Making a daytrip to Antwerp, the drive smooth once one finally makes it out of the early morning tree-sap of Brussels traffic, it was just past 10h00 when an entrance was made at Desire de Lille Restaurant and Tea Room, the historic favorite of tourists unfortunately living up to recent rumors that it only exists as a shell of its former self with an overpriced menu and even the audacity to charge those dining in a restroom fee.
Known for its Dutch Specialties including Pancakes, Waffles and fried balls of Dough plus Ice Cream and Sundaes, those opting to dine at Desire de Lille during morning hours are likely to find the sizable space mostly empty and with nearly one-on-one service offered as the cleaning crew tended to their daily duties it was after only a few minutes that an order was decided, a double espresso with ice arriving alongside a small waffle bite with a pair of items from the kitchen only a few moments away.
Not especially friendly for a tourist spot, the young server English fluent but clearly preoccupied with chatting up kitchen staff while intermittently checking his phone, Coffee at Desire de Lille is better than average for Belgium while the €9.90 Waffle with Cherries and Chantilly was not as crisp or sizable as many, the powdered sugar-topped Smoutebollen a far better bargain for just €4.90 though not particularly interesting past the first two or three.
Tiny but well regarded by locals, the location at Rue du Bailli 4 a simple storefront with just a few square meters to stand, Teddy L is perhaps the least “English Friendly” patisserie in the city of Brussels and yet with a perpetual smile on the young clerk’s face the in-store experience could not have been more pleasant, a total of five items showing strong evidence that old-world craftsmanship will rarely fail.
Certainly not sporting the glitz of Wittamer nor the scope of Le Saint Aulaye, Teddy L features the craftsmanship of Boulanger Teddy Lowy and with bargain prices that seem downright strange in the setting of such quality the temptation to order one of everything was only resisted due to a day full of eating, those traveling in a group strongly recommended to bring about €20 to try nearly a dozen different pastries.
Not the glamorous sort of jewels sold by modern shops, the goods all golden with the focus on texture and taste as opposed to pictures for Instagram, a tasting of Teddy L should undoubtedly begin with laminated viennoiserie including both the Pain de Chocolat and Almond Croissant, each with buttery arches enveloping just the right amount of filling with the dark chocolate pockets particularly likely to please.
Taking no short cuts in constructing the rest of the goods, an almond cake using only a small amount of Frangipane to bind together butter, eggs, sugar and nuts, an equally impressive bite was found in lightly charred apples atop puff pastry, a “save the best for last” sort of situation found when teeth were plunged into what appeared to be a simple Walnut Pie that was, in fact, bolstered by top-notes of coffee.
Pineapple, Passion Fruit, Meringue, Sage Ice Cream, Pate de Choux
Macaron Cart – Chocolate-Ginger, Saffron, Speculoos, Roses, Olive Oil, White Chocolate and Yuzu
Walnut Pie
Toqued by Christophe Hardiquest with a lovely location in the pricy outskirts of Brussels, Bon Bon has been slowly building on concept of “boundless exploration, sharing and complicity” ever since opening, the accolades arriving from Michelin, Gault & Millau and Grand Tables du Monde with each passing season as the restaurant continues to evolve its experience into something more than just ‘fine dining.’
Considered by many to be the best restaurant in Brussels, the day of this meal a truly daunting one with a workers strike causing a nearly two-hour traffic delay en route, it was nearly forty-five minutes after 19h00 that arrival was finally made at the white brick building on Avenue de Tervueren, the staff completely understanding of the situation and as pleasant as they were accommodating with a table in full view of the open kitchen still ready in waiting.
Offering several tasting menus in addition to a la carte selections, the spontaneous discovery a nine-course experience flanked on each end with no less than a dozen canapes, amuses, mignardises, candies and breads it was with little indecision that the decision was made to partake in anything Chef Hardiquest and his team felt like creating, the next two-hundred minutes well invested with steady nearly every bite a resounding success and very few delays in pacing.
Reportedly upping their style in recent years, small touches like a selection of elegant cutlery for meats and purse stools styled as sheep not seen by a friend who dined there one year ago, the tasting at Bon Bon began with a flurry of small bites including a nutty ham and fried fritters as well as savory marshmallows and meringue, the most memorable taste a briny croquette of Sardine and Herring as well as the liquid nitrogen charged Radish with spicy Smoked Cream and Peas.
Serving two styles of bread, the leaflets of lavash served from a folder with pureed eggplant while toothsome Sourdough comes with soft house-blended butter in four forms, the start of the tasting is announced by delivery of a “toolkit” containing everything from Chopsticks and Tweezers to polished forks and knives, the Chef’s signature oysters soon to arrive with each perfectly trimmed circle’s brine punctuated by vodka, cucumbers and cream.
A progressive tasting if there ever was one, the lighter flavors leading effortlessly into red meats with a vegetable-centered focus that looks seasonally at the surrounding lands, courses such as the Carpaccio of Langoustine were beautiful expressions of taste, color and texture, the White Asparagus somehow striking a balance between Anchovy and Rhubarb while a particularly poignant potage of garlic was reined in by smoky pork Chantilly.
Larger in portions than the standard upscale tasting, the longest menu potentially overwhelming those of modest appetites – or at least those unable to resist the bread – Cod Loin served with a sidecar of Brandade fritters delivered perhaps the most invigorating dish of the night with several beans and peas beneath Nasturtium and Basil, tender potato dumplings arriving next so light that they threatened to raise off the plate against gravity with a base of Black Olive and Garlic Flower crown.
Told that a “bonus” course would be served as “thanks for visiting from so far away,” the menu’s original climax of Smoked Wild Pigeon with Shallot Mousseline was another stunning offering before another signature of “Burned” Beef, Sweet Onions, Artichokes and Parsley.
