Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room, Savannah GA

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Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room

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Fried Chicken, Meat Loaf, Barbecue Pork, Beef Stew

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Beans, Green Beans, Creamed Corn, Pickled Beets, Stuffing, Mac n’ Cheese, Lima Beans, Boiled Okra,Mixed Vegetables, Beans/Sausage/Rice, Cornbread, Biscuits, Au Gratin Potatoes, Squash, Sweet Potato Puree, Vinegar Cucumbers, Giblet Gravy

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Banana Pudding

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Blackberry Cobbler

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Tea, Sweet Tea, Iced Water

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Open 11:00am until 2:00pm five days a week with a line starting as early as 9:00am whether rain, shine, or humidity and ninety-five degree temperatures making patrons feel as though they’d been rained on Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room is truly an institution, the historic boardinghouse feeding locals and tourists for nearly eighty years…and on the day of my visit feeding The Real Housewives of Atlanta who were allowed to skip the line while myself and a hundred others waited ninety minutes in the August sun, much to the dismay of the locals in front of me who still waited, despite having been to Mrs. Wilkes’ greater than two dozen times – as great a testament as I needed to stay in line for the $18 family style meal with more than a dozen sides, four main proteins, and two desserts of exemplary quality and an experience I won’t soon forget.

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http://mrswilkes.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Georgia, Mrs. Wilkes’, Pork, Savannah, Vacation

Early Bird Diner, Charleston SC

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Early Bird Diner

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Buttermilk Biscuit

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Chicken and Waffles

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French Toast

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Peach Pancakes

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Eggs Toast and Hash

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Red Velvet Cobbler with Fresh Strawberry Compote

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Located along the Savannah Highway as we were en route for Savannah from Charleston it was actually our waitress at The Glass Onion who suggested a stop at the Early Bird Diner and much like the other dining advice we received from locals in Charleston the recommendation was spot-on. A small space heavily decorated with art by local artists and patrons that all seemed to be regulars, Early Bird’s menu advertised “scratch made local diner fare” and in a city where a good breakfast was scarce downtown it not only proved the best breakfast in South Carolina, but a reason to make the trip out of town for a good meal and great service. From breakfast standards like fluffy eggs and good hash browns onward to thick, pillowy pancakes served soufflé style with peaches on the bottom, and featuring excellent ‘diner standard’ French toast plus golden biscuits and double fried chicken and waffles each item that we ordered at Early Bird came from the kitchen piping hot with a smile from our friendly server but if there is one item that truly stood out above the rest it was a dish entitled “Red Velvet Cobbler” on the chalkboard dessert menu – a dish the chef happily fired up even at 8:00am featuring strawberries stored in sugar overnight baked in the oven under a slice of red velvet cake topped with house made strawberry jam forming a molten chocolate strawberry pudding that wasn’t exactly visually appealing but also did not last long enough to worry about looking at once we all had a spoon in our hand.

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http://www.earlybirddiner.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Charleston, Coffee, Dessert, Early Bird Diner, Food, French Toast, Pancakes, South Carolina, Vacation, Waffles

Poogan’s Porch, Charleston SC

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Poogan’s Porch

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Buttermilk Biscuits

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Fig Cosmo – Feigling Vodka, Cranberry, Lime, Orange

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Sparkling Blueberry Lemonade – La Bubbly, Lemonade, Van Gogh Acai Blueberry Vodka

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Grilled Peach and Strawberry Salad – Balsamic Reduction, Spicy Salted Cashews

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Mac n Cheese – Country Ham and Aged Smoked Gouda

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Fried Green Tomatoes – Pecan Encrusted Goat Cheese, Fruit Chutney

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Pimento Cheese Fritters with Green Tomato Jam

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Chef Isaac’s She Crab Soup with dry Sherry and Chive Oil

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Buttermilk Fried Chicken – Two Double Breaded Breasts, Pimento Slaw, Butter Whipped Potato

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Pan Roasted Duck – Cast Iron Roasted Breast, Potato Dumplings, Fresh Arugula, Duck Confit, Pecorino, Merlot Gastrique

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Chocolate Strawberry Bread Pudding

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Banana Pudding – Vanilla Pudding, Fresh Sliced Banana, Sugar Cookie Crumble, Chantilly Cream

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Bourbon Texas Sheet Cake – Chocolate Fudge Cake, Salted Caramel, Strawberry Ice Cream

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Chocolate Pecan Pie – Bourbon Caramel, Buttermilk Smoked Bacon Ice Cream, Brown Sugar Cream

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Located adjacent to HUSK and featuring the same updated Victorian stylings and southern sensibilities as its neighbor my family had perused the menu at Poogan’s Porch the night prior and decided it would make a lovely spot for dinner while I dined at FIG, the late reservation fortunately allowing me to arrive mere moments after they had ordered drinks. A large restaurant from the outside and, like HUSK, divided into many rooms with well-mannered service the menu at Poogan’s Porch appears to be a time honored one with many classics dating back as far as the 1970s opening plus a few daily specials and selecting widely from the appetizers while adding a pair of mains plus desserts a rather diverse menu of Lowcountry classics was put together with largely impressive results save for an underwhelming salad, overly salted macaroni, and well prepared though not particularly memorable duck. Beginning with the restaurant’s signature biscuits – as good as any we experienced in Charleston and replenished freely – and progressing through tender fried green tomatoes, fritters of spicy pimento cheese, and she crab soup finished tableside with sherry before delving into crispy fried chicken smothered in buttermilk gravy it was without a doubt the restaurant’s more “southern” dishes that shined the brightest and similarly when it was time for dessert there was no denying that as much as I enjoyed the bread pudding it was a distant fourth to the other selections, particularly the bubbling pot of bourbon caramel topped with chocolate and a quickly melting scoop of rich, smoky ice cream.

