Pluot, Brown Butter, and Walnut Crumb Tart with Crème Fraiche
Driving back from The French Laundry in heavy Friday traffic approaching the Bay Bridge I opted to wait out rush hour wandering Oakland and after checking out some local shops I made my way to Charlie Hallowell’s always busy Pizzaiolo on Telegraph. A Chez Panisse alum following Alice Water’s ethos of sourcing as locally and seasonally as possible it was really no surprise when I arrived to find a thirty minute wait for a single seat at the bar (an hour and fifteen for those desiring a table) and chatting with those waiting in line I was immediately struck by how passionately the clientele felt that this was the best pizza in the Bay Area, an assertion I’d find to be true approximately an hour later even though the bubbling, wet, and slightly charred Margherita wasn’t even the best thing I ate at the restaurant, that title instead belonging to an unassuming bowl of creamy polenta given an extra degree of dimension with a hefty dollop of rich, aged gorgonzola that was great on its own and moreso when scooped up with warm bread from the oven. Undoubtedly a place that the locals eat but also a ‘destination’ pizzeria where the $25 price of entry for Una’s Margherita can get you a $14 Marhgerita, $7 bowl of polenta, outstanding complimentary bread an BART fare with a few pennies left over Pizzaiolo is about as good as it gets for those willing to head out to Oakland and taking that travel into account I’d also suggest sticking around for dessert – a seasonal fruit tart kissed by the wood oven and topped with tangy crème Fraiche is never a bad choice.
Mignardises – Cocoa covered Macadamia Nuts, Chocolates and Caramels, Coffee and Donuts
Chocolates – White Chocolate with Cherry and Lime, Peanut butter Strawberry Gelee, Mint, Dark Chocolate with Brown Sugar, Hazelnut Praline, Dark Stout Beer, Salted Caramel
Shortbreads
With two superlative extended tasting menus at Per Se and one at The French Laundry plus memorable meals at each Bouchon plus Ad Hoc I think it is safe to say I admire Thomas Keller, his culinary approach, and the people he involves in his restaurant group, these facts all combining to lead myself and a friend back to The French Laundry for an extended tasting menu on the afternoon of June 21st for an experience that I could have never predicted. Beginning first with a brusque greeting by the hostess because my friend carried his jacket into the foyer as opposed to wearing it and proceeding to our server, Guillaum, failing to serve champagne or describe courses properly while also incorrectly explaining the nature of the menu I’d requested the entire service structure of the restaurant seemed to be turned on its head until I requested to speak to a manager, the end result an intervention by GM Michael Minnillo who truly went above and beyond in terms of service recovery to prevent the meal from being a total disaster. Moving past service issues and onto the food, as expected the majority of the plates served were a lesson in precision aside from a piece of overcooked halibut and brioche served nearly five minutes late with the rabbit and although much of the food was ‘safer’ than I’d experienced under Corey Lee a few standouts warrant mention, particularly the creamy crab sausage crowned with lobster and the gifted $100 supplemental Wagyu – by far the best piece of beef to ever meet my fork. Understanding that even the best of the best are entitled an ‘off’ night and admitting that Mr. Minnillo truly did go out of his way to not only amend but understand the situation it is never ideal when a $600 meal falls so short of expectations and while I’ll undoubtedly continue to support Chef Keller and his restaurants, particularly with my pending move to Las Vegas there will always be a bit of doubt in the back of my mind when I consider returning to 6640 Washington St.
Between New York, Las Vegas, Beverly Hills, Yountville, and the second New York location I’ve probably been to Bouchon Bakery twenty times and having sampled through the majority of the menu while also tackling some of the recipes from the book I was glad to find a few novel options on my most recent visit, a stop predicated on taking some gifts back to my house-host who was kind enough to share with me. Beginning first with a pair of the bigger-than-necessary but decidedly excellent macarons both selections were crisp on the exterior, soft within, and dense with filling – the coconut smooth and mild while the rhubarb was a dead ringer for the classic pie filling. Unfortunately suffering from nearly a full day of transportation from Yountville at 10am through Oakland and arriving back in Mission Bay around 9pm the croissant had become a bit flaccid, though the flavor was still excellent with natural almond tones shining and minimal frangipane to be found while the éclair’s crisp choux held up admirably to light pastry cream as plump raspberries from The French Laundry culinary garden burst with flavor.