Falling short on dessert, not for lack of trying but because Passion Fruit’s cloying flavor is rarely something that lends to the balance seen in Hardiquest’s savory plates, it was with good fortune that Bon Bon’s elegant Macaron Cart was there to immediately rectify the situation, options including Olive Oil, Chocolate-Ginger, Saffron, Speculoos, Roses and White Chocolate with Yuzu each topped with a dollop of cream or fruit plus garnishes before ending the night with a bittersweet finale of Black Walnut Pie.
Founded by Mary Delluc in 1919 and quickly becoming a favorite of royals, sophisticates, philosophers and the bourgeois as a result of location as well as passion for creativity and craft, there may be no Chocolatier more revered than Mary in the history of Belgium, the “Certified Royal Warrant Holder of Belgium” still branded on her boxes in the year 2016.
Truly an intriguing story, the chocolates and confections still not sold in shops outside Belgium with the title of Purveyor to the Royal House of Belgium twice renewed as recently as 1994, Mary Chocolates are now sold in a handful of stores ranging from the Capital to Bruges and Antwerp and following the same artisan traditions now as in history the collection has undoubtedly grown, though classic flavors and smooth textures still predominate.
Largely focused on flat pralines with Truffles and elongated “langues de chat” offered in some variety as well, each Mary store features art deco style and a notable degree of femininity, the prices a touch higher than other nearby shops but undoubtedly justified by the ingredient quality and each confection’s purity.
Custom tailored to serve its well-heeled clientele while also well suited to the tourist, Mary’s staff is without doubt one of the most friendly in a city full of competition and whether one is interested in just a few pieces or a box made to their liking the discourse is likely to cover a wide range of recommendations, €15 netting a total of sixteen items running the gamut from single origin tablets to rich ganache, creamy caramel and a genre-redefining marzipan pieces.
Brussels Waffle with Speculoos Ice Cream and Chantilly
Liege Waffle with Chocolate and Chantilly
Biscuits – Speculoos, Sable, Chocolate Sable, Pure Butter and Frangipane, Pistachio Sable, Patience, Bernardin, Raisin, Palmier, Feuilletine
Biscuits – Sugar Brioche, Cherry, Royale, Pain a la Grecque, Dark Chocolate Speculoos, Milk Chocolate Speculoos, Vanilla Speculoos
Located on Rue du Beurre since 1829 and known best for creating the “Spectaculoos” Speculoos found in everything from biscuits and spreads to chocolate, cheesecake and ice cream throughout Belgium, a visit to Maison Dandoy was actually comprised of two distinct stops on Monday afternoon in Brussels, the first at the shop with an upstairs Tea Room on Rue Charles Buls with a follow-up at the original where more treats were consumed.
Perhaps Brussels’ most famous Artisan, their shops now spreading to Antwerp, Bruges and more, Maison Dandoy’s story is told by way of the website or, in the case of the Tea Room, within the menu and although cookies remain the shops mainstay there is no doubt that the made-to-order waffles have gained their own following, both Liege and Brussels style turned out hot from fresh batter while several styles of shakes, sundaes and beverages round out the well-culled but substantial menu offerings.
Still raining at this point, the decision to dine in rather than taking items to the street carrying a surcharge while the restaurant also refuses to serve water from the tap, it was moments after seating that the lone server greeted each diner and quickly deciding to go all-in with one of each waffle the kitchen is equally expeditious, the Brussels version arriving crisp and perfect with slowly melting housemade icecream and whipped topping while the Liege version was hot, sticky and well pocketed with melting sugar crystals topped in dark chocolate and even more Chantilly.
Settling the tab, surely more pricey than places like Waffle Factory, Le Funambule or other grab n’ gos but still inexpensive for such a snack, it was downstairs to the shop that browsing continued, a young lady at the counter telling me a more comprehensive collection was available at the original location and thus leading to a short walk.
At this point around 16h00, dinner plans at 19h30, it was to warm smiles that entry was made to the rustic looking shop on Rue au Beurre and greeted by a pair of clerks with samples a taste of the Pain a la Grecque was quick to sell customers hook, line and sinker, the rest of the cookies and confections no less compelling and charged by weight likely to lead most to an order exceeding €20.
With nowhere to sit in the narrow shop and atelier it was with three bags packed that options were taken to the car and opting to enjoy the items in conjunction with chocolates back at the hotel one would be hard pressed to name any cookie that was less than excellent the sables like crispy dollops of butter while brioche, Palmiers and Feuilletine reached high standards set by the French, each style of Speculoos as good as the last with a best bite found in the original topped by a tablet of Laurent Gerbaud’s Dark Chocolate.
Fresh King Crab Bisque with Cold Coffee Cream / Gazpacho of Red Beet and Cherry, Smoked Eels, Belgian Goat Cheese
Spring Pea Cheesecake, Cannelloni of Yellow Squash, Garlic Flowers, Pomelo and Pomegranate Cream
Crab Brain Chawanmushi / King Crab Salad with Avocado, Cream of Black Sesame
36-Month Aged Parmigianino-style Swiss, Potato and Corn Cream, Green Asparagus, Jamon Serrano
Smoked Hamachi, Daikon, Squid, Fermented Soy
Squid on the Embers, Eggplant Mille-feuille, Miso, Cubed Daikon, Dashi
Breast of Bresse Chicken, Green Herbs Emulsion, Cream of Squash, Hay-smoked Pommes Puree
Fire roasted Cherries, Honey-Rosemary Ice Cream
Strawberries and Rhurbarb Tartlette, Cream of Lemon, Rose Leaves
Cherry Gateaux Basque, Black Cherries
Ushered into a new era by Chef David Martin, a man of considerable talent with another more casual restaurant called Bozar downtown, La Paix has received considerable praise from in-the-know gourmands ever since evolving from a traditional Brasserie, and although several dishes from steak to offal are still readily available from the space dating to 1892 there is no doubt that Martin’s pursuit of “honest” cuisine is best experienced by way of the Chef’s Tasting Menu.
