Endo Edibles

June 17, 2014
8:12 AM
by: Uhockey

b. patisserie [2,] San Francisco CA

b.patisserie

Blueberry Almond Peach Croissant

Cherry Apricot Kouign Amann

Chocolate Kouign Amann

Raspberry Bostock

Banana Chocolate Croissant

Four Barrel Americano

Rooted in French technique but possessing a particular flair for innovation with pastries whose basic forms are oft botched by lesser bakeshops it was once again on my final day in San Francisco that I made my way to b.patisserie and timing my whole morning to assure arrival as the doors unlocked my rewards were myriad – five perfect pastries with only one lacking residual heat from the oven. Taking a ’some for now and some for later’ approach which inevitably meant ‘most’ and ‘half the bostock,’ respectively, it should come as no surprise that despite my proclivity for croissants any morning at b. begins with kouign amann and taking it one step further I ended there as well – my first bite shattering a crystalline shell to yield still-liquid butter amidst tender stone fruits, my last rich with bitter-sweet ganache, and every one between as perfect as I remembered. Serving as segue between the Britton butter pastries it was to tender brioche tinged with almonds and raspberry jam that I next treated myself and setting some aside for the flight home I turned to croissants, b. again achieving the rare feat of crackling layers of pastry with cavernous separation even when packed with filling, the blend of stewed sour cherries amidst sweet apricots particularly impressive. Admittedly a fan, but having also visited a fair number of the ‘best’ food cities in America without neglecting a chance to visit praised bakeries in each, suffice it to say that item for item I’ve yet to find anyone in the country doing what Belinda Leong and her team at b.patisserie does day in and day out – a focus on perfection with eyes toward innovation that will keep me coming back again and again.

RECOMMENDED: Kouign Amann, Croissants, Four Barrel Coffee

AVOID: Making a mess of your shirt when you bite into a warm Kouign Amann to meet a gush of warm butter, chocolate, or fruit puree.

TIP: Although baking fresh throughout the day your safest bet is going early when everything is fresh…or waiting for new batches as you eat something else in the cute café.

Home

Posted in B.Patisserie, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Four Barrel, San Francisco, Vacation

June 17, 2014
7:59 AM
by: Uhockey

Fillmore Bakeshop, San Francisco CA

Fillmore Bakeshop

Almond Croissant

Chocolate Banana Bread Pudding

Cinnamon Brioche Swirl

Chocolate Chip and Almond Cookie

Raspberry and Mocha Macarons

Pecan Pie Bar

Slotted in the unenviable position of early breakfast on my last half-day in town I’d be lying if I claimed Fillmore Bakeshop to be anything more than a convenient curiosity en route from my hotel to b.patisserie yet with a friendly staff and comparatively low prices to the rest of San Francisco the small storefront actually managed a pair of delicious highs amidst otherwise mediocre offerings and air-pocketed macarons overloaded with sugary paste and far worse than those of many home cooks. Obviously an ‘everything to everyone’ sort of place with French pastry lined up along favorites from the American Kitchen it should probably come as no surprise that items warm from the kitchen would prove amongst Fillmore’s strongest and beginning there the croissant was a fairly good start with nature’s subtlety replacing sticky frangipane amidst crispy curls and moving on to the brioche bun a similar crunch was found, though this time giving way to a springy buttered core liberally dressed in cinnamon sugar. Saving cookies and ‘pie’ for later only to be underwhelmed in each it was last during my visit that my attention turned to the ‘still-too-hot-too-eat’ bread pudding and still my very favorite type of dessert no matter how ‘simple’ to prepare this particular version proved lovely – a big scoop fresh from the pan teaming with custard-laced old croissants, fresh bananas, and intense dark chocolate beneath a lightly toasted top.

RECOMMEND: Bread Pudding, Cinnamon Brioche Swirl

AVOID: Macarons, Cookies.

TIP: Bread pudding is available daily at opening with later day baking focusing on pies and cakes, though occasionally a second batch will be made. Flavors vary daily and reportedly included blueberry-peach and strawberry-banana most recently.

http://fillmorebakeshop.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, California, Croissant, Dessert, Fillmore Bakeshop, Food, Macaroon, San Francisco, Vacation

June 16, 2014
8:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Baker & Banker, San Francisco CA

Baker & Banker

Chateau de Malla Sauternes 1999

Bohemian Creamery Capriago & Boho Belle, dried fruit compote, Candied Ginger Bread

Stone Fruit Crisp, Brown Sugar Oatmeal Streusel, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Blueberry Bread Pudding, Crème Fraiche Sherbet, Buttermilk Caramel

Mr. Espresso French Press

Warm Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookie, Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Hot Fudge

XXX – Triple Dark Chocolate Layer Cake with Devil’s Food, Cheese Cake, and Flourless

Having missed out on the highly praised but short-lived brunch service from the Wife & Husband team of Lori Baker & Jeff Banker yet ever intrigued by the cozy space on Octavia Street it was through gluttonous eyes that I’d been stalking their online menu leading up to my visit to San Francisco and with daily updates dictated by seasonality and sustainability one could call June 16th my lucky day – a pair of new desserts joining the classics I’d coveted. Originally planning a ‘proper’ meal but giving this more thought as I walked up from the Mission it would be mere moments before my designated time that I arrived and surprisingly met by Chef Baker upon entry a seat was soon procured – the rest of the space filled in capacity as well as lively conversation while a small staff including the chefs themselves tended to guests’ needs. Largely brasserie in feel with rustic touches adding warmth it would not be long before my lovely young waitress arrived with a menu and after pretending to peruse I let my intentions be known – a wide smile and “sounds fantastic” the appropriate response to an order consisting solely of wine, cheese, coffee, and desserts. Obviously amused by my order and apparently taking bets regarding my ability to finish as a sniffed the small glass of fragrant Sauternes it was in a duet of local cheeses plus housemade accoutrements that the night began and with both cuts quite generous I sampled each slowly until the ‘real’ show commenced – a first serve ace arriving in bubbling pluots, peaches, and plums beneath buttery crumbs and slowly melting vanilla. Preferring a progression pairing fruits with wine and coffee with cocoa it was in the second sweet course that I held the highest expectations and having heard rumor of the team’s breakfast bread pudding I was not let down when the tender brioche presented almost supersaturated with custard beneath a golden crown as tangy ice cream worked overtime to keep sweetness in check, the end result something akin to a molten blueberry muffin and therefore an inspired textural segue to the reference-standard cast iron cookie that threw caution to the wind regarding sweetness and proved all the better for it. At this point sipping coffee and conversing with the bemused couple beside me it was just past nine o’clock when Chefs Baker & Banker together arrived to put their signature on the table and stacked high with a quenelle of whip cowering in its dark shadow the only thing sinful about the “XXX” was that it signified the end of a great night I’d put off for far too long.

