Endo Edibles

March 18, 2016
5:44 PM
by: Uhockey

T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge, Las Vegas NV

T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge

Banana Nut Bread Martini – Frangelico, Banana Liquer, Sugar Island Spiced Rum, Egg White, Fresh Sour Mix, Cinnamon-Sugar Rim

Bread Basket – Cheese Lavash, Pretzel Bread, Bacon Cheese Roll, Walnut & Raisin, Sourdough, Butter with Hawaiian Sea Salt and Olive Oil

French Onion Soup – Sweet Texas Onions, Swiss, Gruyere, Parmigianino Reggiano, Toasted Bread

Shrimp Tempura – Spicy Yuzu Mayo

Crab Cake – Jumbo Lump Crab, Cajun Remoulade, Baby Frisee, Citrus

Perfect Poutine – Hand Cut French Fries, Duck Confit Gravy, Crispy Duck Skin, Maytag Blue Cheese

Steakhouse Salad – Romaine, Avocado, Tomato, Apple Wood Bacon, Gorgonzola, White French Dressing

Buttermilk Fried Chicken – Traditional Fried Chicken Breast, Homestyle Sage Gravy

New York Steak Supreme Oscar – Niman Ranch 28-day Wet Aged Prime Beef, Day Boat Maine Lobster, Asparagus, Béarnaise

Hash Brown – Russet Potatoes, Caramelized Onions

Au Gratin Potatoes – Smoked Cheddar, Bacon, Poblano Peppers, Crunchy Cheddar Gratinee

Crimini Mushrooms – Red Wine Braised, Fines Herbs

Cream Corn – Sweet White Corn, Parmesan Crumbs

Double Espresso on Ice

Chocolate Soufflé – Crème Anglaise

Cheesecake – Traditional New York Style, Cream Cheese

Carrot Cake – Cream Cheese Icing, Pecans

Warm Butter Toffee Cake – Toffee Sauce, Crème Fraiche Ice Cream

Ricotta Beignets – Cheesecake Ice Cream, Yuzu and Orange Curd, Toasted Oat Crumble

Chocolate Macaroon, Lemon Financier

Toqued by Chef Mike Deas with input from Red Rock Assistant Executive Chef Joseph Kudrak, formerly from Glutton, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge is one of those places easily overlooked by Las Vegas visitors as well as locals, a recent dinner on an early Friday evening leaving one to wonder exactly why, and how to get the word out?

More tucked away than Hearthstone, Lucille’s or The Buffet and Grand Café, a nearly 200 seat footprint overlooking the Red Rock pool with high ceilings, fireplaces and plenty of polish, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge both looks and feels like many On-Strip casino Steakhouses, but taking a few more risks with the menu than several the experience is presented as one also more affordable, the price-point not dissimilar to nearby Andiron, Fleming’s or Morton’s.

Retaining several of its well-mannered Captains from early on, the restaurant’s professional-friendly service style reportedly a focus of the Fertitta family who own Station Casinos and visit often, dinner was served in a Prix-fixe fashion and with Chefs Kudrak as well as Deas present that evening the meal was nothing short of a feast for the senses, a $300 tab for sixteen appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts plus one heck of a cocktail and a bread basket that bests any seen recently on Las Vegas Boulevard.

Acknowledging a friend’s two-hour time limit, tickets to the UNLV Opera requiring departure just before Seven o’clock, it was at a large semi-circular booth that the meal got started and with greetings from GM Christopher Jurchenkoit was not long before service was underway, the opening trio seeing lightly battered shrimp given a Chinatown treatment while steakhouse staples of French Onion Soup and Crabcakes were as good as any in the city, the former faintly sweet with plenty of bubbling cheese while the “cake” was almost pure crab with bright aromatics of paprika, onion and cayenne in the binder.

A bit off-put by the noise emanating from the bar, a combination of March Madness revelry, Friday Happy Hour and music piped in from the Gaming Floor, round two followed quickly and although fresh-cut potatoes could have been more crispy, “Perfect Poutine” was quite a bargain at just $10 when taking into account all the confit, cheese and skin, the Steakhouse Salad equally well constructed as chopped Romaine blended nicely with Avocado, Bacon and Gorgonzola beneath creamy French Dressing.

Not even 1/3 finished at this point, course three a six-piece exposition of two entrees and four sides, gone are the days of piddly portions at CUT or PRIME as Au Gratin Potatoes, Hashbrowns, Mushrooms and Creamed Corn are all built for sharing, as too is the two-piece Fried Chicken with Sage Gravy while the Beef selections range from American Wagyu to New York Prime from Niman Ranch, the latter in our case served Medium with a topping of fresh Lobster, Asparagus and Béarnaise.

Bathed by the setting sun with blinds offering only modest relief as a result of floor-to-ceiling windows that give the room part of its grand appeal, dessert was taken to the patio as music turned live in the Lounge and although admittedly already quite sated none of the five options proved less than worth the temptation, the Carrot Cake and Soufflé both straight forward classics alongside Cheesecake that trends far lighter than most followed by indulgent blueberry donuts and a frozen parfait plus Sticky Toffee Pudding that falls just short of Gordon Ramsay’s for best in The Valley.

FOUR STARS: Easily overlooked in a city where Steakhouses rule the day, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge is a great spot for those inhabiting Summerlin to grab a Cocktail or snacks at Happy Hour and an even better one for al fresco patio dining, the price point more favorable than spots on The Strip while the menu outpaces other places nearby in terms of both creativity and quality of sourcing.

RECOMMENDED: Bread Basket, French Onion Soup, Tempura Shrimp, Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Crimini Mushrooms, Cheesecake, Ricotta Beignets.

AVOID: Hash Browns and Carrot Cake were both fine, while better can be found elsewhere. As mentioned, French Fries could have used a bit more time in the fryer to withstand the gravy.

TIP: Happy Hour 4-7pm daily, dinner starts at 5:oopm. MyVegas users can play to win “Spend 60, Get 30 off” certificates.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

https://redrock.sclv.com/Dining/T-bones-Chophouse

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Lobster, Macaroon, Nevada, Pork, Souffle, T-Bones, T-Bones Chophouse, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge, Tasting Menu

March 12, 2016
7:09 PM
by: Uhockey

Chef Series #2 at Inyo Asian Restaurant, Las Vegas NV

Inyo Asian Restaurant

sparkling sake and shiso

kanpachi sashimi – sliced amberjack with serrano chili, yuzu kosho, tobiko & house ponzu

28 day dry aged wagyu carpaccio – aged stilton blue cheese, honey soy mustard seed & micro chives

smoked foie rinds – crispy togarashi pork rinds with yuzu honey & shaved smoked foie gras

drake duck jam – confit duck leg “pho flavor” with fresh herbs, bean sprout & sesame cracker

kurobuta pulled pork – cherry smoked with watercress, pickled red onion, bao’s & kentuckyaki bbq

scallop “dynamite” – live scallop, spinach & mushroom baked in house masago sauce

octo-cargot – broiled spanish octopus baked escargot style with garlic, shiro miso & herb butter panko

shumai – house made black tiger prawn & bamboo dumplings with spicy soy mustard

yari ika squid – char-grilled whole sword squid with garlic soy butter

squid ink & uni fried rice – squid legs & santa barbara sea urchin sautéed with garlic, lemon & squid ink

whole crispy fried sea bass – chinese style with ginger, scallion & soy

green tea & uni – green tea panna cotta & uni white chocolate gelato, cigar coconut cola tuille, nori rice cracker & sake ponzu reduction

Selected for the second installment of Chef Series, a group formed at the start of this year with the intention of bringing like-minded local diners together at restaurants justifying more attention in a Las Vegas dining scene often clouded by those touting “new is best,” twenty-four persons sat down at Inyo Asian Restaurant on Saturday evening where owner Peter Chen played host and server while Chef Gregg Fortunato sent forth a twelve course spread.

Lengthy in size, though the kitchen itself is quite small, Inyo has dropped the “Asian Variety” naming since a first visit one year before and although easily lost amidst so much Spring Mountain Road competition there is little doubt that the menu remains both unique and aggressive, a board of daily specials joining printed favorites to comprise the meal our group encountered Carte Blanche.

Garnering some accolades from the local media, most recently a glowing article in The Review-Journal, Inyo’s dining area remains stark but tasteful and although the beeps and buzzes of overhead techno can play on nerves after a while the service certainly ups the ante on other nearby places, as to does the ingredient quality used.

Starting out with sweet sake plus a warm towel it was just past 7pm as the whole group was seated that course number one arrived, and with all plating done family style several slices of tender kanpachi immediately enlivened the palate beneath sliced peppers and light ponzu, the flavors no less impressive than that at places like Nobu while a follow-up of dry-aged Wagyu upped the intrigue significantly with Stilton adding a bit of funk mellowed by honey-glazed mustard seed, soy sauce, and diced chives.

Using the rich beef as a springboard to several more hearty plates, the focus here certainly not sushi and sashimi as some may assume, courses three and four presented crispy pig skins topped in shaved foie gras and confit duck, respectively, the makeshift ‘pho’ marred by not enough rice crackers for sharing while Pig Skins made believers out of those not particularly sold on the concept through the use of creamy liver helping meld sweet heat to smoke.

