Mary’s Hash House, Las Vegas NV

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Mary’s Hash House

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Biscuit with Housemade Jam (Strawberry, Apple Butter)

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Monte Cristo

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Carrot Cake

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Part of the local dining scene since 1994, long before San Diego import “Hash House A Go-Go” splashed down with gluttonous portions at no less than three separate spots, Mary’s Hash House on Decatur had always been a place I intended to go and yet for whatever reason it was not until I realized the owner hailed from my home state of Ohio that I finally committed to an early morning visit, a 6:05 am arrival finding a pair of regulars already present amidst the cozy confines as Mary and one other tended both kitchen and front of house in the most pleasant of manners.  Perhaps the most homey of places I’ve found since relocating to Sin City with aged wood furniture beneath sturdy tables and papered walls decorated by assorted knick-knacks dotting the two rooms it was with hot coffee, medium or dark, plus a menu of farm fresh favorites that I was greeted and although nearly all of the hashes and griddled favorites sounded good it was to traditional favorites that I turned, the meal kicked off by a rustic slice of carrot cake with tangy cream cheese layered on just that morning as I awaited my main course.  Truly ‘home-style’ with everything made in-house and to order including breads, jams, and jellies it would be perhaps twenty minutes and three coffee top-offs before my primary plate would arrive but proving the adage that good things come to those who wait it was with stunning results when the Monte Cristo was delivered; a true golden fried version with ham, turkey, and Swiss sealed inside ready to be gilded by maple syrup for a perfect sweet meets savory bite trumping any version of the classic sandwich that I’ve found in Las Vegas to date – a golden buttermilk biscuit with two of nearly a dozen types of jam offered as an alternative to homefries or potatoes no less impressive and briefly making me long for the Midwest…though certainly not for the February weather.

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http://www.hashouse.com

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Hash House, Las Vegas, Mary's Hash House, Nevada, Pork

chi SPACCA, Los Angeles CA

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chi SPACCA

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Affettati Misti – Coppa, Pancetta Rigatino, Speck, Calabrese, Trappist, Trotter Fritti

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Pickles

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Lardo Mantecato Pane Bianco

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Focaccia Di Recco

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Lamb Neck Stracotto

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Beef and Bone Marrow Pie, Whipped Potatoes

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Pancetta Wrapped Sweetbreads

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Moorish Lamb Shoulder Chop

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Costata Alla Fiorentina 52oz – Served Uncut by request

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Chocolate Caramel Tart

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Tiramisu

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Meyer Lemon Panna Cotta with Huckleberries

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Rarely one to target the traditional “Steakhouse” but admittedly impressed by both of my visits to Mario Batali’s temple of dry aged steaks, Carnevino, it was with high hopes for a similar experience that a reservation for Los Angeles’ chi SPACCA was obtained, expectations heightened when I found out that a good friend and well-traveled steak aficionado would be in town thus increasing our carnivorous undertaking to a party of five. Dimly lit and small in size, thus affording everyone in the room a full view of the proteins, chefs, and their interactions in the wide open kitchen it was just after 7:30 when we arrived for dinner and seated in the center of the room it was first with a bit of negotiation that we discussed options such as wine plus requests to have steaks delivered to the table un-cut and after a bit of unnecessary push-back from one young server it was the manager who stepped in, the rest of the meal smooth sailing as plates arrived in five separate waves with only the last lacking for abundant amounts of seared, roasted, grilled, or cured meat. Sufficing it to say that this chi SPACCA is not the right place for vegans, picky eaters, or those on a budget it was with a board of charcuterie alongside superlative bread from Nancy Silverton plus a spread of rosemary tinged lardo that the meal began and progressing forward to the thin, crisp focaccia sandwiching Stracchino the meal would only get better as it grew heavier, the supple sweetbreads and lamb neck my personal favorites of the meal, though the supple grassy funk of the lamb shoulder and audaciousness of buttery pastry surrounding beef stew and rich marrow were not far off – the later undoubtedly best shared by a small party given its richness. Noting only that desserts were good, the tiramisu in particular a stellar rendition, before focusing back on the tour de force that is the Costata Alla Fiorentina, suffice it to say that while “warm blue” is not my ideal preparation, this is probably as good as I’ve tasted for a steak that was not significantly aged; the exterior char only lightly salted and the interior supple with great chew, the $210 tab perhaps a bit expensive but when broken down by five and praised by all certainly not excessively so. All in all a nearly three hour feast paired with great friends, gracious service, and an intimate setting is something I’ll gladly pay a premium for and much like the rest of the Batali and Bastianich empire chi SPACCA proves exactly why the duo has been so successful from coast-to-coast; great ingredients, stellar service, and always treating the customer right.