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http://www.poogansporch.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Charleston, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Poogan's Porch, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation

FIG, Charleston SC

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FIG

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Whole Wheat and Sourdough Bread with Butter

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Poisonous Peach – Bourbon, Domaine de Canton, South Carolina Peach Puree, Soda, Mint

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John’s Island Tomato Tarte Tatin – Fromage Blanc, Nicoise Olive

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Capers Inlet Clam and Sweet Corn Chowder “a la minute” with Benton’s Bacon and Brown Bread

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Caw Caw Creek Pork Trotter – Sunny Side Up Farm Egg, Summer Salad, Pickled Peppers, Thick Cut Heirloom Tomato

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Ricotta Gnocchi and Sea Island Grass Fed Beef Bolognese and Parmesan

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Celeste Figs and Lemon Pudding, Doughnut Peaches, Saba, Cornmeal Shortbread

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Sticky Sorghum Cake – Cinnamon Ice Cream

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With Chef Michael Lata at the helm since opening its doors in 2003 the acronymic FIG was to be the final dinner of my trip to Charleston and although a twist of fate would actually find me venturing out for another meal later that night it was in fact the 2009 Beard Award winner’s cuisine that lingered in my memory throughout the night and the following days, all four savory courses and two desserts an exercise in simple ingredients prepared by a skilled hand to display the utmost of color, flavor, and texture. A surprisingly large and boisterous restaurant with a bar up front and a large dining room in back I was given the option of a table or the bar and given the decibel level opted for the later, a good choice placing me next to another solo diner who happened to be a local sommelier and in the hands of a very skilled bartender whose knowledge of the menu rivaled her skills mixing drinks; the outstanding ‘poisonous peach’ her recommendation when I suggested I wanted something sweet and local. Moving on to the cuisine, first let it be said here that no one should leave FIG without trying the signature Tart Tatin, a truly inspired dish giving new meaning to the debate as to whether tomatoes are fruit or vegetable, and moving on to the light, bright summer chowder before progressing to a much heftier second round of a lightly breaded trotter finding balance in impeccable vegetables plus pillowy gnocchi in a rich meat sauce the only ‘problem’ here was deciding which was best and trying not to fill up on the impressive house made breads. A great meal with another three savories still beckoning as I turned to desserts it was again with a heavy heart that I left two desired desserts to the ages instead opting to be sensible and only order two, the lemon pudding served in a long dish and beautifully textured by the figs and shortbread while saba lent its slight savory notes and the cake – a ‘sticky pudding’ made of sorghum flour and syrup further lacquered and drizzled with the syrup and intensely sweet, just barely reined in by the ice cream and an iced Americano.

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http://www.eatatfig.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Charleston, Dessert, Fig, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation

Rutledge Cab Co, Charleston SC

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Rutledge Cab Company

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Chicken Fried Sweetbreads – Alabama White Sauce

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Fillin’ Station Charcuterie – Fried Bologna, Hoop Cheddar, Smoked Sausage, Potted Pork, Country Ham, Pepper Jelly Mustard, Pickled Vegetables, Saltine Crackers

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Fried Cheese Curd Nubs – Green Goddess-Horseradish Dressing

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Shrimp Cake Sandwich – Tomato Relish, Cucumbers, Ginger Remoulade, Toasted Hoagie

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Roasted Potato and Blue Cheese Flatbread – Rosemary, Blue Cheese, Tupelo Honey

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Southern Pecan Pie

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Red Velvet Cake

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Nutella Milkshake

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Highly recommended by my server at McCrady’s who’d apparently picked up her fondness for the restaurant from Chef Brock, Rutledge Cab Company would follow an abysmal visit to Two Boroughs Larder not only more than redeeming the afternoon, but also proving to be one of the biggest surprises of our trip to Charleston. Owned and Operated by Chef Robert Carter who happened to be at the restaurant during our visit and without a doubt a “place where the locals eat” one of the first things one notices about Rutledge Cab Co upon opening the door is a sense of welcome – smiles all around, servers having fun, and the mood lively – and just after that one notices the smell of the charcoal, an indoor grill factoring into much of the restaurant’s cuisine, including both a delicately charred flatbread and much of the charcuterie on a the plentiful and rustic “fillin’ station’ board. From beginning to end a meal that was not only a whole lot of fun but exquisitely prepared and thoroughly delicious be weary that portions here are larger than one would guess given the low menu prices and either bring a large appetite or a few friends because neither the five layer red velvet cake nor the too-thick-for-a-straw nutella shake should be missed.