Again doing a disservice to diners by presenting Cherrywood smoked Kurobuta Pork with too few Bao to be tasted without overloading each steamed bun with meat, a sixth plate saw “Yum-Yum” Scallops given a substantial upgrade by using fresh Mollusks beneath a tangy sauce teaming with mushrooms, a bit of white rice dearly desired to assist with soaking up the flavors, but not provided as a rush to plate seven left little time to consider such things.

Wishing the “octo-cargot” would have been as well crafted as it was clever – the garlic, miso and breadcrumbs completely overwhelming broiled octopus that could have just as easily been snails, fish or even tofu – housemade shumai saw the menu once again righted, black tiger prawns lightly wrapped with great flavor even though many chose to eschew spicy mustard.

Next presenting tender, charred Yari Ika generously brushed in Soy Butter before offering a bowl of black rice that unfortunately saw little added by a tongue of uni, although great texture was imparted by small bits of scallop dispersed amongst the grains, savories were rounded out by a whole Sea Bass served with beautiful simplicity, the dessert crafted by Gelatology’s Desyree Alberganti full of fun and creativity as salinity gave way to sweetness atop varied textures with a finish that was both light and refreshing.

THREE AND A HALF STARS: Planning the menu over a month in advance with most of the items served on regular rotation, Chef Series #2 at Inyo Asian Restaurant was a great chance to take a look at what Gregg and Peter are trying to create, a whole lot of great stuff with even simple plates thrilling, though small issues in presentation indicate kinks that still need to be worked out.

RECOMMENDED: Smoked Foie Rinds, Wagyu Carpaccio, Scallop Dynamite, Yari Ika Squid.

AVOID: Octo-Cargot and Squid Ink Uni Fried Rice were misses while, as served, the Kurobuta pork and Duck Jam were also compromised.

TIP: Open Tuesday to Sunday 5pm to 2am, Happy Hour Tuesday to Sunday 5pm to 6pm + 9pm – 1am, Closed Monday.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://www.inyolv.com/

Posted in #chefseries, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Gelatology, Ice Cream, Inyo, Inyo Asian Restaurant, Inyo Asian Variety, Inyo Asian Variety Restaurant, Las Vegas, Nevada, Octopus, Pork, Sushi, Tasting Menu

March 12, 2016
10:58 AM
by: Uhockey

Hexx Kitchen + Bar [3,] Las Vegas NV

Hexx Kitchen + Bar

Peete’s Coffee

Carrot Cake Pancakes – Spice Batter, Carrots, Cream Cheese Frosting, Candied Walnuts

Cinnaroll Waffle – Cream Cheese Frosting, Cinnamon, Sugar

Fresh Fruit Plate – Banana Bread Muffins, Dragon Fruit, Strawberries, Blueberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Pears, Apples, Pineapple, Mango, Papaya, Grapes, Banana

Banana Creme Pie – Banana Pudding, Roasted Banana Brulee, Sweetened Whipped Cream, Vanilla Cookie Crunch

Single Origin Chocolate Bread Pudding – Shaved Coconut, Ecuadorian Chocolate Chunks, Brioche, Coconut Milk, Mango Sauce

Butterscotch Creme Brulee – Butterscotch Custard, Berries, Cacao Nib Cookie Crumble

Perhaps the best place for al fresco dining in Las Vegas, it seemed only right to celebrate a sunny March Birthday Brunch at Hexx Kitchen + Bar, and with Chef Matt Piekarski agreeing to temporarily “un-retire” the Carrot Cake Pancakes the experience progressed just the same as that at Christmas with food as fun and well-crafted as ever while the team of a dozen servers circulated the 350+ seat dining room floor.

No doubt a space with purpose, the jammed-packed dining room a tourist friendly place for 24/7 eating that helps to fuel HeXX Chocolate Bean-to-Bar operation running behind the scenes, it was with reservations circumventing a 45-minute wait at 11am on Saturday that seating was offered in the patio’s corner pocket, the menu seeing some recent updates with some classics undergoing seasonal or, at least structural, change.

Repeatedly refilling Peete’s Coffee, the strong brew always piping hot with sugar and cream eschewed as the morning’s order would require something dark to counteract all the sweets, it was at the recommendation of Manager Ari Stotland that the recently elongated Fruit Plate started things off, and serving a slightly sized-down version compared to the monster made for sharing the quality of produce remains exemplary, pineapples and dragon fruit particularly delicious alongside mini-muffins of warm banana bread.

Slowly plucking individual pieces of fruit while taking in the crowd, everyone from a Hair-of-the-Dog craving group of bridesmaids to a table of three folks aged at least eighty enjoying the sunny 65°F, it was with a grin that Chef Piekarski arrived tableside with two enormous plates of carbohydrates, and as good as fluffy waffle segments beneath a mountain of cream cheese frosting may be they still pale in comparison to the quality of the Carrot-strewn Pancakes, the buttermilk batter enlivened by spices while candied nuts provide an intermittent crunchy reward.

Conveniently offering the full dessets menu all day and night, the HeXX website fails to do justice to Chef Carol Garcia’s recently reinvented array, and although several options featuring Chocolate are, of course, advisable one would be foolish to pass on a more diversified sampling, the Banana Cream Pie rivaling that of Emeril for Best in the City while Creme Brulee presents more like a candy coated Butterscotch Budino, the Ecuadorian Chocolate Bread Pudding smooth and creamy with Coconut Milk in a portion that all but the most gluttonous will definitely want to share.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Marred only by the fact that the Carrot Cake Pancakes require a special request, HeXX remains the very best 24/7 space in a city where such things are not for lack, the food and service far better than they really need to be while a world-class Chocolate program continues to grow in back.

RECOMMENDED: Butterscotch Creme Brulee, Banana Cream Pie, Carrot Cake Pancakes.

AVOID: Expecting a patio seat when walking in during peak hours on weekends.

TIP: Be sure to check out the retail shop for a selection of single-origin HeXX chocolate Ice Creams made in partnership with Atlanta-based High Road.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor
http://www.hexxlasvegas.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Hexx, Hexx Kitchen + Bar, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Waffle

March 11, 2016
6:48 PM
by: Uhockey

Le Cirque [8,] Las Vegas NV

Le Cirque

Chocolat Bisous – Stoli Vanil, Valrhona Chocolate, Vanilla Ice Cream, Godiva White Chocolate Liquer, Praline Rim

Rosemary Focaccia, Bacon Cheddar, Coffee White Chocolate, Sourdough, Pretzel, Baguette, Walnut Raisin, Salted/Unsalted Butter

Treasure Box – Green Cheese and Goat Cheese Tartlet / Hamachi, Squid Ink Cracker, Hearts of Palm, Avocado, Radish (Concept)

Maryland Blue Crab – Wild Golden Osetra Caviar, Dungeness Crab, Avocado, Apple, Salmon Roe, Gold Leaf

Prime Beef Tenderloin Steak Tartare – Black Truffles, Caper Berries, Quail Egg, Fines Herbs with Toasted Baguette

Warm Chestnut Soup – Porcini Cream, Farm Egg Confit, Beech Mushroom Preserve, Chestnut Cake, Black Truffles

Sauteed Foie Gras – Apple “Tartine,” Cabbage Croquant, Sauteed Cabbage, Cider and Calvados Sauce

Atlantic Turbot – Flavors of the Spring Garden, Green Tea Powder, Pomelo, Chamomile

Gold Crusted Quail – Farci au Foie Gras, Potato Mousseline, Black Truffle “Leaves,” Sauce Perigord

Japanese A5 Wagyu Beef Striploin – Braised Oxtail Croquette, Marrow, King Trumpet Mushroom, Leek, Sauce Vert

Sangria (Concept)

Double Espresso on Ice

Malted Milk Panna Cotta – Earl Grey Tapioca, Blood Orange Gelee, Orange Segments, Honeycomb Bon Bons, Milk Snow

Red Velvet Cheesecake – Mascarpone Cheese, Beet Cake,Verjus Grapes, Candied Beets, Balsamic Ice Cream / Sugar Cookies, Chocolate, Coffee, Vanilla, Hazelnut Gelato

Chocolate Souffle – Vanilla Ice Cream, Crème Anglaise

An unapologetic supporter of Le Cirque for years, the restauran’s tireless effort to improve on something that has been outstanding for over a decade always inspiring in a city where so many other spaces have shuttered, rebranded or simply stuck to the status quo, it was once again at the luminated bar that I chose to spend a special evening, Chef Wilfried Bergerhausen setting the evening Carte Blanche with a few new tricks up his talented sleeves.

Having already spoken of the team in prior posts, Ivo Angelov still running the best front of house in town, it was at the service of a temporary young female bartender that the celebration took place and starting with the decadent Chocolat Bisous the meal that followed was one to be remembered, all twelve courses either new, tweaked or reimagined since my last visit with the sort of sauces and presentations that led to a whole lot of plate-mopping with a variety of warm bread.

Making conversation with several guests throughout the course of a three hour stay, the semicircular spot a gathering place for may before or after dinner or a show, course one was presented as a concept for upcoming canapes with a whole lot of promise while the following offered Las Vegas’ best dish given VIP Treatment, the traditional black eggs replaced by Wild Golden Osetra Caviar whose buttery-clean finish was *almost* too rich to be taken in such a portion, the very definition of luxury.