RECOMMENDED: Dessert, particularly the bread pudding.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: Unbeknownst to me, in addition to the online menu which is updated daily, Baker & Banker also offers a $45 3-course set menu each night – a veritable steal considering the ingredients, portions, and quality of the restaurant.

http://www.bakerandbanker.com/

Posted in Baker & Banker, Baker and Banker, Bread Pudding, California, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, San Francisco, Vacation

June 16, 2014
6:00 PM
by: Uhockey

Locanda, San Francisco CA

Locanda

Grilled Pizza Bianca

Grilled Pizza Bianca with house mortadella and pickled ramps

Rigatoni alla Carbonara – Guanciale, Tully Doici Egg, Pecorino, Black Pepper

Pancetta-Wrapped Guinea Hen Leg – White Polenta, Grilled Turnips

Flavorosa Pluot Almond Torta – Blueberry Swirl Buffala Gelato, Nebbiolo Plum Sauce

Admittedly sampling the Cal-Italian scene heavily on most of my trips to The Bay Area and having found greatness to be more consistent here than elsewhere in the States it was the largely the Roman style of cuisine that originally piqued my interest in Locanda and after several intriguing afternoon sessions at the conference my Monday double-feature dinner would take me back to the Mission where always beckon but the early-summer menu could not be ignored. Open just fifteen minutes when I arrived and as yet unfilled it was in the warm sun of the front window that I opted to sit and although the long, narrow space was amped up with unnecessary music the room never grew too loud – a serene effect unlike that of Delfina, Cotagna, or A16 despite the high ceilings and substantial wood. Seemingly a bit more of a ‘locals’ place than other highly praised places of the ilk it would not be long after seating that my menu was delivered and chatting up the charming server about several indecisions an order was placed – her recommendations matching my predispositions letter for letter and leaving me in wait as I grazed on glistening pillows of warm bread with a second board soon arriving draped in nutty peppered pork invigorated by bright pickled ramps. Already impressed by the charcuterie it was within moments of my finishing the mortadella that my al dente primi arrived and although pre-mixed in the kitchen with yolk already beginning to thicken the quality of the guanciale could not be ignore, a small portion going a long way and leaving ample room for the substantial secondi of force-meat stuffed leg beneath crisp pork atop toothsome polenta sopping up the bird’s juices. Never one to skimp on sweets but in this rare case with eyes on my appetite’s future it was between a duo of selections that I debated and again turning tableside for recommendations my assumption proved true, a rich almond and cornmeal cake as soft as pudding arriving five minutes later with slight grassy notes from the gelato proving a deft foil to sweet stone fruits.

RECOMMENDED: Apparently a famous dish frequent to the menu with seasonal variants the Guinea Hen should not be missed.

AVOID: Even had the pasta not been underportioned for the price I contest that a proper carbonara should be mixed tableside – preferably by the diner.

TIP: Reservations seemed unnecessary at first but by the time I left at 6:40 every seat was filled…even on a Monday.

http://www.locandasf.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, Locanda, Pizza, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation

June 16, 2014
12:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Kin Khao, San Francisco CA

Kin Khao

Thai Iced Tea

Thai Iced Coffee

Pretty Hot Wings – Man Pla Fish Sauce, Garlic Marinade, Tamarind, Sriracha Glaze

Fried Quail with Chili Jam and Sticky Rice

Khao Yum Kai Dao – Fried Duck Eggs over Rice, Chili Jam, Peanuts, Shallots, Mint, Cilantro

Black Rice Pudding – Warm coconut, burnt coconut sugar caramel, salty coconut cream, puffed rice + peanut + sesame praline

Owned by Pim Techamuanvivit and reportedly offering authentic tastes of cuisine from her native Thailand prepared from the sustainable farms of San Francisco it was only after a security guard of the Parc 55 Hotel showed me the way that I finally located Kin Khao and with the restaurant nearly empty during an early Monday lunch it was to my choice of tables that I was soon seated, the blogger-turned-restaurateur mostly walking the room and tending to beau David Kinch while a fledgling staff offered up a menu substantially shortened from that offered at night. Modern yet pleasant in design with wood and white dominating the décor as a small kitchen tinkered and clinked just out of sight it was perhaps five minutes before the afternoon’s sole server arrived at my side and having already noted the missing mushroom jar I inquired to its availability only to be denied, a pair of lunch specials offered along with eight other savories from which I selected three along with the menu’s lone sweet. Stating up front that both the lunch menu and he himself were ‘new’ it was with an error that my waiter first brought Thai Iced Tea in place of the coconut tinged cold brew I’d requested and although bright with tamarind a few sips was enough, the creamy java far better fitting my palate as well as the opening volley of three funky wings themselves quite hefty in the orange Indian aromatic amidst a sauce of acid and spice. Explaining that I was really in no hurry as the meal marched on it was next in the daily special of fried quail that I partook and although quite crispy the flavor itself lacked, a touch of Pim’s chili jam enlivening things a bit while slightly sweet rice was a filler par for the course. Moving onward to one of five items under the section labeled “eats” it was with admitted indecision that I selected between the Khao Mun Gai and Khao Yum Kai Dao but eventually opting for crispy duck eggs over the chef-recommended ‘chicken fat fried rice’ I can only assume I made the right choice, the runny yolks acting to meld a multitude of complex flavors while bold textures arrived in each bite. At this point admittedly eavesdropping on the conversation of the doubly Michelin Starred chef just two seats away as he chatted with a friend about the ballgame they were in town to attend it was just under an hour and ten minutes after I sat down that my final plate arrived and served steaming from the kitchen though I cannot attest to just how ‘authentic’ any of it was I can definitively declare the rice pudding as excellent, an $8 portion big enough to share served to be dressed like an American sundae proving to be one of the top two or three takes on the dish I’ve experienced to date.