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http://www.chispacca.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, chi SPACCA, Dessert, Food, Italian, Los Angeles, Pork, Sweetbreads, Tiramisu, Vacation

Olio Pizzeria, Los Angeles CA

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Olio

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Margherita, Half Prosciutto

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Always one to value substance over style and having heard excellent things from trusted palates about Olio Pizzeria it was largely a matter of LACMA closing early and dinner reservations for 7:30 that brought me to the small 3rd Street locale for a quick snack while wandering on my last day in Los Angeles, but no matter how good the pizza, disinterested arrogant service can never be overlooked. Conceptualized by Chef Brad Kent (who was not present during my visit) and entirely empty at the time of my 5:30 arrival it was to a kitchen staff of two, plus two servers that I arrived and with a simple order the meal seemingly started fine, though the middle-aged Hispanic Pizzaiolo on duty admittedly seemed a bit annoyed from the moment I walked in as I’d apparently disrupted his work on a few take-out orders to stretch, fire, and dress the aromatic preformed ball of dough – a process that took no more than six minutes, but one that he more-or-less refused to repeat when I attempted to order the Nutella dessert focaccia stating it would take “at least thirty or forty minutes” even though the large olive and almond wood oven capable of holding 2-3 pies stood empty save for a to-go order of sprouts. Speaking specifically to the pizza, while servers seemed pre-occupied with chatting be the stairs as my water stood empty, the version at Olio is a unique one somewhere between the leavened, soft rim of a Neapolitan and the crisp bottom of a New York slice – a firm center capable of holding the weight of lightly applied and largely unmemorable cheese but excellent tomato sauce and supple, yet slightly dry prosciutto. A decent pizza in a prime location without the wait times of Mozza for $15, one could say that Olio presents a relative bargain given the area but for my money and time I’d prefer the quality and service of Batali and Silverton or a trip to Mother Dough any day of the week.

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http://www.pizzeriaolio.com/

Posted in California, Food, Italian, Los Angeles, Olio, Olio Pizzeria, Pizza, Pork, Vacation

Honey’s Kettle Fried Chicken, Los Angeles CA

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Honey’s Kettle Fried Chicken

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Fried Chicken Breast and a Biscuit

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Blueberry Pancake

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Mini Pecan Pie for One

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Having relocated from Compton to Culver City and thus labeled a “sellout” from those prone to such accusations I’ll personally withhold judgment in that regard when saying it was a fortuitous move for myself as the restaurant had always intrigued me…just not quite enough to make the drive to Southeast LA for something I’d treat as a between meal snack. Largely unfamiliar with the surrounding area but happy to allocate free parking in the attached garage it was just after 1:30pm when I entered Honey’s Glazed and with a large crowd encompassing all ages and races it was more than a fifteen minute wait before I could even make my way to the counter and greeted with perfunctory service $9 was traded for another fifteen minute wait as I scouted for a table, eventually taking a communal spot with a family until my name was called. Prepared to order, and obviously highly subjective, my meal began with a fried breast of chicken and with large size, rich flavor, and plenty of moisture beneath the double fried crunch I only wish the batter itself had been better seasoned, though the lack of grease was welcomed as compared to many places employing such a thick coat and a touch of hot sauce plus maple syrup worked wonders – even if it did leave me craving a waffle, something Honey’s Kettle eschews for lifeless renditions of both pancakes and biscuits – the later no better than those from Pillsbury, and actually less nuanced or layered. Mostly impressed by the proteins but less by the carbohydrates it was with a freshly made pecan pie, hot from the oven, that my meal concluded and taking into account the bargain basement $2.75 tab I’d highly recommend those who are fans make it a point to stop by 9537 Culver Blvd for a taste – a crisp crust with flaky crumb, smoky toasted pecans, and subtly salted filling melding to form one of the best takes on the Southern classic that I’ve enjoyed to date.

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http://www.honeyskettle.com

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Honey’s Kettle, Honey’s Kettle Fried Chicken, Los Angeles, Pancakes, Vacation

Superba Snack Bar, Venice CA

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Superba Snack Bar

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Jalapeno Corn Bread and Honey

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Tamarind Glazed Sticky Bun

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Buttermilk Biscuit with Blood Orange Jam

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Braised Bacon

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Ricotta Pancake – Maple Dulce de Leche, Banana, Nilla Wafers, Whipped Cream

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Octopus a la Plancha – Garlic Aioli, Fingerlings, Smoked Paprika

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Tagliatelle – Dungeness Crab, Uni, Wakame, Jalapeno Miso Butter

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Smoked Bucatini Carbonara – Poached Egg, Pancetta, Black Pepper, Parmesagna

