Manfreds
Housemade Organic Apple Juice
Mirabelle Sourdough
Poached Egg Yolk, Nettle, Cream, Sourdough
Beef Tartare, Spinach, Egg Yolk, Bread Crumbs
Chocolate Mousse, Olive Oil, Sea Salt, Cookies
Cleverly describing itself as “(probably) the world’s only veggie-focused restaurant famous for its raw meat” Manfreds proved to be an irresistible stop after lunch at Relæ, the 12-course “Experience” menu that is far lighter than it sounds leaving plenty of room to sit down at the bar for three plates including the signature Beef Tartare.
A winner the Sustainable Restaurant Award in 2016, the same year its upscale sibling across the street earned the same and operating nearly 100% Organic from noon until 22h00 daily, Manfreds was opened nearly simultaneously with Relæ in 2010 as a casual concept focused on Food and Natural Wines, the menu offering anywhere from ten to twelve plates with all but the Beef and Sourdough prone to seasonal change.
A partnership between Kim Rossen and Christian F. Puglisi, the latter slowly growing in influence to a near-noma level ever since branching off on his own, it was with the usually-busy space currently between lunch and dinner rushes that a seat was taken at the unoccupied bar where a lone server was busy washing glasses and replenishing bottles, questions about daily specials quickly answered and housemade Apple Juice served instead of Wine, the roasted Fruit still cloudy and entirely unsweetened which made for a pleasant sourness to pair with all three dishes.
Offering copies of Puglisi’s “Book of Ideas” as well as “Where to Eat Pizza” to browse as guests wait, information about Relæ’s “Farm of Ideas” from which much of the previous meal’s Produce was obtained also provided by a pamphlet, it was not long after ordering that a dish described as “Poached Egg Yolk, Nettle, Cream, Sourdough” was presented, the small pot aggressively priced at 75DKK for what was no more than three bites of herbal Pudding with a bit of texture added by Bread Crumbs while the “Medium” Beef Tartare with similar condiments was deep, musty and complex in nearly quadruple the portion for just 30 Krone more.
Admittedly impressed by the Tartare, plenty of moisture present but not ‘wet’ like so many American versions thanks to the quality of the Beef, a thick grind and just enough Spinach to keep things from becoming too rich, it was without hesitation that a small pot of Chocolate Mousse was requested upon finishing one last slice of Mirabelle Sourdough, the short glass proving to be another worthy signature as the Dark Cocoa is well met by crumbled Milk Chocolate Cookies, a drizzle of Olive Oil and Sea Salt.
http://manfreds.dk