RECOMMENDED: Rice Pudding, Khao Yum Kai Dao.

AVOID: Fried Quail

TIP: Still new in their lunch service and featuring a far more extensive menu at night those looking to experience Kin Khao at its best may be better served to book a dinner reservation or call in advance to inquire about specific plates.

http://kinkhao.com/

Posted in California, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Kin Khao, San Francisco, Vacation

June 16, 2014
9:00 AM
by: Uhockey

Town’s End Restaurant and Bakery, San Francisco CA

Town’s End Restaurant and Bakery

Complimentary Pastry Basket – Peach and Banana Nut Muffins, Raisin Scone, Strawberry Jam

French Toast Sampler with Egg, Whole Wheat, Raisin Walnut Bread

Grilled Polenta

Exiting Bonjour Patisserie and turning right it was in the warm morning sun that I walked on Townsend towards the Embarcadero and literally reaching the end of Townsend I found my destination – the appropriately titled Town’s End. Clearly a clever bunch and offering a menu with plenty I figured to fancy it was to a surprisingly long, multiple-leveled dining room that I arrived and with only a few patrons present amidst a sea of white tablecloths I was given my choice of seats, a cozy two-top toward the back but overlooking the front my eventual choice. Oft cited for their complimentary basket of miniature pastries to start it was within a matter of seconds that a quartet in three flavors arrived but with only the peach muffin trumping a typical hotel’s continental options I felt a little underwhelmed – a trend only to continue as proper plates arrived. Slow but smiling in service, a leisurely place to linger for some, it was after nearly twenty-five minutes that my order landed on the table and with a cheery “enjoy” from my waitress I tried my best – the polenta underportioned for the price but nicely prepared while homemade breads dipped in batter came off as eggy and dry – a combination done no favors by the lackluster ‘syrup’ that only further made three different breads taste no better than that from Wonder.

RECOMMENDED: Peach Muffin

AVOID: French Toast.

TIP: For those in a hurry there is a small bakery counter up front, the mini-muffins at 40-cents seemingly a safe option for those on the run.

http://www.townsendrb.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, California, Food, French Toast, San Francisco, Town’s End, Town’s End Restaurant and Bakery, Vacation

June 16, 2014
7:48 AM
by: Uhockey

Bonjour Patisserie, San Francisco CA

Bonjour Patisserie

Almond Croissant

Bostock

Blueberry Financier

Canele

Chocolate and Coffee Éclair

Selected for early morning pastry due to its SoMA location combined with the fact that several of my San Francisco favorites are closed on Monday it was just after the break of day that I walked into Bonjour Patisserie and although a locally-owned business nothing about the décor or still service could shake the corporate feel of the Adobe-adjacent space. Small in size and still stocking the shelves as I entered it was presumably the owner and baker that I soon met and eyeing me suspiciously without even a hello as I perused the pastries a ‘can I help you?’ eventually emerged – three items for now with two taken to go my eventual order. Still impersonal as goods were packed and stared versus glared at as I snapped a few photos it was first in the croissant that I partook and although slightly over-sweetened the laminated layers gave way with good break to wispy insides perfumed with light frangipane, but not overly so. Moving next to more time-sensitive selections the sizeable canele would prove admirable in its springy custard despite a slightly soft shell while an espresso glazed éclair with rich chocolate cream showed Bonjour’s command of choux. At this point packing bags for a proper breakfast with more tasting to come at a conference break it was again without words until I said my “thanks” that I passed the counter and as much as I dislike passing praise onto such an inhospitable place I must say that both the toothsome financier and buttery bostock proved excellent nearly four hours later, though the later did make quite the mess of another Moscone Center table.

RECOMMENDED: Bostock and Financier.

AVOID: Decent, but trumped by several of San Francisco’s best, I’d pass on the canele and croissant unless focused solely on convenience.

TIP: Featuring soups and sandwiches later in the day along with some bagged grab-and-go options amidst an area somewhat devoid of better it came as no surprise that other patrons were obviously ‘regulars,’ yet even then service seemed strained to speak or smile – odd considering a name like Bonjour.

http://www.facebook.com/BonjourPatisserie

Posted in Bonjour Patisserie, Breakfast, California, Canele, Croissant, Dessert, Food, San Francisco, Vacation

June 15, 2014
8:25 PM
by: Uhockey

Hard Water, San Francisco CA

Hard Water

Oregon Pink Shrimp Hushpuppies – Lemon and Herb Mayonnaise

Stoneground Grits – Cabot Cheddar, Cultured Butter

Almond Flour Fried Chicken, Buttermilk Waffles, Pepper Jelly

Whiskey Kiss – Caramel Covered Marshmallow

Again pulling double duty to give due diligence to an ever expanding culinary ‘to-do’ list it was nearly two-hours after exiting Stone’s Throw that I cozied up to the center island of the wharf’s “Hard Water” and although more celebrated for the impressive bar than the tiny kitchen I must say the N’awlins inspired cuisine was ‘none too shabby’ neither. Undoubtedly a swanky spot for booze amongst the Bay area’s elite but a bit empty In the waning hours of Father’s Day 2014 it was with wide eyes followed by wide-angle lens that I gazed on the wall of whiskey and although not my spirit of choice the collection deserves credit, as did the low pressure bartenders who seemed just as happy chat while I sipped water as they were to pour a $100+ shot. Somewhat limited, or perhaps more so ‘well-culled,’ in its culinary offerings it was with much debate that I perused the menu of sustenance and bearing in mind the long day past it was in a quartet of items I partook – six ping-pong balls of fried cornmeal dense with sweet shrimp and a shallow bowl of exceeding creamy grits kicking things off. At this point happily sated but still with room to spare it was only after a thirty minute delay due to several late arrivals that my final course was delivered and as much as I’d have preferred the re-toasted waffle fresh from an iron the salt-cured fried bird left little room to quibble as crispy seasoned skin shattered to tooth giving way to supple flesh dripping with juices I greedily mopped up with waffles slathered in surprising subtle jam…an adjective in no way applicable to the tiny two-dollar and fifty cent feather-light caramel tinged with booze.