Acknowledging the lengthy truffle season in follow up, both the tender tartare and beautifully executed veloute with pickled mushrooms and a butter-confit egg imbued by the fungi’s rich aromatic notes, course five saw the young chef send out a dish that harkened Michel Gueard’s work at Michelin 3* Les Pres d’Eugenie, the Sauteed Liver of Duck turned part savory by Calvados and spiced Apples while a crisp of purple Cabbage and stewed base of similar helped ground the dish in savory, each bite as unique and compelling as the one before.

Starting to think Spring at the menu’s midpoint, a filet of Turbot perfectly roasted amidst Carrots of varying textures and colors with Matcha plus Chamomile proving a surprisingly refreshing accent atop the sweet acidity of Pomelo Cells, the Gold Crusted Quail has recently found itself upgraded in artistry while the flavor remains as rich as any, the ‘branches’ of pommes puree gently dropping their black truffle ‘leaves.’

Unable to resist showing off the Wagyu once again, two unctuous ounces served alongside a croquette of oxtail plus smoky vegetables and a cylinder of marrow all kept in check by forest green Bearnaise, a new idea for cleansing the palate was next featured in the form of alcohol-free Sangria, the hollow White Chocolate shell spilling its liquid center to the slightest tooth pressure with a flavor that was indeed delicious, though perhaps a touch too sweet.

Thinking that all of the desserts at Le Cirque had now been tasted it was a bit of a surprise that the Panna Cotta from a prior Pastry Chef had not yet come my way and although perhaps a bit ‘out of place’ on a French menu with flavors reminiscent of milky British Tea the texture was both as creamy and elegant as any, the Tapioca pearls and Honeycomb raising the bar for the dish by several degrees.

Still impressing with a Cheesecake that is well suited to fans of sweet and savory alike thanks to the use of Beets as well as Balsamic, it seemed only proper that such a meal end with Le Cirque’s reference standard Chocolate Souffle, the rise even taller than ever with a flavor that continues to be amongst the most robust ever experienced despite a texture not-insultingly best described as Reddi-Wip soft.

FIVE STARS: At this point the longest tenured Chef amongst his peers at Robuchon, Gagnaire or Savoy one wonders just how high the ceiling is for Chef Bergerhausen while at the same time praying that MGM is interested in discovering exactly the same thing.

RECOMMENDED: Making reservations in advance if you want a dining room table.

AVOID: Passing up a chance to dine at the bar if a table cannot be accommodated when walking in.

TIP: Previously unknown to me, Le Cirque offers a Shellfish and Caviar Menu with a Whole-Lobe of Foie Gras seasonal prepared for the table at a cost of $240.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

https://www.bellagio.com/en/restaurants/le-cirque.html

Posted in Bread Basket, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Le Cirque, Nevada, Pork, Souffle, Tasting Menu, Truffles

March 11, 2016
5:40 PM
by: Uhockey

Drago Sisters Bakery [2,] Las Vegas NV

Drago Sisters Bakery

Snickerdoodle, Oatmeal Raisin, Chocolate Chip Cookie

Walnut Caramel Brownie

Seven Layer Bar

Banana Cream Pie

Salted Caramel Cupcake

Tres Leches Cake

Located just South of the 215 on Rainbow Blvd and last visited in December 2013 it was actually a birthday cake purchased to celebrate 36 that prompted a return to Drago Sisters Bakery, little changed at the small shop in the past 27 months with the Tres Leches still a showstopper while the rest is fine, though rarely great.

Showing some signs of its age, the worn doors plus pulled blinds at 4:15pm at first making one wonder if the Bakery is open as the setting sun can apparently become quite intense inside, Drago Sisters still seems to generate a whole lot of foot traffic despite a small stripmall footprint and with several families making purchases as I perused, the cupcakes remain a popular option, almost a dozen varieties on offer though the cleverly decorated Salted Caramel version given as a gift to me was itself quite dry and flavorless.

Opting for a half-dozen novel options, the Cupcakes, Boston Cream Pie and Macarons previously tried, a trio of cookies from Drago Sisters jars offer a decennt value for the money even if none were particularly “memorable,” the $4.75 Cream Pie far, far less so as the crust was desnse and pasty while the interior contained not a single chunk of banana but instead a mildly sweet “pudding” that may or may not have contained a bit of natural banana at all.

Somehow deciding that Brownies justified nearly $5 each one could not help but wonder just how good they would be, and although the Walnut and Caramel topped iteration was dense with quality chocolate the better bet was, in fact, the more affordable Seven-Layer Bar with a buttery Graham Cracker crust beneath the flavors of Bittersweet plus White Chocolate Chips, Butterscotch, and toasted Coconut flakes.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: Holding onto tradition as the rest of Las Vegas and Henderson have seen the pastry scene stepped up substantially, Drago Sisters still serves the best Tres Leches Cake I have ever tasted while the rest of the options seem overpriced and underwhlming for what they are.

RECOMMENDED: Tres Leches Cake, Seven Layer Bar.

AVOID: Salted Caramel Cupcake, Banana Cream Pie.

TIP: 8a-6p Monday through Saturday, call, visit or go online for special orders.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Home

Posted in cupcake, Dessert, Drago Sisters, Drago Sisters Bakery, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

March 5, 2016
6:16 PM
by: Uhockey

Andre’s Restaurant & Lounge [2,] Las Vegas NV

Andre’s Restaurant & Lounge

Welcome Champagne

Veal Consomee with Black Truffles

Brioche and Baguette with Butter

Marti Foie – Foie Gras and Vodka, Honey Tahitian Vanilla, Candied Walnuts, Pear Sorbet, Apples, Fruit Salad

Pork Rillette – Pepper Relish, Toasted Baguette

Caponata – Eggplant, Roasted Peppers, Toasted Baguette

Boudin Blanc Sausage – Apple and Pork Sauce, Puff Pastry

2011 Chateau Lamothe Guignard Sauternes

Pan Seared Foie Gras – Rhubarb Streusel, Vanilla and Honey Marshmallow, Aged Balsamic Reduction

French Onion Soup – Gruyere, Toasted Baguette, Au Gratin

Foie Gras Terrine – Huckleberry Compote, Toasted Petite Brioche

2013 Sancere

Fried Frog Legs – Rosemary and Parsley Persillade

2012 Domaine Laroche Chablis, 2012 Joseph Drouhin Chorey-Les-Beaune

Classic Dover Sole Amandine – Pommes Puree, Vegetable Roulade

Pan Seared Duck Breast – Duck Jus, Spiced Duck and Foie Gras Sausage, Forbidden Rice, Salsify Puree and Chips, Orange Chutney

Sweet Potato Spaetzle

Sandeman 20 Year Tawny Port

Cheese Plate – Four Fat Fouls St. Stephen, Rivers Edge Beltane, Camembert au Calvados du Graindorge, Pickled Pluots, Olives, Fig Preserves, Pepper Gastrique, Toasted Baguette, Crackers

Double Espresso with Ice

Carrot Cake Souffle – Cream Cheese Anglaise

Salted Caramel Chocolate Fondant – Brown Butter Pecan Ice Cream and Warm Bourbon Sauce

Meyer Lemon and Raspberry Profitteroles – Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Vanilla Poached Pear – Chocolate Mousse with Coffee Chicory Ice Cream

Amaretti Crusted Cheesecake – Black Currant and Pomegranate

Drunken Cherries, Mint Chocolate Truffle

Having recently returned to Alize for a meal that was good, but again marred by service errors and a clientele that often lacks the class befitting such cuisine, it was with high hopes that I sat down to dinner in Andre Rochat’s eponymous Monte Carlo dining room where a more serene space saw Chef Christopher Bulen send forth a feast worth feting, all four courses as refined as the environs with several classics still capable of eliciting wows.

Bearing Andre’s name, but assuredly Bulen’s kitchen as the young Chef reinvigorates the menu seasonally with new concepts joining Rochat’s classic French plates, it was with pleasant smiles that myself and a friend were greeted at the hostess stand and led through the bar to a table dressed in linen an a la carte experience was almost entirely self-selected, the welcoming glasses of bubbly soon followed by an amuse of Veal Broth perfumed in Black Truffles plus fresh baked Bread with Butter, my companion easily encouraged to indulge in the signature “Marti Foie” that was every bit as lovely as I’d remembered.

Far less ridiculously priced than the imported French giants at Caesars’ or MGM, several items from the $10 “Small Plates” section actually a bargain when taking into account both quality and amount, those looking for something vegetarian are highly encouraged to consider peppery Caponata while omnivores may wish to experience garlic laced frog legs that slip straight from bone to palate, Christopher’s passion for housemade meats showing in supple white sausage or creamy pork spread, the former served along with ethereal puff pastry and one of three sausages made in house daily.

Again offering a complimentary education in wine pairings, the prior visit actually leaving me a bit overwhelmed given a low tolerance, slow sips were taken of small pours including an outstanding 2011 Sauternes that arrived to announce two highly anticipated plates, the Classic French Onion Soup more classic and meaty than Mark Purdy’s at Alize but a bit lost in the mix when set next to seared Foie Gras plus a Terrine, the latter ‘au naturale’ with jam and toast for spreading while the warm steak saw the caramelized exterior give way to silken luxury, the combination of Rhubarb Streusel, melted Marshmallow and Balsamic faintly reminiscent of Peanut Butter and Jelly.

