Vila Algarve, Las Vegas NV

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Vila Algarve

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Milk Bread

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Half Chorizo – Pork Sausage with Red Wine, Flame Grilled and finished tableside

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Trinchado Chicken – Red Wine, Creamy Sauce, Olives, Toasted Bread

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Halloumi Cheese – Goat Cheese, Sweet and Sour

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Snails – Chardonnay White Wine Garlic Sauce, Mixed Cheese

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Calamari Curry – Creamy Coconut Curry Sauce, Rice, Chutney

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Bacalao “A Brass” – Salt Cod, Shredded and Cooked with Onions, Garlic, Potatoes, Eggs, Extra Virgin Olive Oil

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Tiramisu

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Located in a sprawling space at the corner of Tropicana and Jones where proprietor Lubka (Luby) greeted us with a smile at the door as her husband, Ross, tended to the kitchen it would be difficult to imagine a more charming first impression of a new restaurant than the one with which I walked away from Vila Algarve on Saturday afternoon. Empty save for one other table at our 2pm arrival and featuring a diverse menu anchored in rich Portuguese traditions with all stocks, sauces, and spice blends made in house it was with a small amount of experience in the region’s cuisine that our quartet perused the options but with staff more than willing to engage, discuss, and suggest despite significant language barriers the seven items selected all proved not only well prepared and presented, but also highly educational and thoroughly enjoyable. Skipping over seemingly out-of-place pizzas and pastas, though we were assured that these too are common to the cuisine, and focusing instead on the items favored by Luby as well as personal tastes it was with dense, warm milk bread that we began and with plates coursed out one-by-one appetizers commenced with lightly spiced Portuguese chorizo, ablaze on presentation and smoky with a snappy kielbasa-esque flavor, followed by squeaky griddled Halloumi with house-made sweet and sour serving to balance the brine. Moving next to tender snails in thick garlic cream it was fourth that the primary reason for my visit arrived and living up to high hopes the milk-soaked and shredded preserved cod was perfect as two large cylinders arrived featuring ample salinity balanced by smashed potatoes, eggs, and subdued aromatics to form something rich, rustic, and satisfying…something I routinely seek out elsewhere now done well in my own back yard. Rounding out the savories with two more richly sauced proteins including snappy squid in bright curry and tender chicken with notes of cumin, paprika, and something citrus perfuming the palate it was with full stomachs that Luby compelled us to order dessert, the tiramisu made by herself that morning, and whether ‘traditional’ or not I’m uncertain but either way the scoop of light mascarpone and bold coffee was much like the rest of the afternoon – delicious, comfortable, and served with gracious smiles and requests to come back soon, something I’ve no doubt the bacalao will compel.

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No Website

6120 W Tropicana Ave.

Las Vegas, NV 89103

(702) 666-3877

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Tiramisu, Vila Algarve

Rambo’s Kitchen, Las Vegas NV

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Rambo’s Kitchen

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Six Cinnamon Sugar Donuts

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Monte Cristo – Raspberry White Chocolate Brioche, Battered and Fried, Ham, Turkey, Swiss

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Biscuit with Honey

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Brownie

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Billed as a “1960’s Diner” but far kitschier than that simple designation in both concept and execution, Rambo’s Kitchen is a place I’d been meaning to visit for a while but given its location one that required an added impetus, something found in a Saturday errand after a much earlier meal on the strip with friends. Open at 8am and myself the first to arrive just as the doors were unlocked it was to a bright room of psychedelic colors and paraphernalia that I was welcomed by a young woman named Misty and invited to sit anywhere I opted for a two-top with mismatched chairs at the room’s center – the open kitchen to my left, a window to my right, Jimi Hendrix IN the table plus a deck of ‘Go-Fish’ and an enormous menu on it – the latter quickly navigated to the tune of an appetizer and a main plus a side with each scratch-made item prepped to order as I sat listening to The Beatles. Monkeys, and Dylan. Beginning first with a half-dozen hot donuts dredged in cinnamon sugar for a mere two dollars as I watched the staff of one seat and serve four more tables (whilst also brewing two pots of coffee) it was after perhaps twenty-five minutes that the object prompting my visit arrived and as if to say “good things come to those who wait” the golden crisp Monte Cristo was a beauty; light cocoa tones and house-made strawberry preserves taking thinly sliced ham, turkey, and particularly sharp Swiss to a whole new level with each crunchy/creamy bite. Setting aside a thin and boring biscuit improved somewhat by honey, my request with the sandwich in place of four styles of potatoes, and moving right on to dessert it was admittedly a great showing of restraint that prevented me from ordering the “PB+B for two” but with lemon cake and “awesome” brownies as the alternatives my choice became simple – the nearly 1/3 pound chocolate-on-chocolate wedge so moist it seemed only semi-solid and so rich that even half the $3 serving would suffice many brownie lovers…so long as the other half is enjoyed with an iced double espresso a few hours later.

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http://www.ramboskitchen.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Rambo's, Rambo's Kitchen

Carnegie Delicatessen, Las Vegas NV

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Carnegie Deli

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Carrot Cake

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French Toast

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Cheese Blintzes with Big Apple Sauce