RECOMMENDED: Fried Chicken, Grits.

AVOID: With only one dessert and the pricey ‘kiss’ dessert is better sought elsewhere while the waffle could be improved if prepped to order.

TIP: One of the few spots open in the area and unfortunately sharing a commode with others in the building there were several panhandlers in the area that night and although largely innocuous one is best to be mindful when walking in isolated areas en route to the restroom where several were camped out.

http://hardwaterbar.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Hard Water, San Francisco, Vacation, Waffles

June 15, 2014
5:53 PM
by: Uhockey

Stone’s Throw, San Francisco CA

Stone’s Throw

Crispy Tomato Cream Wafers – Crushed Fava Bean Dip

Puffed Potato and Eggs – Cauliflower Mousse, Chives, Crispy Chicken Skin

Duck Pate and Mousse – French’s Mustard, Cornichons, Warm Soft Pretzels

Warm Octopus & Okonomiyaki Pancake – Bacon Dashi, Spicy Turnips, Marinated Mushrooms

Crispy 38 North Duck Breast & Duck Taquito – Roasted Fennel, Braised Rhubarb, Pistachio Butter

Chocolate Bananas Foster – Warm Brown Sugar Soaked Bananas, Frozen Chocolate Covered Banana Milkshake, Chocolate Brownies, Bubbling Walnut-Caramel

Peanut Butter and Jelly Donuts – Brioche Beignets, Peanut Butter, Milk Chocolate, Grape Jelly

Again planning a double-duty dinner it was mere moments before 5:30 that I arrived to find the doors of Jason Kirmse and Cy Hia’s Stone’s Throw already unlocked and although having missed out on Fat Angel during previous Bay Area dining adventures I entered with high expectations – two of my Saison servers having described Chef Jason Halverson’s cuisine as “so delicious, so fun” with desserts “like a fat kid’s paradise.” Deceptively large despite its tree-shaded façade on Hyde Street with an up-front bar, open kitchen in back, plus hip yet exceedingly well trained staff at every turn it was to a monthly-changing menu that I soon found myself challenged and with nearly every dish something I’d consider ordering elsewhere hard decisions were made – a half-dozen plates increased +1 by a gift from the kitchen without a single disappointing bite in the bunch. Divided largely into bites, appetizers, larger plates, and sweets it was first the gift of light tomato chips and creamed broad beans that I began and moving next to things more substantial both the molten centered puffs and silky liver would prove oddly reminiscent of simpler things refined – the former harkening a “loaded” baked potato while the later, slathered on a warm pretzel, invoked memories of Big Mac…but in a good way. Clearly leaning on concepts of ethnic comforts it was next in tender Pacific octopus grilled and set adjacent to a savory pancake served with condiments that I found my favorite savory of the evening and only slightly less impressed by rosy duck melded to seasonal vegetables by smoky nut butter it was onto desserts I progressed – that “fat kid” comment immediately making sense as a box at the bottom of the menu requested customer’s childhood favorites. At this point warned twice by my waiter that I had overordered it was at my insistence that a duo of desserts arrived and beginning with four pillowy beignets finding their flavor inspired by many kids’ lunch the light cocoa cream proved an admirable segue to the NOLA tilted brownie sundae – the flambéed sauce poured tableside to melt a frozen cylinder into a rich pudding far more interesting than anything I experienced at Brennan’s.

RECOMMENDED: Puffed Potatoes are a mainstay – order them – while the rest is subject to change. If you see the Okonomiyaki I’d strongly suggest it…and dessert(s)

AVOID: N/A

TIP: Taking inspiration from patrons for dessert the restaurant offers a free visit to concepts selected…I also have it on good word that brunch is fantastic and whenever I’m next in town I fully plan to disprove my server’s assertion that he has never seen anyone finish the butter-fried pancakes on their own.

http://stonesthrowsf.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Octopus, Pancakes, San Francisco, Stone’s Throw, Vacation

June 15, 2014
11:56 AM
by: Uhockey

R&G Lounge, San Francisco CA

R&G Lounge

Hot Tea

Salt and Pepper Crab

Egg Custard with Mussels

Peking Duck

Walnut Shrimp

Cold Plate – Ham, Vegetarian Goose

Cold Plate – Borurbon Squab

Frequently featured in articles referencing the “Best of the Bay” but always falling short of my personal “short list” as I awaited additional diners with whom I could share it was finally a Father’s Day lunch with a former colleague and her family that brought me to R&G Lounge and with both service and cuisine that pleased three immigrants from mainland China, two Midwesterners, and even a child I must say the restaurant lived up to the press. Truly a ‘destination’ restaurant for Asian families and all the more so for a holiday lunch it was with a bit of luck that I landed the reservation for a six-top with only two week’s notice and quickly seated in a room beneath the streets of Chinatown upon our 11am arrival it was clear expeditious ordering would be to our benefit – a seven plate meal served in five courses with clockwork timing while surrounding tables sat in wait. Beginning with tea and focusing largely on signature plates plus a few of my friends’ family favorites it was in R&G’s fabled fried crab that we began and with light batter laden with spice overlying the crustacean’s sweet flesh everyone at the table smiled, a similar effect generated by the cold-plate trio whose ham and ‘goose’ wowed while the boozy whole-bird found more favor with my friends than it did with me. Still licking fingers and picking at the crab’s crisp carapace it would not be long before more shellfish arrived and this time trending sweet it would pose a difficult decision whether to focus on snappy shrimp with caramelized walnuts or mussel studded egg pudding, particularly bearing in mind that yet to come – a crispy whole duck with plenty of bao that was carved in the kitchen but still piping hot and rich with fat and flavor to round out a truly memorable meal in setting, service, friendship, and food.

RECOMMENDED: Salt and Pepper Crab, Walnut Prawns, Mussel Custard.

AVOID: Squab was far too boozy for me and although apparently a traditional dish even my friend commented that this was a more potent preparation than most.