Aged in its appearance from the outside, those unaware most likely to simply see the corner as nothing more than another bar and brasserie, entry to La Paix speaks to the levity imparted in dishes with strong Asian influences and although Martin himself hails from Southern France originally the origami decorations, serviceware and even tables speak to an interest in things found East.
Offering several a la carte options, a lunch menu as well as several degustations, those interested in experiencing all La Paix has to offer are well advised to invest three hours into the 8-course “Menu Surprise” that sometimes comes straight from the carte but more often direct from the team of only six in the kitchen.
Not as bustling as other Michelin starred spots, the casual ambiance and higher prices seeing a total of six-tables filled at lunch, service at La Paix comes from a two-person front-of-house and given the skeleton crew the delays from the kitchen can occasionally be lengthy, though free WiFi, the open kitchen and a tank of 5-6kg King Crabs from Scandinavia provide for entertainment while freshly made bread with three hand-crafted butters continuously offer temptation between plates of food.
Starting with a duo of soup and salad, the bold gazpacho eating more like panna cotta than an actual potage, Martin makes his intent-to-wow known early on by way of the Fresh King Crab Bisque charged with a tableside ISI-shot of Cold Coffee Cream, spoonfuls offering juxtapositions in terms of taste, texture and temperature that continued to a brilliant opening act of Cheesecake comprised of soft goat cheese beneath a gel of Spring Peas with a warm stack of Yellow Squash that dances amongst citrus and Pomegranate cream.
Open only during weekdays, a large gourmet center driving business from across the way, course two continued to show-off the enormous crustaceans in the tank by way of a duo of Crab Brain Chawanmushi and chilled King Crab Salad, the hot custard perhaps the most delicate and flavorful ever experienced while the creamy Avocado expectedly paired well with the sweet meat and cream of Black Sesame.
Shaving “Swiss Aged 36-Months to resemble a Parmigianino” like a truffle for course three the hits continued with Potato and Corn Cream decorated in Green Asparagus and nutty ham, the follow-up of smoked Hamachi, snappy Squid and Fermented Soy with Daikon unfortunately not doing any favors to the fish’s texture while far better execution was experienced from a steak of Calamari straight off the embers with a cube of Daikon and Eggplant stack bathed in Dashi.
Continuing both light and seasonal for the final savory, a roulade of Bresse Chicken immensely juicy beneath crispy skin with green Herbs, Creamed Squash and smoky Pommes puree, there was a noted slowdown from the staff as the same young men responsible for savories transitioned to pastry, a simple bowl of two and a half stewed cherries taking nearly forty minutes to present with a small quenelle of Honey-Rosemary Ice Cream.
Putting together dessert two more expediently, the Strawberry-Rhurbarb Tartlette a concept that would be seen repeatedly at fine dining establishments over the course of the next six days, La Paix’s version did a nice job of highlighting the vegetable’s tartness through Citrus and Roses, the ‘mignardises’ actually the best of the sweets as Chef Martin offers each guest a slice of Cherry Gateaux Basque, his father’s favorite dessert showing that history still has its place at Rue Ropsey Chaudron 49.
Part of a slowly growing local Coffee culture sorely needed throughout Europe where Nescafe has inexplicably become the ‘standard,’ Or Roastery has now spawned three locations in Brussels, Gent and Etterbeek, the Rue Auguste Ortsstraat shop playing host to a Monday morning caffeination stop that also featured three of the Café’s Americanized experiments in baking.
Undoubtedly the most ‘hip’ spot seen during eight days in the city, the vibe downright Brooklyn or Portland right down to the décor and music, Or Espresso Bar is actually born from a roastery started as far back as 2001 and growing through the combination of education, hard work and passion the OR story reads much like that of its stateside brethren, the team going so far as to visit family farms in order to establish relationships while also assuring single-origin quality and exclusivity.
At this point a known entity in terms of wholesale while also running an Atelier not unlike La Colombe through which the team experiments and perfects their roasts, it was after some indecision that the choice was made to try the shop’s Single origin Ethiopian Beans by way of a double espresso over ice, and with a robust nuttiness that slowly dissipates to fruity notes the years of practice have undoubtedly yielded as superior product, the vacuum-packed beans by the bag tempting though passed up for fear of harassment when returning through US Customs.
Admittedly surprised by the bean, nothing of this ilk experienced during visits to France of Spain, one could not help but wonder whether baked goods could match the quality of the coffee and although admirable in its attempts to do something a bit different than the typical Brussels patisserie the three items ordered were only fair-to-middling, a toasted slice of Banana Bread not only dehydrated but excessively priced at €5 while the Carrot Cake and Pistachio Cherry Crumble were admittedly somewhat better…but at the same time nothing worth going out of the way for when taking into account the rest of the city’s great pastries.
A small storefront with table, patio and takeout options at Zuidstraat 73 in Brussels, Le Temps des Tartines falls somewhere in the middle of the city’s Boulangeries and Patisseries, a locals sort of place where the staff seems quick to become impatient with questions phrased in English while also charging extra on each item selected for indoor dining.
No doubt an impassioned concept, over a dozen breads joining a wide range of pastries, tarts, choux and viennoiserie, it was to a small queue that diners were greeted early Monday morning as rain continued falling, the majority of patrons seemingly known by name to the two women behind the counter with quickfire service limiting time for decision making, an eventual order of a half dozen items boxed or bagged and taken to the patio where the small awning provided shelter from the storm and a privileged vantage to dine while the city streets came to life with those headed to the start of their workweek.
