Le Coucou
Croque Madame – Ham, Gruyere, Egg, Bechamel
Galette de Sarrasin – Buckwheat Crepe, Lobster, Egg, Basil
Crepenette de Volaille aux Foie Gras et Fruits – Chicken and Foie Gras, Roasted Pineapple
Comme un Clafoutis – French Pancake, Roasted Apples, Lime Zest, Crème Fraiche
Baba au Rhum – Rum, Cream
Recently taking home the James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant, a Stephen Starr project featuring Daniel Rose of Paris’ Spring, it was with high expectation that a party of three sat down at Le Coucou for Brunch, the service top notch from podium to presentation of the check while the food was just fair-to-middling, particularly considering the recent increase in quality of French Brasserie fare across the United States.
Located in the 11 Howard Hotel, a nice looking property that necessitates three-meal service each day, the space containing Le Coucou is an elegant one with wood floors, stone walls and white pillars, a turn around the far corner bringing diners face-to-face with a kitchen that runs long and narrow, classic copper cookware hanging above with the pass up front, a young female Chef on the line heard complaining about her workload at least twice during the meal as it appeared Chef Rose was not there.
Offering a concise menu throughout the day and evening, small changes differentiating Brunch from Lunch with Dinner expanding the number of choices slightly, it was with glasses of water filled and the announcement of “there are no specials today” that the decision was made to order Pastries followed by entrees, the sold-out Gougeres rendering that choice invalid and thus limiting the order to three savories and two Desserts.
Sitting and watching both the Kitchen and Sommelier at work, the restaurant completely full with plates coming over the pass almost nonstop, it was after perhaps twenty minutes that three dishes landed on the table along with share plates, a first taste of the Croque Madame showing the Brioche to be crisp although a bit thick while the Ham, Gruyere and Bechamel were good if not memorable, the lasting image one of a Sunny-side Egg that was overcooked.
Using good ingredients and priced accordingly, both the Crepenette de Volaille aux Foie Gras et Fruits and Galette de Sarrasin topping $25, it would be difficult to suggest that the serving of Lobster on the Crepe was anything more than skimpy while the Liver-centered ball of Meat was expectedly rich, though the roasted Fruit did do an admirable job of bringing some needed levity into the fold.
Receiving the piping-hot Pancake approximately ten minutes later, a result of the plate’s preparation time rather than anything intentional, those looking for Le Coucou’s Brunch standout are encouraged to order one to share amidst 2-4 individuals, the center thick ‘like a Clafoutis’ while the edges cook crisp, the Dessert menu completely different from that online yielding a reference-standard Baba Au Rhum completely soaked with Booze atop Citrus segments and filled with sweet Cream.
www.lecoucou.com