TIP: Dessert consists of only ice cream so those in need of something sweet may look elsewhere – Golden Gate Bakery is nearby as are several other traditional Asian alternatives…plus the rest of the San Francisco’s remarkable patisseries, bakeries, and scoop shops.

http://rnglounge.com/

Posted in California, Crab, Food, Pork, R&G Lounge, San Francisco, Vacation

June 15, 2014
9:35 AM
by: Uhockey

Flour & Co, San Francisco CA

Flour & Co

Cinnamon Pecan Coffee Cake

Sticky Bun with Pecan-Walnut Caramel

Savory Cornbread – Corn, Onions, Chives

Oatmeal Praline Cookie

Chocolate Chunk Cookie

French Toast Sandwich – Lightly Sweetened Cream Cheese, Raspberry Jam, Cinnamon Swirl

Carrot Cake – Pecans, Walnuts, Raisins, Pineapple, Cream Cheese Frosting

Moving on from Mymy it was a quick trip up Nob Hill to Flour & Co that again saw me fraught with temptation and with owner Emily Day hard at work in the kitchen while her delightful staff promised me “everything” was delicious I quickly succumbed to my whims – a seven item order serving in part as a continuation of breakfast with the rest saved for dessert after lunch. All natural and largely locally purveyed it was with a duo of items that my tasting began and although the toasty sandwich of housemade jam on fresh baked bread with a touch of cream cheese was lovely the carrot cake set a new standard – its moist crumb rife spice and so well packed with nuts, carrots, and dried fruit that one wondered if there was any filler or flour at all. Moving on to more after a Father’s Day lunch with friends at R&G it was with toothsome and herbaceous cornbread that I started and with the savory option showing equally impressive as prior items it was back to sweets I turned, the crisply rimmed cookies giving way to tender centers while toasty sugared pecans crowned dense coffee-cake and an very sticky brioche swirl.

RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake, Cornbread, French Toast Sandwich.

AVOID: While nothing was even remotely subpar bad there are simply better cookies and sticky buns to be had in the San Francisco when there is so much else to explore at Flour & Co.

TIP: Featuring Free Wi-Fi and several prepped-to-order selections with seating for no more than twenty an early arrival or off-peak visit is recommended for those desiring to dine-in.

http://flourandco.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Cornbread, Dessert, Flour & Co, Flour and Co, Food, French Toast, San Francisco, Vacation

June 15, 2014
7:55 AM
by: Uhockey

Mymy, San Francisco CA

Mymy

Banana Blueberry Souffle Pancake – Vanilla Curd, Candied Walnut

Vanilla Sponge French Toast – Butterscotch Drizzle, Bananas, Strawberries, Blueberries

Featuring a surprisingly similar menu to breakfast on day one and interestingly located cattycorner to the awful Olea where I’d dined the year prior it was early Sunday morning when I entered mymy and seated quickly at the wallside counter a familiar order took shape. Small in size with a semi-open kitchen where a young Asian line cook worked diligently firing plate after plate as the small staff attended to each guest’s needs with a cheerful vibe it was seemingly seconds between dinging bells indicating ‘order up’ and starting with downy-soft pancakes sandwiching rich vanilla curd with decorative berry puree and candied nuts I swooned – a texture even lighter than those from Griddle Fresh with fruit flavors far more poignant enlivening every bite. Moving next to French toast but this time eschewing the boule it was next the “vanilla sponge” that greeted my palate and although slightly more bready than I’d have preferred at its core the caramelized crackle of the golden exterior proved excellent while butterscotch sauce and fresh berries rendered maple syrup irrelevant.

RECOMMENDED: Much like Griddle Fresh, you’re here for the pancakes.

AVOID: Arriving after 8:30 on weekends – limited seating and those prone to linger had already generated a thirty minute wait list when I exited just prior to 9am.

TIP: Working in extremely small quarters quirky modifications appear to be declined, my vegan/vegetarian neighbor at the counter opting to walk out when she could not be guaranteed no animal products would come into contact with her plate.

http://sanfrancisco.menupages.com/restaurants/mymy-coffee-shop/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Food, French Toast, My My, Mymy, Pancakes, San Francisco, Vacation

June 14, 2014
8:45 PM
by: Uhockey

A16, San Francisco CA

A16

Semolina Bread with Olive Oil

Wild Nettle Ricotta Gnocchi – Pioppini Mushroom, Garlic, Mushroom Brodo, Herbs, Caciocavallo

Trippa Napoletana – Onions, Tomato, Chiles, White Wine, Breadcrumbs

Margherita – Tomato, Mozzarella, Grana Padano, Basil, Olive Oil

Wood Fired Dry Peach Crostata – Buttermilk Sorbet

Chocolate Budino Tart – Sea Salt, Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Owned by the same team behind Michelin starred SPQR and located steps from the Presidio a late night bite at A16 with an old friend was set to cap Saturday night but with my pal suddenly called out of town on business I was instead left to fly solo – an early arrival due to a meal shorter than expected at Nico leaving me standing amidst a crowd of walk-ins as incompetent hostesses struggled to keep tabs on a growing ‘list.’ Originally offered a seat at the Chef’s counter only to have the suggestion soon rescinded it was not until nearly thirty-five minutes later that I was informed that the bar was ‘first come, first serve, full service’ and having watched seats come and go along with another long-delayed duo it would be ten minutes more before we each procured a seat – my new friends suddenly a silver lining allowing for me to over-order and share. Still jostled from behind as more potential patrons packed the front foyer it was from the bartender that plates would soon be ordered and although substantial delays persisted to the point of being gifted a complimentary plate of creamy gnocchi I have to say the food universally justified the hassles. Conceptually based in the cuisine of Campania it was with warm semolina bread and clean, fruity olive oil that the meal got started and with aforementioned gnocchi understatedly herbal and aromatic it was with course two that flavors began to ‘pop’ – the tender tripe fully embracing a sauce of acid and wine prior to a reference standard Margherita whose springy crust bubbled up in pecan wood char with just enough aged cheese to enliven hand-crushed tomatoes and fresh-pulled mozz. Again finding myself solo as bar-mates turned elsewhere for more drinks it was simply illogical to me to eschew dessert and after debating a seasonal favorite against a 10-year classic the only right answer was “both” – the wood-oven singed puff pastry lovely and light while the dark chocolate budino proved every bit deserving of its status on many “Best of the Bay” lists – a light kiss of salt serving to enliven the fruitiness of the oil and accentuate the subtle sweetness of an otherwise intense finale.

RECOMMENDED: Pizza, Tripe, Budino.

