Sweet Potato Waffle with Whipped Cream, Almonds, Maple Syrup
Continuing an aggressive dining agenda on the day of the Colorado vs. Detroit Alumni game that originally lured me into town, it was to local coffee stalwart Crema that I turned for Friday morning breakfast, the service far more friendly than trendy spots in Brooklyn or The
Bay Area with baked goods as well as brews on par with all but the very best.
Located on the border of LoDo and downtown, nearby parking available at a row of shops just off the main drag for no fee, entrance to Crema is likely to be met by a line of variable size and with baristas around a corner local art and an open kitchen provide a warm first impression, several locals working on their computers or engaged in quiet conversation.
Roasting some of their own beans, but also proudly boasting a lineup of the world’s very best purveyors of single origin beans, the daily coldbrew featured Intelligentsia on this particular morning and pairing it with pastries for both now and later an order from the kitchen was assigned a number, first bites of a warm Cherry Almond Muffin proving moist, dense and rich with flavor as the coldbrew was well filtered with great body and almost no residual acidity.
Turning attention next to the buttery Kouign Amann given a Baklava bath via lacquer of honey and tight spirals round about crushed nuts, it was not long before the $7 Waffle arrived tableside, the cost an undoubted steal given the quality of crunch over spongy center as light spice notes flooded the palate bolstered by a light pour of pure maple syrup and house whipped cream.
Not looking to reinvent the wheel with their chocolate chip cookie, but going for broke with an “everything” cookie that came across like Oatmeal Raisin with any number of treasures including Oreo Cookies to be found throughout its chewy base, a few more minutes were spent listening to music amidst the reclaimed wood interior, the range of tunes well suited to the clientele without veering into the typical cliché “hipster” stuff.
Told by many of a house charcuterie program worth investigating, in addition to a menu not for lack in terms of personal favorite plates, it was through Public Relations that a degustation was arranged at Colt & Gray, the food hitting several high notes throughout the evening with service that is charming, though a bit less ‘formal’ than one might anticipate.
Toqued and owned by Nelson Perkins, a Colorado native who actually came to the kitchen later in life than most, Colt & Gray has been a mainstay of the Denver dining scene since mid-2009 and with a sleek and stylish layout centered around the popular bar plus floor to ceiling glass wine room the informal ‘steakhouse’ feel is avoided through the use of several rustic flourishes, not the least of which include paintings by local artists as well as a fully functional fireplace.
Trained in several highly touted kitchens, the most notable of which include a stint at Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Perkins brings a strong dedication to ingredient quality to a menu that is familiar yet wide-ranging, his focus on domestic butchery noteworthy to those in search of local game, the more esoteric cuts offered alongside a collection of appetizers, salads, sides and steaks.
Served by a young woman most recently a nearby barista, her smiling conversation welcomed as the meal unfolded somewhat slowly, dinner began with a smoky little canapé before launching into a plate of housemade cured meats, the two-year old Prosciutto and pan-seared “Porchetta Di Testa” both reference standard bites while creamy chicken liver and coppa were also well crafted, the complimentary pickles and aromatic chutney perfect for cleansing the palate, even for somewhat who generally prefers something sweet.
Partially self selecting the courses, a fixed $100 cost presenting a modest deal even though I’d have generally preferred smaller portions and more plates, Chef Perkins’ Foie Gras was one case where I was happy to eat a full helping, the exterior caramelized to a light crunch while the center was as soft as pudding, the rich sapor finding its foil in Luxardo Cherry Pan Sauce and an elegant Cocoa tuile.
Opting against wine and therefore happy to see sorbet wash the palate before tasting tender potato dumplings that shined amidst winter squash, brown butter and sage, the meals most memorable course soon arrived in the form of a whole Squab in two preparations, the breast lightly sauteed just past rare with the legs braised and crispy, the combination of juicy prunes, pickled chard, and mushrooms all working in harmony with braising Jus to create a flavor far greater than the sum of its parts.
Not foolish enough to pass up locally raised Lamb from a kitchen with such a passion for its proteins, both the loin and housemade sausage were richly flavored atop a medley of local produce tinged in curry, Colt & Gray’s signature Sticky Toffee Pudding every bit as good as the rumors while the Banana Financier was also quite delicious, though visually compromised by an oblong ring and melting ice cream due to a lengthy delay in its delivery and the nearby fireplace’s heat.
Easily the most innovative restaurant to open in Denver over the past several years, it was at Rebel Restaurant that I sat down to dinner Thursday evening, and although perhaps a bit out of the way by some accounts the Dive Bar turned culinary concept built by Kickstarter is firing on all cylinders, not one of seven plates failing to induce excitement through its combination of textures and flavors.
Toqued by Dan Lasily and loosely described as Ukranian cuisine, though Asian and Western European concepts clearly come into play in terms of plating, seasoning and style, sitting down at the bar is a good bet for solo diners as the rest of the space includes communal tables topped with stylish pitchers, the Dark Metal soundtrack loud enough to be heard though equally easy to ignore.
Decorated inside and out by local artists, the Street-style sensibilities entirely in line with food that even the barmen can describe in great detail, any meal at Rebel should begin with housemade jerky sold by the ounce and no less so the daily Pierogi which was offered here tinged in Squid Ink atop a bed of Babaganoush with a pad of herb butter slowly melting and every bit worth the bargain basement cost.
Benefitted by Happy Hour discounts, though menu prices themselves are exceedingly affordable considering the ingredient quality and detail involved in each plate, dinner continued with a large bowl of crispy fried tripe topped in squeaky curds plus spiced gravy fortified by creamy duck liver, the tender cornmeal hushpuppies consisting of nearly half crustacean with the bright gastrique playing well off briny bacon and buttery cabbage.