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http://rutledgecabco.com/

Posted in Charleston, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, RCC, Rutledge Cab Co, Rutledge Cab Company, South Carolina, Sweetbreads, Vacation

Two Boroughs Larder, Charleston SC

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Two Boroughs Larder

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Fried Quail – Popcorn, Blueberry, Aged Cheddar, Fish Sauce

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Roasted Goat – Fava Bean, Sunflower Seed, Goat Jus

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Bread and Butter – Everything Bread, NC Butter

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Scrapple Sandwich – Farm Egg, Aged Cheddar, Hard Roll

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Whipped Ricotta – Country Bread, Anchoiade

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Described as a “charming locally owned restaurant” featuring a kitchen, bar, beer/wine shop, and store with provisions both edible and not from local purveyors Two Boroughs Larder seemed like one of those can’t miss dining experiences, a fact bolstered by an innovative hyper-seasonal menu available throughout the day, and yet when it was all said and done there was nothing I’d have rather done than miss every moment of our nearly ninety minute succession of poor service, forgotten plates, and nonchalant indifference to the fact that the larder is, in fact, in the business of food ‘service.’ Small in size and largely empty save for a few folks chatting at the bar when we arrived it would not be long before one of two servers approached and presented menus and water, returning shortly thereafter lacking both a smile and any significant knowledge of the menu, and with orders placed the bread and whipped ricotta would arrive swiftly – both decent but not particularly memorable – before the wait began…a nearly hour long delay later attributed to the young woman being ‘new’ without any semblance of an apology. Spending much of our wait browsing the store and chatting before finally deciding to inquire as to the nature of the delay when the quail and goat did arrive both were quite good but minuscule in portion given the $16 and $12, respective, tabs – a situation all the more frustrating when the wrong sandwich arrived – the pork neck in place of the scrapple – further delaying the meal while we awaited the admittedly funky and delicious sandwich which was delivered without a word simultaneously with the bill.

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http://twoboroughslarder.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Charleston, Food, Pork, South Carolina, Two Boroughs Larder, Vacation

Firefly Distillery, Wadmalaw Island SC

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Firefly Distillery

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Southern Accents Banana Pudding Liqueur, Southern Accents Chocolate Pecan Pie Liqueur, Peach Moonshine, Sea Island Java Rum, Sweet Tea Bourbon, Southern Lemonade Vodka

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Part winery, part distillery, part farm, and part petting zoo it was at my sister’s suggestion that we made our way out to Wadmalaw Island to visit Firefly Distillery and while I cannot even pretend to be a conniseur of vodka, rum, bourbon, or shine I can admit that although I was skeptical at first I ended up not only having a great time but also learning a few things. With spirits for sale by the bottle or available as a six quarter-ounce (total 1.5 oz.) tasting for $6 with a souvenir shot glass to go we opted to try the flight first before committing to any purchase and with a clever young woman named Erin pouring our shots at well over the expected quarter ounce while explaining each selection and the brewing process we made our way through a collection of organic liquers, rums, vodkas, and even a true Tennessee Bourbon imported and infused with sweet tea before collecting a few bottles to take home at ~$20/each. A great time and a fun diversion from all the food, history, and Charleston culture be sure to wander the grounds, play some corn hole, swing on the tire swing, and visit the animals as well – the cow wandering the vineyards and “attack bunnies” were particularly charming, though the outhouses were less so.

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http://fireflyvodka.com/

Posted in Charleston, Firefly Distillery, South Carolina, Vacation, Wadmalaw Island

Toast of Charleston, Charleston SC

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Toast of Charleston

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Shrimp and Grits with Fried Green Tomatoes

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Blueberry Pecan Pancakes with Bacon

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Eggs, Bacon, Toast, Grits

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Biscuit

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Apple and Peach Cinnamon Raisin French Toast

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Trumpeted by some as a Charleston institution and featuring early opening hours a family breakfast was planned at Toast before heading out to Firefly Distillery and the plantations I can only assume that our experience was an anomaly because from limited parking to condescending service through and including mediocre food and a restroom unfit for a rural gas station I really cannot fathom any degree of praise for the restaurant. Beginning with a server who tried to upsell every dish while downplaying the versions at other neighborhood restaurants to a substantial delay of nearly thirty minutes for dry ‘blueberry’ pancakes with Land-o-Lakes and Mrs. Butterworth’s, undercooked and bready French Toast topped with canned pie filling, and run-of-the-mill grits with anemic shrimp and fairly good fried green tomatoes it was a lone biscuit that proved to be the saving grace of the morning – a biscuit proudly served with “mixed berry” jam in a little packet alongside Land-o-Lakes and a bill that would have felt like a rip off even at 50% off.