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Coffee

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Located inside The Mirage, 24-hour New York staple Carnegie Deli had long been one of those restaurants I figured I would ‘eventually’ patronize – the menu featuring a few items of interest but the Las Vegas Boulevard upcharge seemingly unjustified by ‘deli food,’ no matter how good – an early morning breakfast finally sparked by a group of friends staying at the hotel and the result a good time with surprisingly good food despite prices I’d still label exorbitant. Bringing the signature 7th street delicatessen to a surprisingly small space just off the gaming floor where a few trios and quartets sat basking in the glow of the prior night’s escapades behind enormous sandwiches and cauldrons of matzo ball soup it was to friendly service and overhead Sinatra that we arrived and seated immediately orders followed in an equally expedited manner, a total of perhaps nine items ordered but my focus on three plus a half-dozen refills to my cup of coffee. Speaking first to my favorite ‘appetizer,’ the $8.50 slice of carrot cake proved competent and not overly sweet, but perhaps as a result of our early morning visit and a cake from last night the crumb delivered slightly dry and under-spiced – the impressive cream cheese icing thankfully buoying the dish, though none of it nearly as impressive as the $13.95 fried cheese blintzes whose light eggy tones and balanced parts savory meets sweet proved excellent on their own, yet far better with house-made applesauce taken bite-for-bite. Eschewing meats or omelets, though all looked good, it was in a Jewish deli’s Challah that I placed my trust for a ‘main course’ and with three thick slices soaked in batter, fried golden in butter, and drowned in maple syrup I really could not have asked for more, the stack a veritable bargain at $10.95.

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http://mirage.com/restaurants/carnegie-delicatessen.aspx

Posted in Breakfast, Carnegie Delicatessen, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Las Vegas, Nevada

Rolling in Dough Bakery and Leopold’s Cakery, Las Vegas NV

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Rolling in Dough Bakery and Leopold’s Cakery

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Red Velvet Cupcake

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“Breakfast” Cupcake

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Strawberry Macaron

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Apple Cinnamon Macaron

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Mini Éclair

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Mini Lemon Meringue Pie

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Mini Apple Cranberry Tart

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Mini Creampuff

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Funfetti Cake

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Located steps from my front door and having recently undergone rebranding from old-timey “Leopold’s Bakery” to “Rolling in Dough Bakery [substantially subtitled] & Leopold’s Cakery” I finally decided to pay the small shop a visit this Saturday; friendly service but high prices and underwhelming products perhaps my punishment for not stopping by sooner. Featuring all the ‘standards’ of a modern American bakery with options ranging from simple cupcakes and cookies to more fanciful macarons and choux-based options plus croissants and cinnamon rolls that did not even *appear* appetizing it was a wide swath of the menu that I was able to sample given a collection of petit fores, but almost across the board every single item was simply ‘sweet’ with indistinct flavors and off-textures – soggy choux, dry cake, and cloying cooked frostings the biggest offenders. Focusing on the few items that at least worked in parts, the red velvet far outdid the funfetti and ‘breakfast’ options by presenting moist cake and tangy cream cheese frosting while both tarts, though far too sweet to let natural fruits shine, presented a respectable buttery crust that in more restrained hands could produce a great seasonal pie. Speaking last to macarons, the general quality of most I’ve tasted in Las Vegas lacking, I would strongly recommend those preferring jam based centers take a look here as both cookies featured good crackle giving way to a quickly dissipating crumb over intense filling, the apple again a bit saccharine but the strawberry like an early bite of summer…two great bites amidst a $25 tab quoted off the top of the clerk’s head without any listed prices or detailed receipt, none of it a reason to return even given the proximity as I’ve produced better versions of all but the macarons in my own kitchen.

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http://www.leopoldsbakery.com/

Posted in cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Leopold’s Cakery, Macaroon, Nevada, Rolling in Dough Bakery, Rolling in Dough Bakery and Leopold’s Cakery

Desnudo Tacos, Las Vegas NV

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Desnudo Tacos

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Guacamole – Avocado, Tomato, Lime, Serrano, Onion, Cilantro, Thick Crispy Tortilla

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Ceviche – Mango-Lime Scallops, Salsa, Onion, Cilantro, Pineapple

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Chivo – Slow Braised Goat, Guajillo Chile, Avocado Leaf, Banana Leaf, Onion, Cilantro, Radish

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Carnita – Pork Shoulder Braised in Lime Juice, Avocado, Lime Queso Fresco (With Beans and Rice)

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Tinga Poblana – Pork Shoulder, Chorizo, Chipotle, Tomato, Tomatillo, Roasted Garlic, Avocado, Crema  /  Hongos – Sauteed Mushrooms, Baby Spinach, Ancho Chile, Roasted Garlic Crema, Lime Queso Fresco

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Garnering ample praise since opening its doors, Chris Palmeri and Christian Dolias’ “Desnudo Tacos” had been on my ‘to do’ list for weeks and although my first experience was under the less-than-ideal circumstances of already being quite full from prior dining I can say without a doubt that not only are the commendations well deserved, but that tis visit will certainly not be my last. Small in size and well-culled in offerings as nearly every topping, accoutrement, and protein is made in house it was with two friends that I sat down at a long bench amidst the Día de los Muertos décor and ordering lightly with an eye to sharing the meal began simply enough with creamy citrus-meets-spice guacamole and tender, bright ceviche before moving on to a quartet of tacos, the three which I tasted all a study of what high quality ingredients and innovative pairings can do to elevate ‘simple’ street food to new heights. Beginning first with the Tinga Poblana, a 1-2 punch of braised pork and spicy chorizo finding balance in light crema plus ample garlic and progressing onward to unctuous mushrooms whose woodsy umami-funk was lent levity by light spice and citrus it would be difficult to decide which was more impressive and yet having experienced goat in a number of forms including upscale Greek at Johnny Monis’ Komi and traditional Mexican stew from Chicago’s celebrated “Birria Zaragoza” I can say without second thought that the Chivo here is exemplary, the meat easily shredded by fork with a light gaminess on first bite giving way to soft grassy tones quick to meld with acid, sweetness, and just enough onion and cilantro to make flavors pop; more than enough incentive to return for a second look at it and the rest of the menu…plus perhaps some Naked City next door.