Acknowledging a second dinner to follow, but unable to pass up an entrée or desserts, savory seafood Panna Cotta proved every bit as elegant as its constituents would indicate, and far less stiffened by gelatin than some versions the custard reminisced of Bisque in a good way beneath spicy Diavolo Sauce and earthy chips that contrasted sweet lobster meat, the PB&J presenting every bit as much intrigue with a soft, spongy base and “Wonderbread” whipped topping while the upside down cake was actually quite traditional but delicious just the same.
Until 6 in the Mornin’ – Brown Sugar Buttercream, Cinnamon Glaze, Brown Sugar Streusel
Coffee from Carbon
Cleverly named with a Pink Cross marking the entrance, in a city where recreational Marijuana is widely embraced as Dispensaries demarcated in Green feature equally catchy titles, Habit Doughnut Dispensary is the latest entry in Denver’s Artisan Doughnut culture, though a trio of attempted visits would indicate that reports of greatness and long hours may, in fact, be just rumors.
Attached to Carbon Coffee, a kitsch Eatery and Roaster located in LoHi, it was late Tuesday evening that I originally attempted to pay Habit a visit, but finding lights dimmed at 10:30pm with only a handful of rings available an earlier morning was planned for Thursday, in this case an abrupt young woman informing me that the bulk of the frying would not be complete for “at least another hour.”
Equally weak with the online menu as it is with regard to business times, many of the suggested creations not present at any point during the designated day, it was finally around 2pm Thursday that a visit showed a full complement of Habit’s offerings, the same young lady now appearing a bit more pleasant while another worker was visible behind her working with fresh dough and glaze.
No doubt focused on esoterica, even the “Glazed” and ring adding a bit of malt to offset a generous shellac of sugar, it was with a half-dozen boxed for nearly $20 that the options were taken next door to pair with coffee, the coldbrew bold and completely devoid of acidity with subtle fruit notes providing for an smooth and complex linger.
Working from mild to more robust, the lone base a soft-sponge that is neither traditional yeast nor quite as dense as cake, tastes of the lightly toasted “Blazed” proved far less impressive than the Grilly D offered at Glazed and Confuzed while follow-ups of Daily Chai and the doughnuttery’s namesake were only slightly more compelling, the “Jumbleberry” tasting overly sweet and artificial while the former reminisced the aromatics of spiced tea despite streusel that only got in the way while adding a bit of texture.
Taking an odd approach to toppings, only half “The Sell Out…Sorry,” featuring bacon dust while a small pile of nuts next to cookie crumbs was clearly a visual decision as opposed to one based on taste atop “Peanut The Darkside,” the biggest insult of the afternoon was a price of $4 for the “Until 6 in the Mornin’” sandwich, a virtually inedible option to even the most sugar-craving diner as the center was thick with “Brown Sugar Buttercream” that ate like an oversized Praline with a chalky and unpleasant mouthfeel.
Honey Cheese Bread – Freshly Baked Bread with Rocky Mountain Honey and Cheddar Cheese
1lb Honey White Mountain Pie with Beau Jo’s Pizza Sauce and Sausage
Opting to take a trip to the mountains, the site of Buffalo Bill’s Grave offering a beautiful vantage and plenty of fresh air, it was ignoring warnings of “touristy” and “overrated” that I stopped into Beau Jo’s original Idaho Springs location, the food admittedly not all that spectacular though the scene and smiling service more than hold their own.
Known for “Famous Mountain Pies,” and expanding since 1973 by both Super-Sizing the original and sending satellites out to Denver, Boulder plus the ‘burbs, visitors to any Beau Jo’s will find a menu of Pizzas offered “by the pound” alongside several appetizers, pastas, entrees and salads – the latter oddly offered at via bar inside a bathtub.
No doubt a tourist destination, long lines during Ski Season filling nearly three-hundred seats from time to time, it was just after opening on a Thursday that I entered the spacious foyer and immediately offered a choice of tables a four-top in the West Wing was selected, walls draped in oddities and even a mockup of a gold-rusher descending into a mine.
Loudly and unapologetically blaring music, the mix ranging Country to Classic Rock, it was largely with options pre-decided that a two-part order was elected, a slight delay encountered as a table of local firefighters took precedence with a total of more than twenty pounds of cheese, dough and sauce.
Opting only for the classics it was with Beau Jo’s Honey Cheese Bread that the meal got started, the base reminiscent of focaccia with subtle intrinsic sweetness enhanced by a drizzle of locally sourced honey atop melted Cheddar Cheese, and left to the decision of adding even more gold stuff via squeeze-bottle the appetizer was easily transitioned to a dessert offering, a similar option available for the each dish ordered to follow.
Implementing a baking method that essentially uses double-sized dough rolled over at the edges in order to create a mighty ring around a center that eats like many national chains, the 1lb Mountain Pie with Beau Jo’s Sauce and Sausage was soon delivered as my entrée and although neither sauce nor cheese was particularly compelling the meat was both ample and nicely spiced, a welcome addition helping to mellow the robust rim of Honey White crust.
Custard Toast – Soaked in Nutmeg Custard Overnight, Griddled, Baked, Garnished with Orange Marmalade and Berries
Located on West 38th Avenue with a reputation as one of the best spots for breakfast in town, it was with a local friend that I sat down at The Universal and although only open from 7am-2:30pm daily the homey restaurant nonetheless takes itself very seriously, everything from food to service highly praised by patrons as well as media ever since opening the doors in late 2012.