Having already mentioned the substantial variety available at Le Temps des Tartines, any attempt to sample a wide breadth of the goods better suited for a group of four or more, first tastes of the Almond Croissant as well as the Pain au Chocolate showed each to be far lighter than average, the general lack of sugar welcomed as it allowed for subtlety to be noted though the lack of a crisp exterior was at the same time disappointing.
Moving onward to heavier selections, the folded pastry from Flanders definitely worthwhile as soft lamination found itself wrapped around cream and raisins, those desiring a traditional Éclair will likely be disappointed as these frosted versions are sliced lengthwise with custard filling as opposed to light pastry cream, a Speculoos dusted Cheesecake equally unexpected as the base was so sour that it was actually displeasing while the Pear and Frangipane Tart was a far more satisfying experience with soft fruit well balanced by a base both smooth and sweet.
Roasted Pig’s Trotter with Croquettes, Petite Salad, Tartare Sauce
Carbonnades et Frites
Housemade Tart Tatin with Vanilla Ice Cream and tableside flambee of Calvados
Speculoos Mousse with Whipped Cream
Slightly off the beaten path, a large façade on Rue des Pretres the only business within eyeshot, Au Sterkerlapatte seemed a perfect spot to experience Belgian Classics without being treated as the typical tourist and arriving just past 19h00 for Sunday dinner it would be difficult to imagine anything better from such a restaurant, the service literally one-on-one for the first hour while the food and decoration fully realized in the style of an old Brasserie.
No doubt a locals only sort of place, though English menus are available as new ownership clearly has an interest in expanding the restaurant’s appeal with a surprisingly active social media page, Au Sterkerlapatte features a menu decorated in regional specialties while a blackboard embraces seasonality amongst daily specials and although both beer and wine are well represented amongst the restaurant’s beverage options the decision to not imbibe was no problem at all, a bottle of tap water provided with ice on request along with a small bowl of olives and freshly made rolls with packets of chilled butter.
Sizable in its options, but well-focused in scope, the menu at Au Sterkerlapatte suggests several appetizers along with soups, salads as well as entrees and deciding that the best option would be to invest in two mains with sides, plus two desserts suffice it to say that the €47 tab provided more than enough food for sharing, or just a bit too much for solo dining.
Requesting one plate to start and the other to follow, “not a problem at all” considering the empty room, it was listening to classic rock including AC/DC and Pink Floyd that I waited perhaps twenty minutes to get started, course one featuring a whole bone-in Pig’s foot roasted until crisp beneath breadcrumbs, the interior full of rich meat and melted collagen while the potato croquettes and house tartare helped to offset at least a part of the fat and richness.
Unwilling to leave Belgium without tasting Carbonnades, the Beef stew a hallmark of the region that is interpreted differently from region to region depending on beer, Au Sterkerlapatte’s version is made with a local blonde ale whose name was unfamiliar, but lending light sours to the stewed meat with hops dissipating in the gravy the aroma greets diners from well over a meter’s distance, the flavor equally robust and well paired to fried potatoes that easily outpace those from several well-regarded local Friteries.
Making stocks, sauces, and even desserts in house – the latter something that most tourist spots outsource along with bread – there was no doubt that the Tart Tatin caught this diner’s eye even before he was seated, a weekend special of delicate Speculoos Mousse ordered in addition delicious in its own right but nonetheless lost in the spotlight of stewed apples and puffed pastry flamed tableside with Calvados beneath a slowly melting quenelle of Vanilla Ice Cream.
Perhaps the only thing more ‘famous’ about Belgium than Chocolate it seemed as though a trip to the country without sampling their famous twice-fried potatoes would be anything but complete, and having done a bit of digging to sort which of the many “Friteries” received the most praise four names rose to the top of the list in Brussels, the second a tight space near to many other restaurants and in the ultra competitive tourist district entitled Friterie Tabora.
Literally just a stall with a counter, the ‘dining area’ a 25cm Standing Room Only space where those entering are forced to squeeze by, Friterie Tabora is best taken as a grab n’ go establishment and although Sunday’s non-stop rain shortened the line substantially it was still to a small wait that customers were greeted around 17h00, the location and bargain-basement prices no-doubt part of the appeal as rude servers and substandard product leaves much to be desired.
Not the sort of place to do anything ‘above and beyond,’ the sauces all straight from commercial can or bottle, Fries at Tabora seem to be treated to a combination of both longer frying and shorter drying which leads to greasiness and softened textures, the pump-bottle “Bearnaise” nothing like handmade stuff with an odd sourness and too much thickener – fried meat fairing a bit better as the snacks are made-to-order, though neither the taste nor texture managed to match the standard set by either Café Georgette or Maison Antoine.
Perhaps the only thing more ‘famous’ about Belgium than Chocolate it seemed as though a trip to the country without sampling their famous twice-fried potatoes would be anything but complete, and having done a bit of digging to sort which of the many “Friteries” received the most praise four names rose to the top of the list in Brussels, the first literally a dedicated half-restaurant in the densely populated tourist district entitled Friterie du Café Georgette.
Apparently springing from a noon-to-midnight café located on Rue de la Fourche when owners realized the golden spuds were outselling all but beer at a 4:1 ratio, the Chip shop sits directly next to the café of the same name and with window service as opposed to waiters and waitresses the line moves very quickly, a particular perk with a large awning and limited seating to protect patrons from falling raindrops as the kitchen works in full view.
Offering a limited menu of fried snacks in addition to the twice-cooked frites it takes a little bit of French to navigate the Friterie’s hardboard menu, but with a helpful staff and several pictures plus low prices the ordering process is expedited via small counter and although cash-only the prices are low enough to do a little sampling, a three part order with one sauce tallying less than €9.