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http://toastofcharleston.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Charleston, Coffee, Food, French Toast, Pancakes, Pork, South Carolina, Toast of Charleston, Vacation

Glazed Gourmet, Charleston SC

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Glazed Gourmet

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Glazed

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Cannoli

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Lemon Old Fashioned

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Raspberry

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Black and White (chocolate filled horn, powdered sugar)

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Cookies n’ Cream

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Apple Bacon Fritter

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Having been to my fair share of doughnut shops, both the oldschool variety and those representing the new artisan style, I was excited to visit Glazed Gourmet when we first arrived in Charleston but finding the store sold out minutes after noon on Sunday the experience would be delayed until Tuesday, an early morning stop finding a full selection of fried dough from which a half dozen plus one options were selected, the total bill just under $20 with an average tip. Yet another Charleston eatery touting a local-seasonal approach with dough, glaze, and fillings all homemade plus no preservatives or artificial flavors our tasting of doughnuts began with the simple glazed version and moving on to other yeasted selections including the raspberry and filled cookies n’ cream everyone agreed that although the flavors were good, particularly the raspberry, the dough itself was seemingly overworked and stretchy with a spongelike mouthfeel that was generally off-putting no matter how ‘fresh.’ Focusing next on the cake options, textures fared better in both the tangy lemon and inspired cannoli with light mascarpone and nutty notes, but moving next to the ‘fritter’ the same issue recurred – an unpleasant stretch to the dough while the pastry itself was more a filled yeasted doughnut than a true fritter where the apples are integrated in the dough. Last, and certainly not least, the black and white horn…if only every doughnut at Glazed Gourmet was this delicious they would definitely be onto something – the texture something like a Hungarian Nut Horn with a ribbon of chocolate coursing the inside making the powdered sugar mess entirely worthwhile.

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http://www.glazedgourmet.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Charleston, Dessert, Food, Glazed Gourmet, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation

HUSK, Charleston SC

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Husk

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Joggin Juice – Apple and Grape Juice, Rice Wine Vinegar, Apple Cider Vinegar, Peach Vinegar

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Cheerwine Soda

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Assorted Bourbon Based Cocktails

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Buttermilk Rolls with Benne Seeds, Smoked Bourbon Sea Salt, Honey Butter

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Spicy Pig Ear Wraps with Butterbean Hummus, Marinated Tomatoes, Husk Ricotta

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Cornbread Skillet with Benton’s Bacon

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Hand Cut Pasta with NC Blue Crab, Courgettes, Roasted Fennel, Confit Tomato, Pickled Garlic, Husk Manchego

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Slow Cooked Pig Tails with KY Soy-Sweet Pepper Glaze, Spiced Peanut, Cilantro, Compressed Cucumber

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Sorghum Glazed Pork Belly, Buttered Sea Island Red Peas, Sweet Corn Cream, Crispy Leeks, Benne

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Wood Fired NC Flounder, Carolina Gold Rice, Grilled Courgettes, Roasted Corn, Shiitake, Maitre D’ Butter

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TX Wagyu, Crispy Confit Potatoes, Spring Onions, Pickled Mepkin Abbey Oyster Mushrooms, KY Worchestershire

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Tanglewood Farms Pheasant with Wood Fired Peaches, Eggplant, Golden Beet Pickled Peach Relish

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Ambrose Farms Rainbow Carrots with Ember Roasted Fennel

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Baked Geechie Boy Grits with SC Mushrooms and Sweetwater Valley Cheddar

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Blueberry Boy Bait – Ambrose Farms Blueberries, Lime Ice Cream, Smoked Pecan Crumble, Sorghum

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Lemon Blackberry Trifle – Lemon Curd, Pound Cake, Blackberries, Whipped Cream

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Plum Upside-Down cake – HUSK Crème Fraiche, Honeycomb, Lavender

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South Carolina Peach Cobbler – White Chocolate Ice Cream, Rye Bourbon Butterscotch

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Praline Semifreddo – SC Figs, Port Reduction, Salted Pecans

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Americano

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Garnering a seemingly unimaginable amount of praise since opening its doors in 2011 Sean Brock’s Husk was the obvious choice for family dinner the night after my stellar visit to McCrady’s and featuring the chef’s same dedication to high quality sourcing but a slightly more casual approach to exploring the cuisine of the Low Country it would be hard to imagine any finer execution of a chef’s vision. Located in a restored 1890s Victorian on Queen Street and spanning two floors with a young, energetic staff fully invested in the Chef’s principles a meal at Husk traditionally begins with a brief script regarding the fact that everything on the menu is from the south and after presenting an extensive bourbon and cocktails list the decisions become difficult as nearly everything on the menu seems both familiar and intriguing at the same time; some decisions like the famous Pig Ear Wraps, Cornbread, and Pig Tails obvious choices while other items that one may typically overlook, such as a simply grilled fish, become ever more interesting due to their accoutrements. Selecting widely and covering five appetizers, three mains, two side dishes, and every one of the night’s desserts plus cocktails both boozy and virgin it really came as no surprise that much of what we ordered was at once rustic yet refined given the combination of old world recipes and modern techniques and while certainly not as innovative as the cuisine at McCrady’s the food at Husk proved every bit as delicious – the desserts even more so with both the cobbler and the semifreddo amongst the best renditions I’ve ever tasted and the upsidedown cake something like sticky toffee pudding with a Southern spin, and all the better for it.

