Mourad
Potato Buttermilk Soup, Shallot Jam, Spring Onion, Charred Zucchini, Urfa
Red Charmoula, Green Charmoula, Harissa
Basteeya, Duck Confit, Blood Orange, Verjus, Almond, Edible Flowers
Chicken, Preserved Lemon, Gaeta Olive, Marash
Couscous, Brown Butter
Double Espresso, Ice
Honey & Almond, Beeswax, Orange Blossom
Preserved Lemon, Coconut, Toasted Meringue, Citrus, Thyme
Having emigrated from Marrakesh with no formal culinary training the story of Mourad Lahlou’s ascent to a Michelin starred eatery is a tale off perseverance, failure in San Rafael yielding Aziza in 2001 and outside investors helping the Chef open his eponymous Financial District Restaurant in early 2015.
Located steps from the Museum of Modern Art and itself aesthetically marvelous, the hemisected root system on entry flanked by flowers, wood and stone, it is with greetings from modestly dressed women that diners are led to tables around a corner, the bar area naturally secluded by Mourad’s L-shape with kitchen located behind suspended lengths of chain in back.
Familiar with Chef Lahlou’s cooking from 2013, the modern location and progression of time escalating both price and presentation, it was seated at room’s center that a middle-age man arrived with menus and pleasantries, his demeanor a bit stiff but perhaps what is to be expected from a space often paid by the expense accounts of diners clad in suits.
Slightly truncated from dinner offerings, though still featuring all the Signatures and certainly not just Soup, Salads and Sandwiches, it is from twenty items ranging Snacks through Entrees that diners are invited to choose, a $40 half Chicken oddly arriving first alongside fragrant Couscous that helped to mellow Marash Pepper tucked beneath crispy Skin enhanced by the Juices of caramelized Onions and warm Olives.
Soulful yet assertive, Lahlou’s Moroccan heritage finding an amiable partner in California Produce and modern technique, it was lightly applying a trio of Sauces that Chicken quickly vanished only to be replaced by Soup and Basteeya, the latter fondly reminiscent of that at Aziza but here featuring better design and Blood Oranges instead of Raisins while pureed Potatoes and plenty of Buttermilk were enlivened by flavors sweet, smoky and earthy.
Transitioning from savory to sweet with Coffee, $8 plus tax and tip for a Double Espresso egregious even for San Francisco, it is from the mind of Pastry Chef Katherine Campecino that Desserts are created light and seasonal, a combination of Honey, Almond and Orange Blossom eating like Granita with shards of Sugar while toasted Meringue atop Blood Orange and Grapefruit was a bit too sour even with the addition of Coconut and Herbs.
www.mouradsf.com
