Sauce

Baked Sweet Potato – Maple Butter & Seed Granola

Creamed Kale – Ember Roasted Poblano Pepper

Black Truffle Mac & Cheese with Shaved Truffle and Brioche Crumble

Market Apple Pie – Maple Pecan Ice Cream

Almond Cake – Poached Pear, Fig, Port Sorbet

Peanut Butter Brownie Sundae – Chocolate Gelato, Whipped Cream, Concord Grape Sorbet, Sliced Grapes, Roasted Peanuts

Considered by some to be the hipper, younger brother to Jean Georges Vongerichten’s stunning PRIME at Bellagio it may perhaps be a simple case of a saturated marketplace that has seen the New York Restauranteur’s eponymous Steakhouse at Aria overlooked for rankings amongst the city’s best, but recently reintroducing Chef Sean Griffin’s talents to some of the best protein and produce available a nine-course tour of sixteen menu items on Friday showed the sort of creativity rarely associated with restaurants pigeonholed for grilled meats.

Certainly more modern than the soft stylings seen from a fountainside table at Bellagio, the dark interior and wall-sourced lighting adding intimacy to booths while tables near the expansive wine rack are better lit from spotlights up above, music trends a bit ‘bumping’ at times but is never intrusive in the experience, just enough to drown the din of a 400+ person room.

Acknowledging that my menu was part self-selected and otherwise carte-blanche at a discounted tasting-menu price bolstered by a few luxury ingredients and service beyond reproach, it was after greetings from Chefs, Managers, and Sommelier that the meal got started, a $16 Lemon Drop dressing up Soju in citrus beneath a salted rim with herbals greeting both the palate and nose.

Almost empty for the first hour of my meal, but filling to 2/3 capacity by the time 7:30pm rolled around, it was as demi-portions of most of the plates that the menu progressed and with an excellent bread basket featuring warm pretzels and lightly spiced crisps clearly warranting overindulgence the menu evening thankfully started off lightly, two thin slices of wagyu draped delicately over cream-centered fritters with shredded truffles adding a bold and aromatic edge.

Favoring the produce of Kerry Clasby for almost every plate in the place Chef Griffin presented course two as “a farmers basket from the Intuitive Forager,” the smoothness of the cheese playing beautifully off peerless figs, grapes, apples, and pears with nuance and crunch added by a crisp made of rice flour and ground sesame seeds.

Essentially incapable of failing with a perfectly seared slice of foie gras floated on brioche in a bubbling broth of top grade sake with notes described by the restaurant’s Somm, it was onward to a surprisingly even better bird that the evening moved forth, the grilled tempura-fried chicken offering the utmost amount of crunch encircling juicy flesh as hot sauce dissolved in butter found its foil in tender spinach beneath.

Next offering two protiens I’d suggested as ‘dull’ when asked why my self-seleccted menu contained no fish, suffice it to say that although the salmon was well cooked it was completely secondary to the quality of accoutrements including shaved truffles and lightly sweetened parsnips in two forms while the sashimi-grade scallop may as well have been raw at its interior beneath a caramelized sear while light heat accented the aromatic broth.

Acknowledging jokes about ordering short ribs at a steakhouse, but worth tossing that rule out the window for the soy-soaked masterpiece that embodies Vongerichten’s East-West fusion style, it was in three carefully sourced steaks along with sides that savories concluded, each medium-rare strip tender and remarkably different, the nutty dry-aged funk of the Australian hybrid my personal favorite while both the sweet potato and truffle topped pasta were both sides one may wish to hoard rather than share.

Impressed by elaborate desserts at PRIME, but seeing the menu trend more upscale-comfortable on the Aria’s second floor, one would be hard-pressed to name s better apple pie in the city than the cast-iron masterpiece with a sugar crusted lattice and although the almond cake itself was a bit more dry than one might have wanted despite the sorbet, figs, and balsamic a far better composition was found in the tasting-menu-only sundae, a case of the classic flavors of peanut butter and jelly reinvented with no layer upon layer of texture and intrigue.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Undoubtedly underregarded in a city where steakhouses sometimes seem far too common, Jean Georges Steakhouse not only steps outside the tried-and-true formula of success but does so with some of the best ingredients in the city, a fact easily overlooked by the expense account or convention crowd but one that shows the work of a kitchen willing to take the extra steps to provide those paying attention a truly excellent experience.

RECOMMENDED: Crunchy Organic Chicken, Baked Sweet Potato, Dry Aged Rangers Valley Australian Beef, Soy-Glazed Short Rib, Market Apple Pie.

AVOID: The Almond Cake was too dry and the baguette in the bread basket fails to live up to the rest.

TIP: Offering a $69 early evening menu, $125 tasting menu, and daily specials there are plenty of great ways to dine at Jean Georges Steakhouse without breaking the bank…and plenty of good ways to go all-in, as well.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.aria.com/dining/restaurants/jean-georges-steakhouse

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Jean Georges Steakhouse, Las Vegas, Nevada, Tasting Menu

October 17, 2015
6:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Chada Street, Las Vegas NV

Chada Street

Blue Pea Limenade

Sai Oua – Northern Style Spicy Herb Sausage

Moo Ping – Garlic Pork Skewers

Kao Pad Mun Pu – Crab Fried Rice

Sen Mee Kang Pou – Crab Curry with Rice Noodles

Duck Panang – Crispy Roasted Duck with Panang Curry

Kang Kua Supparos – Pork and Pineapple Curry

Ka Moo Tod – Crispy Pork Hock

Peak Kai Saap – Spicy Tangy Chicken Wings

Pad Ped Pla Duk – Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste and Green Bean

Larb Moo – Ground Pork, Chili, Onion, Lime Juice, Fish Sauce

Moo Tod Nam Pla – Fried Pork Belly with Nam Prik Noom

O-Aew – Shaved Ice, Coconut Jelly, Palm Seed, Red Bean, Black Jelly

Kanom-Pung Sung Kaya – Warm Bread with Pandan Custard

Honey Toast – Chocolate

Honey Toast – Vanilla

In some ways taking a ”casual” detour from the more traditional cuisine of Chada Thai and Wine on Jones, Bank Atcharawan’s recently launched Chada Street sees the acclaimed chef take on an aggressive menu of items commonly consumed from the vendors of Thailand’s street markets, the results oftentimes resoundingly successful though service still has a long way to go.

Elegantly decorated in a stripmall on Spring Mountain, the bustling plaza unfortunately falling short of parking on Saturday at 7:30pm, Chada Street occupies a footprint nearly threefold the size of Bank’s original restaurant and with a well-appointed bar beneath a photographic mural stretching the length of the dining room the seating options offered are multiple, the leather-clad lounge up front perfect for relaxation while a more proper meal is offered amongst low-lit tables or a private room extending back behind all-glass wine storage.

Prominently featuring Rieslings, though certainly not lacking for well-priced spirits sourced from around the globe, it was with menus presented beneath lightly playing tunes from Chvrches that our party of seven made selections, a total of twelve plates complimented by three more at the chef’s discretion proving an adequate amount of food for all persons present with some actually leaving quite stuffed.

Noting up front that waitresses undoubtedly speak better English than I do Thai, suffice it to say that language barriers played a big part in service issues almost from the moment seats were taken and despite repeated requests to have items paced out it was not once but twice that items were returned to the kitchen, drink refills clearly not on the list of priorities despite the menu’s bold spice profile while other oysters and pandan custard were forgotten until staff was reminded.

Speaking next to the quality of the kitchen it should seem obvious that such a broad menu is bound to occasionally miss the mark, but setting aside pork belly that was surprisingly devoid of flavor and O-Aew that was more snow-cone than shaved ice the rest of the cuisine was well crafted and occasionally quite stunning without once drifting too spicy to be appealing.