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Admittedly a promiscuous diner, happy to dine solo or in small groups with friends both new and old, brunch at Superba Snack Bar would prove one of the rare circumstances where I was fortunate enough to b ring together a quartet of like palates for ample degustation of a diverse menu in a setting happy to play along with several strong opinions and good some good-natured heckling; the “experience” certainly outstripping the cuisine even though much of it was quite delicious. Italian in theme, to the point of offering a pasta tasting at dinner, but more laid back in the daylight where sandwiches, ‘snacks,’ and a few pastas mingle with brunch staples it was with an eye on diversity that orders were placed and requesting plates be coursed out at Chef’s discretion service was perfect, the meal beginning with a trio of breads that I personally enjoyed while others found dry but then finding firm footing with the three following acts as fatty bacon, supple octopus atop crispy potatoes, and perfectly prepared pastas all shined before culminating in a pillow-soft, banana pudding themed pancake that challenged even my threshold for sweetness. All in all a good meal made better by both my friends and the staff it seems as though I’ll need to head back to Venice soon as Gjelina, Tasting Kitchen, and Superba all deserve their chance to shine after sunset…maybe more than one in a single night if I can gather the right group.

http://superbasnackbar.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Cornbread, Crab, Dessert, Food, Italian, Octopus, Pancakes, Pork, Superba Snack Bar, Vacation

Groundwork Coffee, Venice CA

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Groundwork Coffee

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Coffee Sampling

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Almond Croissant

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An impromptu stop en route to brunch at Superba Snack Bar with friends both new and old, Los Angeles based Groundwork Coffee Company on Rose Avenue would prove an admirable pick-me-up amidst trendy Venice locals both young and old; a well crafted menu of options brewed to order or self serve featuring no less than six of the organic roaster’s expertly roasted blends and single origins. An interesting setup for a local roaster with house-baked pastry and a number of drip selections all available for self serve it was to the trusty almond croissant and a small coffee that I turned and sampling my way down the line I was immediately impressed by the quality of the roasts, each gently balanced with good mouth-feel plus subtle notes all the more pronounced at home via French Press where I’ve since brewed both the Venice Blend and sun-dried La Lagunilla. A cozy spot with a good vibe and low pretense I’d personally opt for Groundwork over snooty, overcrowded import Intelligentsia on Abbot Kinney for my Venice coffee needs if I lived local…though unless one prefers their croissants of the soft, dense variety I’d strongly consider an alternative to either for my pastry needs.

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www.groundworkcoffee.com

Posted in Breakfast, California, Coffee, Croissant, Food, Groundwork Coffee, Los Angeles, Venice

Blu Jam Cafe, Los Angeles CA

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Blu Jam Café

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Blueberry Pancake with $1 Pure Maple Syrup Supplement

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Crunchy French Toast – Brioche rolled in corn flakes, topped with fresh fruit, served with vanilla bean sauce

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Coffee

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Praised by some as the reference standard for French Toast in Southern California, Blu Jam Café on Melrose had long been on my ‘to visit’ list and with two disappointing stops already behind me on my last day in town I decided to finally take the bait; an 8:05am arrival nabbing me a seat without the typical 1+ hour wait as the surprisingly sizable restaurant filled to capacity by 8:30, a small line extending to the sidewalk on an atypical grey morning. Largely there with a singular purpose in mind but happy to entertain other options it would not be long before my server greeted me with a menu and after a short delay an order were placed, the young man subsequently disappearing to the back and leaving my coffee mug dependant on me begging back servers for refills more than once during the course of my forty-five minute wait. Service issues and a particularly loud table to my left aside, when my plates finally did arrive it was admittedly to high expectations and with a fluffy blueberry pancake kicking things off the fabled French Toast that followed was merely decent, the brioche not particularly memorable and still slightly doughy beneath inconsequential cornflakes – the vanilla cream, remaining pure maple syrup, and superlative So.Cal berries all helping to buoy a plate whose critical acclaim I simply fail to comprehend.

http://www.blujamcafe.com/

Posted in Blu Jam Cafe, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Food, French Toast, Los Angeles, Pancakes, Vacation

SK’s Donuts & Croissant, Los Angeles CA

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SK’s Donuts & Croissant

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Cruller

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Apple Fritter

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Blueberry Cake

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Buttermilk Bar

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Cookies and Cream Cronut

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Nutella Cronut

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Moving on from a mixed experience at Kettle Glazed to Beverly Hill’s SK’s Donuts & Croissant with hopes of quality similar to that of Santa Monica staple “DK’s” it can only be said that nothing I’d read or heard could have prepared me for just how terrible SK;s would be, an 0-for-6 showing rivaling the recent Los Angeles Kings powerplay for futility across the board. Billed as a 24/7 venue with friendly clerks and presumably continuous baking or frying as supply dictates it was just moments after 7:30am that I arrived and inquiring as to what was fresh the pickings were slim – the cruller and nutella pointed out and ordered with personal favorites rounding out the rest. Starting first with the cruller – warm but inexplicably flaccid – before moving on to the warm cronut which would prove dense and oily it was to an inauspicious start that my tasting began and with a brief reprieve in the less heavy handed Oreo cookie cronut things would only get worse with both the bar and the blueberry dry to the point of gritty and the fritter a veritable sponge for old oil lacking any semblance of apple, cinnamon, or even ‘sweet’ – all but two bites of it and the majority of the rest left next to the store’s overflowing outdoor trash receptacle.