Waiting just moments, the line short as rain fell steady, Frites are unpacked from an airtight bag containing those already cooked once in oil and taking a quick dip in a second frier before being turned out to a drying rack for salting the process is really quite efficient, the resulting product featuring a crisp bite that gives way to fluffy insides on par with most hand-cut versions offered as ‘artisan’ stateside at approximately 1/3 the cost.
Not particularly fond of the House Sauce, a mix of ketchup and mayonnaise with spicing that teases of dill, it was with naked Frites lightly salted that bites of two additional items were interspersed and although the Croquette falls somewhat short of the high standard set at Noordzee thanks to a bit too much oiliness a Belgian specialty of fried sausage called “Frikandel” fares much better with a rich sapor beneath the extra-crisp casing.
Chocolate au Lait, Noix de Pecan Caramelisees Cookie
Double Chocolate, Chip and Chunk Cookie
Rocher Chocolat de Madagascar
Fraise et Rhubarb
Framboise et Citron
Caramel au Beurre Sale
Located on Avenue Jean Volders, the central spot amidst prime shopping a difficult space to park at almost all times, Chouconut is a relatively new entry into the Belgian dining scene and offering a menu almost exclusively comprised of its eponymous baked pastry the comparison to Éclairs & Gourmandises seems rather obvious, though by-and-large Chouconut comes up short in terms of price as well as quality.
Occupying what appears to be an old home, the kitchen small and the wiring so sketchy that the team managed to blow a fuse while mixing dough during my visit, options at Chouconut consist mainly of small orbs piped with a variety of fillings beneath cream or frosting, a small selection of cookies offering a bit of variety, though not particularly compelling.
No doubt a cozy place, the dining room featuring small tables and chic furniture with free WiFi encouraging patrons to stick around, it was after some deliberation that four choux-balls were selected along with two cookies and a lightly torched donut, the later interesting in that it did not necessarily seem ‘fried’ given its levity, an impressive task given the caramelized exterior and creamy custard filling.
Deciding to sample cookies next, the rims crisp but the center unfortunately a bit dried out, tastes of the small orbs ranging from €2.50-€3.00 proved a hit and miss experience, the Rocher Chocolate easily the best with pronounced cocoa tones plus a chocolate shell providing crispness while others saw the pastry quality somewhat compromised by dampness, the Salty Caramel faring better than those with cream and fruit components.
Having already paid visit to the Gare du Midi Market, plans intent on staying south of the city where a 20K race promised to further compromise Brussels’ already slow-moving traffic, it was to the original Uccle location of Eclairs & Gourmandises that the GPS was pointed and arriving just a few minutes after the 09h00 Sunday opening the elegant lineup of goods was every bit as tempting as rumors had suggested, the service far more English fluent than other local patisseries with a young man and woman both happy to help navigate a wide selection of items guaranteed to leave guests smiling.
Recently launching a second shop downtown, the prices and quality both making for something that seems very likely to find its place amongst tourists just as it has with locals, Eclairs & Gourmandises features clean lines that compliment the collection of choux-based elongated sweets as well as savories while a collection of small cakes and macarons appear every bit as tempting.
Offering a surprisingly wide variety of options, everything from shrimp or chicken to tropical fruits, nuts or pure chocolate used to fill the choux, choices at ‘E&G’ are the sort that at first seem to require careful deliberation, but in reality a small tasting of four items showed each to be so elegant in terms of taste and texture that the more likely fact is that simply closing one’s eyes and pointing would be likely to yield a winner, yet as great as eponymous items are the best bites were actually found in a €9 loaf that is large enough to be split amongst a group…though that is not saying sharing is ‘necessary.’
Well priced for the craftstmanship involved, each Éclair around €4 depending on if guests choose to eat in or take their selections to the streets, tasting began with two riffs on French classics, the Brest offering light hazelnut cream amidst the crisp yet smooth pastry while the Saint-Honore featured both cream and custard plus a crystallized sugar coated orb that was absolutely textbook with a crispy graham cracker sort of base.
Thoroughly impressed by first bites, the salty caramel adhering to an equally high standard with the filling striking a delicate balance of being soft and sticky without being runny, it was finally here that first bites were cut from the Cake Banane Spéculoos, and although the topping was indeed a beautiful flavor matching Belgium’s signature cookie with a light spread of the same it was actually the texture of the bread itself that sent tastebuds soaring, the mashed bananas at times falling into the background of spiced bread while other sections featured pockets of stewed fruit that not only varied the texture, but also worked brilliantly with the cookie butter’s complexity.
Told by many that the Sunday Market at Gare du Midi was perhaps the very best way to explore Brussel’s unique ethnic constructs it was on that advice that a visit was paid before the crowds got big on the 29th of May, and finding the concentration of persons covering everything from American Tourists to Refugees from war-torn regions the selection of goods cuts an equally wide swath of intrigue, everything from bargain-basement underwear and cleaning products located next to unpasteurized cheeses and cured meats.
Truly a spectacle, the food options a bargain even when compared to smaller shops and food stands spread throughout Europe, suffice it to say one could eat at Gare du Midi for a month of Sundays without sampling all the options, yet for those willing to follow their nose there is one stand that stands heads above even the artisan rotisseries, a sizable tent demarcated only by a few small whiteboards with small mention of the name “Miel & Olive.”
In essence a large deli, the collection of olives, pickles, spreads and cheese arcing from Greek to Turkish to Indian and more, those merely passing by the sea of bowls may not even notice that there is a line and seating on the back side were it not for the heavenly aroma lingering, and with one elderly woman hand-stretching dough over a hot griddle to make several sorts of bread, crepes and confections the line moves fairly quickly with prices that border on impossible, just €3 netting a nearly 300g roll of hot, soft bread stuffed with fresh white cheese, olive in tapenade and a liberal dollop of honey that may just be one of the best compositions of sweet and salty textures available anywhere for such a bargain.