Taking one classic, one favorite and a generous $9 side of Sweet Potato Spaetzle for the final round of savories it was admittedly a bit disappointing that the Dover Sole was presented under a silver dome rather than being fileted table-side, but with that quibble noted it certainly did not detract from the moist flesh and light sauce Amandine, the rosy Duck undoubtedly a more hearty plate with dark rice sopping up all the pan jus as encased liver and force meat used delicate spicing to impart levity in a truly rich sausage.

Personally well sated as my dining partner questioned just how many bites he had left it was at the Chef’s suggestion that three ‘new-to-me’ cheeses were presented along with 20 Year Tawny Port, the Beltane offering creamy complexity well matched to the accoutrements while Camembert washed in Calvados was quite pungent unless appreciated bite for bite with pickled fruit or fig jam.

Offering desserts from Tammy Alana, easily one of the most under-appreciated names working in pastry nationwide, there was little doubt after the Cadbury masterpiece of Easter 2014 that a Souffle had to be ordered, the cloudy ‘carrot cake’ cleverly complimented with cream cheese Anglaise while four more sweets also joined the party, a poached pear not exactly my favorite when paired to chocolate while the Cheesecake bathed in fruit syrup ate several times lighter than any “New York” version, the Bourbon tinged Fondant expectedly rich as a trio of Raspberry Profitteroles crackled to the tooth atop Meyer Lemon Cream.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Enlivened by Louis Armstrong and Frank Sinatra in a room that looks upscale without feeling ‘old’ or out of touch, Andre’s remains every bit as good as the rest of Las Vegas’ formal French restaurants at less than one-half the tariff, Bulen and Alana both adding considerably to a classic white tablecloth space that never feels ‘stuffy’ or pretentious at all.

RECOMMEDED: Caponata, Boudin Blanc, Pan Seared Foie Gras, Duck Breast, Carrot Cake Souffle, Meyer Lemon and Raspberry Profitteroles.

AVOID: My take on the Vanilla Poached Pear was marred by a distaste for fruit and chocolate desserts while the French Onion Soup is good but ordinary, capacity better saved for other things.

TIP: Currently offering several specials, Small Plates and several Happy Hour bargains plus an interesting $60 Prix-Fixe for Mlife Members, those looking for great meal in a hurry or on a budget are encouraged to stop by the bar.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://andrelv.com/

Posted in Andre's, Andre's Restaurant & Lounge, Bread Basket, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Souffle, Truffles

March 5, 2016
11:28 AM
by: Uhockey

Artisanal Foods Cafe, Las Vegas NV

Artisanal Foods Cafe

Jack’s Hard Peach Cider

Pacific Gold Oysters – Cucumber, Ginger, Asian Pear, Fresh Wasabi Mignonette

Sunny Side Up Quail Eggs – Hackleback Caviar, Smoked Sturgeon, Shaved Red Onions,Toast Points

Octopus Sirloin Carpaccio – Black Garlic, Caper Vinaigrette

Jamon Iberico Omelet – Truffle Gouda Cheese

3rd Street Market Tomatoes, Compressed Melon, Housemade Fresh Mozzarella

Tre Swine Ye – Chorizo, Bacon Wrapped Porchetta, Smoked Iberico Ham, Geechie Boy Grits, Poached Egg

4×4 Egg Sandwich – Sausage, Aged Cheddar Sauce

Chicken Sandwich – Sous-Vide Truffle Stuffed Thigh, Dijonaise, House Pickles

Snickerdoodle French Toast – Goat Cheese, Brioche, Michigan Cherry Compote, Harry’s Berries

Gelatology – Chocolate Croissant, Foie Gras, Lemon Pound Cake, Pistachio Baklava Gelato

Foie Gras Short Stack – Grapes, Raisins, Sweet Wine Glaze

Church Family Creamsicle Cake

Now open for almost half a year, but still flying under the radar despite glowing press, stunning value and a Chef that continues to raise the bar with each successive step in his career, it was with another highly skilled member of the local culinary community that I sat down at Artisanal Foods Cafe to check out the new Brunch menu, several of the plates featuring the sort of innovation that critics of Las Vegas would claim can only be found hundreds of miles away.

Owned and operated by Brett Ottolenghi, a man whose passion for providing the very best ingredients to local homes and kitchens is virtually unmatched, with the culinary talents of John Church on display for a few tables dispersed amidst the market, Artisanal Foods Cafe has slowly transitioned from a ticketed ‘event’ to one more amenable to walk-ins and although a set menu is indeed offered it was instead carte blanche that two-top dined, the kitchen and service staff having grown to accommodate several other patrons with Chef Church himself providing the soundtrack as well as lengthy descriptions of each plate.

Gifted a Peach Hard Cider from Brett’s family Orchard plus complimentary bottled water repeatedly filled as the twelve-course meal took place, round one featured a half-dozen Oysters pulled from their native waters less than 36-hours earlier and although personally rare to order such things, while my table-mate was something of a local expert, the briny bivalves were actually amongst the best I’ve ever tasted, the liquor tempered by sweet n’ spicy Mignonette while the muscle itself finished smooth and clean.

Using items from the store for obvious reasons, Smoked Sturgeon given a visual manifestation with several juveniles swimming in a nearby tank, course two saw John send out a Sunny-side composition of Quail’s Eggs topped in Paddlefish Caviar plus shaved Red Onions, the flavors undoubtedly bold yet traditional with buttered toast points made for dipping or, perhaps better, as a delivery device.

Not one to take the easy route, a lengthy process elaborated upon when describing plate three, none but Vegetarians should leave Artisanal Foods Cafe without sampling the Octopus Sirloin Carpaccio, each ‘surf & turf’ slice so thin that it melts on the tongue while flavors come across with a robustness more than capable of standing up to toppings of Black Garlic and Caper Vinaigrette.

Coursing the menu with pacing and an evolution of flavors that evidenced Chef Church’s roots in fine dining, the next two plates focused on the purity of their ingredients prepared simply, a fluffy omelet folded around truffled Gouda with curls of Spanish Iberico eating like a cloud of rich flavors while the subsequent salad featured bright Tomatoes and Melons from the 3rd Street Market with flecks of black Kala Namak salt complimenting warm Mozzarella made moments prior in the Cafe.

Using the salad as a springboard to heavier entrees the midpoint of the meal was marked by two free range Egg dishes of which Johnny seemed quite proud, and although the 4×4 was a delicious fork and knife upgrade on the classic Sausage, Egg and Cheese Sandwich the cleverly titled “Tre Swine Ye” was a veritable ode to Southern breakfasts as Chorizo and Smoked Ham enriched buttery Geechie Boy Grits anchored by Bacon-wrapped Porchetta.

Unable to resist adding his truffle-packed sous-vide Chicken Thigh to brunch, in this instance fried atop a toasted roll with housemade Spread and Pickles, a bridge to sweets was next brought forth in the form of pan-seared French Toast coated in crushed Snickerdoodle cookies, the sugar held in check by chevre while California Strawberries found an amicable partnership with Cherry compote from the Chef’s home state.

Now selling Desyree Albergant’s world-class Gelato at Artisanal Foods, a four-pack of flavors sent out to ready the palate for two more plates, one would be challenged to name a frozen confection better than Gelatology’s Lemon Pound Cake or Chocolate Croissant, a silky duck liver quenelle far better than one experienced previously at a Michelin 3* establishment offering smooth transition to a “short stack” of pillowy pancakes topped with a steak of Foie Gras amidst varieties of Grapes and dessert Wine Glaze.

Incorporating several personal touches into his cooking it was to a family favorite that Johnny turned to end the afternoon, and although I grew up less than an hour from the Chef’s hometown my childhood was never blessed by a dessert quite like the moist orange and white Marble Cake that reminisced of Push-Ups or Hostess’ Orange Cupcakes with a far more natural flavor and icing as light as whipped cream.

FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Charged a tab that was no doubt a bargain given both the amount of food and quality of ingredients involved it bears mention that even the menu prices at Artisanal Foods Cafe offer an unheard of value considering the sort of creative cuisine at play, an out-of-the-way location, seating that feels a bit too ‘in the middle of a Grocery Store’ and a lack of public awareness really the only explanation as to why the restaurant is not packed each day.

RECOMMENDED: Octopus Sirloin Carpaccio, Tre Swine Ye, Snickerdoodle French Toast, Foie Gras Short Stack.

AVOID: Although I understand the reasons behind outsourcing bread it warrants mention that with ingredients this good the toast points and sandwich buns could be better if they were freshly made in house. On a personal level, more desserts or some breakfast pastries would also be nice.

TIP: Lunch is offered 10am to 2pm Tuesday through Saturday, Brunch currently the same hours on Sunday.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.

http://www.artisanalfoods.com/products/cafe

Posted in #testkitchen, #testkitchen at Artisanal Foods, Artisanal Foods, Artisanal Foods Cafe, Breakfast, Croissant, Dessert, Foie, Food, French Toast, Gelatology, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Nevada, Octopus, Pancakes, Pork, Truffles

March 5, 2016
10:37 AM
by: Uhockey

Ace Donuts [3,] Las Vegas NV

Ace Donuts

Cronut Bite

Donut Holes

Strawberry Old Fashioned

Peanut Butter Filled

Apple Fritter

Blueberry Fritter

Blueberry Crumb Cake

Pumpkin Spice Cake

Glazed Red Velvet

Visiting Ace twice, in short order, back in early 2015 it was unsurprising to find the small spot on the corner of Fort Apache and Tropicana still turning out Las Vegas’ best Donuts this past Saturday, the same two smiling Korean women greeting patrons while décor has improved and the selection has diversified.

