ÁmaZ
Copoazu, Naranja
Coffee, Ungurahui, Haba Tonka
Yucca Bread, Tostones and Casabe – Wild Yucca Juice, Cocona Salsa
Churos Pishpirones – Wild Giant Amazonian Snails, Turmeric, Chorizo, Spicy Chili Peppers
Wild Boar Empanadas – Yucca Empanadas, Wild Boar Stew, Wild Yucca Juice
Ceviche ÁmaZ Style – Snakefish, Cooked Plantains, Charapita Chili Pepper, Onions, Leche de Tigre
Peking Duck Juane – Roasted Duck, Rice, Soy-Plum Sauce wrapped in Bijao Leaf
Lomo Saltado – Stir-fried Beef, Smoked Pork, Onions, Tomatoes, Sweet Chili Peppers, Refried Plantains
Lime Crème Brulee – Amazonian Lime Pie, Lime Cream, Lime Segments
Macambo Profiteroles – Pate a Choux, Macambo Brittle Ice Cream, Acai-Cacao Cahuana
Although Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino honed his skills outside of Peru, a formal education from CIA Hyde Park furthered in Italy at the likes of Dal Pescatore, there are few men who have done as much to advance the public’s knowledge of a region’s cuisine than he has the Amazon, first at Malabar and since 2013 at ÁmaZ.
Described by many as an ‘otherworldly’ sort of experience, a convivial atmosphere created by over one hundred seats surrounded by bright colors and jungle touches, ÁmaZ resides in Miraflores at Av La Paz 1079 toward the far end of a row of restaurants, guests entering its doors during daylight likely to find the vibe fairly laid back with bilingual menus and servers who seem as dedicated as Schiaffino himself to tell a tale.
To this day still the only restaurant of its kind, the Chef’s fascination with traditional ingredients and techniques rarely seeing him in the kitchen as opposed to foraging the jungle or working with his organization Despensa Amazónica in support of Peru’s indigenous people, it was shortly after ÁmaZ’s 12:30pm opening that a table was offered either in the bright lobby or secluded upstairs, bottled water poured quickly and non-alcoholic Cocktails soon to follow, both blending Amazonian Fruit with Ice and quenching thirst created by Lima’s humid air.
As much a passion project as a place to eat, both the menu and staff going to great lengths to speak of Schiaffino’s how’s and why’s, it was with jars of Peppers in Oil plus several dips that tables were soon laden, Breads made of mashed Yucca and Crackers of its “Tapioca” joined by flattened and fried Plantains plus tangy Salsa made from the tropical shrub Cocona that tastes something like Barbecue Sauce.
Esoteric but accessible, a few more ‘familiar’ dishes offered for every one like ÁmaZ ‘s signature “Churos Pishpirones,” anyone with an adventurous spirit would be well-advised to order one-each of the fist-sizes Snails simmered in Chorizo with Turmeric and Amazonian Chiles, the result heated but not “spicy” while Wild Boar folded inside fried Yucca comes across fairly similar to roast Pork, particularly when dipped in the accompanying Juice that yields a taste reminiscent of Cochinita Pibil.
Using the Amazon to update several Peruvian staples, ÁmaZ’s Ceviche pairing meaty Snakefish with cooked Plantains in Acid made lively by indigenous Onions and Peppers, those seeking something more hearty are encouraged to investigate either one of Schiaffino’s traditional Stews or the popular Lomo Saltado, the first unwrapped and brilliant with crispy Duck atop lightly sweetened Rice while the latter again modifies a classic by replacing Fried Potatoes with Plantains and balances the additional sugar with smoked Pork.
No less innovative with Dessert, a fusion approach presenting familiar dishes crafted from Amazonian ingredients, it was with a tableside presentation of large Limes and a football-sized Macambo that Pie and Profiteroles were served, the torched top of the former balancing assertive Citrus while next to it crisp Choux hugged three balls of cocoa-scented Ice Cream soon to be drizzled with thick Sauce featuring Dark Chocolate from Cahuana plus Acai, the more celebrated of the dish’s ‘superfoods.’
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