Located at Rue Vanderkindere 377 in Uccle, another store at Fort Jaco with the 1986 original in in Ixelles, Le Saint Aulaye features the baking history of Gerard Marciquet plus the current team of Chefs Gregoire, Barre and Dupont, the results a downright mesmerizing collection of fifty or more Viennoiserie, Breads, Waffles, Pastries and Tarts.
Opening at 7h00, early by Belgian Standards but clearly welcomed by locals given the continuous flow of traffic throughout the earl day, Le Saint Aulaye is a sizable space compared to almost every other Bolangerie in the city surrounding and making the most of its footprint with a clean layout fully loaded with glass cases the biggest difficulty for patrons seems to be deciding where to begin and how to focus as temptation beckons no matter where one rests their gaze.
Truly an impressive display, the craftsmanship and time invested in each creation easy to see, suffice it to say that “biting off more than one can chew” is likely for all but the most restrained, an order of nine items for just one person assuredly leaving leftovers, though not as much as many would think.
Comparable to others in cost, the order just €27.10 all-inclusive, first tastes began with items still warm from the oven and although the Liege Waffle did not feature as much crystallized sugar as those made fresh elsewhere the laminated pastry showed evidence of great leavening, the Almond Croissant slightly compromised by a bit too much Frangipane filling while the Pain aux Raisin placed a picture perfect shatter atop curls of fruit and butter.
Slightly overcooking the canele, interior sill smooth but just past custard, breads proved a strong point for the shop as both the Chocolate-studded Sourdough and Brioche Donut dazzled with their respective textures, the Baba au Rhum taking the route of customization by way of a pipette filled with liquor while the cake itself was a delicate sponge fully soaked in simple syrup.
Ending with Choux, both selections taking a modern look at French classics, there is little doubt the chocolate dipped Profitteroles comprising a St. Honore warrant “must-order” accolades, the linear Brest a la Éclair equally noteworthy with the handmade hazelnut cream some of the lightest seen as of this writing.
Tart Citron, Green Strawberry Macaron, 80% Chocolate with Coffee, White Chocolate Caramel Truffle
A grande dame of Belgian dining, the small room at Place Rouppe 23 once holding three Michelin Stars and currently in possession of two, Comme Chez Soi dates to the year 1936 and still a family-run operation today with Chef Lionel Rigolet a grandson-in-law to original owner Georges Cuvelier the passion to continually update is commendable, though certain dogmas of fine-dining undoubtedly remain.
Located in central Brussels, a rarity amongst the city’s best places to dine, entry to Comme Chez Soi sees guests greeted by several stern faces and with the average diner’s age topping sixty the room’s Art Nouveau design carries an air of pomp and circumstance, art-glass reflected off mirrors above big bouquets of flowers while a large window offers a view of the action behind the scenes.Following a practice of tasting menu-only weekends, a shorter version of the degustation available at a slightly lower price, the pacing at Comme Chez Soi follows a leisurely model embraced by most of the regions haute-cuisine and with the seven courses plus extras stretching nearly four-hours the delays are sometimes greater than forty minutes, perhaps not ideal for solo diners though the staff did do their best in offering a book on the region as well as several magazines to read.
Somewhat frustrated that no a la carte additions were available, just a few choices to be made for course one and course three, the longer degustation with warm cheese supplement was ordered after some deliberation, jacket shed shortly after five clever canapes as air circulates poorly in the room soon filled to capacity, the trio of breads a strong effort with the pain aux cereal particularly impressive when gilded with salted butter still wet from Normandy.
Unapologetically stiff, neither server nor Maitre ‘D ever once seen cracking a smile, the degustation officially began with room-temperature rounds of young rabbit with nuttiness enhanced by light grilling amidst light cheese, cucumbers and apples, the following plate of Cod and slightly overcooked Squid sauced tableside with top-notes of licorice shining amidst smooth citrus and a touch of heat.
Small in portions but bold in flavors, even opening bites quite rich while the bread basket proves tough to ignore, course three served two rosy slices of Pigeon breast along with vegetables and a sidecar of crispy leg atop Vegetable Gratin, the Green Asparagus soon to prove a signature of nearly every menu in the region while a small segment of Sweetbread beneath a crispy top-hat rounded out the savories with a white stalk from Mechelen along topped with Morels, cream and Mustard seeds.
Graciously allowing me a single portion of warm Blue Cheese, the menu suggesting a price of €14/pp with a minimal order of two, suffice it to say that the warm puddle is worthy the splurge with caramelized apples, Port and flavors of Speculoos, a clever two-part pre-dessert well conceptualized but unfortunately overwhelmed by Mangoes and Passion Fruit, the follow-up far more impressive with Dark Chocolate Ganache lightly accented by Strawberries with flavors melded by Olive Oil and tangy yogurt ice cream.
At this point past 23h00, Jetlag finally setting in after nearly 34 hours awake or in the air, a quartet of mignardises arrived with another long delay preceding the bill’s presentation, a total of just about $250 US including 1L of water on par with most American restaurants carrying similar accolades and overall a worthwhile experience though certainly not a “destination” meal like others in the area earning two or more Red Guide Stars.
Madagascar 49% Sipping Chocolate steeped with Madagascar Vanilla Bean with ‘Cralin’ and Chocolate Crispy
Brussels Style Waffle with Chantilly and Melted 76% Chocolate from Costa Rica
Caramel Duck, Speculoos Truffle, Poire William Truffle, Vietnamese 80%
In a city where every street seems to feature a chocolate shop (or three) the decision of where to invest can occasionally seem daunting, but claiming a bean-to-bar concept with the factory mere steps away it would be hard to fault any aspect of Frederic Blondeel’s operation, the man self-described as a “roaster” as much as a chocolatier turning out world-class confections with a small café menu, as well.