Described as “Southern” by some, though recent culinary trends would more appropriately classify the menu as Modern American Comfort Food with craftsmanship and quality sourcing helping to enliven even the most basic omelet or hash, it was in acknowledging my friend’s Vegetarianism and my substantial Sweet Tooth that a four-part order was created, the tiny $22 tab literally raising eyebrows in the setting of so much food.
No longer under the toque of its opening chef, though staff turnover has seemingly done little to diminish to quality or popularity of the space, it was acknowledging at 20-minute prep-time for The Universal’s signature entrée that locally roasted Coffee from Coda was sipped slowly, a sizable wedge of cornbread rich with butter amidst toothsome textures while a fluffy biscuit separated in soft layers ready to be gilded in honey or housemade fruit puree.
Okaying both main plates to be served simultaneously, the hubcap size short-stack eating far lighter than one might guess considering a substantial studding with Bananas and toasted Nuts, there is little doubt that the morning’s spotlight shined most brightly upon Nutmeg soaked Brioche souffled after a quick pan searing, the pure Maple Syrup blending nicely with bitter Orange Marmalade and a handful of Fresh Fruit.
Narrow and rustic with a location in Denver’s Lower Highland area, Wooden Spoon Café & Bakery is touted by many as one of the city’s best breakfast eateries and featuring a short menu of breakfast as well lunch classics made largely from local ingredients an early morning visit largely confirmed the rumors, all eight items selected not only well priced but also quite delicious.
Homey in décor with friendly service that never seems short on smiles, entry to Wooden Spoon is likely to find small crowds just minutes after opening and with several styles of baked goods offered the only question becomes whether to dine-in or opt for a to-go order, and exactly where to focus.
Truly a diverse selection, though homestyle Americana clearly is a focus, those opting to take a seat at Wooden Spoon are offered tables as well as a small bar along the window and with selections suggested warmed-to-order I could not help but pick the restaurant’s bread pudding to begin with, the day-old chocolate croissants further upgraded through the addition of chocolate chips as well as coconut, each bite dense with flavor and softly accented by vanilla custard.
Maintaining some semblance of lamination even when saturated it should come as no surprise that both the Almond Croissant and fruit-filled Danish were well constructed and crisp with a shattering shell overlying buttery insides, and moving on to a scone that balances pockets of fruit with those of butter the texture is certainly more “muffin” than “British,” but in my opinion all the better for it.
Excelling in the craftsmanship of three cookies, edges crisp while the center eats soft, chewy and lower in sugar than one may expect, those fancying Carrot Cake should put Wooden Spoon towards the top of their “short list” when searching for the best in the Mile High City, each bite awash with cinnamon and nutmeg with tangy notes added by smooth cream cheese frosting.
Harlot’s Halo – Leopold Bros Navy Strength Gin, Lemon Curd, Orange Tea Syrup, Lemon Juice
Pretzel Bites with Beer Cheese and Spicy Mustard
Ham & Cheese Croquettes with Herb Aioli
Apple Fritters with Cardamom Anglaise
Suggested by friends as “a Speakeasy that takes its food seriously” Williams & Graham has been impressing Mile High City citizens since 2011 and although rumors of long waits as a marketing tactic have been espoused by some a 5:30pm arrival granted almost immediate entry to the bar behind a bookcase where service was nothing short of exemplary.
No doubt a place that takes its concept seriously, the barmen including owner Sean Kenyon exceedingly educated about their booze and happy to create any drink a guest can conceive, Williams & Graham features just the right mix of ambiance and intelligence to avoid feeling contrived or pretentious, the low lighting and leather perhaps expected while the vibe is actually far more “chill” than trendy.
Seated at the bar where guests are greeted with a gift of Pear Brandy, Lime Juice and fizz while a substantial drink list is explained as divided by spirit, those easily intimidated are encouraged to discuss preferences with one of three bartenders and although the classics are low-hanging fruit for such a skilled team there is never really a push to up-sell, a few elderly “Jack and Coke” types as well suited to Sean’s sense of hospitality as others ordering things more innovative.
Eventually settling on Gin for my drink of choice, the “Harlot’s Halo” featuring a cloud of Lemon Curd and Citrus Syrup atop a stiff and sizable pour of Leopold Brothers’ best, it turns out that Kenyon knows several Vegas acquaintances and although the bar was quick to fill his check-ins were friendly and frequent, orders from the kitchen rolling out slowly as I chatted with a young intern who seemed well on his way to becoming an excellent mixologist.
Already well fed at Bar Dough, but interested in seeing just how good the “Bar Bites” might be, a duo of appetizers arrived perhaps twenty minutes after seating, the freshly baked Pretzel Bites pretty much par for the course despite excellent beer cheese while the Croquettes reminisced of a November trip to Bilbao with great flavor added by smooth aioli.
Surprisingly offering three desserts, a boozy cake roll ordered nearby appearing quite nice, a sudden surge in traffic saw orders notably delayed and considering tickets to the Avalanche game at 8:00pm my order was expedited, the unfortunate effect being far too much oil on each Fritter and the bowl originally being served almost flavorless without Anglaise, the sidecar only brought forth on request and still not enough to cover the greasiness up.
Recently opened on West 32nd Avenue with a Modern Italian focus and highly praised Happy Hour beginning at 3pm, Bar Dough from Max MacKissock seemed like perfect place to kick off Wednesday evening, particularly with Williams & Graham just down the street and an Avalanche game at Pepsi Center beginning at eight o’clock.