AVOID: Having spent so much time waiting and witnessing several walk-outs due to late-seated reservations I’d suggest avoiding Saturday nights, though perhaps my visit was an anomaly. Pastas additionally seemed to trend small considering the prices.

TIP: Yeah, the bar is first come, first serve, and full service even if they don’t tell you that up front…and although I’m sure they’d deny it those residing on the ‘wait list’ would be well served to check-in often as persons friendly with the staff seemed oddly capable of securing previously ‘unavailable’ seats up front shortly after walking in.

http://www.a16sf.com/

Posted in A16, Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, Pizza, San Francisco, Vacation

June 14, 2014
5:11 PM
by: Uhockey

Nico, San Francisco CA

Nico

Hearth Bread

Stone Fruit Colada – Rum, Coconut, Pineapple, Sage

Panisse – Squash

Duck Liver Pate – Asian Pear, Crouton

Potato – Egg, Porcini, Beaufort

Apricots, Pistachio Cake, Goat’s Milk Ice Cream

Port Poached Cherries, Brown Butter Cake, Yogurt Ice Cream

Salted Caramel

One of the hottest tickets in town and a reservation for which advanced planning is requisite given the restaurant’s small size it was to Pacific Heights’ Nico that I sat down for my first of two dinners on Saturday and featuring a well-culled menu of seasonal French small plates I was happy to find both service and cuisine befitting the praise. Tucked away on Sacramento Street and seating less than fifty amidst casual décor with a Plexiglas window affording full view of Chef Nicholas Delaroque’s gleaming kitchen it was mere moments after Nico unlocked its doors that I was welcomed to a cozy two-top and quickly perusing the menu of a man who honed his skills with Crenn and Kinch a five-course meal focused on Northern California’s glorious produce took shape. Clearly a kitchen already accustomed to serving at high volume and at times perhaps flowing a bit too fast it was with a slice of warm Manresa-esque bread and a lovely muddled-fruit cocktail that I began and moving next to a duo of appetizers the fried chickpeas with squash puree would prove light and crisp while terrine was coarse, rich, and complimented just enough to tame the expected mineral funk. Moving next to the night’s lone vegetarian entrée, a slightly overpriced $22 plate of creamy egg yolk melding crisp potatoes and tender mushrooms I was soon onward to dessert and with the clock ticking just past 6:30 my smile beamed bright, first at the intense sweetness of golden apricots over a toothsome cake seemingly made of nothing but ground pistachios and a bit of butter and then to a boozy mountain of cherries reined in by tangy ice cream and chunks of spongy cake, a duo from which I’d not be able to determine a favorite when asked by my server who soon delivered the check along with a buttery salted caramel and cheerful thanks for stopping in.

RECOMMENDED: Desserts were a highlight and a veritable steal at $8 while appetizers also shined at $6-$8 each.

AVIOID: Main courses, both mine and those at neighboring tables, seem to trend small for the price.

TIP: Online menus are described as representative of the restaurant’s cuisine and should be taken as such as not a single item from the website on June 14th was offered in house that day.

http://www.nicosf.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Nico, San Francisco, Vacation

June 14, 2014
2:55 PM
by: Uhockey

Tout Sweet Patisserie, San Francisco CA

Tout Sweet

Burnt Caramel and Sea Salt, Peanut Butter and Raspberry Jam Macaron

Nutella Sugar Bun with Almond Nougatine

St. Honore

Hazelnut Crumb Brioche Bread Pudding with Sea Salt, Ceylon Cinnamon, Vanilla Bean Custard

Chocolate Chunk Cookie

Brown Butter/Peanut/Cornflake Cookie

Preferring to indulge in actual food rather than Food Network programming I’d admittedly known nothing of “Top Chef – Just Dessert” winner Yigit Pura’s flagship patisserie inside the Union Square Macy’s until it was mentioned to me by the clerk at Humphry Slocombe and admittedly skeptical even after a leisurely stroll through several stores in the area I decided due diligence at least warranted a cursory glance…the resultant order of a seven confections largely a result of eye-catching design overlying childish whimsy despite a high-school aged staff that would have been far better suited peddling French fries than French pastry. Expectedly high in price given the prime real estate but equally high in quality with a focus on local organic product it came to me as no surprise that Chef Pura calls The Bay Area home and although I passed on seasonal fruit tarts to focus on standardizing personal favorites nearly every item on offer shined with jewelbox presentation – my first bites of beautiful macarons delivering a crisp break with flavors washing over the palate and slow to dissipate. Moving onward to things more hearty it was to a duo of decidedly American cookies that I turned and with crisp edges guarding soft centers a similar effect soon arrived warm from the kitchen in the form of buttery bread pudding harkening coffee cake in texture with a salty cinnamon tinge to the overlying streusel and vanilla bean caramel. Enjoying most of my selections as halves while saving the rest for later it was next to the atypical geometric St. Honore that I turned my attention and although slightly compromised by damp choux the custard and cream were both surprisingly restrained in sweetness and impressively light…neither of which qualities were particularly applicable to the brioche Nutella bun that also seemed a bit soggy but was so stuffed with decadent hazelnut spread that one would hardly notice.

RECOMMENDED: Macarons, Bread Pudding, Brown Butter/Peanut/Cornflake Cookie

AVOID: St. Honore and other filled items that may be more time sensitive.

TIP: Obviously popular due to its celebrity chef inside a high traffic environs while offering a salon-style respite from the shopping madness outside don’t be surprised to find all seats taken at Tout Sweet, occasionally not even by patisserie patrons – not only is the storefront small but persons lucky enough to find a chair are likely to linger while the juvenile staff struggles to service the counter let alone bus or track tables.

http://www.toutsweetsf.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, California, Dessert, Food, Macaroon, San Francisco, Tout Sweet, Tout Sweet Patisserie, Vacation

June 14, 2014
10:12 AM
by: Uhockey

Fog City, San Francisco CA

Fog City

Warm Old Fashioned Doughnuts – Sugar Dusted

Aaron’s Buttermilk Biscuits – Strawberry Compote

Fog City Hot Brown – Roasted Heritage Turkey, Country Sourdough, Mornay Sauce, Nueskie’s Bacon, Roma Tomato

Brioche French Toast – Yerena Farm Strawberries, Maple Whipped Cream, Shaved Almonds