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http://www.huskrestaurant.com/home/

Posted in Bread Basket, Charleston, Coffee, Cornbread, Crab, Dessert, Food, HUSK, Ice Cream, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation

Martha Lou’s Kitchen, Charleston SC

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Martha Lou’s Kitchen

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Fried Chicken with Cornbread, Peach Bread Pudding, Mac n’ Cheese

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Fried Pork Chop with Cornbread, Peach Bread Pudding, Mac n’ Cheese

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Having already enjoyed a rather full day of eating and with dinner plans at Husk it was with a bit of resent that I dragged my family through the doors of a small pink shack with worn car seats and barred windows decorating the exterior and white cinder blocks with mismatched tables within, but generally willing to indulge even my oddest dining plans it would not be long before doubt turned into delight. Titled “Martha Lou’s Kitchen” and staffed by Martha herself plus a pair of younger assistants it would be safe to call the restaurant at 1068 Morrison Drive ‘unassuming’ or ‘no frills’ with the cash-only, Styrofoam plates, and bathroom outdoors aesthetics but much like dining at grandma’s house the charms here are the people and the food, both of which are beyond reproach. Featuring a limited menu of 3-4 meats and 6-8 sides a day and all plates ~$10-12 inclusive of two sides ordering was a relatively simple process with one fried chicken and one fried pork chop plus a total of three sides divided and provided in generous portions it would be hard to decide which was best, each protein tender and moist beneath perfectly crispy batter with all three sides scratch made, Martha literally shredding cheese over a pan of boiling milk in the kitchen before ladling it over the noodles while both the cake-like bread pudding and savory, toothsome cornbread were carved from a pan straight out of the oven.

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Posted in Bread Pudding, Charleston, Cornbread, Food, Marth Lou's Kitchen, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation

The Glass Onion, Charleston SC

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The Glass Onion

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Deviled Eggs

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Duck Liver Mousse with Crackers and Pickles

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Fig Jam on Toast with Marinated Mushrooms and Ricotta Salata

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Fried Shrimp Po Boy

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Scrambled Egg Po Boy

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Fried Quail with Potato Salad and Grits

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Fried Catfish with coleslaw and fries

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Fries with Béarnaise

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Cornbread and local honey

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Chocolate Poundcake with Cocoa Stawberry Frosting

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Bread Pudding

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Fig Cream Pie

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Butterscotch Pudding

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Unassuming in appearance from both the outside and within with a small counter from which to order, a checkerboard floor, and wooden tables with butcher’s paper ‘tablecloths’ The Glass Onion hardly appears the sort of place upholding the highest standards of local, seasonal, and sustainable dining on first sight, but with strong recommendations from friends and the culinary media alike it was with great fortune that we opted to ignore a slightly out of the way location on Savannah Highway given the resultant reward; a meal where the only ‘problem’ was deciding what to order from a menu where no less than two dozen Lowcountry and Southern classics sounded wonderful.…and all sixteen that we ordered were. Beginning first with appetizers in the form of creamy duck liver with house made pickles alongside traditional deviled eggs and the brilliant balance of sweet and savory achieved by the fig and mushroom crostini before progressing to more traditional plates including crispy fried proteins, crusty po boys, and side dishes including stick-a-spoon-up-straight grits and the best cornbread of the trip perhaps the only thing more impressive than the quality and consistency of the cuisine was the price; a whole meal for four only slightly more expensive than breakfast at Hominy Grill and vastly superior in all ways. Helmed by Chris Stewart and manned by a small crew of smiling servers working alongside a bustling kitchen staff as 80’s classics played overhead The Glass Onion is everything I’d imagined as the best of the South Carolina cuisine and whether a local or a visitor this is a restaurant worth celebrating, preferably with a group, and ideally saving room for the dessert menu listed on the other side of the kitchen as both the porridge style bread pudding and butterscotch pudding were standard bearers for their genre while the fig cream pie was quite unlike anything I’ve ever tasted, an intense opening sweetness melting into a buttery finish with a touch of texture provided by the finely shredded fruits.

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http://ilovetheglassonion.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Charleston, Cornbread, Dessert, Foie, Food, South Carolina, The Glass Onion, Vacation

Hominy Grill, Charleston SC

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Hominy Grill

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Coffee

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Housemade Banana Bread and Ginger Pumpkin Bread

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High-Rise Biscuit and White Corn Cornbread

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Peach Buttermilk Pancakes with Pecan Butter

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Big Nasty Biscuit – Fried Chicken, Cheddar Cheese, Sausage Gravy

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Shrimp & Grits – Sauteed Shrimp, Scallions, Mushrooms, Bacon, Cheese Grits

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Perhaps the most famous restaurant in Charleston prior to Sean Brock reinventing the scene at McCrady’s and Husk it was at Hominy Grill that my family experienced the first of a quartet of disappointing dining experiences in the Low Country; one of those rare meals where nothing was particularly ‘bad,’ but everything was so extremely average and overpriced that one we were left wondering what we had missed, particularly given the chef’s Beard Award winning resume. A small space with friendly service and long lines that we thankfully missed by mere moments by arriving just as the restaurant opened the breakfast menu at Hominy Grill would prove to be rather short and with a few daily specials the decision process was simple leading to our first plates arrival no more than 10 minutes after seating with good orange juice but low quality, acrid coffee served as we waited. Busy and bustling but not particularly ‘loud,’ the food started out relatively well with a pair of quick breads that were rich and warm at $2.75 a slice served alongside a fluffy, pale biscuit and alarmingly dry cornbread at $2 each but moving onto our proper plates the cost/value margin skewed far to the left as bisquick quality pancakes with less than half a peach to the plate arrived at $10 only to be outshined in their mediocrity by the $8.50 fried chicken slider and $16 quintet of small shrimp resting on perhaps half a cup of watery grits, the entirety of the plate either surviving on or overwhelmed by the strength of the smoky pork and rich mushrooms, depending on your point of view.