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http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/5/74685/restaurant/Mid-City-West/SKs-Donuts-Croissant-LA

Posted in Breakfast, California, Dessert, Food, Los Angeles, SK's Donuts, SK's Donuts & Croissant, Vacation

Kettle Glazed, Los Angeles CA

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Kettle Glazed

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Raised Glazed

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Apple Fritter

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Cruffin

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Blueberry Maple Bacon Old Fashioned

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Vanilla Old Fashioned

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Blueberry Lemon Old Fashioned

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Recently named to more than a couple “best of” lists and featuring what many claimed to be a particularly impressive collection of old-fashioneds, Kettle Glazed quickly found itself high on my list of ‘must visit’ breakfast and pastry stops in Los Angeles; convenient location and early opening hours befitting an early Sunday post-run stop. A small storefront in a rather unassuming strip mall along Franklin Avenue with a clean design and friendly service it was just after 7:00am when I arrived to find a couple regulars kibitzing with the staff and opting for a fritter plus a “cruffin” immediately it was to the others that I deferred my other four with the stipulation that anything warm would be preferred; the $9 half dozen telling a familiar tale about why freshness matters as the warm Vanilla Old Fashioned far outshined both blueberry options, the former melting on mastication while the dry, cakey duo found themselves reboxed and subsequently left for the pigeons or vagrants (along with several dreadful options from SK.) Moving on to better things, noting my predilection for cake over glazed it can certainly be said that the steamy, springy, glazed original was one of the best I’ve had in recent memory and while the fritter, too, was well executed it was the deep-fried muffin-pan croissant that impressed the most as delicate glaze gave way to buttery shattering layers straddling a fine line between Kouign Amann and catshead biscuit – a rare winner in the ever growing hybrid food movement well worth getting out of bed early for.

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http://www.kettleglazed.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Food, Los Angeles, Pork, Vacation

Ramekin, Los Angeles CA

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Ramekin

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Pink Lady Kouign Amann

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Fresh Baked Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Bread Pudding with Vanilla Gelato

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Having foolishly assumed Mother Dough to lack a proper dessert menu I’d admittedly researched “made-from-scratch” dessert shop Ramekin weeks prior to my departure for Los Angeles but with a long day of eating behind me I nearly scrapped the idea of a late night visit entirely until my server at the aforementioned pizzeria suggested I “really should go – the bread pudding is amazing” as we chatted following my meal; those last four words the sort that could drive me onto the I-405 at rush hour let alone see me walk a few measly blocks. Lodged amongst bars streaming guitars and drums into the street but demarcated by large signage and bright whites it was to a small crowd that I arrived and with some folks enjoying board games while others surfed the free WiFi or chatted with friends I spent a few moments perusing the menu before placing my order – a trio of choices I was told would take approximately fifteen minutes but one that would instead take nearly forty when a swell of three new parties arrived filling the interior space plus patio to capacity as the small staff of four struggled to keep pace. Utilizing a limited kitchen and thus batching items to order it was actually in two rounds that my selections arrived and beginning first with a twist on the Breton butter pastry I have to say I was underwhelmed, the stewed apples rendering the classic crunch flaccid and leaving me to wonder why not make both a good tarte tatin and a top quality Kouign Amann – a question all the more relevant when the second course presented two rustic standbys the likes of which would make many Americans question whether grandma’s version really was “best,” the cookie golden at the edges and gooey within while the bread pudding featured innumerable brioche croutons tossed with dark chocolate and imbued with cream, a ball of velvety vanilla ice cream slowly dissolving to meld crunchy top and molten core…”amazing” indeed.

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http://ramekinla.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, California, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Los Angeles, Ramekin, Vacation

Mother Dough, Los Angeles CA

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Mother Dough

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Margherita, Half Prosciutto

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Oven Roasted Pear, Frangelico, Mascarpone, Shaved Chocolate

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Located on Hollywood Blvd in Los Feliz and open until 11pm it was to highly regarded pizzeria Mother Dough that I pointed my GPS as I sought solace from another Kings defeat and with good fortune and light traffic the four mile drive passed quickly, a seat directly next to the pizza counter and enormous wood burning oven mine for the taking just fifteen minutes later. Claimed by some to be the best Neapolitan pizza in Los Angeles it was admittedly with a bit of surprise that I found the long and narrow space empty save for one couple at the time of my 10:15pm arrival but with a quiet atmosphere and superlative service perhaps it was a blessing in disguise as I was able to chat with the staff while watching every second of my order’s careful creation from hand stretching of the box-leavened dough to a final drizzle of olive oil atop drapes of buttery prosciutto applied at my request to just one half. Truly a dazzling pie with light tang and great chew beneath subtle char it should go without saying that the ‘dough’ is firmly thrust in the spotlight, as it should be with any pizza, but with a sauce flavored only of pure tomato and light basil plus lightly briny cheese one would be hard pressed to call any aspect of the pie less than perfect, the $17 masterpiece consumed in short order and followed by an equally simple and thoroughly delightful dessert of pears flamed in a cast iron skillet close to the wood; the smoke and char proving an admirable foil to the boozy Nutella-esque tones of Frangelico, mascarpone, and dark cocoa – an $8 tab worth every penny and excellent consolation for the disaster at Dodger Stadium just hours before.