Sporting the standard collection of tablets, pralines, truffles and likewise, spreads and hot chocolate mix also available with handmade ice cream sold by the scoop in house, it was with a cup of the signature milk chocolate along with a waffle and hand whipped Chantilly that the tasting began and complimented by truly friendly service both options were reference-standard for the region, the creamy cocoa upgraded through stewing with whole vanilla beans while the crisp waffle sand beneath dark sauce and ethereal Cream.
Passing on cookies, brownies and Fondant, though all offered temptation, remaining space was invested in four more chocolates to go with the crispy one served alongside the hot chocolate, the Vietnamese 80% absolutely pure, potent and silky while the caramel duck was equally textbook, Poire Williams offering a boozy center to one truffle while the first of many Speculoos experiences was had by way of the other.
Bolus – Caramelized AOP Butter Pastry with Pastry Cream and Raisins
Tortillons – Laminated AOP Butter Twist
Located just steps from Mer du Nord and thus perfectly situated for dessert as the fish stand sells none, Boulangerie Charli falls somewhere in the upper-middle of Brussels enormous range of boulangerie and patisserie, the Belgian “Bolus” a specialty not seen anywhere else in the city while the seasonal Clafoutis is equally worth ordering.
Originally opened in late 2009, owner Charles Reboulet taking a truly organic route from flour and free-range eggs to AOP Butter, Charli features treats ranging from breakfast Viennoiserie to several styles of pastry and although tightly packed the limited seating options offer a full view of the glass-enclosed kitchen, several young men and women still baking, folding or rolling even at 14h30.
Abrupt in their interactions, likely a result of heavily toured location as other bakeries came across more friendly, bites of the almond croissant showed a twice-baked iteration slightly compromised by too-sweet a filling while the Éclair had undoubtedly suffered from shelf-time, the coffee filling nice and smooth but the choux a touch soggy.
Intrigued by Totillon, it’s flavor something like a Palmier with laminated layers well separated, this selection proved superfluous in the face of the Bolus which ate like a Kouign Amann spiraled around raisins and pastry cream, the tart tatin compromised by the choice to use a crust thicker than 5cm while the Clafoutis was nearly perfect for an individual portion with pudding-textured cake rife with butter cradling stewed cherries.
Dubbed by ‘foodies,’ tourists and locals as a “can’t miss” meal in Brussels, it was straight off the plane that a stop was made at Nordzee ‘Mer du Nord’ Seafood, the order-and-wait-for-your-name-to-be-screamed-while-jockying-for-a-table style as much a part of the experience as the food based on reviews though the former was a non-issue for solo-dining while the later is a touch pricy, all things considering, though still very good.
One part retail, several Chefs in the area buying their fresh fish straight from the stand, the main action at Noordzee is by way of a walk-up counter with a simple whiteboard menu and although a late afternoon arrival saw several specials already sold out there still seemed to be no lack of a customers, the Croquettes and Razor Clams undeniably the most popular options while daily soups and fried fish seemed more quick to come off the line.
Accepting Cash or Credit, the former requested with preference and the card machines frequently “down” as they were on this particular Saturday, an order of three items plus complimentary bread tallied a bill of just under €20 and starting with bread and soup straight from the hands that had just handled money the flavor of briny seasnails came through loud and clear beneath a heavy shake of pepper amidst chunks of cooked-to-tender broccoli.
Skipping skewers, though items coming off the grill looked great, It was perhaps fifteen minutes before parts two and three were shouted out separately, the croquettes filled with creamy cheese and copious chopped crevettes while the kibbling was fried skin-on for maximum flavor with the house tartare complimenting the mild white flesh.
Chef Series #4: Pre-Memorial Day Chef’s Pot Luck at Niu Gu
Jimmy Li – Niu Gu Signature Short Rib
Jimmy Li – Hong Kong Style Black Cod
Jimmy Li – Tea Jelly with Almond
Antonio Nunez – 36-hour cured Whole Hog Roast with Roasted Garlic Puree, Chipotle Adobo, Brown Sugar, Fresh Bay Leaves, Black Peppercorns and Jalapeno Bacon
Marty Red DeLeon Lopez- Pork Belly Adobo Roulades with Garlic Rice and Pork Fat
Jon VanHusen – Skillet Cornbread
Jon VanHusen – Mushroom Meatloaf
Chris Decker – Sausage & Calabrian Peppers, Italian bread Platter
John Courtney – Green Tripe Salad, Fresh Garbanzo Beans, Bird’s Beak Chili, Preserved Buddha Vinaigrette
Christopher Palmeri – Potato Gnocchi with Farmer’s Market Caponata
Sandra Palomo – Beef Kelaguen and Mango Cucumber Garnish
Dan Krohmer – Homemade Kim Chi Fried Rice
Josh Smith – Frisee Aux Lardons, Pate Campagne, Cornichons, Country Bread
Carlos Buscaglia – French Toast Bread Pudding, House Smoked Maple Syrup, Tres Leches Gelato from Gelatology
Hemant Kishore – Gulab Jamun
Jonathan Pluvinet – Tarte Tatin, Chocolate Almond Croissants
Jaret Blinn – Stone Fruit Pop Tarts and Sea Salt Spiced Caramel Pots de Creme
Tiffany Sheree Jones – Lemon Meringue Cake, Banana Caramel Cake
Matthew Piekarski and Carol Garcia -HeXx Single Origin Petit Four Selection of Brownies, Chocolate Tarts, Chocolate Chip Cookies and Chocolate Cheesecake with Caramel Corn
Tammy Alana – Blueberry and Lemon Verbena Tartlets
David Cooper – Ketel One, Sage infused Simple Syrup, Cucumber, Fresh Lemon Juice, Touch of Mint with a float of Sparkling Water and Cucumber Peel garnish
David Cooper – Don Julio Reposado, Montinegro Amaro, Grapefruit infused Simple Syrup , Fresh Orange Juice, Fresh Grapefruit, Sprinkle of Sea Salt and Tajin with a float of Grapefruit Soda garnished by a Grapefruit Peel dipped in Sea Salt-Tajin Rub
Opting for an all-in communal dining experience common to the start of Summer, Chef Series #4 took on the concept of a Pot Luck lunch and with Joe Muscaglione offering to host at Chinatown’s Niu Gu on South Jones thirty-plus guests were treated to a spread from twenty of Las Vegas’ best Chefs, Bakers and Bartenders for a mere $20 each.