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http://hominygrill.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Charleston, Coffee, Cornbread, Food, Hominy Grill, Pancakes, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation

McCrady’s, Charleston SC

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McCrady’s

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White Bird – Rum, Blueberry Shrub, Velvet Falernum, Kaffir infused Salers

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Local Butter and Olive Oil, Sourdough, Red Fife with Yellow Grit and Benne Seed Bread, Italian Ciabatta

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Manhattan Copa – Cherry and Vermouth Cured

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Cracklin – Puffed Rice with Kimchee Puree and Dried Scallop

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Shrimp Fritter – Sea Island Red Flour, Vinegar Powder, Esplette

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Ambrose Potatoes, Buttermilk, Celery, Basil – Confit and Fried

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Ember Cooked Tomatoes, Clams, Zucchini, Lemon Thyme

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Lightly Smoked Trout, Peach Mostarda, Fennel, Grilled Cucumber, Cucumber Puree

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Charleston Ice Cream – 2 Year Barrel Aged Anson Mills Rice, Old Bay, Butter, Benne Seed, Whey, Rooftop Herbs

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Grilled Duck Heart, Husk Cherries, Fermented Corn, Whole Corn, Marigold

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Duck Roasted on the Bone, Zucchini, Cherries, Marjoram

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Dry Aged Kathadin Lamb, Black Truffle, Chanterelle, Raspberries, Shiso

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Whole Figs and Fig Sorbet, Birch Yogurt, Sunflower Crumble

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Blueberry, Corn Cake, White Chocolate, Stone Fruit

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Americano

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Mignardises – Benne seed Madeline, Scuppernong Gelee

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A remnant of a time long past with the original building dating to 1778 and past diners including George Washington McCrady’s would be a special place even without the sourcing, passion, and talent of a James Beard Award winning chef but with all of the above taken into account and a culinary team led by Sean Brock it goes without saying that McCrady’s should be the centerpiece of any culinary trip to Charleston. A truly charming restaurant with staff that is not only educated and engaged but educational and engaging about both the province and preparation of the food as well as facts about the property nearly every aspect of my experience at McCrady’s was the result of a kitchen and front of house in perfect harmony and placing focus squarely on the plate every single item, inclusive of canapés and mignardises, was remarkable both on its own and in its contribution to the tasting menu which unfolded over the course of three hour, both forms of duck, the potatoes, and the Charleston Ice Cream all amongst the best dishes I tasted during our trip South.

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http://mccradysrestaurant.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Charleston, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, McCrady's, Pork, South Carolina, Tasting Menu, Truffle, Vacation

The Ordinary, Charleston SC

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The Ordinary

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Smoked Amberjack Pate

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The Ordinary Lobster Roll

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Oyster Sliders

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Baked Oysters, Bottarga

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Sliced Heirloom Tomatoes

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Black Bass Provencal, Eggplant Caviar

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Baked Hawaiian Rolls

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Sea Salt Potato Chips

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Peekytoe Crab Louie with Radish and Tomato

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Chocolate Pave with Coffee Cream

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Lemon Pudding with Blueberries

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Carolina Rice Pudding with Peaches and Figs

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With a pre-dinner visit to Fig planned before supper with the family planned for our last day in Charleston a visit to The Ordinary for snacks with the family before dinner at McCrady’s seemed a perfect choice; the old bank proving a bit difficult to locate at first but, aside from some service glitches, well worth the effort from the moment we entered the beautiful, high-ceilinged space until we made our way downstairs to the exit. Clearly themed as an American brasserie and oyster hall yet dining with some who prefer their dinners less briny it was clear from the start of our meal that the selection of nearly two dozen $2.50-$3.00 bivalves would largely go unappreciated by our group but with such a selection of fresh seafood on display the eventual order would still entail a half dozen fish and shellfish plus an immaculate tomato salad, two sides, and three desserts all of very high quality. Pricey to be certain and extremely loud downstairs while the loft remained rather tame, The Ordinary is simply the sort of place where you get what you pay for and dollar-for-dollar the strongest dishes of the night were amongst the more price – specifically the $23 textbook lobster roll, $15 half dozen James River Oysters with bottarga, ample $17 crab louie, and $8 buttery smooth rice pudding sweetened ever so slightly with fresh local peaches, figs, and mint.