Doing our best to experience a wide swath of Chada Street’s cuisine it was perhaps with good fortune that opening plates showed most strongly, and with blue tea that turned purple with the addition of citrus adequately refreshing palates between bites both the housemade pork sausage and duo of crabs were each boldly flavored and nicely presented, a requested side of rice helping sop up the Sen Mee Kang Pou’s sauce while skewers of grilled pork would have better ordered in double to allow for more sharing.

Already seeing the 8-top’s capacity likely to be challenged by sizable service plates and portions defying the low costs it was mere moments after round one that two more curries presented, the slightly overcooked pork shank also allowed to be delivered while four more plates were refused, then sent back once more to be reprepared just ten minutes later so that the crispy skinned fowl and pork in a pool of spicy pineapple broth could properly be savored.

No doubt attuned to his recipes, Atcharawan’s spicier plates saved until later in the meal, it was with a light tingle from the crab and duck sill lingering on the lips that the oft-raved larb was presented, and ‘hot’ to some even though requested medium both the flavor and texture were indeed excellent, the catfish in chili paste equally praiseworthy while the crisp chicken wings got a little lost in a flavor I presume was a numbing spice mixed with tamarind.

Passing on durian based desserts and modestly amused by the mix-ins beneath the aforementioned ‘shaved ice,’ it was perhaps ‘lucky’ that a double order of warm bread beneath sweet custard reminiscing of Ghostbusters was brought forth singular since several in the group were already topped off, the duo of honey toasts forgivingly smaller than those at Hachi or Izakaya and undoubtedly benefited by more honey and creamier ice cream.

THREE AND A HALF STARS: Still finding its footing, the front of house lagging behind the skills of those at the stoves, Chada Street is a welcome addition to a genre that has seen great growth since Lotus of Siam became a destination, the comfortable modern layout and favorable pricepoint more than enough reason for both neophytes and fans of the original to stop in for anything from a small bite to a multi-course feast with wine.

RECOMMENDED: Larb Moo, Sai Oua, Pad Ped Pla Duk, Sen Mee Kang Pou, Kanom-Pung Sung Kaya.

AVOID: Moo Tod Nam Pla, O-Aew.

TIP: Open for lunch as well as dinner on weekdays, dinner only on Saturday and Sunday, the online menu currently only represents a fraction of the plates offered, those interested in specifics are encouraged to call and inquire.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.chadastreet.com/

Posted in Chada Street, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

October 17, 2015
4:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Showboy Bakeshop, Henderson NV

Showboy Bakeshop

Chocolate Chip Cookie

Pumpkin Cookie

Peanut Butter Cookie

Red Velvet and Buttercream Showich

Red Carpet Cupcake – Red Velvet with Cream Cheese Frosting

Wonderland Cupcake – Carrot Cake with Orange Blossom Cream Cheese

The Showboy Cupcake – Marble Cake with Nutella Mousse

The Show Off Cupcake – Salted Caramel Buttercream on Devil’s Food Cake filled with Dulce de Leche

Long on my Henderson ‘to do’ list with interest stoked by recent praise from a friend who used the bakery to craft a special event cake, it was just after 3:00pm on Saturday afternoon that a stop was made at Showboy Bakeshop, the small stripmall space all decked out in spooky skeletons, spiders, and pirates for the upcoming Halloween holiday with a bright eyed middle-age clerk happy to chat and recommendations not for lack.

Voted “Best of Las Vegas” by The Review-Journal and featuring the baked goods of former Strip performer Stephen Lowry while partner Jared Sullivan puts his management studies from UNLV to good use in running the shop, those visiting Showboy for the first time are likely to be impressed by the attention to detail in everything from presentation to decoration, over a dozen varieties of cupcakes routinely offered while fancy custom cakes build the fortress atop a semicircular counter behind glass.

Certainly a ‘locals only’ sort of place, the Anthem Village Drive address several miles from any sort of tourist destination worth mention, it was after some discussion with staff about recommendations as well as personal preferences that eight items were selected, the $18.25 total not exactly a deal considering the fact that most of the items, at least by modern standards, trend petite.

Taking the boxed and bagged goods elsewhere for enjoyment, the small table at Showboy pretty enough though awkward in full view of the room, it was with a quartet of cookies that tasting soon commenced and although the cream-filled Red Velvet sandwich was soft and pleasant with the white chocolate chips adding nuance, the rest of the $1.25-each trio unfortunately offered little in terms of moistness, the peanut butter particularly inedible without a beverage though the pumpkin did at least offer a nice bit of spice.

Expecting a bit more from cupcakes, the store proudly displaying Food Network credentials on a poster near the door, it was admittedly a difficult process narrowing ‘wants’ to just four selections and balancing personal tastes with supposed ‘best sellers’ both the Red Velvet and Dark Chocolate “Show Off” featured a moist base beneath smooth frosting, the same not to be said of the eponymous Marble Cake that was again far to dry while “Wonderland” made me wonder why anyone would ruin such a good carrot cake with notes of Sunny-D.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: Unquestionably living up to its name, the showmanship evident in everything from the store’s layout to exquisite cake designs, Lowry’s self-training is unfortunately evident in hit-and-miss execution with the desert dryness doing several items no favors and unnecessary flights of whimsy occasionally getting in the way.

RECOMMENDED: The Show Off, Red Carpet, Red Velvet Showich.

AVOID: The Showboy, Peanut Butter Cookie, Wonderland (unless you really love artificial citrus.)

TIP: Open daily at 10am, Showboy Bakeshop also offers several baking essentials, cake stands, and gifts as well as branded goods.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

www.showboybakeshop.com/

Posted in cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Henderson, Las Vegas, Nevada, Showboy, Showboy Bakeshop

October 17, 2015
12:01 PM
by: Uhockey

Born and Raised, Henderson NV

Born and Raised

Sweet Corn Tamale Cakes – Salsa Verde, Sour Cream, Pico de Gallo, Avocado

Con Queso – Warm Tortilla Chips, Chorizo Cheese Dip

Corn Doggy Dogs – Mini Turkey Corn Dogs, Sriracha Ketchup

Poutine – French Fries, Melted Mozzarella, Brown Gravy, Shredded Beef

Stuffed Mushrooms – Spinach, Caramelized Onion, Parmesan, Mozzarella Cheese

JC Crunch Slider – Ground Angus, BBQ Potato Chips, Cheddar Cheese, Jalapeno Cream Cheese

Chicken Katsu Slider – Panko Crust, Tonkatsu Sauce, Hawaiian Macaroni Salad

BBQ Pulled Pork Slider – Homemade Bar-B-Cue Sauce, Cole Slaw

Cubano – Roast Pork, Ham, Swiss, Pickles, Mustard

Banh Mi – Sriracha Glazed Chicken, Cucumber, Cilantro, Carrots, Sriracha Aioli

Breakfast Slider – Scrambled Eggs, Bacon, American Cheese

Blueberry Pancake – Brown Sugar Whiskey Syrup

Buttermilk Pancake – Brown Sugar Whiskey Syrup

Cookie Dough Pancake – Brown Sugar Whiskey Syrup

Carrot Cake French Toast – Cinnamon Cream Cheese, Brown Sugar Whiskey Syrup

Fried Chicken and Donut Sandwich – Pepper-Jack Cheese, Bacon, Brown Sugar Whiskey Syrup served on a Glazed Donut

With more 24/7 dining establishments than any other two Americam cities combined, Born And Raised holds a special place in Las Vegas’ most under-regarded niche genre largely as a result of its dedication to local culture and the Runnin’ Rebels but also in part due to a menu that tries a lot harder than it ‘needs’ to, the new Henderson location offering a similar experience to the Southwest original with a significant upgrade in décor.

Proudly touting its homegrown ownership and featuring large murals of Fear & Loathing as well as Elvis plus a bathroom papered with an aerial shot of the urban sprawl it was with prior arrangements made through Marketing Director Curtis Boldman that a menu was arranged to allow for demi-portions of some plates as well as single sliders when the usual order comprises three of the same.