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http://www.desnudotacos.com/

Posted in Desnudo Tacos, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork

Streetcar Po-Boys, Las Vegas NV

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Streetcar Po-Boys

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The Streetcar – Shrimp, Oysters, Catfish

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Bourbon Street – Roast Beef and Gravy

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Crescent City – Muffuletta

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Marie Laveau – Boudin

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Pirogue – Crawfish Boudin

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Fried Okra and Fried Pickles

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Hush Puppies, Corn Fritters, Fried Mac & Cheese

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Praline Style King Cake

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Beignets

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Bread Pudding

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Cream Cheese King Cake

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Whether a result of my Midwestern upbringing or my career choice I’ve always been a bit of a perfectionist and someone who craves authenticity, thus when I heard about a new New Orleans themed Po-Boy shop so dedicated to their craft that breads and proteins were being imported from NOLA I could not wait to go…all I needed was a group, something thankfully facilitated by a cronut-tasting with several like-minded diners earlier that day. A surprisingly expansive space with festive décor replete with shiny red vinyl booths and a truly splendid paisley carpet it was just prior to 11:30am that our large group arrived but having contacted the restaurant in advance the small team couldn’t have been more accommodating, tables rearranged and service perfect throughout our 90 minute stay. Focused on diversity with an eye towards capacity and thus ordering in groups it was a total of five sandwiches, seven sides, and four desserts that I personally experienced and although I cannot pretend to be a Po-boy ‘expert’ every single item I tasted was a delight. Beginning first with all thing fried it was snappy pickles, creamy macaroni, sweet corn, okra, and softly spiced hushpuppies that first landed on our table and with low prices and big flavors there was more than enough to share…or even to make a meal in itself alongside the ample portions of slaw and house-made chips accompanying the sandwiches. Moving next to the Po-boys, it was with the eponymous “Streetcar” that we started and with surprisingly plump shrimp and oysters full of brine the trend of superlative ingredients spanned right through two soft, spicy takes on boudin plus excellent ‘debris-style’ roast beef all served “dressed without mayo” on crunchy, lightly yeasted French bread on par or better than any I’ve found in Las Vegas to date. Equally impressed by a thickly stacked muffaletta served on its traditional roll with house-made olive spread a bit less briny than I recall down south it was here that we moved from savory to desserts and with many already feeling plenty sweet from the pre-meal cronuts it can only be said that a surprise praline-style King Cake in addition to the fresh made cream cheese standard that we ordered in advance was a gluttonous gift, both cakes every bit as good as I recall from Haydel’s and the freshness paying dividends as bright yeasty notes tempered the slowly melting glaze. Never one to skimp on experience, especially as the owner stopped by to talk shop and express her thanks for our visit, it was with beignets and bread pudding that the afternoon concluded and with the former far less dense and oily than those at Café de Monde, though not quite as rich in flavor, the latter simply stole the show as rich, eggy bread melded with boozy caramel and raisins in a simple coffee cup served still-bubbling hot…homey, authentic, and in my opinion “perfect.”

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streetcarpoboysonline.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, Streetcar, Streetcar Po-Boys

Pink Box / Press / America / Coco, Las Vegas NV

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Croissant/Donut Showdown

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America

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Coco

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Pink Box

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Press

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Having tasted croissant/doughnut hybrids from coast to coast, including Ansel’s original and the majority in Las Vegas and Los Angeles, I visited the 2nd Vegas “Donut Crawl” mostly for the people, a great group of folks ranging a wide range of ages, ethnicities, and eating experiences…but while I was there chatting with faces both new and old I couldn’t help but sample some Cronuts side-by-side; the results confirming exactly what previous visits to Press, Pink Box, Coco, and ‘America’ had led me to believe. Sampling each location’s simplest option – unfilled cinnamon or sugar glazed – as a sliced quarter, first glance tells much of the story regarding Pink Box – a limp, oily, flaccid mess with poor lamination left to rely only on sweetness and warmth/freshness, the later apparently only accomplished after a service snafu and two visits that morning. Moving next to bigger and better, Coco presents a bit of a conundrum as it is nothing like the original, yet with dramatic separation of layers and a great crunch plus light sweetness it is more akin to a really good glazed croissant – the strawberry and coconut versions no less excellent and surprisingly natural in flavor. Next up, from Press at the Four Seasons, was the closest to Ansel’s version that I’ve experienced to date – a veritable 50/50 cro/nut with nice lamination, ample butter, and good crunch – at $5 the most pricey of the quartet, but the chocolate version particularly impressive with dense semi-sweet ganache of expected Four Seasons quality. Last and (aside from the questionably-canned apple compote) in my opinion best, America Donut from America Restaurant at NY-NY offered up their “New York Style Donut” complete with yawning caverns of lamination, rich buttery tones, and nearly zero grease beneath a lightly citrus glaze – the amalgam leaning closer to croissant than donut, but entirely delicious and my favorite fried-laminated-donut/doughnut-croissant-thing in Sin City. Another great event with great people, and one that only improved with Streetcar Po-Boys immediately after.

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Clockwise from 12′ – Pink Box, America, Coco, Press

Posted in America, America Restaurant, Breakfast, Coco Donuts, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pink Box Doughnuts, Press, Press at the Four Seasons

Hash House a Go Go at the Rio, Las Vegas NV

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Hash House a Go Go at the Rio

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Mardi Gras Pancakes – Buttermilk Confetti Cake with mini-M&Ms, white chocolate chips, and dark chocolate chips

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Crispy hand hammered pork tenderloin benedict with yellow tomato, spinach, bar b’ que cream, 2 basted eggs, griddled mashed potatoes, and buttermilk biscuit