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http://www.motherdoughpizza.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Los Angeles, Mother Dough, Pizza, Pork, Vacation

Connie & Ted’s, Los Angeles CA

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Connie & Ted’s

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Live Uni + Butter Toast

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Jo’s Wicked Good Chowda – New England, Manhattan, Rhode Island Sampler

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Lobster Roll with Hot Drawn Butter and Fries

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Fried Clams with Bellies, Fries

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Hot Buttered Rolls

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Macaroni and Cheese

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Chocolate Chip Cookies

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Huckleberry Whoopie Pie

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Indian Pudding – Cornmeal and Molasses, Vanilla Ice Cream

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Blondie – Vanilla Ice Cream, Salted Caramel Sauce

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Espresso on Ice

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With the Kings/Ducks Stadium Series game facing off at 7:00 and traffic in LA ever-awful it was good fortune that I discovered Providence chef Michael Cimarusti’s take on the classic East Coast seafood shack to be open from lunch through dinner on weekends and rounding up a couple of friends a 4:00pm arrival time found trendy West Hollywood hotspot “Connie & Ted’s” just over half full, free parking and impressive service just two of the many rewards for dining at the off-hour. Featuring an extensive beer list as well as espresso shots pulled to order it was with drinks in hand that we sat perusing the menu amidst the spacious blonde-wood and polished-tile dining area and minding the classics it would not be long before orders were placed, items both raw and cooked beginning to arrive shortly thereafter in a progression of flavors building in heft with each subsequent plate. Clearly the sort of place where quality sourcing pays great dividends in simplistic preparations it should come as no surprise that with a name like Cimarusti at its helm dishes such as live urchin served in its shell with buttered toast, fried clams with their briny bellies, and a 1-lb lobster roll with drawn butter would prove reference standard but moving on to items slightly more open to interpretation it was in the trio of chowders that the quality of the kitchen truly shined; each piping hot with great depth of flavor and complexity, the NE-style a personal favorite but the spicy RI version not far behind and each nicely complimented by both the house-made oyster crackers and the delectable buttered rolls. Never one to leave without dessert, the sweet side of Connie & Ted’s would follow the Northeast trend in serving up both a decent rendition of classic Indian Pudding and an impressive whoopee pie stuffed with huckleberry cream and jam alike, but it was without a doubt the restaurant’s signature Blondie that stole the show as crispy golden edges gave way to a pudding soft center gilded with rich vanilla ice cream and thick salted caramel – the perfect accoutrement to a second iced espresso ending a meal that happily lived up to traditions and expectations established nearly 3,000 miles away.

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http://www.connieandteds.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Coffee, Connie & Ted's, Connie and Ted's, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Lobster, Los Angeles, Vacation

The Tasting Kitchen, Venice CA

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The Tasting Kitchen

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Panier de Patisseries – French Toast, Pane con Carne, Biscuit and Milk Jam, Sticky Bun, Chocolate Brioche, Ricotta Muffin

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Fried Chicken and Waffle

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Ricotta/Apple/Farro Crumble

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Fried Oyster/Spinach/Bacon/Eggs

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Grilled Gruyere and Figs

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Duck Confit – Soft Scramble, Spinach

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Coffee

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Located on trendy Abbot Kinney and helmed by Portland pedigreed Chef Casey Lane “The Tasting Kitchen” had always been one of those restaurants falling just shy of my ‘short list’ for one reason or another but with one of my friends consistently raving not only the dinner menu but also the brunch it was to the latter that I finally decided to commit – he, myself and one other friend settling in for a nearly two hour romp through a veritable smorgasbord of locally sourced and stylized cuisine in the open, airy dining room just after 10:30am. Rustic yet upscale with wooden tables and amicable but professional service it would be mere moments after seating that coffee was filled and although the crowd soon swelled to capacity our table was never once left for want, each of the six courses arriving with steady pacing and clean share plates from which to indulge on portions seemingly far larger than modest prices would indicate for such refined cooking and well sourced products. Bearing in mind the terrific reviews of Lane’s work with produce, proteins, and eggs but always one to fancy sweet to savory it was without hesitation that orders were placed and arriving first, as requested, the meal started out of the gate with a stunner – the $29 pastry board without a doubt the best I’ve ever been served; the French toast a custard imbued brioche masterpiece with pure maple syrup, the sticky bun a molten round of yeast and butter with intense sweetness, and the biscuit as good or better than any I had down south while the rest were only slightly less memorable – a high baking standard that would continue to the golden grilled cheese with fresh figs and peppery arugula served alongside a low bowl of warm ricotta with sliced apple and crunchy, honey-tinged farro. Using the cheese as a sort of transition from sweet to savory it was mostly unsurprising that the next trio of plates would prove equally impressive as those that preceded them and while crisp confit with creamy eggs and spicy fried chicken atop a reference standard crunchy waffle were lovely it was the restaurant’s take on the Hangtown Fry that stole the spotlight as briny bivalves popped alongside smoky braised bacon and fluffy eggs with rich mascarpone acting to soften and meld the omelet into something far greater than the sum of its already impressive parts.