Stopping at Ace en route to the Strip, artwork and LCD Menus now hanging above a glass cases with a bevy of classics plus several racks containing more to satisfy demand it was after a brief exchange minimally complicated by language barriers that two boxes were procured and delivering one to a local Chef in order to show off the strength of their Fritters the other half of the order was saved all for myself, a pair of old favorites joined by five more.

Treated to complimentary donut holes and cronut bites, both as good as can be found anywhere in town, the rewards for early arrival at Ace are reaped in the form of several warm options fresh from the fryer and using this to guide the tasting first bites of the Pumpkin Spice Cake showed a soft, greaseless base with rich notes of nutmeg beneath light glaze while the Red Velvet was a rich with cocoa despite the dainty texture of the bright red base.

Thrilled again by the fritters, crisp and glazed on the exterior with plenty of fruit within, bites of blueberry cake topped with buttery streusel put a new spin on the classic while the sour cream old fashioned wheel melted slowly on the tongue beneath a sugary strawberry shellack.

A veritable bargain at $20.62 for fifteen great pieces of fried dough it was last but not least that the lone yeasted option was investigated, the wispiness of the crumb doing an admirable job of maintaining its texture despite a substantial amount of creamy peanut butter piped into the core.

FIVE STARS: The best donut shop in Las Vegas only a few weeks after opening it seems as though Ace has only gotten better over the course of it’s first year and whether one is craving a classic or something a bit more innovative it would be hard to name any place executing some many different varieties with such across-the-board consistency…and certainly not at such a price.

RECOMMENDED: Fritters, Cronuts, Old Fashioned, Blueberry Crumb Cake.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: Open at 5am Seven Days a week, advanced orders for Cronuts and Fritters now accepted by phone as both tend to sell out by noon.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

Posted in Ace Donuts, Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

March 5, 2016
10:37 AM
by: Uhockey

CRAFTkitchen [3,] Henderson NV

CRAFTkitchen

Coffee

Monkey Bread

Pecan Sticky Bun

Gluten Free Blueberry Honey Cake

Gluten Free Apple Honey Cake

White Chocolate Lemon Blueberry Scone

Kahlua Coffee Cake

Almond Kouign Amann

Banana Cream Pie

Carrot Cake Bar

Milk Chocolate Brownie

Forager Sandwich – Herbed Housemade Olive Focaccia, Grilled Vegetables, Asiago Cheese, Roasted Pepper Aioli

Chorizo Scramble Skillet – Cage Free Eggs, Chorizo, Onions, Cheddar Cheese over Smashed Potatoes and Micro Cilantro

Chocolate Waffles – Nutella, Bananas Foster, Chocolate Pop Rocks

At this point a known entity for residents of Henderson, with more eyes opening up throughout the greater Las Vegas Metro each day, Jaret Blinn’s CRAFTkitchen has continued to see new competition develop in recent months, but sticking to the theme of “Local. Quality. Eats.” while continuing a push towards creativity the space remains thriving as others struggle with egos and staff turnover while trying to maintain pace.

A family restaurant from a family man who chose to chase a dream rather than compromise his values, time and talent in the resort world for a guaranteed check, the focus of Jaret and his wife Tami on CRAFTkitchen has been the very definition of diligent since long before the restaurant opened and slowly adjusting the menu to highlight seasonality while educating the front-of-house on finer points of service the staff has evolved to one of the most warm and friendly in the city, ubiquitous smiles encouraging even those met by a long wait to stick around with a cup of coffee or a pastry.

A baker by trade but no slouch behind the stove, with a kitchen team that executes their boss’s vision with skill and speed, previous visits to CRAFTkitchem have occasionally seen small flaws in savories, but recent recent updates including a “Chorizo Scramble Skillet” that replaces Shepherd’s pie with scrambled Eggs mixed with spicy pork, onions and sharp Cheddar over crispy smashed Potatoes show a great degree of textural intigue while the “Forager Sandwich” features Jaret’s delicious Olive Focaccia with grilled vegetables from the local farmer’s market beneath a veil of Asiago and roasted Red Pepper Aioli.

Particularly impressed by the restaurant’s focus on off-menu specials, at least one sweet plus a savory rotated in weekly and occasionally praised highly enough to stick around, the first weekend of March coaxed me in to experience the trio of miniature waffles lightly imbued with cocoa powder, the topping of hazelnut spread and caramelized Bananas brought to a new level through the of Rum and the whimsical use of crackling chocolate candy.

Certainly not forgoing CRAFTkitchen’s ever evolving pastry case, at this point unrivaled by any Off-Strip in Sin City, those making their first visit to Suite 107 at 10940 South Eastern Avenue are likely to be overwhelmed by the sheer number of options and although one would be hard pressed to name a *best* option amongst such a cornucopia this most recent visit showed both the retooled Monkey Bread and Almond-filled Kouign Amann to be particularly impressive, the former served piping hot in cast iron with nuggets made of Danish scraps glistening in Caramel while the latter features the Brenton Butter Pastry piped with pureed nuts, the moisture imparted by fruit no longer at play and thus leaving behind a shattering top overlying densely stacked layers of lamination.

Temporarily retiring the exemplary Pumpkin Bread in favor of fresh fruits atop an Apple Butter imbued base that remains gluten free, those with Celiac or sensitivities are well advised to take a look at either of the two muffins as well as the Dark Chocolate Brownie or Apple Tart, those more fortunate left to decide between a gooey Sticky Bun, Banana Cream Pie Jar or a Citrus Scone with pockets of While Chocolate juxtaposing those of fresh blueberries.

FIVE STARS: While some may find fault in the name, cost, chairs or a 45 minute wait that indicates the popularity of the place more than any issue with the staff, CRAFTkitchen has nonetheless managed to impress more and more with each successive visit, the Blinn’s vision of family, community and quality visible in a way even their nearby competition cannot match.

RECOMMENDED: The Carrot Cake remains the best in Las Vegas while Monkey Bread, Almond Kouign Amann and White Chocolate Lemon Blueberry Scones are also top tier. For savories, limited by choice on this visit, it seems like anything – including the health-conscious Forager Sandwich – on that Olive Focaccia would be delicious based on the bread itself.

AVOID: If one were to quibble, the Milk Chocolate Brownie is a touch dense and fails to reach the highs set by the more fudgey dark chocolate version.

TIP: Open from 7:00am to 3:00pm with peak times early on weekends and lunches reportedly packed during the week those interested in dining in without a wait are encouraged to arrive during less obvious hours, those looking for something more ‘personal’ perhaps benefited by contacting the team directly about catering options or keeping their eyes open for upcoming special events.

WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor

http://craftkitchenlv.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, CRAFTkitchen, Dessert, Food, Henderson, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

February 27, 2016
6:57 PM
by: Uhockey

beast + bottle, Denver CO

beast + bottle

Amuse – Chicharron, Calabrian Chili, Smoked Pork Aioli

Mocktail – English Thyme, Lime, Rose Hip, Orange Blossom

Porcini Farfalle – Lamb Pancetta, Scarlet Turnip, Walnut, King Trumpet Mushroom

The Pig + Fig Flatbread – Guanciale, Gorgonzola, Baby Arugula

Pan Roasted Lamb T-Bone – Polenta, Celery, Maitake Mushroom, Kidney + Bacon, Sabayon

Chocolate Dacquoise – Peanut Vacherin, Peanut Butter Mousse, Sea Salt Caramel

Butterscotch Pudding Pie – Roasted Banana Ice Cream, Oatmeal Praline, Vanilla Anglaise

Said by some to be one of Denver’s Best Restaurants, the brother/sister team of Paul and Aileen Reilly opening beast + bottle in 2013 after Paul had brought several local kitchens to prominence since returning from the French Culinary Institute in 2004, it was as a 5:00pm Walk-in that bar seating was offered for my final meal in Denver, the results a mixed bag with some items shining while others seemed pedestrian – the excessively priced nightly special in particular leaving me underwhelmed and scratching my head.

Themed as a rustic farm-to-table concept, the Reilly’s local ties proudly promoted both in print and by the young bartender who adlibbed an elegant mocktail based on my request for “something fruity, but not too sweet,” beast + bottle is smaller than one might assume based on exterior appearances and frequently booked full several weeks in advance the brevity of the menu undoubtedly benefits the kitchen, though service still seems stretched as water frequently sits empty while plates linger under lights for minutes or longer at the pass.

Minimally decorated and prone to become loud as unnecessary music blends with voices bouncing off hard surfaces with nothing more than scarce pillars serving to separate dining room from bar, every dinner begins with a nightly amuse that saw a smear of piquant pork atop pig skin on this particular evening, the “The Pig + Fig Flatbread” almost as likely to grace every table with housemade Guanciale draped over melted Gorgonzola with just enough bitter arugula to balance the fruit preserves.

Butchering the bulk of its animals in house, nose-to-tail offerings commonly seen as nightly specials, house-extruded Farfalle with mushrooms and lamb proved nothing short of breathtaking in the setting of turnips and walnuts while the $34 “T-Bone” charged just about $10 per ounce including bone-weight, the medium sear well executed despite celery and salt overwhelming the smooth polenta and pan jus completely devoid of offal or fried pork.