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Lavazza Coffee

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With my breakfast predilections ever skewed sweet over savory it came as a bit of a surprise that ‘National Pancake Week’ had gone unnoticed until I caught a news brief discussing the opening of the newest location of San Diego’s Hash House a Go-Go at The Rio; a special offering ‘Mardi Gras’ pancake catching my eye and early opening hours plus a promise of televisions showing the USA vs. Russia game cementing my plans to visit after a long morning run. Well designed and immense in size with clever interior flourishes complimenting the concept of “Twisted Farm Food” it was mere moments after the puck dropped on the third period that I arrived to the hostess stand and after a brief greeting I was handed off to a lovely lady named Peggy who would keep watchful eye over me throughout the overtime-extended visit – the nearly eighty minute stay ample time to enjoy approximately a whole pot of hot coffee and all that arrived on Hash House’s enormous signature plates. Deciding to go one sweet and one savory with a request to deliver the former followed by the latter it was with the special pancake that I arrived and truly the size of the hubcap it was exactly what I expected, fluffy and laced with buttermilk but exceedingly sweet; the equivalent of eating birthday cake for breakfast and exactly the sort of thing I’m willing to go out early for, though probably a dish best shared…particularly given what followed in a Benedict balancing a surfboard of crisp, lean pork with top quality vegetables and creamy mashed potatoes beneath lightly sweetened and tangy barbeque cream. Perhaps not ‘refined’ and undoubtedly ‘over the top,’ yet a place with something for everyone given their dedication to ethical farming and product sourcing Hash House a Go-Go remains one of the rare mini-chains I’m happy to support and with newer locations even offering ‘lite’ options of simple eggs, toast, proteins, and salads its only a matter of time before I visit the downtown and Sahara locations…the best biscuits in the city just one more highlight on an already long list.

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http://www.riolasvegas.com/restaurants/hash-house-a-go-go.html#.UwLQYumPKAg

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Hash House A Go Go, Hash House A Go Go at the Rio, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

Luv-It Frozen Custard, Las Vegas NV

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Luv-It Frozen Custard

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Butter Crunch – butterscotch, crunch over Vanilla

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Twice thwarted in my prior attempts to experience Luv It, once as a result of arriving two-hours prior to the 1pm opening hour and once due to staff vacation, the third time would finally prove a charm in visiting what a friend and former pastry chef deems “the best frozen custard in the country” – a sentiment ironically echoed by former and current mayors, Oscar and Carolyn Goodman, who arrived moments after me and spoke fondly of myriad visits to Greg Tiedemann’s stand over the years as we waited in line. Generally underwhelmed by custards as compared to artisan ice creams or gelatos in the past I’d hardly realized that the small window had such an extensive menu of flavors until I approached, but with standards of chocolate and vanilla plus seasonal cheesecake, cherry pie, blue moon, and countless toppings, sauces, and mix-ins I was glad to have some time to think – eventually settling on a $4.25 cash-only “Butter Crunch” over vanilla custard plus a large spooned sample of cherry pie. Traditional in texture, full bodied with flavor, unmistakably custard given a light egginess to the vanilla, and with substantially more heft than the versions popularized at iconic Ted Drewes’ or franchised Rita’s it took a few rich spoonfuls to truly appreciate the velvety texture of the custard itself as I worked through toppings acting more as a distraction than a compliment but once down to creamy base it can only be said that this is indeed some excellent custard and for fans of the style it is a ‘must visit,’ though for my dining dollars the presence of Art of Flavors only a few blocks away will make a return unlikely anytime soon as even the “best” custard can’t hold a candle to truly superlative gelato.

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http://www.luvitfrozencustard.com

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Luv It, Luv-It Frozen Custard, Nevada

The Goodwich, Las Vegas NV

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The Goodwich

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Fluff & Nutt – Nutella, Toasted Marshmallow, Crunch (Monte Cristo Style)

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Ham & – Thick Cut Ham and Daily Inspiration of Arugula, Aged Cheddar, Mostarda (Monte Cristo Style)

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Foie & – Foie Gras Mousse, Crispy Chicken Skin, Caramelized Cabbage, Almond

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Located in front of self-pronounced dive-bar, Dino’s Lounge, and still a work in progress as described by co-owner Jake Leslie who was present and ever informative, smiling, and gracious throughout my visit for a trio of sandwiches it can only be said that if restaurants only get better with time then “The Goodwich” is poised to be nothing short of a destination. Featuring an eclectic menu ranging from $3-$9 with a dozen unique base-sandwiches and options for breads, add-ons, and “Monte Cristo” treatment providing ample room for customization it was after perhaps ten minutes of chatting with Jake about the metal-kiosk’s surprising sourcing program (think foie from Artisanal Foods made into terrine by Goodwich staff, or house-made mostarda and spreads) that I placed my order and subsequently taking a seat in raucous Dino’s where TV On The Radio and The NHL Network kept me entertained it would be just over 10 minutes before my food arrived, each option truly stunning despite a sub-$20 tab. Opting for all sandwiches on White (Pain de Mie, actually, harkening Jake and co-owner Josh Clark’s fine dining rearing) with two fried-golden the degustation began with the “Foie &” as a thick lacquer of unctuous terrine found balance of both taste and texture in crunchy, salted chicken skin plus slightly sweet stewed cabbage and moving next to “Ham &” a similar concept was presented, but entirely different with tender pork providing the brine as snappy arugula blended with fruity mostarda and aged cheese for big flavor, but a sense of refinement akin to something served on the strip at 4x the $5 price. Clearly unable to resist dessert in such a setting, particularly when featuring golden bread and Nutella for $3.50 (the 50 cent upcharge for a visit to the fryer), it was with the sweet but subtle “Fluff & Nutt” that my meal concluded and as the soundtrack overhead shifted to Janis Joplin’s ‘Mercedes Benz,’ subsequently joined by nearly every voice in the house, I couldn’t help but smile and think about the early days of Cleveland’s now-legendary Melt, a business and sourcing model not dissimilar to what The Goodwich is targeting, and one that has now spawned three additional locations. Defying any thoughts of the ‘simple sandwich’ I wish the folks all the luck in the world and will undoubtedly be back; a $9 foie gras fix is something not even “Major Cities” have to offer…not to mention anything for $3 using ingredients this good.