With the meeting adjourned for lunch and several hours of digestion aided by Moscone Center coffee now behind me it was up the Embarcadero that I again marched and this time traveling farther north than usual it was just past one o’clock when I sat down at Fog City, a gregarious middle-aged gentleman with a sweaty brow providing Michelin-quality service to myself as well as patrons both inside and out during a nearly 75-minute brunch. Seemingly understaffed at the front-of-the-house while a team of five manned the open fire oven and stoves in the kitchen it was with one famous dish on my mind that I entered Fog City but featuring a recently renovated brunch menu promising several personal favorites my order instead unfolded in three parts, an opening duo of cinnamon-sugar brioche donuts a touch too bready while flaky golden biscuits varnished in sugar and butter proved exemplary. Moving onward to the original object of my desire it was after a nearly thirty minute delay that Fog City’s riff on the Louisville Hot Brown arrived and gussied up with artisan touches as only The Bay Area can do suffice it to say that it puts J. Graham’s original to shame – a bubbling pot of creamy Mornay smothering tangy sourdough and smoked turkey with a crown of crisp bacon and lightly griddled tomatoes added straight from the pan. Clearly unwilling to pass on dessert it was with a small menu of frozen custards, crullers, and shortcake that I was presented and although the later featured the strawberry finale I desired so did the brunch menu French Toast, a buttery trio of triangles so saturated with maple-infused custard that the interior was nearly liquid beneath a crunchy golden coat ready to be dressed in even more maple, whipped cream, and lightly reduced berries that made me wonder not only why more has not been said of this dish but why anyone would sell themselves short with the shortcake.

RECOMMENDED: Hot Brown, French Toast, Biscuits.

AVOID: Brioche Donuts.

TIP: An unassuming space low-set in a small park with ocean views to the left reservations are recommended but with full-service available at the restaurant’s triangular central bar walk-ins are equally welcome – just be aware that the Hot-Brown is not offered at dinner while weekend brunch and weekday lunch also differ substantially.

Fog City Restaurant SF

Posted in Breakfast, California, Dessert, Fog City, Food, French Toast, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation

June 14, 2014
8:15 AM
by: Uhockey

Three Babes Bakeshop, San Francisco CA

Three Babes Bakeshop

Salty Honey Walnut

Chocolate Pecan with Graham Cracker Crust

Making my way from the Ferry Plaza Marketplace en route back to the hotel for a shower before the conference I quickly debated joining the surprisingly short line at Roli Roti but glancing towards the water I did a very ‘guy-like’ double-take at the sight of Three Babes…Bakeshop. Another Mission-based business but lacking a true brick-and-mortar “Three Babes” is actually a kickstarter funded concept from two young women from central California and although prices may run as high as $40 for a single pie the team’s artisan work has undeniably earned a cult following and substantial accolades – the combination finding them sold out of one option while I nabbed the last slice of Chocolate Pecan just after 8:30am. Verbose in words like all-natural, organic, and sustainable that are meaningful to many but no marker for ‘taste’ it was to the $12 toll of two slices that I partook in Anna and Lenore’s baked goods and although the Chocolate Pecan was indeed delicious with flavors harkening a ‘Turtle’ candy it could not hold a candle to the signature Salty Honey Walnut – the buttery crust still flaky and crisp beneath an avalanche of toasty walnuts whose soft bitters found balance in local honey flecked with bits of sea salt – a truly remarkable pie tiptoeing the line between sweet and savory while wowing in every bite.

RECOMMENDED: Salty Honey Walnut

AVOID: Arriving after noon when, I’ve been told, more than half of the pies are often sold out.

TIP: …is it just me, or would a warm slice of the Salty Honey Walnut be perfect if made a la mode with a scoop of Harvey Milk and Honey Graham from Humphry Slocombe inside? Not really a tip…or is it?

http://threebabesbakeshop.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Dessert, Food, San Francisco, Three Babes Bakeshop, Vacation

June 14, 2014
8:00 AM
by: Uhockey

Humphry Slocombe at Ferry Plaza, San Francisco CA

Humphry Slocombe

Secret Breakfast with Bourbon Caramel

Butter by Moonlight / Harvey Milk and Honey Graham

Still abuzz from the Kings double-OT Stanley Cup victory and a landmark meal at Saison it was after a long morning jog along the Embarcadero that I stopped to refuel at the Ferry Plaza Market and although samples of fruit and cheese were plentiful it was pie and ice cream that I craved – the latter found first in the new storefront of an old favorite. Twice visited in The Mission but featuring new digs in a white tile space formerly inhabited by Ciao Bella it was moments before 8am that the hinged wall unfolded and stepping quickly into line smiles flourished – a few jokes about ice cream for breakfast and several samples leading to a $10 two-cup order. Beginning first with two new-to-me novelties it was in the exclusive brown butter and blueberry swirl of Butter by Moonlight that I first partook and taken bite for bite with the “Milk” Ice Cream studded with housemade honey grahams I continued to marvel at Slocombe’s velvety texture while restrained sweetness allowed natural flavors to shine. Moving onward to my second dish it was more my willingness to indulge like a child than any need for hair of the dog that led to my ‘double shot’ of bourbon and with a name like Secret Breakfast the bourbon milk and cvornflake composition proved even more memorable when doused in boozy, hot caramel…a breakfast of champions indeed.

RECOMMENDED: Sampling everything and ordering whatever tastes best.

AVOID: Arriving too late in the day as popular flavors do sell out.