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http://www.thetastingkitchen.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Los Angeles, Pork, Tasting Kitchen, The Tasting Kitchen, Vacation, Venice, Waffles

Natas Pastries, Sherman Oaks CA

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Natas Pastries

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Pyramid – Dark Chocolate Brownie, Marzipan, Kahlua

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Nata – Crème Brulee Portuguese Custard in Flaky Shell

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Pasteis de Feijao – Almonds, White Beans, Fondant, Chocolate

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Bola de Berlin – Malassadas with Pastry Cream

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Portuguese Sweet Bread Pudding – Coconut Milk and Raisins

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Morgado – Almond Tart, Marzipan, Fondant

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Brandade/Bacalhau Croquette

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Continuing my exploration of the local area after breakfast a quick walk down Ventura Boulevard brought me to Portuguese Bakery, Nata’s, and although it was my intention to simply order a few of the signature egg custards those plans quickly disintegrated the moment I walked it the door a found myself face to face with a pastry case of no less than three dozen options, many of which I’d never even heard of let alone experienced firsthand. Featuring a small kitchen with an intriguing dine-in menu and stellar service from the clerk and owner alike it was admittedly with some sadness that I already had brunch/lunch plans and therefore couldn’t stay for the French Toast or Bacalhau and Eggs but opting for a fresh Salt Cod fritter with perfect crisp-gives-way-to-creamy texture and deferring to the experts for a half dozen pastries for later my visit was nonetheless well rewarded at the modest sum of $20 after tax and tip. Speaking to the quality of the pastry while ignoring the bread pudding which was simply not sweet enough for my American tongue each of the other five options would prove to be a novel taste experience covering a variety of flavors and textures from the dense unsweetened cocoa of the pyramid to the sugar gilded Bola, a lightly leavened egg-bread take on the Bavarian, and onward to both flaky tarts – the Nata better than most traditional Chinese takes on the dish with a jiggly unset center and the Pasteis de Feijao featuring a similar crust but dense, nutty crumb replicated and quadrupled in size for the outstanding Morgado.

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http://www.nataspastries.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, California, Dessert, Food, Los Angeles, Natas Pastries, Sherman Oaks, Vacation

Crave Cafe, Sherman Oaks CA

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Crave Café

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Chocolate Bread Pudding

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Crunchy French Toast

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Illy

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PB&J Cookie

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Red Velvet Cupcake

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Staying with a friend in swanky Sherman Oaks, an area of Los Angeles previously unexplored, it was with my standard morning run that the day began and opting to explore the valleys, hills, and neighborhoods by foot thereafter a long walk brought me to 24/7 Crave Café just after 7am – the combined half-marathon morning’s exercise stirring an carbohydrate craving to which the restaurant’s kitchen and bakery were well suited to say the least. A surprisingly large space with kitschy décor, hip but friendly service, and free Wi-Fi plus a 80s soundtrack ranging from Phil Collins to Skid Row it admittedly took some restraint to limit my order given the extensive day ahead but focusing on personal favorites much of what followed was great. Beginning with an Illy Americano at a mere $2 it was with a large roll of brioche bread pudding studded with chocolate and warmed in the oven that I began and with butter, custard, and dark chocolate all well represented the result was amongst the best of its style; praise equally befitting the dense, moist cupcake slathered with thick, semi-sour cream cheese. Enjoying pastry slowly as I awaited my ‘main-course,’ it should be noted that the oft-raved PB&J cookie arrived slightly dry – potentially a leftover from the day/night prior – but served hot from a griddle the cornflake crusted French Toast would suffer no such fate, the bread itself golden with a soft interior and falling short of excellence only due to the artificial maple syrup as I’d have gladly paid a dollar or two more for the real deal.