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https://twitter.com/thegoodwich

Posted in Dessert, Foie, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pork, The Goodwich

Corner Cakes, Las Vegas NV

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Corner Cakes

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Sprinkled Cronut $5

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Red Velvet Cupcake $4.50

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Almond Croissant $5

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Carrot Cake $6.75

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Located in the MGM near the main elevators off the lobby and receiving mixed reviews from persons I trust I decided to take it upon myself to decide whether Corner Cakes was simply another overpriced casino money grab or, perhaps, a hidden gem like the Donut Counter at America Restaurant in NY-NY…the results leaning so far to the former that I literally left $12+ of baked ‘goods’ in a trashcan not-far from the small, smoky lounge where I sat to indulge. Noting first that each of the pastries are indeed attractively presented while the staff is smiley, pleasant, and efficient even given the area’s immense foot traffic it is here that the positives of Corner Cakes end – the old adage about putting ‘lipstick on a pig’ rarely as true as a $5 dense, cakey, and flaccid almond croissant to start the tasting off poorly and things only to get worse as I progressed to a ‘cronut’ so oily that it literally could have been wrung out with the excess oil used to fry up another, better version anywhere else in town. Assuming that perhaps laminated and/or French pastry simply isn’t where Corner Cakes shines it was next with half-hearted enthusiasm that I proceeded onward to a duo of actual ‘cakes’ and while the individual carrot cake was actually quite decent, a dense crumb with plenty of spice to balance sweet buttercream, the red velvet cupcake managed the seemingly impossible feat of being nearly inedible, the cake itself tasteless around a nearly solid chocolate core while the chalky, chilly frosting seemed to be channeling sour cream moreso than cream cheese – the questionable freshness and half-frozen presentation making me wonder whether the cupcake was even baked on premises…and if so, when?

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https://www.mgmgrand.com/restaurants/corner-cakes.aspx

Posted in Corner Cakes, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

Pin-Up Pizza, Las Vegas NV

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Pin Up Pizza

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Margherita Slice

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Garlic Knot

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…with my opinions on traditional New York “slice shops” varying from terrible to merely decent but having found some improvement in the style since relocating to Las Vegas, largely as a result of superior ingredient quality at both “Secret Pizza” and Pop-Up, it was with cautious optimism that I approached the newly minted Strip-side Pin Up Pizza at pH’s Miracle Mile Shops for a late afternoon bite. Truly a “slice shop” featuring a small counter with standing room only dining both inside and out plus a half-dozen pies served by a staff of four including two servers, a cashier, and a pizzaiolo hand-tossing gargantuan crusts it was to warm smiles and pleasantries that I was greeted and taking my time to peruse the options and inquire what was most fresh an order was placed – a seemingly steep $6.76 after tax, but on closer inspection a price well justified by a baseball sized garlic knot and locally sourced heirloom tomatoes on what I’d argue to be the city’s best electric (or gas for that matter) crust, though purists may beg to differ given a lack of “foldability”…or perhaps “fold-necessity” as relates to greasy, flavorless ‘tradition.’ Subtle with semolina but largely a lightly yeasted flour base with just enough spring and char to support the ingredient weight from rim to a center approximately one foot away suffice it to say that single slices at Pin Up will eat like a meal to some, but with dollops of fresh mozzarella playing against fresh sliced tomatoes and a drizzle of olive oil on such an impressive backbone with only pre-filled $3 cannolis for dessert I’d say that’s just fine…besides, knowing what I know now I rather wish I’d have stuck around to try a slice of the housemade pepperoni with shredded fresh mozzarella and hand crushed tomato sauce instead of schlepping to MGM for dessert anyhow.

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http://www.planethollywoodresort.com/restaurants/pin-up-pizza.html#.UvrvtOmPKAg

Posted in Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pin-Up Pizza, Pizza

Wing Lei, Las Vegas NV

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Wing Lei

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Dim Sum: Shark Fin Dumpling, Pork Dumpling, Lobster Dumpling, Steamed Pork Bun, Scallop Custard, Har Gow, XLB, Tea Smoked Duck, Soy Chicken, Baked Pork Bun, Shrimp Balls, Egg Custard, Azuki Bean Sesame Balls, Sweet Sticky Rice, Fried Taro Buns, Sticky Rice, Mussel and Arame Dumpling

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Cold Table: Maine Lobster, King Crab, Tamago, Snapper, Tako, Vegetable Bean Curd Roll, Duck Prosciutto and Pear, Grilled Scallops with Tomatoes and Artichokes, Lobster Salad with Yuzu Ponzu, Crab Cake and Sweet Peppers

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Hot Table: Salted Chicken Congee, Lobster Bisque, Tomahawk Chop, Steamed Sea Bass with Pork and Mushroom Confit, Yee Fu Noodles

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Desserts: Pina Colada, Mango Tapioca, Choco-Mousse, Caramel Coffee Crunch, Coconut Lychee Financier, Green Tea and Raspberry Opera, Fruit Tart, Pineapple Beignet, Crispy Praline Nutella, Coffee Truffle, Yuzu Cheesecake, Five Spice Chocolate Cheesecake, Caramels (Yuzu, Salted, Walnut, Rum)