No doubt an anticipated opening, the Chef a known entity with several previous local restaurants seeing varying levels of success across the years, entry to Bar Dough presents patrons with pleasant hostess at a podium lined with Chris Bianco’s canned tomatoes, the focus on product immediately evident even before seating or perusing the menu.
Long and narrow up front, seating at the bar divided from banquets by long communal high-tops, a look at Bar Dough’s interior speaks of a minimalist approach and with retro music playing overhead the food and beverage takes a look at Italy by regions, the happy hour a veritable bargain with the full menu offered from 5:00pm till close.
Perhaps a bit too hip in terms of service, the young man assigned my table keen on words such as “awesome” and “bro,” orders were batched as not to overwhelm the table and starting with an open-face Meatball “Sangwich” the value early arrival was immediately evident, just $7 exchanged for two sizable balls of beef, pork belly and pancetta with almost no binder atop crispy, dense focaccia drenched in crushed tomatoes and a bubbling layer of pecorino plus mozzarella.
Deeply discounting a competent Margherita that saw a bit less rise to the crust than I would prefer, despite a good blister and taste, far more intrigue was offered by the subsequent round of polenta and pasta, the former lent great crunch by dehydrated kernels juxtaposing butter and Fontina while each handmade pocket of Butternut Squash was exceedingly delicate with bright acidity added by pickled red kuri squash and a lightly sweetened sauce of vinegar and raisins.
Oversold by the server on “Pumpkin Seed Brittle” Gelato that tasted like little more than vanilla with unsalted pepitas chopped into the mix, those looking for a sweet ending are encouraged to instead trust rumors of the city’s best ladyfingers, each espresso soaked bite enriched by creamy mascarpone in a dish that lives up to hybrid naming by harkening both pudding and Tiramisu.
3 Scoops – Maple Pecan, Honey Almond, Butterscotch
Appearing like little more than a large metal milk-bottle outside of Linger and a store for outdoor goods, Little Man Ice Cream has been thrilling the denizens of Denver since 2008 with a focus on craftsmanship and quality, each scoop even going so far as to offer a global message of humanitarianism and support.
Known for long lines during warmer months, a mild February afternoon finding only a smattering of patrons sitting outside as servers went about their business within, Little Man’s small-batch approach is similar to that of many modern labels with a high milk fat base imparting richness to classic flavors as well as modern spins that alternate daily.
Typically offering anywhere from twelve to fourteen Ice Creams plus a pair of Sorbets and Cookie Sandwiches served pre-made from a freezer case, it was after a handful of samples that $9 was exchanged for three-scoops and a sandwich, the wide-base cup nicely separating flavors while the cookie required a few minutes to become soft enough to chew.
Best known for their signature Salted Oreo, a creamy base with silky mouthfeel lent intrigue by the slightest amount of brine, chocolate cookies surrounding a smooshed scoop really offered little to the equation given the compromised texture and taste that was not dissimilar to something from Costco, the better investment no doubt a more traditional sampling with none of the flavors less than excellent, a particular favorite found in the Bit-O-Honey reminiscent Honey Almond as well as the almost-boozy Butterscotch and tangy Buttermilk Cupcake.
Highly acclaimed amongst local dining circles, no doubt in part to the James Beargoat d Award bestowed upon Chef Jennifer Jasinski in 2013 as Best Chef Southwest, it was on the recommendation of several including those at Work & Class as well as Racca’s Pizzeria that a reservation was made at Rioja, the painful parking situation and passive service admittedly unexpected while the food itself was every bit as good as the rumors suggest.
Located in upscale Larimer Square, several national chains blending with local restaurants and bars, Rioja is best described as Seasonal Mediterranean in approach and with tasteful decorating, a bar made for mingling plus two rooms adjoined by a central walkway the flow of the space feels brisk while gentle lighting leaves wooden surfaces looking sexy and sleek.
Offering much of the dinner menu at lunch, a similar situation witnessed several days later at Euclid Hall, diners are encouraged to listen to several specials before finalizing their order, the daily venison burger admittedly quite tempting though personal interests tilted more to small plates, others around me seemingly holding the “Chronic” Chicken Sandwich in high regard.
No doubt a place where suits are prominent, “regulars” greeted by waiters by name with amuses served selectively by the kitchen in a fairly obvious and discriminatory way, bread service features several housemade options the with a tiny cheese biscuit and roll of ginger and pine nuts both particularly memorable, though obtaining a second helping was rivaled only by water refills in terms of difficulty to obtain.
Deciding to dine in three courses, a half-dozen items served with pacing that was thankfully dictated by return of previous plates to the back, round one consisted of an elegant beet salad tinged in mocha with fruit and cheese balancing earth tones while a non-traditional take on French Onion Soup used ravioli in a clean consomee to replicate the classic in terms of flavor, though certainly not in texture.
As proud of their technique as they are of sourcing – noodles, sauces and sausages all made on site, half-orders of pasta are a welcome conceit to those of smaller appetites and happy to take full advantage in terms of creating a tasting one would be hard pressed to decide between tender gnocchi dressed in grapes, blue cheese and walnuts or the roll of braised Lamb Belly Sausage atop makeshift “Cassoulet” consisting of Pickled Red Onion, Brioche Crumbles, Celery and Carrot.
Known as a place for desserts, longtime pastry chef Eric Dale’s seasonal variations often amongst the most visually appealing in The Mile High City, “special” tables seem likely to end meals with complimentary Goat Cheese and Fig Beignets that were ordered and found to be pleasant though not “amazing” while the server-recommended “Pistachio and Pears” more than made up for any disappointment, the $10 plate a mix n’ match thrill ride with Pistachio Cake and Mousse each replicating the nut’s flavor perfectly alongside Marsala Poached Pears with light licorice notes well matched to Vanilla Anglaise and Fennel Pollen.