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http://www.cravecafes.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Crave Cafe, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Los Angeles, Sherman Oaks, Vacation

Rustic Canyon, Santa Monica CA

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Rustic Canyon

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Marcona Almonds – Lavender Sugar and Sea Salt

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Fried Stone Valley Pork Trotter – Citrus, Yuzu Aioli, Wild Sorrel from Atwater

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Beets and Berries – Reed Avocado, Rancho Gordo Quinoa, Pistachio Soil

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Coppa di Testa of Stone Valley Pork – Grilled Bread Salad, McGrath Farms Arugula

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Springbrook Farms Raclette on Toast – Gribenes with Onion, Sunny Egg, Rich Chicken Broth

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Squid Ink Chiatarra – Salt Cod Alfredo, Black Pepper, Nutmeg, English Pea Pistou

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Ricotta Gnocchi – Apple Sauce, Sunchoke, Mushroom Streusel

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Roasted Chicken – Tahitian Squash Spaetzle, Brussels Sprouts, Sage and Hazelnut

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Crispy Weiser Farms PeeWee Potatoes – Chicken Giblet Gravy

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Echo Mountain Blue, Tarentaise, Landaff, Coupole, Milo & Olive Bread, Panforte, Qunice

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Apple Cinnamon Beggar’s Purse – Bavarian Whipped Cream

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Chocolate Walnut Cake – Candied Walnuts, Vanilla Whipped Cream

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One of Los Angeles’ most celebrated restaurants in recent years despite an ever changing parade in the kitchen, Josh Loeb’s Rustic Canyon had long been on my culinary radar but it was not until nomad Chef Jeremy Fox took over that the Santa Monica staple of local-artisanal cuisine became a personal destination – a bit of regret for missing his tenure at Ubuntu still lingering but high hopes that Southern California’s bounty could rekindle the magic of his Michelin starred Napa cuisine. A high ceilinged space heavy with wood and white, dim lighting and closely set tables it was just after 9:00pm when myself and two friends sat down for dinner and with only one item sold out for the night our ordering strategy proved simple, a few selections from each section of the tapas-style menu plus one large course, cheese, and desserts – the subsequent 135 minutes comprised of a dozen plates of immaculate food impressive in not only in its imagination, but also in its simplicity. Never the sort to employ tricks, foams, or culinary gadgetry but instead focused on pairing impeccable ingredients to coax the maximum of texture and flavor out of each item it really stood as no surprise that the meal began with sweet almonds giving way to gentle floral notes and subsequently proving a deft hand balancing hefty proteins like head cheese and trotters with vegetals and citrus the courses only grew stronger as the night moved on. Clearly having spent time refining his pasta it was after salads that heavier courses arrived and while ricotta gnocchi proved delicate and impressive it was in the Chiatarra that I found my bliss, a plate of hand cut black pasta thick with brandade rendered to sauce, a bit of sweetened peas and nutmeg offering balance to the salinity of a plate I’ve no doubt will be one of this year’s ten best. Showing impressive skills with both proteins and vegetables as a main course of crispy roasted chicken plus accompanying sweet spaetzle shined and progressing right into an interesting cheese plate with top quality bread plus delicious, albeit simple desserts it should simply be said that a night at Rustic Canyon is something everyone in Los Angeles should experience and as long as Chef Fox is at the helm the restaurant will pose a strong temptation for me to make the four-hour drive from Sin City, particularly as spring and summer flavors bloom.

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http://www.rusticcanyonwinebar.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Los Angeles, Pork, Rustic Canyon, Santa Monica, Vacation

DK’s Donuts & Bakery, Santa Monica CA

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DK’s Donuts & Bakery

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Apple Fritter

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Blueberry Fritter

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Buttermilk Bar

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Vanilla Glazed Cruller

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Sourcream Old Fashioned

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Blueberry Cake

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Taro O-Nut

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Red Velvet O-Nut

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Arriving in Santa Monica nearly two hours prior to dinner reservations with friends it was once more to So.Cal’s signature sweet that I turned, a long planned visit to DK’s Donuts & Bakery yielding some of the most impressive and affordable deep-fried pastries I’ve experienced to date. A small shop with an enormous selection of classics, fancies, and recently minted “O-Nuts” plus a variety of Asian influenced flavors it was to a short line and consistent flow of traffic that I arrived and watching a number of options emerge hot from the kitchen my order wrote itself, a half dozen +2 tallying a mere $14.60 and every option good with four, all warm from the fryer, warranting special mention. Beginning first with the simplest, suffice it to say that the old fashioned was light on oil and high on glaze lending perfect balance to soft sour cream and moving next to the cruller, crispy outside with a wispy custard center, it almost seemed things couldn’t get better…a misconception soon set straight by the crisp, laminated Taro O-Nut – a subtly sweet upgrade on Ansel’s invention in nearly all ways (at half the price) – and finally by the best Buttermilk Bar I’ve experienced to date, the warmth clearly playing a large part in the experience as a delicate crumb literally melted on the tongue with sharp tangy tones poking through sweet glaze; at 95 cents a strong contender for the most extraordinary thing I’ve ever eaten for less than a buck.