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Officially the first Chinese restaurant in the United States to ever garner a Michelin Star, Wing Lei had literally been on my bucket list for 5 years when a friend informed me of their twice-yearly dim-sum brunch, the $68.88 feast featuring both hot carts and a full buffet of items both traditional Chinese and Americanized fare in the gorgeous, gilded, and newly renovated room at Wynn. Generally not particularly interested in buffets given the lackluster quality of ingredients plus intrinsic flaws related to large-scale production and hot plates it was with good faith that I presumed a team the likes of that at Wing Lei would do a stellar job with sourcing as well as preparation and true to form from the moment our party of three arrived it would be hard to find fault in any aspect of the afternoon as the setting, food, and service shined. A no reservations affair playing host to a mixture of young and old, Asian and Caucasian, it was with dim sum that the majority of tables began and with carts circulating at intervals of no more than ten minutes each and every item arrived hot and fresh, the offerings shining with delicate shark’s fin, snappy lobster, and textbook har gow amongst the most impressive steamed items while fried taro root dumplings, juicy XLB, and crispy duck plus pork belly with a crackling crème brulee skin also wowed. Moving next to the vast expanse of items both hot and cold, it was in the soup station that I found two of my favorites – the congee as rich and textural as the bisque proved buttery and sweet (if not particularly Chinese at all) – while split 1.5lb lobsters, King Crab Claws, and prepared to order sushi was all immaculate, an easy place for those so inclined to more than make up for the cost of entry. Focusing less on steam-tray hot items but very impressed by cured duck balanced by sliced pears, fatty yet supple Tomahawk chop, and tender grilled scallops, meaty sea bass, plus lobster salad in delicate ponzu it was at last to desserts that I moved and sampling each one of the sweets it would be difficult to say which I enjoyed the most as the dense caramel coffee crunch and coconut lychee financier were as good as any similar dessert served on the strip, yet given the choice to revisit just one item it was to the Yuzu Cheesecake dipped in White Chocolate that I returned – the creamy center with light citrus and a smooth chocolate shell redefining a dessert I rarely, if ever, order on a restaurant menu. Undoubtedly a decadent brunch but also a case where I feel I got exactly what I paid for suffice it to say I can’t wait for the Year of the Sheep…and more exploration of Vegas’ wide selection of Asian cuisines, both casual and upscale, in the interim.

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http://www.wynnlasvegas.com/Restaurants/FineDining/WingLei

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Food, Lobster, Octopus, Pork, Sushi, Tasting Menu, Wing Lei, Wing Lei Dim Sum Brunch

Jamms Restaurant, Las Vegas NV

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Jamms Restaurant

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Coffee

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Nutella Almond Pot of Bread

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Red Velvet Pancake

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S’mores Pancake

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McBeth – French Toast, Ham, Turkey, Swiss

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Grits

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Another long-term fixture of the local food scene, and one I’d unknowingly been driving by twice daily every Thursday and Friday since relocating to Las Vegas, Jamms Restaurant quickly earned a spot on the ‘to-visit’ list when my server at Mary’s Hash House mentioned the quaint local eatery as another “great place” serving up home-style breakfasts at a fair price – a 7am opening perfect for another Saturday of dining. Nondescript from the exterior but cozy and kitsch inside as a friendly staff bounced between tables with endless refills of coffee from Illy at a mere $2.75 it was to a diverse menu and a hot, yeasty ‘pot of bread’ slathered with Nutella and toasted almonds that I arrived and after perusing the menu at length an order was placed, a server named Shirley warning me that it would be “a lot of food,” but failing to inform me of noted upcharges of $2 for a single Red Velvet Pancake and $1.25 for grits in place of potatoes. Jovial in spirit with tunes ranging from Sinatra to Madonna playing overhead it was perhaps a ten minute wait after the bread that the rest of my meal arrived and with each item larger than expected in size it was indeed a substantial breakfast with only the cocoa-less Red Velvet failing to impress…the flavor merely that of a decent buttermilk pancake gussied up with $2 in dye. Speaking to the rest, suffice it to say that it would be hard to mess up something as decadent as the signature “S’Mores” with ample chocolate chips and chocolate syrup finding balance in bold buttermilk, marshmallows, plus a dollop of whipped cream and yet as good as the pancake was, the un-fried riff on the Monte Cristo easily stole the show as golden Texas Toast dipped in custard housed Ham, Turkey, and Swiss of good quality and quantity, all just waiting for a sweet gilding of maple syrup to make flavors pop. Never one to quibble prices but a firm believer that upcharges should always be disclosed Jamms strikes me as a good-enough place in a city with plenty of similar options; a bit better than some and a bit worse than others…the sort of place I’m sure to revisit at some point for the Waffle Sundae or the Stuffed French Toast, but not before investigating other family owned spots or before second visits to Blueberry Hill, Hash House, Egg & I, or Baby Stacks.

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http://www.jammsrestaurant.com

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Food, French Toast, Jamms, Jamms Restaurant, Las Vegas, Nevada, Pancakes, Pork

Retro Bakery, Las Vegas NV

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Retro Bakery

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Hop Scotch – Vanilla cake topped with vanilla buttercream dipped in butterscotch ganache

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Red Carpet – Red cake topped with almond buttercream and red glitter sugar

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Apple Cider – Cinnamon swirl cake topped with apple cider buttercream dusted with cinnamon and sugar

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Glazed Donut – Vanilla cake drenched in donut glaze

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Coffee and Donuts – Vanilla cake covered in donut glaze and topped with a dollop of coffee buttercream

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Brownie Sundae – Chocolate chip brownie topped with vanilla buttercream and chocolate fudge

