Al Forno
Sourdough, Focaccia, Ciabatta, Olive Oil
Arancini – Mozzarella, Pecorino, Bolognese
Grilled Pepperoni Pizza – Pepperoni, Pomodoro, Fresh Herbs, Mozzarella, Pecorino, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Handmade Beef Short Rib Ravioli – Sauteed Mushrooms, Zucchini, Parmigiano-Reggiano
Butternut Squash Cavatelli – Pancetta, Arugula, Cream
Shakerato – Espresso, Ice
Chocolate Bread Pudding – Fresh Whipped Cream
Polenta Cake – Poached Black Cherries, Amaretto Cream
Having already visited Providence once in 2016, Bob & Timmy’s Grilled Pizza then closed for the 4th of July weekend and subsequently permanently shuttered to make way for Timmy’s Legendary Grilled Pizza which was inexplicably closed on a Friday in January of 2018, it was straight to the source that two diners ended up going, Al Forno purporting to have invented the dish and still retaining it on the menu despite being seen by many as one of Rhode Island’s more formal restaurants.
Originally opened in 1980 along the riverfront by George Germon, a local-seasonal approach from the very start distinguishing his and Johanne Killeen’s style of regional Italian cooking from the competition, Al Forno can still be found inside industrial-chic confines at 577 South Water Street, the outdoor patio welcoming guests before they enter a foyer looking in on the kitchen with two floors of seating extending north from Fox Point.
Still a popular location despite its age and modern competition, the walk-in only nature of the space apparently still generating waits during prime times and good weather, it was just past 5:30pm that two guests were led to a tiny two-top on the lower floor where a large man presented menus and Water before detailing several daily specials.
Proudly described as a scratch-kitchen, everything including Breads and Desserts made-to-order and thus necessitating an all-at-once order, it was with dried ears of Corn hanging overhead that the decision was made to dine in three courses, a basket of Bread quick to arrive and highlighted by Focaccia plus warm Sourdough plus a pour of Olive Oil.
A bit pricier than one might expect for the area and portion sizes, the use of linens and a history apparently justifying prices that rival Manhattan or Las Vegas from Appetizers through Entrees, it was with seven marble-sized Arancini in a pool of Bolognese for $11.95 that Dinner got underway, the fragrant Rice Balls fine but compromised by too much surface area while the $23.95 Pizza was an unmitigated disappointment consisting of a floppy Crust and not much Cheese plus an acidic Sauce that did not do any favors to the thin-yet-delicious Pepperoni.
Switching out silverware and share plates for round two, a pair of $21 Pastas modestly portioned and highlighted by lightly sauced pockets of braised Short Rib while mushy Cavatelli struggled for texture amidst raw Arugula and sweet Cream given a bit of life by Rice-grain sized pieces of Pancetta, it was with half of each boxed that an Iced Espresso was requested along *with* Dessert, Al Forno’s “Shakerato” instead suggested and pleasantly frothy, though apparently shaking Espresso with Ice necessitated extra time as it arrived at the end of the meal.
Tacking on $14 per Dessert, their $20 “Cookie Finale” said to not be worth it by those who’d been prior, suffice it to say that both plates were fine despite unjustified pricing, the Bread Pudding perhaps eight bites but not as hot as one might expect for something served in a Ramekin while the recently debuted Polenta Cake faired far better thanks to its dense crumb, light hints of Citrus and Poached Cherries that played well off Almond-scented Cream.
https://alforno.com/