8 Donuts – Jelly Filled, Crème Anglaise, Green Tea Anglaise, Mexican Chocolate, Lemon Filled, Maple Bacon, Cinnamon Sugar, Thai Peanut
Bacon Pancakes – Buttermilk with Bacon Crumbles
Lavender Blueberry Pancakes – Topped with House Made Lavender Blueberry Preserves and Fresh Blueberries
Cinnamon Roll Pancakes – Drizzled with Sweet Cream Cheese Glaze
Housemade Buttermilk Biscuit with Housemade Raspberry Jelly
Told by locals and friendly travelers that the decision between Jelly Cafe and Syrup was largely a matter of personal preference and whether family-friendly or hip-and-trendy was most appealing it was actually location that took me to Jelly Cafe on Wednesday morning, the 80s Soundtrack, Man-buns and Sleeves of Ink confirming comments about the scene, though everyone from host to servers was actually far more pleasant and well trained than similar spots in other states.
Featuring a fun menu of Breakfast and Lunch favorites plus a handful of Daily Specials in a Diner-Style room with Old-School Cereal boxes decorating the walls, it was a young woman in glasses and a skulled apron that served as my waitress for the morning, coffee from nearby Pablo’s filled repeatedly with even a cup to go.
Unable to pass on the fresh donuts, each hole either topped or filled with something quite distinct, a ‘large’ order of eight was selected to the tune of $5, the Spicy Peanut and Matcha Anglaise each unique and inspired while the Maple Bacon and Cinnamon Sugar were both unfortunately a bit too heavy with grease.
Offering several breakfasts, both sweet and savory, the majority offered in a la carte portions for those willing to invest a bit more in variety than just one thing, it was with little indecision that three individual pancakes were selected in addition to a housemade biscuit, the later separating in layers of soft buttermilk while each flapjack was light and fluffy, the Bacon-studded version not particularly imaginative while the spiraled Cinnamon Roll and Lavender Blueberry rounds were both quite pleasant, the toppings adding to their respective bases without overwhelming the aromatic subtleties.
S’more Breakfast Sandwich – House Marshmallow Fluff, Milk Chocolate, Cinnamon Butter on Toasted Ciabatta with a Buttermilk Biscuit, Jam and Honey
PB&C Bar
Oatmeal Raisin Cookie
Almond Croissant
Birthday Cake
Located in a residential area where the early morning hours see everything from business meetings and grab n’ go suits to college kids and post-call folks from a nearby medical center stopping in to relax, Olive & Finch started off a great day of dining in Denver and despite dismissive service from a middle-age barista who had not yet fully woken up the food itself was across-the-board excellent, as too was the charming and rustic look.
European in its styling, part bistro and part market with a focus on wholesome foods made fresh from local ingredients, Olive & Finch is open from 7a-9p daily and with a wide ranging menu diners are encouraged to eat as health conscious or sinful as they please, several diners opting for omelets, wraps or sandwiches while the tune of my order intentionally played out entirely sweet.
Not the sort of place to loosely toss around the term “artisan,” everything possible made or baked on site, it was with a sandwich ordered that four additional items were gathered from jars, counters or cool cases, first bites of the almond croissant showing signs of lightly charred corners, the exterior shattering with soft textures and pure ground almonds filling the laminated layers beneath.
Using large wooden blocks as delivery markers, a coffee station offering several sweeteners and ice water for those eschewing caffeine, it was next that tastes were taken of a tender oatmeal raisin cookie with crisp rimming, the flavor again quite natural as was the slab of peanut butter and chocolate, a cheerful 6” Birthday Cake with Sprinkles incorporating everything that would be expected and simply too cute to resist, though sharing with others would probably be good advice.
Waiting perhaps ten minutes for my entree, several to-go orders intervening including a sizable catering platter that required the work of two staff members to load into a truck, those on a diet or simply watching their carbs probably gave up reading long ago, but for those still on board take it on good advice that the S’more Breakfast Sandwich is worth the time, effort and calories as crisp Ciabatta holds up beautifully to a slick of Cinnamon Butter plus Milk Chocolate and Marshmallow Fluff made in house, even the “daily pastry” served by its side a shining example of craftsmanship as the rich flavors of Buttermilk came in soft layers with sidecars of Honey and Fresh Preserves.
Long residing on my United States ‘must visit’ list, in fact the eldest member of a list that has changed frequently over the five years past, it was finally on February 23, 2016 that I sat down to dinner at Frasca Food and Wine, fears of building the restaurant up too much immediately proving folly from the moment I walked through the door until a kitchen tour at the end.
Considered by most to be the best restaurant in Colorado, and easily the most acclaimed including a James Beard Award for Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson and mentions for partner Bobby Stuckey in the realms of management, service and wine, Frasca sits on Boulder’s popular Pearl Street and with a focus on Northern Italy anchored in locally sourced products diners are treated to a minimalist dining room with rich woods and light music, the staff incredibly accommodating while walking a fine line between formal and friend.
Inviting diners to experience the menu in any way they choose, every item offered a la carte while a four-course prix fixe and Degustation seem the more popular choice, it was with little indecision that the tasting was selected and adding three supplements the meal progressed smoothly, every plate satisfying while at the same time leaving me wishing I could have just one more bite.
