Osteria Costa
Iced Tea
Warm Bread – Olive Oil
Margherita Pizza – Mozzarella di Bufala, Pomodoro, Basil
Rigatoni alla Norma – Pomodoro, Eggplant, Basil (1/3 portion)
Bucatini Cacio e Pepe – Black Pepper, Pecorino Romano, Pink Peppercorn (1/3 portion)
Fusilli – Pomodoro, Basil, Garlic (1/3 portion)
Fettuccine – Neapolitan Beef Ragu, Pomodoro, Pecorino (1/3 portion)
Lasagna – Sausage, Mozzarella, Pomodoro (1/3 portion)
Spaghetti – Shrimp, Garlic, Olive Oil, Chiles, Mint (1/3 portion)
Agnolotti – Folded Ricotta Ravioli, Parmigiano, Tomato (1/3 portion)
Linguini & Clams – Garlic, Chiles, Lemon (1/3 portion)
Cannelloni al Forno – Ricotta, Pomodoro, Parmigiano (1/3 portion)
Double Espresso – Ice
Neapolitan Cookie Gelato – Rainbow Cookies
Baba Al Rhum – Whipped Cream, Housemade Limoncello
Although Osteria Costa is not “officially” open until the end of this week, the geniuses in MGM Public Relations apparently needing three weeks to invite all the ‘media’ and ‘influencers’ who will only visit once, tweet some photos and never return, it was prior to QotSA at The Cosmopolitan that a second meal was enjoyed at The Mirage’s newest Restaurant, a tasting of all nine Pastas plus a Pizza once again proving this a space to be reckoned with in Las Vegas’ often underwhelming mid-priced dining category.
In reality serving guests since February 1st, Chef Michael LaPlaca and General Manager Chris Zadie carrying over a large number of their staff from Portofino to a more casual space jutting out into the gaming area, it was on the Osteria Costa’s third day that a visit with friends found the space already humming along in high gear, the two weeks in between producing largely positive accounts on Social Media and the Restaurant doing good business with both reservations and the walk-in crowd.
Focused on the Cuisine of Naples and the Amalfi Coast with a menu divided into six sections, a collection of housemade Pastas the largest and most relevant for those familiar with Michael’s work at Portofino, it was shortly after the Restaurant’s 5:00pm opening that a seat was offered at either the Pizza bar or one stocked with Booze, the former an easy choice for those who would rather watch the Chefs work than whatever sport is being shown on TV.
Already familiar with much of the staff, though a pair of open kitchens allows diners far more access than did the former location, it was shortly after taking a seat that Iced Tea was delivered along with Warm Bread and Olive Oil, the decision to tread lightly with the latter well advised as it was no more than ten minutes before a Margherita Pie with imported Mozzarella di Bufala was being painted with Olive Oil from a Rosemary Branch and presented with light hints of char plus a puffy cornicione.
Dinning before a show but leaving plenty of time, the tasting pre-arranged to maximize variety in the setting of Osteria Costa’s surprisingly large portions, it was with slices of Pizza once again proving to be the Strip’s best that three plates of Pasta were delivered, the emerging signature Rigatoni alla Norma once again a highlight with tender Eggplant and boldly aromatic Red Sauce while the Fusilli was fairly similar though lacking in textural variance, a situation certainly not applicable to al dente Bucatini Cacio e Pepe that serves the Noodles just as they should be with good Cheese and an extra bit of intrigue contributed by Pink Peppercorns added at the end.
Producing every Pasta on-site, some machine-cut and others hand-formed, it was as first bites were being enjoyed that an additional trio joined the tasting, silky ribbons of Fettucine from visit number one again forming the backdrop for meaty Ragu that doesn’t hide behind Tomatoes while the Lasagna with housemade Sausage is reminiscent of the version at Portofino and therefore quite good, as too is LaPlaca’s take on Spaghetti Alio & Olio that features plump Shrimp and particularly hot Serrano Chiles barely tamed by Garlic and a touch of Mint.
Served in 1/4 to 1/3 portions, prices ranging $18-$22 for full-size plates that will easily make a meal for most, it was as part of the last round that Linguini & Clams was placed between Cannelloni and Agnolotti, the hollow tubes packed with herbed-Ricotta tender but fairly pedestrian while Michael’s best Pasta from Portofino still shines in a more simple presentation than the legendary one made with Corn and Lobster.
Unable to pass on Dessert, the only one missed at last visit requested alongside another look at Osteria Costa’s Neapolitan Cookie Gelato, it bears repeating that at $5-$7 each there may be no better Restaurant deal in Las Vegas right now than this collection of Sweets, the frozen treat studded with and topped in Rainbow Cookies featuring three sizable scoops while the Brioche covered in freshly whipped Cream and housemade Limoncello tops Alain Ducasse’s version at Rivea for half the price.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Unable to judge Osteria Costa as one would Portofino despite the same Chef and General Manager, the concepts and price-point simply different, two early looks at Michael LaPlaca’s new Restaurant hopefully provide a glimpse of what is possible but seems long forgotten in the era of Celebrity Chef nonsense, and that is a space serving great Food that is at the same time accessible and affordable without compromising on style or service.
RECOMMENDED: Any of the Pizzas, Rigatoni alla Norma, Fettuccine, Lasagna, Agnolotti, Bucatini Cacio e Pepe, Neapolitan Cookie Gelato, Baba Al Rhum.
AVOID: Although not ‘bad,’ the Fusilli is only necessary for those who dislike Eggplant as the Rigatoni is simply better while those eyeing the Cannelloni would be better off with Agnolotti.
TIP: Mon – Sun 5:00 PM – 10:30 PM. “Grand Opening” on 2/22/18.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.mirage.com/en/restaurants/osteria-costa.html