Truly a feast for the ages, each Chef donating a plate of their choice and invited to join diners at the table if they could find the time, it was through a combined effort that plates were collected to set the scene for buffet-style service and with spots like Bardot actually sending their a Sous Chef to compose their dish in the kitchen the sights and smells were enough to get appetites going, a truly multi-cultural event with everything served in portions that could have fed double the number of attendees.
Always impressed by not only the talent in the local kitchens, but by the general sense of community amongst Chefs and diners alike, it would truly be impossible to pick out one dish that “stood out” amongst such an outlandish collection of foods that most diners would never dare attempt for a simple family outing, though there is little doubt that everything presented received a thorough tasting from several well-versed locals, the Pork Belly Adobo Roulades from Marty Red DeLeon Lopez of 35 Steaks + Martinis particularly receiving compliments from Chef Li of Niu Gu while several could not get enough of Jon VanHusen’s Skillet Cornbread from Elements.
No doubt a skilled group, some opting to up the ante as others announced their dishes in the Chef Series group on Facebook, it would be hard to say any dish was more “eye-catching” than Antonio Nunuez Whole Hog offering and having tasted some of the Chef’s Roast Pork at Kitchen Table the meat here was every bit as impressive, if not more so, Chris Palmeri’s Gnocchi continuing to show why Naked City is as Essential to Las Vegas diners as any while Chris Decker’s Bread, Sausage and Peppers provided a good reminder of how much beauty can be found in the simplest old-world pairings.
With Other Mama’s Dan Krohmer sending Homemade Kim Chi Fried Rice that effortlessly rewarmed in one of Niu Gu’s Woks, JD from Bardot found himself wok-frying Lardons to top off Josh Smith’s Frisee Salad surrounded by golden Eggs, the Pate and Bread furthering the embarrassment of riches as did John Courtney’s vibrant Tripe Salad and Sandra Sandra Palomo’s Beef Kelaguen that will never be seen at Yardbird, but may just be worth begging her to make for you by special request.
Obviously not expecting everyone to play by the rules, Chefs of this caliber always going above the call of duty, both VanHusen and HKLife’s Hemant Kishore could not help but double down and send two plates, the former pastry chef from PublicUS showing he still hasn’t lost his fastball for sweetness with orbs of Gulab Jamun alongside fragrant Malabar Chicken Biriyani while Chef Jon’s Mushroom Meatloaf may not have been much to look at, but was downright delicious just the same.
Admitting that the turnout was greater than anticipated, every Chef asked gladly agreeing to chip in at no cost, host Jimmy Li sent out his signature Shortrib in several rounds along with shell-on spicy shrimp and freshly delivered Black Cod all plated elegantly while the dessert spread unfolded like a who’s who of local talents from Henderson to the Strip to Summerlin and Spring Valley.
Joined by Coop, a man oft considered the best Bartender in Las Vegas, who got up at 3am to begin preparation and stayed the whole event mixing cocktails every bit as creative as those served at Carnevino, dessert tasting began with two cakes from aspiring city councilwoman Tiffany Sheree Jones of Peridot Sweets and with both the frosted Banana Bread and Lemon Mascarpone equally elegant so too were the meringue tartlets from Alize and Andres’ Tammy Alana, the fruit theme continued by Jaret Blinn’s CRAFTKitchen Pop-Tarts and a Tarte Tatin as good as many found in Europe from Rosallie’s Jonathan Pluvinet.
An excessive display to say the least, several bags, boxes and clamshells packed with still more left to feed the Niu Gu team a very fine Staff Meal, special thanks go out to Carlos Buscaglia of Due Forni for getting up early to fire the ovens *and* deliver his outstanding Bread Pudding with Gelato from Desyree despite limited staffing at his restaurant, and also to Chefs Matt and Carol at HeXx for continuing to do everything they do to offer something completely unique at Paris’ 24/7 eatery, the individually portioned Petit Fours each made from Single Origin Chocolate, while more cocoa provided the filling to Pluvinet’s flaky Croissants and the creamy base of Pots de Crème topped with caramel from Chef Blinn.
Special Thanks to the Chefs, attendees and hosts: As many of you may know, the last month has been incredibly fast paced and stressful, though things are finally starting to calm down. Without each of you there is no way this event would have been possible and despite many moving parts the whole thing came together beautifully without a hitch. You all are what makes dining in this city special and with continued effort I really do think we can continue to grow a community that supports collaboration and honest, great food across Las Vegas. I look forward to many more of these events and many more meals at tables throughout this truly unique city.
TIP: Chef Series #5 will feature Metro Pizza and LuLu’s Bread and Breakfast Chef Chris Decker with Dan Krohmer at Other Mama. 6/18/16 at 4:00pm. Save the Date. Details to Follow.