Without a doubt a great place for watching sports, the wall of televisions complimented by tableside bluetooth broadcast boxes that can be tuned to commentary over the din of tunes ranging from Hendrix and Seger to Aerosmith and CCR, it was with pleasant, if not attentive, service that the meal took place throughout the first-half of the Wolverines vs. Spartans shocker, requests for courses to be spaced out by the kitchen repeatedly ignored while coffee refills took a backseat to other tables running up a more substantial tab of beer and mixed drinks.

Offering the whole menu all-day and all-night it was in sixteen items that an opinion of B.A.R.’s cuisine was amassed and although the breakneck pace often led to overcrowding and an ability to truly enjoy the items as leisurely as I would have liked the results were generally occasionally executed, albeit with a several significant fumbles.

Starting out with a corncake that was lukewarm on arrival and really done no favors by flavorless salsa and pico despite avocado that was creamy and fresh, it was onward to miniature corndogs with ketchup that was really no better than that from a bottle that the meal marched onward, B.A.R.’s signature sliders thankfully offering a greater degree of intrigue as the Tonkatsu, Cubano, and Banh Mi all riffed admirably on the sandwiches in which they were rooted, the perfect medium ground beef with chips a surprisingly complex little bite while the pulled pork was unfortunately far too sweet.

Thoroughly turned off by mushroom caps that were rendered rubbery in a pool of butter, the mozzarella put to far better use atop crispy fries with gravy and shredded beef that arrived in an enormous bowl despite instructions from the waitress that portions should be halved, suffice it to say I did manage to enjoy a quite a few bites before an overfilled table saw the cheese coagulate, a small sample of Con Queso not so lucky as it quickly became gelatinous and thick enough to break off the store-bought chips.

Admittedly most interested in breakfast fare, the slider served earlier on featuring a nice piece of bacon with fluffy eggs and American cheese, it was in a crispy chicken breast atop a grilled donut that savory courses transitioned to more dessert-like items, the light brushing of maple admirably complimenting the briny bacon and melted pepperjack cheese.

Passing on pancakes during visits to the original Born And Raised, but here given the chance to taste all three as singles, those fancying a more fluffy flapjack would do best to search elsewhere for as much as both the bountiful blueberries and melted chunks of raw cookie were indeed tasty all three discs were served without butter and a touch too crispy, the sliced and griddled carrot cake a far better investment with a moist center full of nuts and spice nicely accented by rich cream cheese frosting.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: A flawed showing, perhaps in some ways my fault for not being very specific from the outset that I had no time commitments and wanted to watch the whole game without being rushed, my initial impressions formed at the original Born And Raised were mostly confirmed during a visit to its gorgeous new storefront, the menu far more intriguing than the average “Sports Bar” or 24/7 though service and execution remain a work in progress.

RECOMMENDED: Chicken Katsu Slider, Cubano Slider, Poutine, Fried Chicken and Donut Sandwich, Carrot Cake French Toast.

AVOID: Stuffed Mushrooms, Con Queso, Sweet Corn Tamale Cakes, Pulled Pork Slider.

TIP: 24/7 with Free WiFi, those sensitive to smoke are encouraged to sit as close to the large wall of televisions as possible, or to request the garage door gated private room with largescale theater screen.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.bornandraisedlv.com/

Posted in B.A.R., Born and Raised, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Henderson, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

October 16, 2015
8:00 PM
by: Uhockey

Hachi Japanese Yakitori Izakaya, Las Vegas NV

Hachi Yakitori

Tamago Omelet – Ginger

Crispy Chicken Skin

Garlic Edamame

Shiitake Butter – Shiitake Mushroom with butter & soy sauce

Yamaimo Chips – Japanese Mountain Yam Skin fried with Isobe Style

Ikayaki – Spicy Mayo

Juicy Chicken Karaage – Deep Fried Chicken thigh with house special negi sauce

Ground Tsukune

Cheese Chikuwa Tempura – Mozzarella cheese wrapped with fish cake and deep fried with tempura

Pork Belly Tare

Teppan Beef Tongue – Tomatoes and Bean Sprouts

Kurobuta Sausage – Ketchup and Mustard, Salsa

Appetizer Trio – Eggplant Mustard, Tuna with Seaweed and Miso, Arugula Negi

Matcha Panna Cotta – Red Bean

Honey Toast – Vanilla Ice Cream

Located on Jones, in the same plaza as China Mama and Chada Thai, Hachi is a relative newcomer to the growing izakaya scene in Las Vegas’ Chinatown and owned by the team behind acclaimed Ramen Sora it was with two friends and a four year old that dinner was enjoyed this past Saturday, the results a bit mixed but at times more impressive than Raku at a lower pricepoint and far less of a hassle.

Spacious in layout, a center bar welcoming solos and those looking to experience a limited selection of raw fish cut to order, it was at one of the comfortable booths circling the restaurant perimeter that our group was sat and with service always nearby, pleasant, and happy to answer questions it was after a brief description of daily specials that a bakers-dozen items were selected, several ordered in duplicate with the total bill tallying just under $30 per person.

Unfortunately one of those places to which “coursing out” plates is a foreign concept, despite several requests not to overwhelm the table, it was with a relatively limp and flavorless presentation of chilled omelet that the meal kicked off, but following this up almost immediately with two styles of fried crisps both the chicken skins and house-special mountain yam were lightly seasoned and virtually oilless, the first bold bit of flavor presented by garlic soaked edamame that permeated the air in a ten foot radius.

Underwhelming again with buttered mushrooms that were tender enough, though not particularly well displayed beneath too much salt, it was with the whole squid that grilled items began to arrive, the tenderness of the cephalopod’s flesh found beneath snappy initial resistance as a kiss of charred lemon added ‘pop’ with or without the spicy mayo addition.

Surprised by the thickness of fried chicken thigh that was both tender and immensely juicy on a plate of miso sauce imbued with smoke and onions the evening’s most intriguing bite was soon offered by “Cheese Chikuwa Tempura,” the thinly rolled fish layer not dissimilar to the flavor of salt-cod beneath light batter with a gooey mozzarella interior.

Progressing to three items from the low temperature binchotan grill, all ‘Out-Rakuing’ Raku in terms of smoke profile and tenderness with the ground pork Tsukune particularly memorable amongst the group, it was with a bit less enthusiasm that the daily appetizer trio hit out table – the raw tuna well flavored while the rest were mostly throwaways, the daily special beef tongue marred by being overcooked by tableside searing, a Bill Walton quote-in-waiting about “letting the show get in the way of the game.”

Saddening the little fella at the table by informing us that softserve was unavailable it was nonetheless in two desserts that the evening called it an end and although the bittersweet panna cotta with an unexpected red bean core was a bit meager in portion considering the $6 pricetag, the $7.98 Honey Toast more than made up for it as the half-loaf was presented golden, buttery, and crisp yet at the same time still saturated with sweetness.

THREE STARS: Excelling with some items while fumbling and frustrating with others that seemed slipshod in their execution despite otherwise good ingredients and intentions, Hachi is the sort of place where a good meal can be had at a relatively low investment while a more memorable overall experience would be better sought at Raku for those interested in esoterica or Kyara at a similar cost.

RECOMMENDED: Tsukune, Cheese Chikuwa Tempura, Ikayaki, Honey Toasr

AVOID: Appetizer Trio, Tamago.