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http://eattheordinary.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Charleston, Crab, Dessert, Food, Lobster, South Carolina, The Ordinary, Vacation

The Macintosh, Charleston SC

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The Macintosh

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Peach and Plum Sangria

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Chartreuse/Cucumber/Lime/Gin

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Peach, Candied Walnuts, Mascarpone Muffin

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Blueberry Marcona Almond Cake with Honey Butter

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Watermelon and Tomato Salad with Torn Brown Bread, Onions, Cucumber, Raspberry Vinaigrette

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Grouper Brandade with Alabama White Sauce

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The Mac – House Ground Burger, Aged Cheddar, Neuske’s Bacon, Pecorino Truffle Fries

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Mac Attack – Pork Belly, Bone Marrow Bread Pudding, Poached Egg

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Biscuits and Sausage Gravy with a Fried Egg

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Funnel Cake

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Located downtown on King Street and featuring a brunch menu that seemed too good to miss our arrival at Jeremiah Bacon’s “The Macintosh” would find the restaurant loud and lively without a single table to be found but as fortune often works it was no less than five minutes after entry that a group of six stood up from the full service wooden bar, the seats ours for the taking with an amicable and clever bartender laying out placemats, filling water, and fetching menus quickly while taking cocktail orders for the jammed packed dining room. Undoubtedly the sort of place where the booze and the food go hand-in-hand and one of those rare times when the brunch savories rivaled the sweets it was with a round of juicy sangria for three of us and a refreshing spirit-forward cocktail for the other that decisions were weighed and orders were levied, the eventual meal consisting of eight plates passed, shared, and enjoyed by all. Beginning sweet with a dense, moist muffin and a griddled coffee cake that tasted like something you’d find at a bakery in Paris before progressing through one of the more memorable salads I’ve had in some time each of the early courses came quickly from the kitchen and close on their heels was my personal favorite item of the morning in the form of four lightly fried balls of brandade paired with the best thing ever done with mayonnaise – the mild grouper and potato peeking through beneath the heat and vinegar slowly and seductively as it melted on the tongue. Less refined but no less delicious, a heaping pile of fluffy biscuits and dense gravy arrived as my sister’s main course while my mother opted for a bacon cheeseburger minimally dressed, the grass-fed meat more than enough with the aged cheddar and crispy fries. Finally wrapping things up with one of the more decadent things I’ve had in recent memory, suffice it to say that the “Mac Attack” is every bit as rich as its ingredients would suggest, the creamy bread pudding a great base for the crispy swine and the egg just melding it all together as we awaited one last treat; an order of funnel cake on the house that seemed perfectly healthy in comparison.

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www.themacintoshcharleston.com

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Charleston, Dessert, Food, Pork, South Carolina, The Macintosh, Truffle, Vacation

Wild Flour Pastry, Charleston SC

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Wild Flour Pastry

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Sticky Bun

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Apple Turnover

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Donut Muffin

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Banana Bread

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Fig, Chevre, Prosciutto Quiche

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Lemon Curd and Blueberry Scone

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An early alarm and onward we went to Charleston where the low country beckoned and breakfast entailed a stop at Wild Flour Pastry for one of their oft-raved Sunday Sticky Buns and a handful of other baked goods. Owned and operated by Lauren Mitterer, who was busily working on a large cake throughout our stay, Wild Flour is a small space with a smiling staff and limited seating that seems to have the formula just right – a well culled menu of ‘regulars’ and a variety of specials each day allowing for a focus on quality over quantity in each item we tried from the sweet meets savory quiche to a light and aromatic scone with pockets of butter as big as those of the berries. Clearly a space dedicated to authenticity and rustic classics as opposed to more trendy options like cupcakes or macarons it should perhaps be no surprise that items such as the tender and nutty banana bread or an apple turnover that shattered into thousands of paper-thin layers with each bite impressed as much as they did, but without a doubt the star of the show was the golden brioche seemingly supersaturated with butter and caramelized pecans that they call a sticky bun, the light toasting of the nuts and a dash of salt taking something expectedly delicious and making it worth getting up an hour earlier than you normally would have and driving from Asheville for.

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http://www.wildflourpastrycharleston.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Charleston, Food, Pork, South Carolina, Vacation, Wild Flour, Wild Flour Pastry

French Broad Chocolate Lounge, Asheville NC

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French Broad Chocolate Lounge

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Chocolate Ginger Snap

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Coconut Macaroon Brownie

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Peanut Butter Ganache Cupcake

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Cold Sipping Chocolate

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Chocolate Olive Oil Cake

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Much like Tupelo Honey Café, French Broad Chocolate Lounge is a place where people seem to enjoy waiting in line for food – in the case of the former with good reason but in the case of French Broad a bit of a mixed bag, though on the night of our visit a musical duet singing and playing guitar certainly made the clock move more swiftly. Locally owned and operated with a collection of chocolates ranging from self-produced bean-to-bar options to options from Fruition and Mast Brothers plus a wide variety of cakes, truffles, and confections to pair with wine or tea our selections focused largely on the prepared items and with some items such as the chocolate dipped gingersnap and cold sipping chocolate well-crafted and elegant but largely forgettable while the macaroon brownie had an unpleasant gummy texture both of the cakes were truly impressive, the tiny cupcake dense and smooth with dense peanut butter overflowing its core and the olive oil cake impossibly light on the tongue but rich and smooth in flavor, the natural earthy tones of the cocoa powder held in check by only a dash of salt and strawberry sauce.