Admittedly fortunate that the night’s menu seemed almost serendipitous in appealing to my predilections, the opening crisp of Baccala only flawed by the fact that I would have preferred it in a large steaming crock as the citrus played brilliantly off the Roe, it bears mention that although wine is certainly a focus of the restaurant those choosing not to imbibe are offered a few mocktails or the choice to let the bar craft something to their liking, the “Carcade” one of the most elegant beverages seen recently in a restaurant with Lime and rich Herbs encircled by Cinnamon Sugar as handmade Ice of Hibiscus slowly melted imparting a light floral edge.
Serving only one style of bread, the Rustic Wheat great for soaking up sauces though one must be mindful of eating too much given the quality of locally sourced butter, tasting continued with early season While Asparagus atop a slick of Egg Yolk, the flavors of Pumpernickle and Miner’s Lettuce allowing for the natural notes of each to be experienced solo or in concert with each of the flavors ringing loud and clear.
Arriving tableside to prepare course three, before serving the first supplement next, “Riso” featured smooth Arborio rice mixed with sliced Diver Scallops and chopped Arugula as Orange Zest added just it’s essence, a similar short term linger offered by Rye flour used in Gnocchi topped in rich Quail Ragu and Cauliflower florets.
Perhaps the only “signature” never to change on Frasca’s menu “Frico Caldo” was inserted in the menu here, and although typically served as a shared appetizer the crispy disc of diced Potatoes with Onions and stretchy Montasio was equally well utilized before “Blecs,” the uneven drapes of Buckwheat grounded in Black Trumpet Mushrooms and the same Northeastern mountain Cheese.
Locally sourcing Venison for Secondi, the lean meat served with the lightest of sears atop a bed of polenta with crispy Kale, palates were cleansed in a manner that should make all restaurants reconsider their approach via quenelle of Sirk Vinegar Sorbet, the texture unexpectedly like velvet with light tingle on the finish.
Unable to resist adding a dessert to the experience, the pastry team at Frasca not only well-regarded but also given more real estate in the kitchen than most I’ve seen, Torta Di Gelato was served as Liliana Myers’ take on Baked Alaska, and although the small cake was indeed delicious it simply could not compete with the Per Se and Daniel trained Chef’s “Monte Blanco,” a melting chocolate ball that beautifully marries roasted Chestnuts to Crème Fraiche in a warm bath of Cognac infused White Chocolate.
Truly a world class restaurant, even the tiny lemon tartlet offered as a petit four exceedingly well crafted with an egg custard texture beneath a shattering bruleed top, Frasca Food & Wine more than warrants the praise heaped upon it, even that leaving it underrated in many regards.
Owned by Troy Guard in Denver’s RiNo Neighborhood, Sugarmill is described as “A Place Where Sweet and Savory Meet,” and although a part of TAG Restaurant Group the Three Meal space maintains a decidedly independent feel under the current team as the open kitchen provides ample entertainment by allowing guests to watch the team create each plate.
Narrow and long with patterned wallpaper and a slick bar to one side as wood floors plus tables for two-to-six line the right side of the room, arrival at Sugarmill brings diners face to face with a pasty case featuring selections that rotate by both time of day and season, a two o’clock arrival one one hand seeing things in a state of transition while on the other allowing a guest to watch the team hard at work on their craft.
Well priced and surprisingly diverse, the savory menu actually much larger than the one on which the concept is themed, lunch desserts are somewhat more limited than those at dinner but still offering a half dozen the question posed is what to order, the one-man waitstaff seemingly distracted and only willing to say “Everything is Great.”
Unfortunately told the “Noahsphere” of former Chef Noah French is a dinner-only off-menu request it was instead in simple favorites that Sugarmill experience would unfold and served as a duo both the Donut Sundae as well as the pricey Red Velvet Slice were perfectly competent, if not ‘wowing,’ the former definitely hot from the frier beneath a quickly melting ball of Ice Cream while the triple-layer Cake upped the ante by adding buttermilk only to be held back a bit by using Vanilla Buttercream that compromised the smooth texture of traditional Cream Cheese.
Mistakenly given two extra scoops of Ice Cream because I’d inquired about what was served atop the Doughnut, both elegant and creamy with the Butter Pecan a “best of” sort as restrained sweetness was imparted by finely chopped nuts, it was with these stricken from the bill that a few items to-go were selected, the macarons each crisp giving way to creamy filling while the Chocolate Chip Cookie featured several different types in brown butter, golden around the edges with a center just-set.
House Sausage, Pesto, Pistachio and Mozzarella Flatbread
Meatball Sliders
Campania – Bufala Mozzarella, San Marzano Tomato Sauce, Fresh Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Piemonte – Fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino Sardo Truffle Spread, Mushrooms, Prosciutto di Parma, Fresh Basil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Tiramisu, Strawberry Tiramisu, Cannoli
Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta
Formerly titled Marco’s Coal Fired Pizzeria, but choosing to rebrand as Racca’s Pizzeria Napoletana when national chain Marco’s invaded the Denver Metro, it was on the advice of Las Vegas pizza legend John Arena that I sat down to lunch at Mark Dym’s restaurant steps from Coors’ Field, the owner himself joining me at a spacious four-top and happy to tell his tale.
Not a restauranteur nor Colorado native by history, his New York roots running through a period of Real Estate in Florida, Dym’s pursuit of the perfect pizza is actually a relatively recent development but speaking with passion, a word displayed on the menu with prominence, there is little doubt that Mark’s career change had been a long time coming with time honored recipes reminiscing his Italian Heritage while top-tier ingredients enliven each plate.