TIP: 5pm to 2:30am daily, specials listed on the whiteboard at the door.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://hachilv.com

Posted in Dessert, Food, Hachi, Hachi Japanese Yakitori Izakaya, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

October 16, 2015
5:04 PM
by: Uhockey

Other Mama, Las Vegas NV

Other Mama

Kinmedai – Shaved Caviar, Orange Zest, Fennel, Sea Salt

Live Octopus Carpaccio with Cilantro, Peppers, Onions, Garlic, House Ponzu, Sesame Oil

Lobster Chawanmushi with Lobster, Lobster Mushrooms, Lobster Gravy, Tempura Shiso

Blue Crab, Caviar, Asparagus Hand Roll

Caviar & French Toast – Crème Fraiche

Oyster Foie Rockefeller

Shrimp & Jalapeño Hush Puppies

Togarashi Waffle Fries with Miso Hollandaise

Pork Belly Kim Chi Fried Rice – Wild Mushroom, Fried Egg

Japanese Cheesecake with Blackberry Puree

Miso Honey Ice Cream

Successful in the rare trifecta of wowing critics, Yelpers, and even his fellow chefs ever since opening the doors it was nonetheless with modest expectations that a ‘challenge,’ of sorts, from Chef Dan Krohmer was accepted, his suggestion to sit in front of him at the sushi bar for a tour of Other Mama’s menu showing not only the sort of sourcing and creativity rarely seen in the Southwest suburbs, but also a man truly dedicated to his craft.

Repeatedly praised for elaborate mixology and oysters that outperform their modest price, it was admittedly a general blasé for both that contributed to an avoidance of the spot for so long despite its accolades, and communicating exactly that to the 35-year owner it was with some of the best restaurant tunes in Sin City playing that I sat back in the comfort of a high-backed chair and placed the experience in his hands.

Raised in a small American mining town but finding his passion for sushi in the mid-teens with subsequent training ranging from Northern California all the way to Japan those who are lucky enough to chat with Krohmer will find him to be a humble and straightforward sort with plenty of opinions, anecdotes, and amusing perceptions about dining out and starting with fresh fishes brought in daily from purveyors harnessed through work with Morimoto and others the meal began with meaty slices of Golden Eye Snapper topped in orange zest and compressed caviar, the fattiness of the mild fish providing a silky mouthfeel while the accents rode high on the palate in complimentary fashion as not to overwhelm.

Certainly not an AYCE spot with rolls dripping in God-knows-what, Dan’s most ‘saucy’ plate was a carpaccio of nerve-intact octopus straight from Japan and slicing it razor thin with a warm topping of ponzu and aromatic vegetables the flavor was exceedingly complex yet not at all fussy, a similar compliment due for the steamed jar of custard that simultaneously roused thoughts of lobster bisque with more texture and more traditional chawanmushi with more nuance, the shiso an inspired addition that played well off the mushroom-based umami.

Treated next to a handroll that really couldn’t fail by matching sweet blue crab to caviar with late-season asparagus added for crunch it was onward to demi-portions of some of Other Mama’s signatures that the Omakase marched on, the caviar French Toast a clever little bite that appeals to my well-documented breakfast proclivities while the meal’s lone oyster replaced butter with foie gras in an otherwise classic preparation that had me wishing for another piece of toast to soak up the liver infused liquor.

Rounding out the meal with three fried items, certainly a bit more hearty than the meal’s light start, it serves as a testament to the skill of the staff that each one still far outperformed what might be expected as the hushpuppies were so lightly oiled that they could have easily passed for baked while the crispy hand-cut fries were better than any served at some Strip steakhouse, both sauces also quite memorable, particularly the miso-lightened Hollandaise, as was a sizable bowl of fried rice with generous slices of pork belly set against a backdrop of woodsy mushrooms and modestly heated housemade kimchee.

At first sort of surprising that desserts are made in house, at least until I had talked to Chef Krohmer and realized he’d have it no other way, suffice it to say that those looking for a sweeter cheesecake will likely find the one at Other Mama a bit flat while the texture could stand to be a bit more creamy, but admitting that the ice creams are made with nothing more than at $200 Kitchen-Aid the smarter money is no doubt on one of the four or five daily options, in this case the oft-praised Miso-Honey proving to be one of the very best scoops in the city and a veritable steal at just two dollars for something so subtly sweet and creamy.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: In so many ways the perfect answer to the question of what sort of restaurant Las Vegas NEEDS it is only the small size of the kitchen at Other Mama and relative limitations of such that are holding Krohmer and his team back from being a true destination sort of place, although perhaps that is actually a good thing considering too much more praise may make it difficult to get a seat.

RECOMMENDED: Live Octopus Carpaccio, Lobster Chawanmushi, Caviar & French Toast, Pork Belly Kimchee Fried Rice, Miso Honey Ice Cream.

AVOID: Admitting a pronounced sweet tooth I would have preferred a sweeter cheesecake and more dessert options in general, though a run through the rest of the ice creams is assuredly going to take place next time.

TIP: Beginning Happy Hour this coming week, starting at 4pm, what more incentive do you need to go?

http://www.othermamalv.com/

Posted in Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Octopus, Other Mama, Pork, Tasting Menu

October 16, 2015
3:00 PM
by: Uhockey

Pawn Donut and Coffee, Las Vegas NV

Pawn Donut and Coffee

Pumpkin Cheesecake

The King

Raised and Glazed

Apple Fritter

Crodough

Holey Moley! Donut Holes (Red Velvet and Classic)

Located in the recently opened Pawn Plaza, a sort-off “Container Park” concept on South Las Vegas Boulevard near to the Shop that spawned the Show that launched the musical (that bombed) and countless other concepts comprising the Brand, it was midday Friday that a stop was made at Pawn Donut and Coffee, and with friendly attendants offering contests and coupons in the free lot a quick perusal of other eateries showed a number of familiar faces, a familiarity that actually spills over to both the fried carbohydrates and coffee roasted by Illy.

Admitting a bit of predilection to the pastry our country has always defined as a breakfast treat but only recently rediscovered as something worthy of more artistry and attention to detail, it does not take more than a quick perusal of the PD&C website to realize the work is eerily similar to Pink Box or Donut Mania, the later actually producing the goods at owner Ralph Cautela’s request as he feels their donuts are the best in The Valley.

Not particularly wowed by my lone visit to Donut Mania, the pastries themselves good enough but off-put by the owner accosting me at the door for simply snapping an exterior photo before explaining himself and telling his story, suffice it to say that options are a bit more limited at the Pawn Plaza outlet while the nod definitely goes their way for smiling service and outdoor seating, though certainly not for pricing.

Acknowledging the address + fame-based up-sell, though still not thrilled to spend nearly $15 for six selections ranging from $1.50 Classics to $3 for 5 Donut Holes and a $2.50 Special, it was with each item bagged individually that way was made to the patio for indulgence, first bites of the cake-style red velvet a bit light in cocoa while the white version tasted like a top-tier old fashioned with great texture to the dough.

Onward to the brioche style of yeasted donuts made popular at Pink Box, though supposedly developed by Wayne at Donut Mania, a Raised and Glazed ring next proved pillowy and delicious while the layers of lamination beneath a sugary lacquer placed the much improved alt-named hybrid on par with ACE on Tropicana or Press at The Four Seasons amongst the best textured in the country.

Unfortunately finding the seasonal filled donut to be far too much cream cheese and not enough spice or pumpkin puree, it was in two more successful selections that the not-so-modest snack concluded, the fritter well constructed with lots of apples and crispy edges in the soft-centered East Coast style while The King somehow managed to balance what must have been nearly a quarter cup of peanut butter with bruleed banana and plenty of crispy bacon stuck to a dark chocolate layer on top.

THREE STARS: Having now visited every independent doughnuttery in Las Vegas and Henderson, the results ranging from dreadful KD’s to world class ACE, Pawn Donut and Coffee is a good choice for tourists and those who happen to be in the area, though locals would be better served to experience the goods from their South Durango source where each is freshy made and a quarter or two cheaper, as well.

RECOMMENDED: Cronut, Plain Donut Holes, The King.

AVOID: Pumpkin Cheesecake.