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When a co-worker suggested she was looking for ‘fancy’ cupcakes for her daughter’s birthday that evening and a large gap opened in my midday schedule a plan was hatched to finally visit Centennial staple “Retro Bakery” – a dozen cupcakes for the party that evening and six to be saved for my Saturday dining, each of the $2.65 selections proving unique and impressive…and all at a price nearly half that of other local and national cupcakeries. Locally owned & operated by Kari and Brian Haskell for the past six years and turning out no less than a dozen varieties of cupcakes daily with fresh-bakes ongoing as dictated by need it was to smiling service and a mostly full selection that we arrived and choosing a wide variety each frosted gem was carefully packed into individually slotted boxes; the total tab under $50 even after putting a few bucks in the tip jar. Having heard that the birthday cakes were a resounding success and ensuring freshness by securing my picks airtight in the refrigerator overnight it was with half-cakes after a long morning run that my Saturday began and working from lightest to most dense each option shined, both donut varieties harkening the flavor of a good cake-style ring with light glaze while the signature Hop Scotch presented the same supple vanilla base beneath rich butterscotch brimming with caramelized notes of brown sugar. Moving next to bases with more heft, the Apple Cider was selected largely because the young lady at the counter described it as a “sort of coffee cake” and true to form, the dense crumb was rich with apples and cinnamon akin to the flavor of an apple fritter and duly appointed with sharply spiced butter cream, a truly unique option that would have been my favorite of the six had the last two not been equally excellent – a rich take on the red velvet replacing traditional cream cheese frosting with rich frangipane tinged buttercream and the “Friday Only” Brownie Sundae, more cupcake than brownie and rousing fond memories of my childhood when a warm pan of brownies frequently served as a indispensable wintertime dessert.

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http://www.retrobakerylv.com/

 

Posted in Breakfast, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Retro Bakery

Jean Philippe at Aria [2,] Las Vegas NV

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Jean Philippe Patisserie

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Canelle, Rustic, Crunchy, Earl Grey, Gringo, Tahiti, Piemont, Caramel

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…suffice it to say that neither time nor a second location has diminished the quality of Jean Phillippe Patisserie, a second visit to the larger Aria location proving every bit as good as the first as I shared eight varieties of chocolate presented in a jewel-box display with a friend. From the bright aromatics of the cinnamon Canelle to the simple pairing of chocolate and salted caramel each of the two-bite squares was beautifully crafted with subtle nuances and with well sourced pure-bean chocolates both dark and milk providing the backbone every flavor and texture proved remarkable; the coffee spiked Gringo and rum soaked Tahiti my personal favorites, and all the better enjoyed at the restaurant’s counter overlooking the casino floor and the scene that is Sin City on Saturday night.

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http://www.aria.com/dining/restaurants/jean-philippe-patisserie

Posted in Coffee, Dessert, Food, Jean Philippe, Las Vegas, Nevada

Blossom, Las Vegas NV

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Blossom

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Sacred Fruit – Vodka, Lychee, Orchid

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Goose Liver – Touch of Black Pepper, Daikon, Carrots

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Golden Seafood Medallion – Cream Cheese, Shrimp, Crab Meat on Toast

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Walnut Prawns – Topped with Mayonnaise, Candied Walnuts, over Winter Melons

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Peking Duck – Carved Tableside, Hoisin, Bao, Wraps

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Sesame Cookies

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Dim Sum Dumplings – Cinnamon, Sesame, Coconut with Kahlua Cream, Chocolate and Passion Fruit Dips

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Pineapple Cake and Tea Takeaway

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Having spent the vast majority of my life in Ohio and thus isolated from most Asian cultures save for during my travels I’m embarrassed to say that prior to relocating to Las Vegas I’d never truly realized the grandeur of the Chinese New Year, a fete celebrated by nearly 20% of the world’s 6.5 billion people, but vowing to remedy this situation through both a literature search and at least a couple meals commemorating the Year of the Horse it was with good fortune that I found a friend happy to join me at Aria’s highly praised Blossom on Saturday night. Seemingly a cuisine underappreciated by many Americans, or at least most frequently enjoyed ‘on the cheap,’ yet one whose bold flavors I’d previously seen brought to new light by exemplary ingredients in both Toronto and New York it was just after 7:30pm when my friend and I arrived for dinner and seated at a plush two-top given full vantage of the room’s center dining area it was with stellar service from a team of at least a half dozen that the night progressed; a cocktail, quartet of savories, and a single dessert plus complimentary cookies served in three courses with every plate stunning in quality, quantity, and presentation. Starting off with a duo of creamy true/goose foie gras with pronounced sapor balanced by light pepper and seared caramelization served alongside four “medallions” melding concepts of Crab Rangoon and Shrimp Toast it would be difficult to name another spot in the States to find a better version of either, yet progressing to the ‘main course’ it was soon that round one disappeared to the ages as Chef Chi Kwun Choi’s farm raised Peking Duck arrived tableside to be deftly carved and plated by a veteran service team claiming to have performed the ritual “at least two thousand times,” the crisp and meaty skin placed delicately on bao and in pancakes with crisp vegetable and aromatic hoisin before the rest of the bird was taken to the kitchen to be disarticulated, deboned, and presented hot, supple, and ever so rich. Rounded out with large, lightly fried prawns and candied walnuts topped with delicately honeyed mayo over chilled winter melons and finally six small dumplings filled with silky Kahlua cream plus a duo of gifts for the table it would be easy for me to say Blossom was the best Chinese restaurant I’ve experienced to date but taking it one step further I’d place it amongst my ten best meals in Las Vegas; food, room, and service rivaling some of the French, Spanish, and Italian Masters at a slightly more favorable price point.