An intense man with smiling eyes, his stories and opinions well worth hearing for any fortunate enough to see him at one of his slowly expanding number of stores, it was after several attempts to have Mark guide my order that he finally suggested an off-menu special before insisting that I select anything that caught my interest, the subsequent appetizers, pies and desserts all speaking volumes about his generosity as well as a staff-wide commitment to the craft.
Improvising on the traditional wood-fired pizza concept by featuring a second oven that burns with coal in addition to Pecan logs, it was shortly after sharing an elongated pesto-topped crust garnished in crushed pistachios plus housemade sausage that a duo of Meatball ‘sliders’ were presented, the buns themselves outsourced but the meatballs Dym’s own recipe with a supple texture plus rich flavor featuring both beef and pork.
Given a chance to sample Racca’s Tomato Sauce with the sliders, a pure and unmanipulated base with bright acidity and perhaps a pinch of added salt, it was with great anticipation that the “Campania” was presented with Bufala Mozzarella still bubbling, the DOP Margherita absolutely textbook in its execution, the “VPN” standard met or exceeded with Fresh Basil and Extra Virgin Olive Oil perfuming the San Marzano’s atop a charred yet pliable crust.
Helped out by Mr. Dym, though there was still plenty of pizza leftover for later, a second Pie from the all-wood oven was presented with even more blister than the one before, and although rare to take the bait of a “truffle upgrade” the Piemonte Pizza presented the coveted fungus far more elegantly than usual with Fresh Mozzarella and imported Prosciutto atop Pecorino Sardo spread, each bite imbued with rich aromatics but treading carefully so as not to disrupt the overall balance.
Smartly offering desserts as whole portions or as a sampler it was on Mark’s recommendation that nearly every sweet on the menu was brought last, and although Cannoli Shells are brought from outside the fresh filling is all blended in house, a duo of ladyfinger cakes each light yet fulfilling while the panna cotta eats more like pudding than gelatin, all as great as would be expected from a passionate owner running such a great program, a tour to end the meal showing in-house filtration installed specifically to replicate New York’s water while also adjusting flour to account for high altitude cooking.
The Cordon Bleu – Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Tender Belly Ham, Cheddar Cheese, local Colorado Honey Butter
Biscuit French Toast – Maple Syrup and local Colorado Honey Butter
Located inside Atomic Cowboy and one of a few well regarded restaurants within the sizable space, it was for the second half of breakfast that a booth was claimed to experience Denver Biscuit Company, the hipster hangout only a quarter filled on Tuesday morning but that faction most certainly consisting of many man-buns and bearded ‘cool-kids.’
Partially a Sports Bar with ESPN or Altitude playing prominently on flat-screens, while the soundtrack ranged from Them Crooked Vultures to Joe Walsh, it was mere minutes after seating that the menu was presented and ordering up a Cold Brew as I perused the options the service is best described as disinterested-yet-present, a few questions answered with a three part order soon arriving in two separate courses, as requested.
Boisterous without being loud, a small window expediting to-go orders a bit more rapidly than the plates served to those dining in, it was not long after perusing the unique wall art and catching up on scores that the Biscuit Cinnamon Roll arrived at the table, the layers of buttermilk a bit marred by a slathering of Cream Cheese Icing so smooth and tangy that it was more a plus than a minus, particularly as the bun was enormous – more than enough for two or three to share.
Poured another cold cup of coffee, the first refill free with Boxcar’s nutty brew notably better suited to sweets than flavors more saline, it was with good fortune that both ‘entrees’ were every bit as good as their predecessor, the question of whether Maple Syrup was pure answered affirmatively before adding it to griddled biscuits awash with vanilla notes beneath slowly melting butter, The Cordon Bleu deconstructed in order to sample half of a fluffy biscuit on its lonesome while Fried Chicken featured great moisture beneath it’s crispy coating, a drape of Tender Belly Ham and melted Cheddar gilding the proverbial lily as a housemade blend of local honey and butter pooled slowly on the plate.
Located Southeast of Denver in the corner-pocket of a small shopping center, Detour Bakery’s naming may at first seem to acknowledge its out of the way location, but for those fortunate to happen upon the locals-only space owned by Jeff and Florence Payne a better descriptor may, in fact, be ‘destination’ as the small storefront is turning out some of the Mile High City’s best French pastry and viennoiserie.
Referencing France with it’s market layout, both the accent of the baker and her skill set making one curious as to whether her roots lie overseas, those walking through the doors to pleasant greetings plus the smell of freshly baked bread are likely to be overwhelmed by the vastness of options available, one particular morning’s creative energy yielding no less than eight styles of croissants offered alongside options both sweet and savory, the Stalk-like Epi and Baguette seemingly quite popular and described to me by one elderly patron as “better than the ones you get in Paris.”
Fighting through rush hour Tuesday traffic to assure an early arrival, the previous night’s snow already starting to melt, it was just past eight o’clock when I stood peering at a duo of glass cases, the contents all glistening with prices that seemed far too low to be real, a five part order compiled after a few questions taken to a small table with a viewing window allowing visitors to watch a kitchen at work.
Doing my best to take it easy and focus on favorites, a long day ahead with several stops including dinner at Frasca Food & Wine, it was with a small bites that I sampled the soft pan sucre and although chocolate had unfortunately been piped in a bit lopsided leading to areas of dryness the flavor of bread itself was still quite good, no such issues befalling a duo of Croissants as each cracked and flaked to the tooth before yielding their pronounced pureed fillings.
Told by Mrs. Payne that the Bavarian cream had just been made, while the double pocket surrounding both it and sliced peaches was itself still warm, it should be obvious to anyone accustomed that the fresh tart was a work of art well worth getting up early for, the same to be said for a custard-rich Clafoutis with walls of butter pastry chock-full of bursting berries.