TIP: Currently open 8a-8p Seven Days a Week to test the market, deliveries scheduled 1-2 times daily depending on demand.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://pawndonutandcoffee.com/

Posted in Dessert, Donut Mania, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pawn Donut and Coffee, Pawn Plaza, Pork

October 10, 2015
7:36 PM
by: Uhockey

chow, Las Vegas NV

chow

Kinda Chinese riblets – Bite size, bone in, pork ribs ~ hoisin bbq sauce

Shrimp dumpling – shrimp shumei with crispy bacon & dipping sauce

Crab rangoon dip – Fried eggroll skins, ponzu citrus sauce

Pho-style tofu – Cabbage, carrots, red peppers, enoki mushrooms, vegan pho-style broth, seared tofu

Crispy southern fried chicken – Sweet corn mini muffins, pickled jalapenos (4pc)

General Chow’s chicken – Crispy fried chicken, ginger, garlic, soy, rice vinegar, sweet & hot chili peppers

Chi-‘talian noodles – Bolognese-style ground pork sauce, carrots, cilantro, onion, mint over Chinese gamien (wheat) noodles

Sweet corn mini muffins

Sriracha macaroni & cheese

Mama’s rice pudding

Old school banana pudding

Dirt

Looking more vigorous than ever since losing nearly eighty pounds following gastric sleeve surgery, though still recognized by many to be one of Downtown’s first true pioneers, Natalie Young has achieved a lot in her career launched at eat, so much perhaps that it was with too high of expectations that I sat down with two ‘industry’ friends at chow, the recently launched “Fried Chicken and Chinese” joint.

Truly a Chef cooking from her heart, the legions of fans still waiting out-front of 707 East Carson each weekend a testament to the longevity of a menu that has never really needed to change, chow sees Young expanding Fremont East towards the sketchy borders approaching PublicUS and with The Bunkhouse soon to reopen plus another intriguing proposition across the street it would seem that she is again ahead of the curve, the repurposed space borrowing from Momofuku as well as Mission Chinese in its décor while still retaining a feel both homey and unique.

Channeling music from Led Zeppelin to Prince with some 80’s power-ballads tossed into the mix, chow’s menu speaks likewise of a cross-cultural mash-up of small plates alongside more sizable mains, the names as well as the concepts at times straight from take-out Chinese menus while other dishes riff on tradition in a tongue-in-cheek hipster sort of way.

Told at the door by a local ‘critic’ that the Pho was not to be missed, it was alongside three additional appetizers that our 6pm meal commenced and with servers thrice mistaking one diner’s Sprite for water while another woman’s sole duty seemed to be walking around stating – not inquiring – how good everything was suffice it to say that the tofu cubes in broth was at the very best forgettable, entirely bland and lifeless on its own and all the moreso when compared to the savory shrimp dumplings and sticky-sweet riblets, the cream cheese dip cleverly presented though decidedly light in crab.

Pleasantly paced with good conversation filling the space in between bites as tunes were thankfully not played overly loud from above, it was next in three entrees and two ‘highly recommended’ sides that palates were entrusted, the Southern Fried Chicken well seasoned straight through to the flesh alongside cornbread so dry that it was virtually inedible while both the oiled up noodles and spicy offering from the General were pronounced ‘perfect drunk food,’ the sobriety questionable of anyone fancying limp macaroni that banks on Sriracha to make its sales pitch beneath a top that is cooked to a leathery tan.

Going old-school Southern with desserts, all three from the menu ordered with Banana Pudding doubled up, those reminiscing of childhood stuff straight from the box are likely to enjoy the thickness offered by ‘Nilla wafers and roughly chopped fruit while the “rice pudding” ate like a more toothsome Jewish Kugel, the ‘dirt’ is a jar mostly just Hershey syrup and crushed up Oreos no better that what can be bought in cafeterias or at the grocery store.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: Only half-successful in execution, though admittedly early in ts run, chow will no doubt garner praise from locals if only for the city’s infatuation with Fremont East and its charismatic chef while the food still has a long way to go – place chow in any other clinical context without the involvement of Downtown Project and you have the mediocrity of M&M Soulfood meets the lesser offerings of Spring Mountain Road.

RECOMMENDED: Kinda Chinese Riblets, Chi-‘talian noodles, Shrimp Dumplings.

AVOID: Pho-Style Tofu, Sweet Corn Mini Muffins, Sriracha Macaroni & Cheese, Dirt.

TIP: Now open for lunch, those tired of waiting at eat may wish to check out chow to experience Young’s cuisine, though its a tough sell with nearby Glutton, Carson Kitchen, and Therapy executing far better at a similar price point.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.chowdtlv.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, chow, Cornbread, Crab, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

October 10, 2015
12:28 PM
by: Uhockey

Bardot Brasserie [2,] Las Vegas NV

Bardot Brasserie

Val de Mer Brut Rose

Coffee

La Boulangerie – Canele, Kouign Amann, Croissant, Chocolate Snail

Warm Baguette

Seasonal Fruit – Frozen Yogurt-Pistachio Parfait, Buckwheat Beignets

Charcuterie Board – Pate, Pork Rillettes, Saucisson Sec, Bayonne Ham

Smoked Salmon – Everything Brioche, Chive Mascarpone, Traditional Garnishes

Foie Gras Parfait – Ruby Port Gelee, Grilled Country Bread

Petit Onion Soup Gratinee – Classic Beef Broth, Baguette Crostini, Cave Aged Gruyere

Hearth Baked Quiche Forestiere with Laura Chenel Goat Cheese and Wild Mushrooms

King Crab Crepe – Buckwheat Crepe, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Sunny-Side Egg, Cider Beurre Blanc

French Omelette – Fines Herbs, Gruyere Cheese, Hash Browns, Salade Vert

Bardot Steak and Eggs – Prime Rib Eye, Two Fried Eggs, Hash Browns, Sauce Verte

Hunter’s Waffle – Duck Confit, Root Vegetables, Poached Eggs, Sauce Maltaise

Short Rib Croissant Benedict – Two Poached Eggs, Sauteed Kale, Bearnaise

Maine Lobster Thermidor – Remy Martin VSOP Cream, Root Vegetables, Bearnaise

Nutella Sticky Bun – Warm Vanilla Brioche, Brown Sugar, Candied Hazelnuts

French Toast – Brioche, Vanilla Mascarpone, Almond Brittle, Orgeat Syrup

Chocolate Macaron – French Chocolate Cookie, Dark Chocolate Mousse

Camus VS Elegance Cognac

Situated in the upstairs space at Aria that once held American Fish with a layer of polish that has not faded a bit since opening the doors earlier this year, it was with a favorable first impression already formed that I suggested brunch at Bardot Brasserie to a visiting friend from Los Angeles, the end result an absolutely dazzling feast for eight that ranks amongst the nation’s very best.

Benefited by a multi-million-dollar rebrand that starts at the beautiful bar before extending to the lowered floors in back, Bardot offers a sensory experience not unfamiliar from many witnessed during a recent trip to Lyon, but gussied up in casino dollars and the name Michael Mina the feel is at the same time very “Vegas,” meant in the most complimentary ‘high-on-style’ sort of way.

Not exactly as refined as the eponymous space at Bellagio, but a far better experience than Mina’s money-grab meat-market at Mandalay Bay, Bardot Brasserie features the culinary talents of Chef Josh Smith and with high quality product sourcing treated classically, plus an occasional touch of whimsy, the presentation of each dish is almost as attractive as it is delicious, each of sixteen plates at the very least on par with any in The Valley while a few approached the level of legendary.

Beginning with a brisk glass of rose, an unlimited option available to those with more tolerance than I, and then partaking in a bottomless cup of coffee from LAMill it was with carte blanche deference to Chef Smith that the meal began and although I remain underwhelmed by the oft-raved canele as compared to those served elsewhere both the kougin amann and complimentary baguette are extremely well crafted, the same to be said of croissants that form the base of benedicts and crusty country bread.

