112 Eatery
Spiced Nuts, Olives
Semolina Bread, Baguette, Butter
Caulilini, Miso Polenta
Pan Fried Gnocchi, Parmesan Reggiano
Tagliatelle, Foie Gras Meatballs
Tres Leches Cake, Sweet Cream
Banana Tart, Malted Chocolate Mousse, Blackberries, Fleur de Sel
Chocolate, Almond, Cayenne
Although many outside of The Twin Cities have probably not heard of Isaac Becker it seems safe to say that his “brand” is unaffected, the Chef who won 2011’s James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef Midwest now operating three Restaurants including his first at 112 North 3rd Street where guests will still find a line every night unless they have the foresight to make reservations.
Appropriately named 112 Eatery, simple signage and a shotgun straight interior from door to kitchen doing little to advertise a space that feels much older than its 2005 birthday would suggest, it was shortly after the Restaurant’s 5:00pm opening that greetings and a table were offered, the windowside two-top already set with serviceware plus small bowls of Spiced Nuts and Olives.
Best described as “cozy” or perhaps even “intimate,” exposed brick and candles paired to dark wooden tables beneath dimmed lamps, guests sitting down to dinner will soon find themselves browsing a Menu that defies region or style, the idea of a “Gastropub” at times coming to mind thanks to Burgers and Wings but then taking a decidedly European turn with Foie Gras in the style of Paul Bocuse or pan roasted Sweetbreads.
Served by a team that is professional yet cheerful without even the slightest hint of pretense, a collection of plates prone to frequent change described in great detail for any question asked, it was after deciding upon five that a one by one procession ensued, warm housemade Breads with Butter arriving soon and prone to spoil the appetite of those who are not careful thanks to their quality.
Well paced despite limited seating, an opening plate of Caulilini seeing the hybrid Crucifer lightly charred atop creamy Polenta flavored by Miso and Sesame, it was approximately ten minutes later that the first of two Pastas would arrive, a menu staple of Gnocchi earning its praise through freshly shaved Parmesan Cheese and feather light simplicity plus plenty of Butter.
Happy to see half-orders of some items offered without upcharge, a blessing to solo diners as well as those who simply wish to enjoy more variety, it was shortly after mopping up all remaining Sauce that hand-cut Tagliatelle from Executive Chef Jonathan Seltvedt arrived, another veil of Cheese slowly melting over slick ribbons in light Gravy plus pale grey orbs rich with the unmistakable flavor of Duck Liver.
Without doubt a place to save room for something sweet, Pastry Chef Shawn McKenzie keeping pace with Becker and Seltvedt’s international approach, it was glancing over another tribute to Nancy Silverton’s infamous Budino that 112’s Tres Leches was requested alongside a more recently added item, the layer of fresh Bananas beneath Mousse and macerated Blackberries undeniably enjoyable but still not in the same league as the super-saturated Sponge topped liberally with lightly sweetened Cream.
www.112eatery.com
