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2023 Romain Reverdy ‘Florilege’ Sancerre
BROCCOLI STEM, wild steelhead roe, bitter orange, brioche
HEARTS OF PALM in three sections
SHRIMP, plum, meyer lemon, vanilla bean
LOBSTER, carrot, coconut, curry
TOMATO, pumpemickel, provolone, thyme
PORK BELLY, peanut, pickled vegetables, basil seeds
HOT POTATO, cold potato, parmesan, butter
FROG LEGS, wild mushrooms, lettuces, evergreen aroma
LAMB NECK, prunes, coffee, pillow of star anise aroma
EXPLOSION, black truffle, parmesan, romaine
MATSUTAKE, mastic, pine nuts, sherry vinegar
SPIRAL, chocolate ganache, avocado, licorice
RASPBERRY birthday bite
Currently taking a well-deserved victory lap from coast-to-coast Alinea’s 20th Anniversary is also being celebrated back home, the ever-changing space called Next transporting diners back to Lincoln Park cicra 2005 when Grant Achatz first debuted “a new train of thought.”
Last visited in 2012 for Achatz and Beran’s tribute to El Bulli, a twenty-nine course journey exploring the early days of Molecular Gastronomy, almost exactly thirteen years later finds little changed in terms of setting or service from a well-trained team.
A shorter menu than three meals at Alinea from 2009 to 2011, all three extremely influential for a young Midwesterner who started dining seriously around that time, it was with a story in hand that dinner began with Broccoli Stems in Michigan Trout Roe that proved a beautiful pairing to ice cold Sancerre.
Now a decade-long holder of one Michelin Star, Alinea retaining three despite many “gourmands” claiming it has lost its luster, course two featured three bites of Hearts of Palm all filled differently as a segue to one of Crucial Detail’s early service pieces supporting fried Shrimp, Plum and Citrus on a Vanilla Bean.
Next placing poached Lobster in Curry with crispy Noodles, all while “flags” were centered before a single-bite “Salad” enjoyed hands-free, it was after some assemblage that Pork Belly Spring Rolls proved a highlight course thanks to customizable additions and level of heat.
Obviously a celebration, Achatz’s indelible “Hot Potato, Cold Potato” and “Black Truffle Explosion” each still offered at Alinea, both dishes remain as remarkable as they were two decades ago for returning guests and first-timers alike.
Engaging the nose with Lamb Neck on a pillow of Star Anise, but going a step further with Frog Legs telling the story of Michigan’s forests, Dessert before Balloons and tableside art was simple but just as delicious as relates to the flexible Chocolate and Mushrooms made into a sweet yet earthy Parfait.
www.nextrestaurant.com