DSC01211 DSC01217 DSC01263http://www.aria.com/dining/restaurants/blossom

Posted in Blossom, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada

Montesano’s Eateria, Las Vegas NV

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Montesano’s Eateria

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Warm Bread and Garlic Knots

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Rice Balls Montesano

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Lasagna Explosions

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Homemade Meatballs and Italian Sausage

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Sicilian Pizza Fresca – Fresh tomatoes, garlic, basil, our homemade fresh mozzarella and Romano cheeses

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White Pizza – Ricotta, mozzarella, romano, butter, garlic, onions

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Cheese Pizza

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Eggplant Parmigiano with Ziti

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Tripe

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Seafood Special in Garlic Cream over Fettuccine

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Zeppole

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Rainbow Cake, Cannoli, Almond Cookie

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Butter Cookies

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Sfogadella

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Family owned and operated since the 90’s and a purveyor of traditional Italian cuisine for much longer than that Montesano’s Eateria had been on my must-visit list even before moving to Las Vegas, but with an extensive menu of classic antipasti, pizzas, pastas, soups, secondi, and sweets the timing never seemed right to sample as much as I’d like – the solution found in the Italian tradition of a family style tasting with seven friends coordinated through the lovely Toniann Montesano herself. Truly a ‘mom n’ pop’ red sauce sort of place, said in the most complimentary of ways, with a full service bakery up front and walls strewn with signed celebrity photos, maps of Italian neighborhoods in various locales, and kitschy décor it was at a long table in the rear of the restaurant that we were seated and with superlative service, ample beverage refills, and enough food for a party twice our size the nearly two-and-a-half hour meal could not have better met expectations – each plate perfectly prepared, well presented, and unquestionably delicious. Beginning first with an opening volley of house-baked bread and supple garlic knots before progressing to fried options including creamy lasagna explosions and toothsome rice balls in bright, aromatic sauce it was at the second ‘proper’ course that the meal truly took flight, a trio of pizzas ranging from simple cheese and garlicky white on lightly charred crusts alongside a pillowy ‘Margherita’ on buttery, thick focaccia-style crust that easily ranked amongst the best ‘grandma slices’ I’ve had to date. At this point sated but certainly not stuffed it was with great spectacle that our final savory course arrived and featuring two platters each of Eggplant Parmigiano, Housemade sausage and meatballs smothered in marinara, and a bounty of fresh squid/shrimp/sea snails/mussels smothered in creamy white sauce plus a bowl of supple braised tripe the table was literally covered as eyes stared wide – leftovers a guarantee, though all ate heartily with favorites varying from person to person and the tripe a personal favorite, especially atop slices of warm bread from the refreshed basket. Taking to heart the gluttonous portions provided thus far dessert was ever so slightly scaled back as hot, spongy Zeppole dowsed in powdered sugar and filled-to-order cannoli both shined brightly while Rainbow cake, Butter, and Almond cookies were spot-on authentic – a characteristic shared by a hot sfogadella that I requested as I paid the bill, ostensibly for ‘later’ had it not been so perfect…the creamy citrus filling beneath shattering layers not even making it to the car, no matter how full I was.

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http://montesanos.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Italian, Las Vegas, Montesano's, Montesano's Eateria, Nevada, Pizza, Pork, Tasting Menu

Freed’s Bakery, Las Vegas NV

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Freed’s Bakery

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Assorted Cookies (Cat’s Tongue, Marzipan, Walnut, Pecan, Chocolate Walnut, Butter, Nut Crispy)

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Sourcream Cake Sample

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Tiramisu Slice

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Wedding Cake Slice

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Red Velvet Cupcake

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Carrot Cake Cupcake

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Crispy Chocolate Roll

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Having arranged for an eight person Family Style lunch extravaganza at nearby Montesano’s Eateria it seemed somewhat illogical to visit highly praised Freed’s either before or after but having read stellar reviews of the 30-time winner of “Best Local Bakery” it seemed equally irrational to pass up the chance; “just a few cookies” I told myself…though this was clearly not how the story would end, the combination of sweets, samples, and stellar service amounting to a takeaway baker’s dozen selections for $17. Arriving early to find the store empty save for a couple undergoing a wedding cake consultation in the side room it was to a duo of clerks that I arrived and with the head baker bringing items fresh from the back the aroma was intoxicating even before I was gifted a soft piece of cake and a dipped cat’s tongue cookie – the rest taken to go and consumed in part before, and in part after lunch. Speaking first to the cookies, free thanks to a Yelp check-in, aside from the two small bars it was to servers that I deferred and with each good and the Marzipan outstanding I had high expectations for the rest, only the slightly ‘dry’ Red Velvet anything less than impressive – the Wedding Cake Slice far better than any special occasion cake I’ve been subjected to with supple layers of cream surrounding soft vanilla cake, and the warm crispy chocolate roll speckled in Belgian-style pearl sugar a well-layered and buttery delight, far better than any ‘pain au chocolate’ I’ve found stateside to date.

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http://www.freedsbakery.com/

Posted in Breakfast, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Freed's, Freed's Bakery, Las Vegas, Nevada, Tiramisu

PRESS at the Four Seasons, Las Vegas NV

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Press

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Sugared Cronut

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Chocolate Cronut

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Having now sampled the hybrid pastry on both coasts and points in between, including the original Cronut after an amusing two hour wait at Dominique Ansel it was to swanky Vegas newcomer Press Lounge at the Four Seasons that Saturday morning led me and with valet, doormen, smiling servers, and pleasantries aplenty it was just after 7am that I arrived to find a trio of still-warm “New York Style Donuts” lined up beside a few other pastries, a duo selected at $4:50 each and boxed with great care as my car idled out front. Ever service oriented and eager to please even as I snapped a few photos before tasting the goods it was first in the lightly sugared option that I indulged and featuring delicate laminated pastry beneath a light exterior crunch without a hint of oiliness this is as close to the ‘original’ as I’ve found, a supple interior chew harkening a simple butter croissant but unmistakably a donut as well – an effect replicated in the rich chocolate option, though with far more ‘mess’ as the heated ganache slowly dripped through the donut’s hole with each bite through innumerable golden layers. Admittedly still a fan of the slightly more nuanced, crisp, and less sugary “O-Nut” at DK in Santa Monica or that found locally at Coco, for those looking for an Ansel-esque croissant-donut without the airfare and 2+ hour line it is hard to argue against either “America” at New York-New York or Press, though with similar pricing the latter proves far more appealing to those adverse to navigating construction or a smoky casino floor.

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http://www.fourseasons.com/lasvegas/dining/lounges/press/

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Las Vegas, Nevada, Press, Press at the Four Seasons