No less celebrated for sweets as they are for savories, the online menu woefully out of date in describing Chef Jodi Polson’s works, there is no doubt the celebrated Chocolate Dacquoise has earned its reputation as one of the city’s best new-American classics while the Butterscotch Pudding Pie spins modern on two Southern standby’s in combination, the Roasted Banana Ice Cream almost ‘artificial’ tasting an account of its sweetness while the toasted meringue atop butter pastry filled with pudding is pleasant, but certainly not the city’s *best*.

beast + bottle

Posted in beast + bottle, beast and bottle, Colorado, Denver, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pizza, Pork, Vacation

February 27, 2016
2:19 PM
by: Uhockey

Sweet Cow Ice Cream, Denver CO

Sweet Cow Ice Cream

Samples: Oatmeal Cookie, White Grape Sorbet, Apple Sorbet, Cookie and Cream, Butter Pecan

Rum Raisin, Vermont Maple Walnut, Chocolate Peanut Butter Pretzel on a Pretzel Cone

Environmentally focused and community based, now with five locations in Colorado plus one more on the way, Sweet Cow Ice Cream seems to fall under the radar of Denver’s best places for frozen confections, but doing the “Small batch” thing since 2010 my experience at the 32nd Avenue shop was nothing short of excellent.

Located in a small Stripmall, the interior cutely decorated with several inflatable steer alongside frozen cases and Sweet Cow Swag, entrance to the store is likely to be met by smiles from one of many scoop slingers, the wide variety of flavors at first a bit daunting but easily sorted through what may as well be limitless sampling.

Not going as far off-grid as many modern Artisans, several familiar flavors offered along with seasonal sorbets and a few whimsical riffs, tastes of lactose-free options showed strong fruit notes though textures came across a bit icy, the far better bites those formulated with milk from local creameries with Butter Pecan quite appropriately named given its smoothness while the Oatmeal Cookie was texturally a lot of fun, though a bit too light in sugar or spice

Offering fresh Pretzel Cones, the $1 surcharge absolutely worthwhile for thin yet robust sheets lightly tinged in salt, it was eventually on three Sweet Cow signatures that my cone was decided, a counter at the window open for indulging in boozy rum raisin while later licks of Maple Walnut and Chocolate Peanut Butter with Pretzel bits were enjoyed from outdoor seating.

http://www.sweetcowicecream.com/

Posted in Colorado, Denver, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Sweet Cow, Sweet Cow Ice Cream, Vacation

February 27, 2016
11:49 AM
by: Uhockey

Steuben’s Food Service, Denver CO

Steuben’s Food Service

Steubie Snacks – Fried Pork Belly with Powdered Sugar

Monte Cristo – Cheddar, Swiss, Ham, Turkey, Raspberry Jam

Cast Iron French Toast with Caramel and Granola

Butterscotch Pudding

Felt by many to be a modern classic, the expansive dining space, patio and bar located not far from downtown, Steuben’s Food Service was selected for brunch on Saturday in part due to the menu, but also as a result of location, the late morning having been spent touring a few local churches after a memorable visit to the Kirkland Museum of Fine and Decorative Art.

Taking an oldschool look at the “Dining Counter” or Café concept of the 1950’s, those unaware likely to assume the restaurant has been slinging breakfast plates as far back as their grandparents’ days, Steuben’s Food Service has actually only been open since 2007, but carving out a cult following through classics invigorated by quality ingredients the menu is not for lack of options, most of it offered all-day with specials sprinkled in for variety.

Large and boisterous, the former auto garage’s patio seating necessitating a 30+ minute wait due to the unseasonably warm February day, it was inside near the back that I was seated and with everything from family meals to a baby shower taking place the scene was both busy and joyful, a pleasant young server at times flexed to other sections, but still maintain his cool and never missing a beat.

Opting to dine in courses, the Restaurant Week menu featuring Steuben’s Lobster Roll admittedly tempting, four a la carte plates were instead selected with a small bowl of “Steubie Snacks” soon to arrive, each small bit of crisp Pork Belly rolled in Powdered Sugar with tangy aioli in a sidecar, the sauce highly praised by some while I personally found it distracting and unnecessary.

Unable to resist a few more signatures, the Chicken and Waffles at an adjacent table easily large enough to share, it was after a short delay that a duo of entrees arrived and with the French Toast still steaming, thus in need of cooling, attention was turned to the traditional *Fried* Monte Cristo with two cheeses plus both meats fully accounted for, each crisp bite giving way to melty insides that were made all the more delicious by a slathering of raspberry jam.

At this point risking the roof of my mouth on French Toast, the room temperature real Maple Syrup actually caramelizing to the edges of cast iron still too hot to touch, suffice it to say that any minor injury is easily forgiven in the setting of fluffy egg bread rich with custard beneath a scoop of Granola and Fresh Berries, the portion almost too much for one and definitely something worth sharing in the presence of more diners in order to sample a wider range of Steuben’s diversity.

Tempted by desserts, though admittedly a bit full with sizable samplings from Four Friends Kitchen and Mercantile Dining & Provisions already under my belt, it was on the suggestion of my server that bites were invested in Butterscotch Pudding served Sundae-style, each smooth bite a blend of sweet and salty beneath forgivingly light whipped cream that helps to make this one of the best puddings in a city that features many.

www.steubens.com

Posted in Colorado, Denver, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Pork, Steuben's, Steuben's Food Service, Vacation

February 27, 2016
10:52 AM
by: Uhockey

Mercantile Dining & Provisions, Denver CO

Mercantile Dining & Provisions

Almond Croissant

Pain Au Raisin

Monkey Bread

Bacon Sticky Bun

Impressed by Fruition, Alex Seidel’s inspired Modern American cooking and adherence to concepts of sustainability not only delicious and inspired, but immensely respectable as well, Mercantile Dining & Provisions was nothing short of requisite for a late-morning snack during the last day in Denver, my only regret being sold out bread pudding and the fact that I did not visit sooner as I’d have liked to return for lunch or dinner, too.

Located in the dining concourse at Union Station, the still-functional downtown transportation landmark in the process of completing recent renovations and featuring some of the biggest restaurant openings of the last couple years, Mercantile Dining & Provisions is one part market and another part eatery, all three meals featuring their own distinct menus while a grab n’ go counter proves ideal for folks on their lunch hour, or even those in a hurry to catch a train.

A gorgeous space in the early morning, floor to ceiling windows bathing both dining room and kitchen in the sun’s brilliant rays, those arriving before 11am are encouraged to peruse the pastry counter before taking a look at a small but well-culled menu, the options later expanding to encompass everything from soups and salads to housemade pastas and plates more substantial, 5pm service even including “family style” dinners with offerings subject to the chef’s whim and daily market change.

Listing nearly everything by source, several items coming from Seidel’s own Fruition Farms, it was while watching the open kitchen that I stood patiently waiting in a short line where coffee and baked goods are offered, the eventual order consisting of just four items, though looking back on the day’s later meals I only wish that I’d have bought more.

No doubt infusing Americana with European concepts throughout much of Mercantile’s layout, as well as the bill of fare, breakfast began with still-warm Monkey Bread awash in caramel and butter before moving to a savory riff on the traditional Cinnamon Roll, this one topped bacon shavings atop thick frosting and the tightly curled brioche bun.

No doubt executing the aforementioned well, but even better when turning eyes towards modernized classics from France, both the Pain Au Raisin and Almond Croissant were riddled with nuts and butter amidst arching layers of crisp lamination, the former mellowing yellow raisins with pistachios while the later is not only bigger than most, but also far better with a shell guaranteed to make a mess of any surface while the inside is stuffed with pureed almonds instead of cloying frangipane.

http://mercantiledenver.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Colorado, Croissant, Denver, Dessert, Food, Mercantile Dining & Provisions, Mercantile Dining and Provisions, Pork, Vacation

February 27, 2016
7:35 AM
by: Uhockey

Four Friends Kitchen, Denver CO

Four Friends Kitchen

Classic Beignets – Warm, fresh “FFK” classic donuts, with wild berry preserves and crème anglaise

Four Friends Grits with Buttermilk battered Southern fried chicken, two poached eggs, savory four cheese grits, collard greens and red chili ranchero sauce

Bourbon Praline Buttermilk Pancake

Cornbread / Biscuit

Made curious by the number of local breakfast joints described as “Southern,” wonder aroused as to whether Mile High natives really feel that French Toast, Omelets or even Tom’s Urban, truly represents the culinary traditions south of the Mason-Dixon Line, Saturday breakfast saw me arrive at Four Friends Kitchen just moments after 7:30, the soon-packed house proving what families of the Eastern Suburbs are already well aware of – that Four Friends is serving Southern cooking not only more “authentic,” but also far better than most.

Helmed by Chef Larry Shore, a 6:30am opening perfect for early risers seven-days-a-week, the “FFK” menu presents a mix of classic breakfasts alongside modern interpretations, standbys including heirloom corn grits offered with several delicious mix-ins appropriately amongst Shore’s most well regarded, though much ado has also been made about everything from Barbeque Tofu and Benedicts to Waffles with Fried Chicken and Root Beer basted Brisket.

Spacious despite a commercial complex exterior that at first looks particularly grey and drab, those smart enough to enter Four Friends Kitchen are immediately greeted by bright smiles and cozy decoration, late arrivers encouraged to pass the time with coffee at the bar while testing their skills with an Etch A Sketch from the wall.