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http://www.dksdonuts.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Dessert, DK Donuts, DK’s Donuts, DK’s Donuts & Bakery, Food, Los Angeles, Santa Monica, Vacation

Scoops, Los Angeles CA

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Scoops

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Malt Oreo and Caramel Butterfinger

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Samples of Brown Bread, Rootbeer, Blueberries and Cream, Bourbon Butter Pecan

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One of many in the ever-growing small-batch artisan ice cream movement it was largely a matter of location that led me to Scoops, the latest in a slowly growing chain located directly next to Donut Friend. Nearly indistinguishable as an eatery given the small storefront and lack of signage it was to a single clerk with no other patrons that I entered the store and clearly happy for the business/company of an interested patron a long conversation and tasting ensued, my eventual order two substantial scoops for a mere $3 plus a $1 tip. Featuring a rich, creamy base and up front flavors with a smooth finish in each and every sample it was on a classic “American” combination that I eventually settled and with malt tones balancing cookie sweetness I particularly enjoyed the clever take on cookies and cream throughout while the latter unfortunately became slightly cloying past a few bites – the brown bread’s toasty rye tones likely representing a better option for those seeking something more subtle or unique.

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http://www.scoopswestside.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Los Angeles, Scoops, Vacation

Donut Friend, Los Angeles CA

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Donut Friend

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Apple Pie – Cake Donut Stuffed with Caramelized Apples, Cheddar, topped w/ caramel glaze and toasted peanut

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GG Almond – Yeasted Donut Stuffed with Gruyere and honey, topped with glaze and almonds

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Caramel on Parade – Chocolate Cake Donut topped with caramel, toasted pecans, chocolate sauce

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Nutellavision – Yeasted Donut with Nutella, Olive Oil, Glaze, Kosher Salt

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Apple Fritter – Baked Apples in Yeasted Dough

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Minus the Bear Claw – Peanut Butter and Strawberry Jam, Toasted Almonds

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Considered by many to be the best doughnut scene in the United States, seemingly an independent mom ‘n pop shop turning out glazed rings on every corner, my first stop on a weekend trip to Los Angeles started at trendy Northeast newcomer, “Donut Friend.” Certainly not the classic doughnuttery, instead opting for a few traditional styles sliced and filled and/or topped with designer ingredients it was with a wide diversity of options that I found myself presented and setting aside slightly exorbitant prices I opted for a half dozen inclusive of cake, chocolate cake, yeasted, fritter, and bearclaw; the results thankfully justifying the $22 tab at almost every turn. Featuring friendly, educated service happy to discuss owner Mark Trombino’s culinary concept, interesting back story (available here – http://grantland.com/hollywood-prospectus/this-sweetness-will-not-be-concerned-with-me-a-day-at-music-producer-mark-trombinos-rock-doughnut-shop,) and clever titles at length it would be difficult to say which of my selections was “best,” but with each fork-and-knife amalgamation featuring elements both sweet and savory I particularly loved the complex flavor profile of the warm Apple Pie and rich, smooth finish of Nutellavision – each on par with many plated restaurant delicacies – while the Apple Fritter was reference standard, a greaseless golden crunch overlying freshly mashed cinnamon apples and a downy-soft crumb. Taken best as a ‘dessert shop’ rather than a simple doughnut vendor Donut Friend is without a doubt worth the cost, calories, and perhaps even the traffic…and not just from Los Angeles, but possibly even Las Vegas.

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http://donutfriend.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Donut Friend, Food, Los Angeles, Vacation

Mixers Ice Cream & Boba, Las Vegas NV

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Mixers Ice Cream & Boba

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Taro, Azuki Bean, Black Sesame with Mochi in a house made Waffle Bowl

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A surprisingly under recognized shop given their nearly 17 years in the local market, Mixers Ice Cream & Boba had been on my ‘to try’ list ever since I heard that each of their thirty-plus ice creams or gelatos were made in house and with an extensive day of eating already behind me plus two slices of cake from Jerry’s serving as ‘dinner’ there seemed no better way to round out the evening than with a sundae – no less one consisting of three traditional Chinese flavors topped with house made mochi in a fresh baked waffle bowl. A small shop cleverly appointed with cutesy décor and a few traditional packaged candies to go along with an extensive list of boba, frozen confections, waffles, ice cream cakes, and even French fries it was to a small line that I arrived and after a short wait what followed can only be described as plethoric tasting session including sweet cream, butter pecan, jackfruit, lychee, cake batter, cheesecake, ginger, Thai tea, and more before settling on a traditional trio of Taro and Azuki Bean Ice Creams plus Black Seasame Gelato, a scoop of mochi and a spritz of whipped cream adding texture and the entirety of the amalgam impressively well flavored without being overly saccharine in the least. Perhaps not as ‘trendy’ as Snowflake – though also serving snow ice – or esoteric as Art of Flavors – though with a much more extensive menu – and featuring lovely service in a pleasant setting there is no doubt in my mind that this will not be my last visit to Mixers; the avocado boba smoothie, red velvet waffle sundae, ice cream cake pops, and churros are all calling.

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http://www.mixersicecreamlv.com/

 

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Las Vegas, Mixers, Mixers Ice Cream & Boba, Nevada