Metro Pizza
Bread and Butter
Sausage, Provolone Cheese, Giardiniera on a Grandma-style Crust
Delicata Squash, Brussels Sprouts, Cherries, Maple Syrup, Pepitas, Goat Cheese
Drunken Sicilian Grandma Goes to Detroit Pie with Tomato Sauce, Vodka Sauce, Basil Oil
The Mike Drop – Fried Pizza with Ricotta Cheese, Orange Zest, Housemade Raspberry Preserves, Mike’s Hot Honey, Confectioner’s Sugar
Serving as the flagship of John Arena and Sam Facchini’s family of pizzerias since November of 2012, and featuring an expansive footprint including Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast, it was Saturday morning that three guests sat down at Metro Pizza on Sky Pointe for a four course feast from the hands of Pizzaiolo Chris Decker.
Dubbed “America’s Neighborhood Pizzeria” since the early eighties, though past and present Metro Pizza is so much more, it was after choosing from a multitude of tables and booths that a server approached with Beverage options, Chef Arena then graciously opting to sit down and chat about everything from the local dining scene to Las Vegas’ upcoming Pizza Festival and recommendations for Naples.
Not busy just a minute after opening, though filling shortly before noon, it was based on ideas recently featured on Chef Decker’s @everythingbutanchovies Instagram account that lunch began first with Bread, a piping hot Loaf flecked with Seeds entirely irresistible from its supple crumb to Cornmeal-dusted bottom.
Known for using Dough allowed added fermentation time, the result lighter than one might ever expect whether served as a classic New York round or Metro’s world-class “86th Street” Sicilian, it was on a modified “Grandma” base that Chris’ first creation was offered, the combination of house Sausage and pickled Peppers reined in by Provolone atop a semi-rigid base with just enough give that bites broke off easily.
Always improving technique, and recently featuring seasonal Produce from Desert Bloom Eco Farm, round two saw Metro’s Dough worked carefully to maximize its cornicione, the crispiness visually predictable but flexibility equally impressive as a only a slight bend was witnessed in support of Squash, Sprouts, dried Cherries, Maple Syrup, Goat Cheese and Seeds.
Previously stunned by Chef Decker’s take on Detroit’s Red Top, a once-regional Pie reborn by modern Pizzaiolos around the globe, it was under the clever name “Drunken Sicilian Grandma Goes to Detroit” that Mozzarella, Marinara and Basil were supplemented by Vodka Sauce, each of four wedges exquisite in taste and texturally masterful from feather-light center to crunchy,caramelized lattice.
Told that a special Dessert would take some time, but still waiting for suggestions of a better way to spend Saturday morning than getting Pizza-pointers from John Arena while Chris Decker cooks, it was in a brilliant display of showmanship that an unnamed concoction was delivered, it’s fried exterior entirely oilless beneath a shower of Sugar while the inside was loaded with Ricotta and Jam that found added emphasis in Chili-steeped Honey and Citrus.
FIVE STARS: Serving Las Vegas for 37+ years and continuously evolving the concept while slowly growing the brand it would be difficult to say anyone has contributed more to Sin City’s love of Pizza than John Arena, and although any brand featuring more than one space may suffer from inconsistency Metro sets a high standard by rewarding their old customer base with predictable greatness while Chris Decker’s creativity looks towards a new era and without ever neglecting the basics – the same synopsis as always since it warrants repeating.
RECOMMENDED: Anything offered as a special from @everythingbutanchovies Social Media feed is worth asking about. So is the 86th Street Square Pie. And, really, any of the Pizzas.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Love Pizza? Consider the Metro Pizzalover’s Club with free Sign-up at Metro Pizzalover’s Club and also check out the calendar of events and specials here.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://metropizza.com/