Offering beer, wine and cocktails starting at eight o’clock, the jarring sounds of impatient children above music perhaps not conducive to a long stay lingering over Mimosas, service fulfills expectations of Southern Charm despite the fact that my middle-aged waitress was ironically from Las Vegas, “everything is great” recommendations clarified when asking about favorites and frequent check-ins pleasant yet never disruptive.

Told of beignets that rival the most famous in New Orleans, a bold claim I personally found to be true as compared to Café du Monde with more levity and far less grease, intrigue is upped through the addition of rich Crème Anglaise and housemade fruit puree, even more sweetness offered by a single Buttermilk Pancake that is fluffy when taken on its lonesome, but far better bolstered by the $2 “Bourbon Praline” upgrade.

A bit spendy as relates to breakfast breads, neither the smallish biscuit nor toothsome cornbread near on par to that at The Universal where prices trend cheaper or the same, fans of a classic are instead encouraged to turn their attention to “Overnight” Grits that come across smooth with just the right amount of textural variance, the eponymous iteration taking a next-level step through the addition of four cheeses, tender collards and smoky red sauce beneath lightly breaded Chicken strips and two medium-poached eggs.

http://www.fourfriendskitchen.com/

Posted in Colorado, Cornbread, Denver, FFK, Four Friends Kitchen, Pancakes

February 26, 2016
8:34 PM
by: Uhockey

Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen, Denver CO

Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen

Ground, seasoned and cased in house Sausage Tasting: Beef Short Rib Kielbasa / Mortadella, pistachio, black pepper / Boudin Noir avec curry e aubergine / Vindaloo lamb belly, ginger, turmeric

Risotto Ris de Veau, pumpkin risotto, veal sweetbreads, pear, sunflower seeds

Bruléed Center Cut Beef Marrow Bones, Porter demi, sherry gastrique, toast

Foie Mousse, potato bun, thyme, shallots, jam

Pork Rillette, bretzel chips, pear mostarda

Carbonara, pork skin ‘noodles,’ garlic cream, house cured bacon, English peas, pea shoots, mustard vinagrette, cured egg yolk

Chicken and Waffles, chicken schnitzel, sourdough waffle, pure maple syrup, salty walnuts

Banana Split, funnel-cake fried banana, peanut butter caramel, malt ice cream, hot fudge

Warm Chocolate Chip Blondie, Stout caramel, Bailey’s ice cream, candied walnuts

S’mores Pot de Crème, house made graham crackers and marshmallows

Owned by the team behind Rioja with an expansive two-story space just a short walk away from Coors’ Field, it was on the recommendation of a local friend that dinner after the 2016 Stadium Series Alumni Game was sought at Euclid Hall, a reported 45 minute wait circumvented by upstairs bar seating where service was not unexpectedly fair-to-middling, while the inspired bar food was an across-the-board success.

No doubt a popular space amongst the 20-to-35 crowd, a sizable craft beer list and housemade sausages harkening concepts commonly seen at trendy spots from The Big Apple to LA, Euclid Hall ups the ante on traditional ‘gastropubs’ by additionally offering a wide-ranging menu of inspired European and American classics running the gamut from salads and sandwiches to full-size plates and pastas, each taking a twist on tradition with no lack of innovation in plating or approach.

Opting to place our order in rounds, a wise choice as not to overwhelm the countertop though an issue as relates to expediting with both kitchen and bar running at full-tilt, dinner began with three plates of house-prepared meats, the sausage sampling highlighted by traditional Mortadella as well as smooth Blood Sausage redolent with Curry while the Rillette and Duck Liver were equally well crafted with the former particularly impressive when spread atop crisp pretzels crowned by a dollop of pureed pear and mustard seeds.

Told that transected cow bones are something of a signature, the blowtorch brûlée rendering tops glassy while fat beneath remains spreadable and rich, another great bit of offal is offered in the form of seared Veal Sweetbreads atop tender risotto, the flavors of winter brought to the forefront through the use of pureed pumpkin and pear slices with textural contrast built by toasted sunflower seeds.

Unable to resist the concept of an atypical ‘pasta’ crafted from pigskin ribbons tossed with belly bacon, peas, and an egg to form a makeshift Carbonara that is every bit as decadent as it sounds, our final savory was actually offered on the house as the result of a long delay due to kitchen error, the “Chicken and Waffles” better than most as a thinly pounded breast was served schnitzel-style on either side of puffy sourdough triangles with a sidecar of pure maple syrup.

Unwilling to forego dessert, the options riffing Americana without entering the rare air of refinement seen in Eric Dale’s Rioja plates, those opting for a sweet finish at Euclid Hall are nonetheless presented with tough decisions, the “Funnel Cake-fried” Banana Split unfortunately not quite as interesting as it sounds while a Molten Chocolate Chip Blondie presents like Bread Pudding below melting Bailey’s Ice Cream, the S’mores Pot de Crème eating like the world’s smoothest pudding beneath lightly toasted marshmallows and graham crackers prime for dunking.

http://euclidhall.com/

Posted in Colorado, Denver, Dessert, Euclid Hall, Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, Sweetbreads, Vacation, Waffle

February 26, 2016
4:27 PM
by: Uhockey

Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs, Denver CO

Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs

Alaskan Reindeer Hotdog + Rattlesnake & Pheasant Hotdog + Fried Macaroni and Cheese Bites

Joking with a friend that a hot dog at Coors’ Field would not be a part of my Stadium Series experience, it was instead to Biker Jim’s that a brisk walk from LoDo would detour and although perhaps not as ‘craft’ or creative as Chicago’s dearly departed “Hot Doug’s” there is little doubt that the foremost purveyor of Artisan encased meats in Denver is turning out a top tier product made from some truly unique stuff.

Originally fashioned as a food cart, Jim Pittenger’s former career oddly enough that of a Repo Man, Biker Jim’s now features several locations throughout town and with the Larimer Street brick and mortar location easily the most convenient it was nonetheless that our arrival was met by almost no wait, a total of two dogs and a side selected naked despite several condiments available both for free and for purchase.

Charging a base price of $6.50 per “dog,” perhaps more pricey than a traditional cart but a veritable steal when accounting for the ingredients…let alone the typical cost of a Ballpark Frank…Biker Jim’s interior is spacious and loud with sounds bouncing off high ceilings, yet the moment your number is called to come up and grab your order any distraction becomes secondary to the flavors, each of several options grilled atop a toasty bun with flavors suited to those both daring and meek.

Largely focused on game, meats both domestic and distanced ground to craft each bite, tasting began with the exceedingly lean farm raised Alaskan Reindeer with a clean, grassy flavor stuffed inside a snappy casing while the combination of rattlesnake and pheasant offered far more funk and sapor, the familial fowl predominantly what my tastebuds detected, though I cannot purport any previous experience with snake from which to make a judgement of its contributions.

Opting against dessert as the options were limited in the setting of a day that had already trended quite sweet, it was instead a sizable side of Fried Macaroni and Cheese that was shared by the table, each bite a perfect balance of creamy and crisp without any residual oil, a rare feat making this particular version of the bar food favorite one of the very best around.

Home 2021

Posted in Biker Jim's, Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs, Colorado, Denver, Food, Vacation

February 26, 2016
11:21 AM
by: Uhockey

Root Down, Denver CO

Root Down

Almond Flour-Buttermilk Pancake – Dried Fruit Granola, Pear Butter, Honey Whipped Cream, Maple Agave

Banana Bread French Toast – Chicory Crème Fraiche, Salted Peanuts, Cacao Nibs, Citrus Syrup

Eggnog Bread Pudding – Bourbon Ice Cream, Reishi Caramel, Cocoa Nib Tuille

Banana Crème Brulee Pie – Peanut Butter-Chocolate Crust, Whipped Sour Cream, Beer Nuts

Impressed by a meal at Ophelia’s Electric Soap Box shortly after stepping off the plane from
Las Vegas to Denver it was on the recommendation of the sister restaurant’s GM that brunch at Root Down was selected over a midday meal at Linger, the resultant four plate meal undoubtedly justifying the restaurant’s far reaching acclaim, though perhaps not *quite* as memorable as the one a week prior.

Now offering Friday brunch, a 2016 development prompted by the same sort of customer demand that has seen a second location flourish at Denver International Airport, Root Down is the brainchild of Chef/Owner Justin Cucci and with a focus on small plates composed of wholesome local ingredients the menu is built to cater to almost any dietary discretion, healthy omelets offered alongside French Toast, Dessert and Pancakes with no one item receiving less creativity or higher praise from fans than any other.

No doubt a space built on concepts of nature and sustainability, even the restroom fixtures taking a approach to reuse handwashing water towards the next flush, those entering Root Down are greeted by bright colors as well as smiling faces, the music trending mid-tempo and cheerful which is likely a good thing as those arriving without reservations are all but guaranteed a short wait during all but off hours.

Ideally built for parties prone to sharing, but also conveniently offering demi-portions of several plates for those tackling the menu alone, it was with a few specials declined that a two-course quartet of sweets were selected, the lamb burger as well as the chicken and biscuits unfortunately left for another time even though both they and the Benedicts all looked great.