TIP: Opening at 8:00am on Saturday and at 11:00am the rest of the week lines can run as long as those at Blue Bottle during peak hours, those with work (or in my case conference) time constraints should plan accordingly.

http://www.humphryslocombe.com/www.humphryslocombe.com/Home.html

Posted in Breakfast, California, Dessert, Food, Humphry Slocombe, Humphry Slocombe at Ferry Plaza, Ice Cream, San Francisco, Vacation

June 13, 2014
8:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Saison [3,] San Francisco CA

Saison

Krug Grand Cuvee

Tea – Herbs from our garden and their flora, Meyer lemon

White Sturgeon Caviar – Shell torn sturgeon belly cured and smoked on kelp, gelee of the grilled bones, Spring citrus

Beignets of bitter vegetables and anchovy, milk thistle, soy and citrus

Arteis and Co Brut 1999

Diamond Turbot – fresh shiso, chrysanthemum pickled in dry mustard, mountain yam, sea bean, Meyer lemon sea salt, white soy infused with oils from the fish’s head, nori, skin

Untitled – Gin, Juniper, Verjus, egg white, Absinthe, Chamomile Tea Syrup, White Ale

Trout – Smoked in the wood oven, tea, pickled daikon, anise hyssop

First of the season Corn – Pudding, dried tomatoes, trout roe

Sea Urchin Toast – Butter soaked Tartine toast, river vegetables and avocado, uni, uni bottarga

Abalone – Roasted over the embers, sauce of the liver and capers

Surf Clam – Herbal broth, bitters, dropwood

Sea Cucumber – The ribs grilled in the flora and stuffed with scallop farce, salted broth

Sea Cucumber – Chicharon, grilled kelp and bonito dusted with egg yolk fish sauce

Goddess Melon Soup – Crackling of pork, salted shiso

Ling Cod – Roasted over the coals, sauce of rangpur lime and yogurt, head

Untitled – 5 Island Rum, Jamaican Rum, Honey Syrup, Fresh Lime Juice, Tiki Bitters, Blanc de Blanc (not photographed)

Brassicas – Dried over the fire

Sartarelli Tralivio

Parker House Rolls

Duck Toffee – Scented with caramelized white chocolate, milk, bread, beer

Beef – Grilled alongside its bones in the fire, cultured buckwheat, bitter herbs

1987 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon

Pickles and a bouillion of beef bones – eggplant in brown sugar and soy, carrots in turmeric, turnips in nuka, salted squash blossom, beets in sauerkraut, daikon and burdock, cucumber

Cheese – Bellwether Farms Sheeps’ Milk Ricotta with honey, Sofia, Pecorino, Rimrocker, Winnimere, Grilled Wheat Bread, Peach Soda with elderflower musk

Krug sorbet

Rhubarb – Jasmine and kumquat, sorrel granite

Buckwheat tea and canele, milk chocolate

Take Home – orange brioche, canele

Landing atop my list of best meals for 2013 a third visit to Saison was a given during my most recent trip to San Francisco and although I’d have never imagined the circumstances when I booked the reservation nearly three months prior I’m relatively certain the Friday the 13th visit will linger as one of the most memorable nights in my life – a nearly four hour experience of superlative food, beverage, and service unfolding while the Los Angeles Kings captured their second Stanley Cup. Admittedly known to Chef Skenes as well as Maitre D’ Matthew Mako and welcomed at the door like an old friend it was to the restaurant’s longer Discovery Menu that I was treated and with 20+ courses comprised of a cornucopia of exotic ingredients manipulated only as much as necessary to maximize both flavor and texture not a single bite would prove less than ambitious and, perhaps more importantly, delicious. Undeniably a tasting menu rooted in logical progression yet at the same time often hinting at things to come or flavors just passed it would be nearly impossible to single out a dish as the meal’s strongest and as such focusing on one ‘segment’ that exemplified everything from sourcing to technique one would be best served to witness the urchin, abalone, surf clam, and sea cucumber quartet – each plate a stirring tribute to its ingredients but the succession a veritable work of art with brine, bitter, smoke, and sweet all delivered in harmony with texture moving deftly from crunchy to creamy and back. As much an event as a meal I’ve said before that Saison is the best restaurant in the country and although other factors may indeed be tinting my most recent experience I am just as comfortable now suggesting that both the food and the service better than ever, a proclamation leaving me to wonder just how much better it can get…and eager to return and find out.

RECOMMENDED: Discovery Menu

AVOID: N/A

TIP: Amongst the nation’s most expensive restaurants and now upping the ante with a $498 Saturday Chef’s Tasting where Joshua Skenes is set to explore his newest concepts potential diners should do their homework before visiting Saison – simply put, this is not cuisine for ‘everyone’ and persons with more timid palates may find themselves challenged by several of the courses served throughout the night.

http://saisonsf.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Saison, San Francisco, Tasting Menu, Vacation

June 13, 2014
2:58 PM
by: Uhockey

Chile Pies (Sweet & Savory), San Francisco CA

Chile Pies (Sweet & Savory)

Green Chile Apple with Three Twins Vanilla Ice Cream

Mexican Chocolate Pecan

With desserts a no-go during lunch at Mozzeria I was left with the enviable decision of whether to return to Craftsman & Wolves or to try something new and as much as the former was sure to wow it was to pie that I turned, the beguiling flavors of Chile Pies having caught my eye earlier in the day as I walked south from Thorough Bread to Knead. Unbeknownst to me one of three ‘Chile’ spaces from Chef Trevor Logan the subtitled ‘Sweet & Savory’ is a decidedly tight space and with a menu spanning from burritos, stews, and salads to a single cake alongside several pies it was in the clerk that I placed my trust; the restaurant’s signature take on apple pie an obvious recommendation while her second pick was precisely what I’d have selected had I not ventured to ask. Opting for the first slice warmed and served a la mode with the other taken to go it was with some skepticism that I approached the green chile apple slice and although appreciably fruit forward there was no mistaking the fiery finish, a bit of balance provided by the creamy chill of Three Twins organic vanilla but not something I’d opt for again given my limited appreciation for such spice. At this point taking to the streets in order to attend the opening lectures of my conference it would be some four hours later before I indulged in my second slice and although cut far smaller than the Apple in order to accommodate the carry-out container the results were far more befitting my palate as hefty notes of cinnamon mingled with toasted peanuts, rich chocolate, and just a touch of chili powder atop a golden butter crust plenty flaky enough to make a proper mess of the Moscone Center table.

RECOMMENDED: Mexican Chocolate Pecan

AVOID: While the Green Chile Apple proved a bit too spicy for my palate I’m sure others more fond of such flavors would find the experience far more palatable.

TIP: With only enough seating for perhaps ten those looking for a more comfortable dine-in experience would be well served to check out the original Chile Pies location, particularly considering the strong reviews of their recently launched weekend brunch.

http://www.greenchilekitchen.com

Posted in California, Chile Pies, Chile Pies (Sweet & Savory), Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, San Francisco, Three Twins, Vacation