In a way starting lightly, at least as much as is possible when presenting unctuous duck liver and a quartet of artisan meats, it was additionally to a platter of fresh fruit alongside a frozen Greek yogurt that the table was treated and yet as good as the cup of buckwheat donuts were they simply couldn’t hold a candle to the miniature loaf of ‘everything’ brioche served next to lightly smoked salmon, not to mention chive infused mascarpone that one-upped the stuff from Philadelphia by several creamy degrees.

Next offered a ramekin of French Onion soup that offers a great degree of beefy complexity without all the salt that often serves only to off-set any semblance of balance, it was next a slow roll-out of seven savories that landed upon the table, the Hunter’s Waffle and King Crab Crepe every bit as good now as they were during my first visit while the Quiche, Omelet, and two offerings of beef spoke to high quality products cooked with attention to technique and tradition, the the Bearnaise and yolk-soaked short rib’s heft augmented nicely by perfectly sauteed kale.

Rounding out savories with the dinner-only Lobster Thermidor thanks to the efforts of Assistant GM Nathan Grates who coordinated the meal, suffice it to say that although the richness of the crustacean in cream and liquor was a bit much at the end of such a tasting not one bite of it was returned to the kitchen, the same to be said of rippling waves of silky whipped potatoes.

Never one to skimp on dessert, or in the case of Bardot Brasserie’s brunch a few sweets listed as entrees, it was perhaps an overestimation of remaining stomach space that saw the kitchen send forth two decadent trios; the 702’s best French Toast baked golden over a custard soaked center alongside a $16 Nutella Sticky Bun that justified its price both in taste as well as portion while the triple-chocolate Macaron was thankfully far lighter than suggested by its appearance

FIVE STARS: Leaving Bouchon, db, and the view-exploiting tourist trappings of Mon Ami Gabi in the rearview mere moments after opening, Bardot has quickly emerged alongside Yardbird as one of the Nation’s very best brunches, the skills of Josh Smith broadly displayed across a wide range of plates within a beautiful room benefited by truly outstanding service.

RECOMMENDED: French Toast, Smoked Salmon, King Crab Crepe, Foie Gras Parfait, Maine Lobster Thermidor.

AVOID: Always a stickler for French pastry the canele still lacks that perfect crunch to custard ratio, though by Las Vegas standards it is probably the best in town.

TIP: Bottomless Rose service is available during brunch each week for $20 per person while several cocktails, spirits, and wines by the glass or bottle are offered at a wide range of prices.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

www.michaelmina.net/restaurants/las-vegas/bardot-brasserie

Posted in Bardot, Bardot Brasserie, Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Crab, Croissant, Dessert, Foie, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation, Waffles

October 10, 2015
9:14 AM
by: Uhockey

Glaze Doughnuts, Las Vegas NV

Glaze Doughnuts

Strawberry Shortcake

Raspberry Jam

Maple Glazed

Maple Bacon Glazed

Chocolate Raised

Red Velvet Cake

Cinnamon Roll

Apple Fritter

Officially opening its doors on Saturday at 5am after a week of unannounced playdates for those happening to stop by, it was just after 9am that a visit was paid to Glaze Donuts, the small shop apparently “seeing a rush” earlier that had depleted all but the Red Velvet cake doughnuts, though several yeasted versions remained.

Owned by a second generation doughnut maker, the hand-crafted bases created by his father in Texas, Glaze features three tiers of fried dough ranging from $1 Classics to $2.25 Fancy selections and reportedly making each in small batches in order to ensure freshness it is thus far mostly classics that compose the glass cases, some whimsical toppings aside.

Offering 15% off and free donut holes to those attending opening day it was after perusing the remaining options and chatting with the doughnut shop’s daughter that a total of eight options were selected, one made-to-order while three were still warm from the fryer, first bites of the raspberry filled pocket making a delightful mess as natural jam loaded with seeds and sweetness poured forth onto the wax paper beneath it.

Waiting on the Strawberry Shortcake for a few minutes as Glaze makes the extra effort to slice and fill them a la minut in order to avoid sogginess, it is unfortunate that the whipped cream used is such low quality as to mar the quality of the fresh berries, a little stiffer cream likely to allow them to not only be stored in cases but also to simply taste less overwhelmed by sugar.

Admittedly impressed by the base, a more traditional yeast ring than the spongecake at Pink Box or supple Brioche at O-Face, Glaze eats somewhere between the texture of Krispy Kreme and Dunkin’ and with glazes trending sweeter than some the best bites were of the rich dark chocolate and the maple studded with bacon, the plain maple requested by a friend unfortunately too sweet, almost to the point of cloying.

Tiger Tails sold-out and Bear Claws not available it was next in a ‘cinnamon roll’ that $2.25 was invested, the texture not particularly different from that of the simple rings but the flavor proving absolutely excellent with light notes of spice and interior rings visibly glistening with a layer of melting butter.

Modestly impressed by the soft red cake with a good bit of cocoa that represented the only available non-yeasted ring that morning it was finally into the fritter that teeth were sunk and finding almost no crunch to the exterior with an oily, limp interior that was at least pleasantly studded with cinnamon and apples it was exactly one more bite that was taken before discarding the rest, yet another sub-par fritter in a city where such things are far too common and not much of an impetus to pass the far superior ACE Donuts on the corner of West Tropicana and South Fort Apache just a few miles up the road.

THREE STARS: Using phrases like “Small Batch” as if to justify prices that compare to those at O-Face or Pink Box without the high quality base or housemade jams of the former or unique offerings of the latter Glaze Doughtnuts is more-or-less just another doughnut shop in Las Vegas, a place worth visiting if you’re in the area but not one worth going out of the way for.

RECOMMENDED: Cinnamon Roll, Raspberry Filled.

AVOID: Apple Fritter, Maple Glazed.

TIP: 5a-4p 7 days a week, also offering Kolaches and a few savory options that may be worth a try.

http://www.glazedoughnutslv.com

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Glaze Doughnuts, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

October 9, 2015
6:11 PM
by: Uhockey

Glutton [2,] Las Vegas NV

Glutton

Iced Tea

Spicy Pork Rinds

Brandade Rangoon – Salt Cod, Garlic, Cream Cheese, Honey

Wood Fired Eggplant Caponata – Goat Cheese Toast, Balsamic Reduction

Guanciale Flatbread – Taleggio Cheese, Grilled Radicchio, Fennel Pesto

Shaved Brussel Sprouts – Kale, Dill, Fennel, Parmesan, Tahini Vinaigrette

Japanese Street Corn – Miso Butter, Furikake, Chives

Prime Flank Steak – Mushroom Fondue, Blue Cheese Relish

Beet Salad – Whipped Goat Cheese, Pistachios, Chervil, Frisee

Cavatelli & Short Rib – Wild Mushrooms, Truffle Mousse

Butternut Squash Agnolotti – Celery Root Puree, Crisp Potato, Shaved Black Truffle

Brown Butter Gnocchi – Pork Cheek, Soy, Sage, Pine Nut Gremolata

Wood Roasted Chicken – Taso Ham & Pickled Pepper Stuffing, Bourbon Sauce

Turkey & Guanciale Meatballs – Tomato Piquillo Sauce, Soft Parmesan Polenta

Caramel Corn Profiteroles – Salted Caramel, Popcorn Icecream, Peanuts

Churros & Hot Chocolate – Cinnamon Sugar Churros, Spiced Hot Chocolate, Marshmallow

Maple & Mascarpone Cheesecake – Walnut Curst, Blueberry, Preserved Lemon

Caramel Apple Fritters

More than a little impressed by brunch at Glutton shortly after the Saturday-Sunday menu was launched, it was with four friends that dinner was planned in the small dining room off Carson Avenue this past Friday, Chefs Bradley Manchester and Joseph Kudrak given carte blanche to serve as they like with the exception of a few requests.

Admittedly a bit of a misnomer in terms of name and signage, the small-plates portions and delicacy of the food not really prone to bursting belts or making one feel too-full-to-walk, Glutton represents the vision of a Chef who turned away from the confines of Casino kitchens in order to follow his heart and with a menu riffing on comfort food classics reinvented with interesting ingredients it was in seventeen plates that appetites were invested, all but one succeeding in its premise while several were amongst the very best in class.