Waiting perhaps thirty minutes for round one, the patio full by noon with interior soon to follow, half-portions of both the Gluten Free Pancakes as wells as the Fried Banana Bread each proved elegant and well concocted, the former fluffy despite the use of toothsome almond flour while the later was moist and rich without trending too sweet, the flavor of fruit held in check by bittersweet chocolate and chicory amidst tangy crème fraiche and refreshing citrus syrup.

Showing flare for composing plates with one eye towards classical compositions with the other looking towards pairings that at first may not seem to make sense, desserts offered no less intrigue than entrees as Boozy Bread Pudding awash with nutmeg found its foil in caramel infused with earthy aromatics plus a crunchy cocoa tuille, the “Banana Crème Brulee Pie” deserving every bit of its signature status as the lightly burnt custard danced atop a Peanut Butter crust punched up by housemade beer nuts beneath a crown of whipped Sour Cream.

http://www.rootdowndenver.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Colorado, Denver, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, Pancakes, Root Down, Vacation

February 26, 2016
8:38 AM
by: Uhockey

Baur’s Restaurant and Listening Lounge, Denver CO

Baur’s Restaurant and Listening Lounge

Banana Doughnuts – Crème Brulee Custard, Nutella, Strawberries, Hazelnuts

Crème Brulee French Toast – Bananas and Berries, Maple Syrup, Chorizo

Established in 1872, but currently in the process of redefining itself with turnover in the kitchen and Brunch hours expanded to include Friday, downtown Denver’s “Baur’s Restaurant and Listening Lounge” was sort of a mixed-bag experience, the food quite good considering the reasonable prices while the service was inexplicably slow despite the restaurant being completely empty – the waitress either new or completely uninformed as relates to recent changes on the printed menu.

Surprisingly sizable considering the dearth of patrons, dinner and weekends reportedly busier as a result of live music, expanded menus and a chef’s counter for charcuterie as well as daily specials, it was at a large booth parallel to the bar that seating was offered and finding out that the “famous” pastry basket had recently been discontinued a three-part order shrank to a duo of items, 25 minutes preceding the appetizer with entrée arriving hot on its heels.

Taking the opportunity to browse the heavily wooded space as I waited – booths, banquets and tables filling several rooms with a performance stage to the left and wine cellar at the right, Baur’s undoubtedly shows signs of its age in terms of décor and degree of dreariness, the overhead tunes featuring Rock from the last forty years with a menu that thankfully spins more modern including an opening act of Banana Doughnuts undoubtedly worthy of “destination” status with Bruleed Fruit Custard stuffing each cavity as a pile of five is stacked atop Nutella and caramel with a handful of chopped Hazelnuts and fresh berries.

Making sausages and chorizo on-site, the later redolent with spices though not as hot as some, those looking for something meaty to offset sweetness would be well advised to opt for a few extra slices in addition to those served with the Crème Brulee French Toast as each custard soaked slice is grilled to a light crunch beneath Bananas, Berries and Pure Maple Syrup – the end result so sugary that it poses a challenge to even the most pronounced sweet tooth.

www.baursrestaurant.com

Posted in Baur's, Baur's Restaurant, Baur's Restaurant and Listening Lounge, Breakfast, Colorado, Denver, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Pork, Vacation

February 26, 2016
7:55 AM
by: Uhockey

Crema Coffeehouse, Denver CO

Crema Coffeehouse

Intelligentsia Coldbrew

Honey Pistachio Kouign Amann

Chocolate Chip Cookie

Everything Cookie with Oreos, Peanuts, etc

Cherry Almond Muffin

Sweet Potato Waffle with Whipped Cream, Almonds, Maple Syrup

Continuing an aggressive dining agenda on the day of the Colorado vs. Detroit Alumni game that originally lured me into town, it was to local coffee stalwart Crema that I turned for Friday morning breakfast, the service far more friendly than trendy spots in Brooklyn or The
Bay Area with baked goods as well as brews on par with all but the very best.

Located on the border of LoDo and downtown, nearby parking available at a row of shops just off the main drag for no fee, entrance to Crema is likely to be met by a line of variable size and with baristas around a corner local art and an open kitchen provide a warm first impression, several locals working on their computers or engaged in quiet conversation.

Roasting some of their own beans, but also proudly boasting a lineup of the world’s very best purveyors of single origin beans, the daily coldbrew featured Intelligentsia on this particular morning and pairing it with pastries for both now and later an order from the kitchen was assigned a number, first bites of a warm Cherry Almond Muffin proving moist, dense and rich with flavor as the coldbrew was well filtered with great body and almost no residual acidity.

Turning attention next to the buttery Kouign Amann given a Baklava bath via lacquer of honey and tight spirals round about crushed nuts, it was not long before the $7 Waffle arrived tableside, the cost an undoubted steal given the quality of crunch over spongy center as light spice notes flooded the palate bolstered by a light pour of pure maple syrup and house whipped cream.

Not looking to reinvent the wheel with their chocolate chip cookie, but going for broke with an “everything” cookie that came across like Oatmeal Raisin with any number of treasures including Oreo Cookies to be found throughout its chewy base, a few more minutes were spent listening to music amidst the reclaimed wood interior, the range of tunes well suited to the clientele without veering into the typical cliché “hipster” stuff.

http://cremacoffeehouse.net/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Colorado, Crema, Crema Coffeehouse, Denver, Dessert, Food, Intelligentsia, Vacation, Waffle

February 25, 2016
7:18 PM
by: Uhockey

Colt & Gray, Denver CO

Colt & Gray

Chipotle Cracker, Crème Friache, Beet Puree

Housemade Charcuterie – 2-yr Prosciutto Colt & Gray, Coppa, Porchetta Di Testa, Black Pepper Chicken Mousse, Pickles, Crostini, Mustard, Fennel Chutney

Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Housemade Brioche, Luxardo Cherry Pan Sauce, Chocolate Pistachio Tuile

Grapefruit-Lemon Grass Sorbet

Potato Gnocchi – Roasted Winter Squash, Shallots, Brown Butter, Crispy Sage

Squab – Sauteed Breast, Braised Legs, Prunes, Wilted Chard Leaves and Pickled Stems, Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Tomato Braising Jus

Colorado Lamb – Loin, Sausage, Pickled Parsnip, Sauteed Carrots, Wilted Spinach, Green Curry

Espresso, Soda, Angostura Bitters, Orange Peel / Double Espresso on Ice

Banana Financier – Hazelnut Cake, Braised Banana, Hazelnut Praline, Chocolate Ice Cream, Banana Ring

Sticky Toffee Pudding – Bourbon Ice Cream, Toffee Sauce

Orange Cookie, Chocolate Pudding, Caramel

Told by many of a house charcuterie program worth investigating, in addition to a menu not for lack in terms of personal favorite plates, it was through Public Relations that a degustation was arranged at Colt & Gray, the food hitting several high notes throughout the evening with service that is charming, though a bit less ‘formal’ than one might anticipate.

Toqued and owned by Nelson Perkins, a Colorado native who actually came to the kitchen later in life than most, Colt & Gray has been a mainstay of the Denver dining scene since mid-2009 and with a sleek and stylish layout centered around the popular bar plus floor to ceiling glass wine room the informal ‘steakhouse’ feel is avoided through the use of several rustic flourishes, not the least of which include paintings by local artists as well as a fully functional fireplace.

Trained in several highly touted kitchens, the most notable of which include a stint at Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Perkins brings a strong dedication to ingredient quality to a menu that is familiar yet wide-ranging, his focus on domestic butchery noteworthy to those in search of local game, the more esoteric cuts offered alongside a collection of appetizers, salads, sides and steaks.

Served by a young woman most recently a nearby barista, her smiling conversation welcomed as the meal unfolded somewhat slowly, dinner began with a smoky little canapé before launching into a plate of housemade cured meats, the two-year old Prosciutto and pan-seared “Porchetta Di Testa” both reference standard bites while creamy chicken liver and coppa were also well crafted, the complimentary pickles and aromatic chutney perfect for cleansing the palate, even for somewhat who generally prefers something sweet.

Partially self selecting the courses, a fixed $100 cost presenting a modest deal even though I’d have generally preferred smaller portions and more plates, Chef Perkins’ Foie Gras was one case where I was happy to eat a full helping, the exterior caramelized to a light crunch while the center was as soft as pudding, the rich sapor finding its foil in Luxardo Cherry Pan Sauce and an elegant Cocoa tuile.

Opting against wine and therefore happy to see sorbet wash the palate before tasting tender potato dumplings that shined amidst winter squash, brown butter and sage, the meals most memorable course soon arrived in the form of a whole Squab in two preparations, the breast lightly sauteed just past rare with the legs braised and crispy, the combination of juicy prunes, pickled chard, and mushrooms all working in harmony with braising Jus to create a flavor far greater than the sum of its parts.

Not foolish enough to pass up locally raised Lamb from a kitchen with such a passion for its proteins, both the loin and housemade sausage were richly flavored atop a medley of local produce tinged in curry, Colt & Gray’s signature Sticky Toffee Pudding every bit as good as the rumors while the Banana Financier was also quite delicious, though visually compromised by an oblong ring and melting ice cream due to a lengthy delay in its delivery and the nearby fireplace’s heat.

www.coltandgray.com

Posted in Coffee, Colorado, Colt & Gray, Colt and Gray, Denver, Dessert, Foie, Foie Gras, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Pork, Tasting Menu, Vacation

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