Owned and Operated by Chef Kelly Whitaker with beverage input by longtime Frasca Food and Wine associate Alan Henkin, Basta was booked largely on the recommendation of a friend who claimed the pizza to be some of the best he had ever tasted and noticing via Social Media that the team had recently visited some of my own personal favorites in Los Angeles an e-mail was sent to discuss the possibility of a tasting menu, a slow Monday night with snow flurries showing the chefs to be more than willing with results that impressed from beginning to end.
Opened in early 2010, the location in the middle of a residential complex making the unobtrusive storefront a bit tricky to locate for those unfamiliar with the area, it was with winds already gusting and small flakes falling that diners were greeted to doors held open by a staff that proved as educated as they were inviting and offered a choice of tables a two-top near the front was selected, the menu discussed as a beverage was prepared.
Undoubtedly best known for the pizzas, several offered at Denver’s Cart Driver but here offering a full dining experience including small-plates and an $80 pre-order Lasagna designed to feed large groups, the space housing Basta stretches long and angular with moody lighting that draws attention to the kitchen and deferring largely to the Chefs save for a few small requests it was with a refreshing shrub in hand that the meal got started, the opening volley of perfectly seared scallops a testament to quality sourcing as well as creativity with avocado offsetting citrus while each bite gained intrigue through the addition of smoked cheese.
Described as an improvised dish that Whitaker “fell in love with” when riffing on Risotto at a past food event course two featured ancient grains in the form of a ‘Farrotto Piccolo’ cylinder with a toothsome base richly imbued with herbs through slow simmering while a melange of Hen of the Woods Mushrooms joined tender leeks to replicate textures of the famous rice dish, each bite given an added layer of creaminess from Ricotta Salata and a light hint of Chives.
Having mentioned the famous lasagna, it was again through Facebook that I noticed Basta occasionally offered the dish as a daily special offered in smaller parts and inquiring about availability weeks in advance it was with great fortune that the request was not only considered but acted upon, a steamy slice with oozing Bechamel on a serving board offered with stretchy Stracciatella overlying hand crushed Tomatoes and Basil grown in their own garden, the minimalist composition leaving no room for error as the wood oven toasted the top to crisp perfection, each forkful compelling another until not one drop remained.
Feeling the effects of a long day of dining, but at the same time greatly anticipating courses to come, round four delivered crisp duck meat amidst Sweet Potato Gnudi with the leaves of Miner’s Lettuce whose flowers were seen earlier, the follow-up “Daisy” at this point an embarrassment of riches from which only half was eaten, the Margherita toppings absolutely flawless as the charred crust offered a robust crunch before giving way to the pliable, pocketed and yeasty interior.
Deferring dessert to the kitchen, not brave enough to tackle both bread pudding and donuts before a drive back to Denver in a rental amidst rapidly falling snowflakes, two fried dumplings softened by Potato and Goat Cheese were last delivered with a sidecar of Chantilly, each bite walking a fine line between sweet and savory with an added bonus offered by a scoop of smoky Campfire Vanilla Ice Cream.
Chosen for the first of two dinners largely as a result of location as well as the butcher shop serving house-cured meats it was unknown to me when booking Blackbelly Market for a 4pm reservation that the restaurant also offers a rather impressive Happy Hour, something that a half-full house by five indicates is a favorite for locals as well as visitors in the know.
Owned and operated by Chef Hosea Rosenberg, with a focus that trends as local and organic as one is likely to find, Blackbelly was launched originally as a catering company but since evolving to a place for breakfast, lunch and a dinner menu that changes daily those paying a first visit will likely be impressed by the rustic-chic interior, a light soundtrack playing overhead while service walks the professional-yet-friendly fine line.
Declining a stool at the Chef’s Counter in favor of a small two-top in front of hung-to-dry meats it was not long before the first of two waiters stopped by with bread, water and menus, a brief description of nightly specials creating a conundrum of how to order while the housemade bread and butter threatened to ruin an appetite since the quality of the smoke-salted spread was so good.
Half-sold on Happy Hour, the charcuterie special better-off incorporated into a board while crispy corn fitters were dialed up by bits of ground lamb in a bowl of piquant dip it was not long before another bowl of green chile posole was brought forward, each bite equally featuring the aromatic peppers and shredded pork.
Taking it easy on warm tortillas, the evening a marathon, not a sprint, a board of Charcuterie was next delivered just as requested and eschewing housemade mustard that the waiter stated was “hot, just perfect” the trio of meats to follow showed Rosenberg and Staff’s commitment to quality, the offal based sausage *almost* too funky while both pate and headcheese were savored bite by bite with pickles to clear the palate, of which I could have used a few more.
Not going all-in on entrees, though the in-house butchered meats seemed well received around the room, it was instead to the daily Cassoulet that I turned for a final savory, the rich French stew boasting Blackbelly’s Nose-to-Tail convictions by using up the off-cuts with a sous vide egg for mixing while two vegetarian-friendly sides were no less impressive, both just sweet enough to compliment the locally sourced produce without leading to any flavor masking or loss.
Thoroughly impressed by the food, service and concept as a whole there was little chance of passing on the sweet stuff and although staff suggested the chocolate cake or pudding two old favorites instead beckoned, the Sticky Toffee Pudding an admirable version with plenty of Dates dispersed in a buttery base topped with Bourbon ice cream while the ‘Famous’ Carrot Cake lived up to its billing not only in terms of spice profile and creamy frosting, but also through the inspired used of Ginger syrup and a commitment to charity by donating $1 to breast cancer research per slice.