Small in space and high in style, the wood tables atop cement floors and open kitchen beneath exposed ceilings following a path traveled by many hip spots in cities across the United States, the pride of Glutton is found in a wood burning oven used in many of the restaurant’s preparations, and updating the menu far more quickly than many of its East-of-Strip brethren it was in the now familiar pig-skins that the evening got started, only one item to follow a repeat from just a few months prior while some were just introduced that night.

Playing to my ears in terms of soundtrack while sending out plates in rounds that never once led to the table being overwhelmed, it was on the heels of a hearty caponata that the evening’s first “wow” moment occured, the delicate taste of creamed salt cod packed into wonton wrappers absolutely delicious with just a kiss of sweetness while the follow-up flatbread was unfortunately less balanced, the raddichio a bit too bitter when paired to the crust’s blister as both pork and pesto were mostly lost in the mix.

Quickly regaining traction with two salads that showed not only the quality of Glutton’s produce, but also the skill of Manchester and team for reinvigorating tired trends, suffice it to say that beets amidst goat cheese and pistachios were every bit as boldly flavored as they were beautiful while the shaved sprouts and ‘superfood’ found new depths of flavor when tinged with dill and the unexpected aromatics of toasted sesame seeds.

Progressing on a trajectory of flavors that grew bolder by rounds the two items presented next comprised the last of the menu’s small-plates, and although the flank steak beneath mushrooms and blue cheese was almost too rich to be enjoyed past more than a few bites it was a sidedish of corn that had the whole table swooning, each roasted kernel glistening with butter while the Japanese accents contributed volumes of umami and just the slightest hint of spice.

A bit saddened to see the brown butter gnocchi finally removed from the menu despite being a hit from day one, it was at the gratuity of Chef Manchester that the dish made one last appearance alongside two new pastas for round five, and although both the springy Cavatelli and Butternut Squash pockets grounded in celery root were absolutely flawless they still could not match the complex flavors of tender potato dumplings tinged in soy beneath supple pork cheek, pine nuts, and sage.

Taking a well calculated risk with poultry in a final pair of savories, suffice it to say that Manchester and Kudrak are not afraid to use one the bold flavors of swine to augment something less rich and although some may say “why bother?” using turkey to craft meatballs if they are only to be blended with guanciale the results were, in fact, outstanding amidst a bowl of creamy polenta, the pepper stuffed roulade no less enthralling with smoky notes finding their foil in a sauce of sweet bourbon.

Again a bit sad to see the rice pudding arancini axed from the menu it was with a ‘one of each’ finale of desserts that the meal would end and although the newly launched brunch-only caramel apple fritters could have benefited from a bit higher center-to-surface-area to circumvent some oiliness both the cheesecake and churros were reference standard in their execution, the signature profiteroles with flavors of Cracker Jack still undoubtedly Sin City’s very best.

FOUR STARS: Willing to take chances while other restaurants seem content to sit back and rely on celebrity marketing or familiarity to push their brand anyone interested in food would be well served to stop by Glutton in order to see what Manchester and his team are doing, the results not quite perfect yet perhaps all the better for it from a kitchen that shows no signs of stopping…or even slowing down to take a breath.

RECOMMENDED: Brandade Rangoon, Shaved Brussel Sprouts, Japanese Street Corn, Cavatelli & Short Rib, Caramel Corn Profiteroles.

AVOID: Guanciale Flatbread was simply too bitter for my palate while the fritters are a work in progress.

TIP: Offering different menus for dinner, weekday lunch, and weekend brunch those planning a visit are encouraged to peruse the up-to-date online menus while daily specials are often announced via Social Media.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.gluttonlv.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Glutton, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Tasting Menu, Truffle

October 9, 2015
1:09 PM
by: Uhockey

Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina, Las Vegas NV

Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina

Beso

Cacahuate

Oreja

Carrot Cake

Guava Cheese Turnover

Tres Leches

Cheese Cornbread

Continuing to weave a path through Las Vegas’ ethnic pastry shops it was just after 4:30pm that a stop was made at West Charleston’s Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina, the pastries confirmed to all be made in house by a Spanish speaking colleague but the service as disheveled as the shop itself, a small market with all sorts of novelty items at the left while the bakery and kitchen comprise the other half, no labels found on any of the goods and the ladies behind the counter busy chatting and making themselves coffee while offering the bare minimum of help.

Thankfully accustomed to some of the items, though further research afterward was necessary to determine their proper names, it was with $9 even exchanged for eight items that goods were bagged before making way to the parking lot, a replacement slice of carrot cake requested when the middle-aged woman decided to spin and flip the plastic clamshell container within the bag.

Bordering on racist in their behavior to my presence after watching the staff of Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina greet parties both before and after with warm smiles and plenty of help, it was with pictures taken that first bites of the turnover showed the unexpectedly sour cream cheese to complete overwhelm the bright red layer of guava, a distinctly different off-putting flavor marring the 2-for-1 “Peanut and Cream” Cacahuates with dough so dry that two small bites left the mouth completely parched for saliva.

More successful with a block of cornbread that saw fresh cheese enliven the otherwise sweet and toothsome base, and likewise with the familiar Oreja that riffed on a palmier or crispy elephant ear, it was again in pronounced dryness that the granulated sugar Beso did dwell, the half moistened by cream at the very least edible while the other was left for rats or airborn fowl.

Hoping that cakes would at least offer a textural upgrade on the pastries it was finally in two of a half-dozen options that plastic spoon was plunged, and although the carrot cake was serviceable if not memorable the tres leches was actually an excellent representation of the milk-soaked classic, the jam helping to offset a top sweet like fondant while the white cake layers were separated by lightly whipped ribbons of cream and an additional layer of guava.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: Setting aside issues of service that really did strike me as more than just disinterested or rude the bargain basement prices at Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina simply aren’t enough to justify the general low quality of the product in general, not with better locations just a few miles up the road.

RECOMMENDED: Tres Leches, Oreja.

AVOID: Cacahuates, Beso.

TIP: Tucked far back in a strip mall behind The Chicken Basket, Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina is not exactly visible from the road, an approach from the West requiring a U-Turn while those coming from the East will not be able to see the doors due to The Chicken Basket.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.yellowpages.com/las-vegas-nv/mip/panaderia-y-pasteria-latina-15261378

Posted in Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Panaderia Y Pasteleria Latina

October 3, 2015
8:07 PM
by: Uhockey

Spago, Las Vegas NV

Spago

Indian Notion – Bombay East Gin, Pimm’s, Lime Juice, Cucumber Basil Syrup, Ginger Ale

Trampled Rose – Bulleit Rye, Leopold Cranberry Liqueur, Lime Juice, Five Spice Syrup, Bitters

Baguette, Wheat, Rosemary, Cranberry Walnut, Gruyere and Dijon Bread

Corn Dashi Custard with Osetra Caviar, Bonito Flake, Lime Zest and Beausoleil Oyster with Yuzu Kosho

Uni and Sushi Rice with Soy Ceviche Sauce and Chive

Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi with Fennel, Daikon, Green Apple, Sea Salt / Chilled Maine Lobster Salad with Hearts of Palm, Avocado, Grapefruit, Asian Pear

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Basil Aioli, Haricot Vert, Micro Arugula, Aged Balsamic with Tomato Water and Basil Oil

Farmers Market White Corn Soup with Cipollini Onion, Cornbread, Cherry Tomatoes, Basil

White Truffle Semolina Pudding with Egg Yolk

Black Truffle Gnocchi with Tomato Sauce, Smoked Burrata, Sorrel Greens

Surf & Turf – Pan Roasted Alaskan Halibut, Summer Squash, Haricot Vert, Cherry Tomato, Basil Oil, Fried Squash Blossom / Snake River Farms Rib Cap, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Bacon, Apple Chutney, Whole Grain Mustard, Sauteed Spinach

Caramel Cheesecake – Praline Powder, Brownie, Butter Pecan Ice Cream

Chocolate Passion Cake – Whipped Chocolate Ganache, Chocolate Crumb, Passion Fruit Sorbet

Warm Apple Crisp – Oatmeal Crisp, Vanilla Ice Cream

Orange Beignets – Vanilla Sauce, Grapefruit Curd, Tangerine Gelato

Dark Chocolate Souffle – Whipped crème Fraiche, Hazelnut Ice Cream

Assorted Cookies – Chocolate Chip, White Chocolate Macadamia, Walnut Blondie, Pistachio Butter Cookie

Still holding the original Spago as one of those seminal fine dining experiences, a family meal at lunch in 2008 at that time one of the more refined with both service and food showing the sort of quality not found near my Northwest Ohio home, it was finally on the invite of a friend that dinner was served in the Las Vegas location, a nine course and fourteen plate feast showing similarly skilled waitstaff and Chef Eric Klein to be one of the city’s most under-discussed talents in the kitchen.