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http://frenchbroadchocolates.com/

Posted in Asheville, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, French Broad Chocolate Lounge, North Carolina, Vacation

Tupelo Honey Cafe, Asheville NC

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Tupelo Honey Café

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Biscuits with Blueberry Preserves

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Pimento Biscuits with Bacon Cream Cheese

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Fried Green Tomatoes Served over Goat Cheese Grits with fresh basil

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Tupelo’s Encore Cheesy Grit Cakes – deep-fried cheesy grit cakes, drizzled with hot sauce and served with our Sunshot Salsa and sour cream

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Scratch-Made Mac ‘n Cheese

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In Praise of BBQ Plate – Eight ounces of slowcooked, hand-pulled pork ‘cue tossed with smoked jalapeno barbecue sauce

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Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with a Lemon Cherry Pepper Aioli

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Nutty Fried Chicken – nut-encrusted, natural, hormone-free, chicken breast topped with milk gravy

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Brian’s Shrimp and Grits Shoo-Mercy Style – A dozen large shrimp served over Goat Cheese Grits and anointed with a spicy roasted red pepper sauce, bacon, carmelized onions, spinach and sautéed mushrooms

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Brown Butter Pecan Pie with Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

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Banana Pudding with Whipped Cream

Having visited the Knoxville location for lunch just two days prior but wanting to fully experience Asheville’s most famous culinary contribution fully with my family the decision was made to visit Tupelo Honey Café for dinner and although the wait on a Friday was expectedly long – 75 minutes for a table of four – the dining we experienced that day on the patio was the work of a restaurant well deserving of its praise, save for the unfortunate presence of some inebriated and vagrant foot traffic that was reportedly not uncommon according to our waitress. Beginning with those exquisite buttermilk biscuits plus the daily special pimento and bacon version and progressing through some of the best fried green tomatoes of the trip appetizers were terrific and actually large enough to serve as entrees for some and when it came time for our primary plates each and every one was a wonderful take on classic southern staples, the shrimp and grits particularly impressive with the fresh shrimp swimming in an ocean of cheesy grits topped with smoke, spice, and touches of sweet. Limiting our dessert choices to only a pair as we already had plans elsewhere the meal concluded with a good but relatively standard banana pudding and Tupelo Honey’s famous brown butter pecan pie, a slice served warm literally melting into a puddle of toasty salted praline over a rich butter crust that should be on everyone’s “must order” list when visiting any of the restaurant’s locations. Overall a case of a famous place not happy to rest on its laurels but instead turning out great food and service from start to finish I only hope Tupelo Honey maintains its standards as it expands…and if it can, then I hope to see one in a town near me soon because southern food of this quality just isn’t common enough in most states.

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https://tupelohoneycafe.com/

Posted in Asheville, Bread Basket, Crab, Dessert, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Tupelo Honey Cafe, Vacation

Hard Knox Pizzeria, Knoxville TN

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Hard Knox Pizzeria

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Monte Cristo Flatbread – Prosciutto, Smoked Mozzarella, Cheddar, Powdered Sugar, Strawberry Jam

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Marciano – Red Sauce, Fresh Mozzarella, Extra Virgin olive Oil, Basil

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Sweet Pea – Smoked Mozzarella, Prosciutto, Blue Cheese, Clover Honey, Olive Oil

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Smores – Nutella, Mini Marshmallows, Crushed Graham Crackers

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Key Lime Cannoli

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A drive from Asheville back to Knoxville (and then back to Asheville) to gather up the family would lead us to East Tennessee’s Hard Knox Pizzeria, a pizzeria whose combination of a hickory fired stone oven, well-aged doughs, and unique toppings had many claiming it the best pizza in the city if not the entire state. A small space located in a rather non-descript strip mall with an order-up-front and find a seat approach to service it would not take long after perusing the menu to decide on four small pies with four slices each and watching the team construct each item by hand before a quick trip to the 750 degree oven it would be no more than fifteen minutes before the selections arrived. Obviously wishing to experience the most pure of options and thus starting with the Margherita-esque Marciano I was admittedly impressed by the toothsome spring of the crust, though a bit more char would have been nice, and with excellent tomato sauce plus ample cheese the slight tang from the fermentation came through nicely on the finish. Moving right along to a folded pizza thus termed a ‘flatbread’ sandwich alongside the ‘sweet pea’ a few members of the party found the thick-cut prosciutto to be a bit too salty but from my standpoint, particularly when balanced against honey or strawberry jam and the truly impressive smoked cheese I thought both selections were the standouts of the afternoon. Clearly focused more on the sweet side of Hard Knox than the savory our meal would finish with a dessert pizza and a tangy key lime canolli filled a la minute and topped with crumbled graham crackers – the former particularly benefitting from a bit of extra time in the oven to truly burn the marshmallows while the later was an innovative twist on a classic.

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http://www.hardknoxpizza.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Hard Knox, Hard Knox Pizzeria, Italian, Knoxville, Pizza, Pork, Tennessee, Vacation