Admitting up front that although the ingredients served to us were of the same peerless quality as those offered to the rest of the room, it was in to a carte blanche tasting of small-plates that our table was treated with a few crafted ‘a la minuit’ while the majority at least bore some resemblance to the sizable appetizers and entrees offered on the proper menu.

Particularly impressed by the herbal cocktail at CUT a week prior it was with a similarly infused Indian Notion that the meal commenced, and with Klein now offering his bread at the Downtown Summerlin Farmers Market the rumors of one of the most delicious complimentary offerings in Las Vegas immediately put me on notice that a stop would soon be imminent, the fruit and nut slices as well as the cheese and mustard rolls each amongst the city’s very best.

Constrained in time, at least a little, due to a concert beginning at nine it was with a slower-than-usual roll out of lighter items that the tasting got underway, a strong start of off-menu corn custard crowned in caviar alongside a particularly buttery oyster opening the palate to three seafood-centered bites to follow, a freshly shucked urchin as perfect in taste as it was in presentation while the Maine lobster salad was a little lost in all the citrus, the two ribbons of tuna paired to apples and fennel a far more dynamic and balanced pair.

No doubt benefited by working with Puck’s purveyors and his own ties forged at the locals farmer’s markets, course four saw Klein sent forth a beautiful heirloom tomato salad deftly tinged with acid and yet as good as the composition was its flavor was quickly supplanted in my memory by the late-season corn soup, a rich and creamy potage finding levity in light froth with topnotes tinged in onions and herbs.

Showing off a bit in the penultimate pair of savories it was with a tableside shaving of black Perigord truffles followed by the season’s first from Alba that the meal marched on, the handmade gnocchi each dainty beneath smoked cheese while the semolina pudding somehow managed to outperform even the aforementioned soup, the egg yolk delivering the white truffle essence in an bold, slowly residing wave.

At this point turning away a forth (or 8th) round of bread for fear of falling asleep at the show, a makeshift “Surf & Turf” duo was sent forth from the kitchen, the beef quality readily apparent in a ruby red cut of rib cap while firm yet moist halibut compared favorably to any served in Sin City, the crispy squash blossom replicating the texture of skin an innovative bit of flare.

Never shy to request additional sweets, especially with the name Kamel Guechida attached to the carte, it was to much amusement that a second table was positioned in the aisle to accommodate each of a half-dozen offerings, only my personal distaste for passionfruit denying absolute delightment as everything from simple cookies and fruit crisp to an elegant souffle and cheesecake were perfectly executed, the orange curd infused beignets a ‘best-of-the-genre’ sort of dish that would have been just as good at any time of day.

FOUR STARS: Truly the “Grand Dame” of reinventing Las Vegas dining from AYCE Buffets and Prime Rib Specials to what it is today, the food and service at Spago in The Forum Shops remains destination worthy under the guidance of Eric Klein, my only gripe being a bit of ingredient redundancy in terms of the use of tomatoes as well as corn, obviously both seasonally appropriate and delicious but all-told a bit too pervasive with the appearance of one or the other in more than 50% of the savories served…a first world problem to say the least.

RECOMMENDED: Orange Beignets, White Truffle Semolina Pudding, Tomato Salad, Halibut.

AVOID: The Maine Lobster Salad got a bit lost in the citrus and Passion Fruit simply isn’t something I favor.

TIP: According the Chef Klein the format at Spago is soon to change, a proper tasting menu likely to be part of that evolution as well as a consistent menu unifying patio and dining room, though plans and timetable are far from finalized.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/9044

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Nevada, Pork, Souffle, Spago, Tasting Menu, Truffle

October 3, 2015
10:58 AM
by: Uhockey

GlutenZero Bakery, Las Vegas NV

GlutenZero Bakery

Samples – Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting, German Chocolate Cake, BBQ Sauce.

Cinnamon Roll

Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting and Walnuts

Brownie and Truffle Icing with Pecans

Lemon Curd Vanilla Cupcake

Not exactly involved in the diagnosis or management of Celiac Disease, but watching the trend of ‘gluten free’ everything take place from the perspective of a physician charged with assigning treatment to other autoimmune related conditions it was actually at the recommendation of a patient afflicted with both Hashimoto’s Thyroiditis and biopsy-proven Celiac that a stop at GlutenZero Bakery off Eastern Avenue was planned, owner Clarissa and her son each busy preparing the days goods but delightful and forthcoming just the same.

In part a work of passion but also one of self preservation, the owner and her daughter each suffering symptoms for years before their own diagnoses, GlutenZero is a certified gluten free space in a repurposed former gym and admitting a great deal of expense invested in opening the place without yet catching on with the community at large it was with several samples shared that Clarissa discussed her process and practice, everything made in house with top-tier ingredients and even the Lichtenstein-leaning paintings on the wall produced by her hands.

Almost as expansive in selections as the space itself is in size, the front chiller filled with several styles of carrot cake while the rest are encased in glass near the baking area in back, it was first in a small spoonful of fresh, fruity Barbeque sauce that opinions began to form and although the German Chocolate was a bit more dense than some may prefer the flavor spot-on, the same to be said of a citrusy lemon curd cupcake stuffed with stiffly whipped cream that thankfully trended far more light.

Unable to pass up cinnamon rolls that were being glazed fresh from the oven before my very eyes, suffice it to say that unlike the springy curls of Glutton or The Bagel Cafe the version at GlutenZero eats more like a yeasty poundcake not-so-different than Cinnabon, though a touch more toothsome and far less buttery in taste.

Modesty impressed to this point, though still not wowed, it was next into the carrot cake that fork-and-knife were plunged, the first bite flooding the palate with sweetness and spice while subsequent tastes revealed textural variance amidst a substantial amount of moistness, the frosting tangy with cream cheese beneath a light dusting of ground nuts.

Told by both the owner and my patient that the chocolate truffle brownie was perhaps the best in town it was admittedly with skepticism that such a claim was assessed, but setting aside all prejudices related to rumors and dietary restrictions it would honestly be difficult to name any as decadent, both the flourless chocolate base and creamy ball atop it on par with plated desserts at restaurants despite far less expense.

FOUR STARS: Doing very impressive things within the strict limitations of an entirely gluten free space one can only hope that there is a large enough audience to support GlutenZero Bakery through the early opening phases, I know I’ll be back sometime soon to check out the pies and give the brownie another taste.

RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake, Brownie and Truffle Icing with Pecans.

AVOID: German Chocolate Cake.

TIP: Open 10-7 M-Sat and 10-5 Sunday an early arrival may not be in one’s best interest as warm items emerge from the oven a little bit later, generally finished around noon.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://www.glutenzerobakery.com/

Posted in Breakfast, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, GlutenZero, GlutenZero Bakery, Las Vegas, Nevada

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