A small Chocolate shop from The French Laundry alum Wendy Sherwood a quick stop at La Foret followed by Bouchon Bakery was planned as a thank you to the person with whom I was staying in San Francisco and although Chef Sherwood does not sell her intricate truffles at the retail shop, instead opting for an online allocation system (currently waitlisted) due to demand, the items that were available proved quite extensive. A workshop as much as it is a store with Wendy working in the back and a single clerk handling customers and packing orders to ship I spent approximately fifteen minutes talking to the pair and offered a taste of a freshly minted pecan truffle with salt and caramel I made my decision quickly opting for a handful of caramels and ‘tootsie rolls,’ a bag of chocolate covered honeycomb, and a tablet of salty caramel in a dark chocolate shell. Surviving the day in Napa and graciously shared with me I will simply note that although each item was good it was the chocolate covered honeycomb that truly shined, the interior shattering to the tooth with crystals of sugar melting on the tongue – definitely a spot worth visiting for anyone making the trip to Napa, and I imagine a great pairing with any wine tour.
French Toast with Peaches, Vella Butter, Real Maple Syrup
Ham Biscuit – Fremont Ham, Ginger Rhubarb Sage Jam on Buttermilk Biscuit
Caramel Cake
Salty Caramel Shake
Bellwether Ricotta Pancake with Vella Butter
With 1:00pm reservations for an extended tasting at The French Laundry my friend took the route of skipping breakfast but long intrigued by the concept of The Fremont Diner I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to stop in for an 8:00am breakfast, the farm-to-table/local-sustainable concept brought to ‘diner’ breakfast foods appealing to nearly everything I love. A rustic and peaceful place drawing a largely local crowd as a result of its location I arrived at The Fremont Diner just after they opened the doors and greeted by the hostess, Sage, who would also serve as my waitress throughout the meal I opted for a seat at the bar in order to watch the kitchen – a surprisingly large one where a team of a half-dozen prepared plate after plate for a growing crowd; each item made from scratch with great care including V60 pour-over coffee, hand mixed shakes, and French toast made from house-baked bread plus biscuits fresh from the oven. Over ordering as is my custom but covering a large swath of the menu in the process my only regret was that I knew I would not have room for the chicken and waffles – undoubtedly a reason to return at a later date given the fact that everything else, particularly the biscuit, caramel cake, and shake were all superb while the delicate, creamy pancake and supple French Toast were both a bit more pedestrian but far better than anything at a traditional ‘diner.’
Glazed with a hole, Butter Pecan, Chocolate, Glazed, Salted Maple
A small space on Broadway in Oakland serving small doughnuts and doughnut holes at a dollar or less I stopped by Donut Savant en route to Napa early Friday morning to find the shop just opening and thus without any fritters or a few other options that would have required “at least twenty minutes” wait per the clerk. Disappointed but with substantial eating plans for the day I instead opted to sample what was available and with each item differing only in the glaze I must say the brioche textured interior was quite good with the exterior slightly crisp and the interior soft and slightly yeasty. Ranging from standard sugar glaze and dense chocolate to more interesting salted maple and smoky-sweet butter pecan I could definitely justify a return to sample more if I were in the area but I also wouldn’t go out of my way to visit, particularly early morning.
Like most of the shops that cropped up during the cupcake boom there is a cute story behind the origins of Sift and having neglected to visit the Napa location during my previous trip to The Bay I was happy to hear a new location had opened up in Pacific Heights, particularly one with late hours allowing for a visit after walking the Marina District and Presidio after dinner. A small space with ample use of pink, polka dots, and floral patterns plus staff as sweet as the confections I opted for three small cupcakes tallying $10 after tax and with each option moist and well balanced in cake to frosting ratio I cannot say that anything specifically stuck out about these confections versus other designer cupcakes but with that said, any restaurant who answers the question “How many calories are in a cupcake?” with “Everything in moderation…except for dessert, have seconds!” receives my stamp of approval.
With its acronymic name and a Northern California approach to traditional Roman cuisine it would seem that SPQR could get lost amongst the myriad mid-priced Italian restaurants in the Bay Area but with Chef Matt Accarrino at the helm and a newly minted Michelin Star in 2013 I’d heard tell that the restaurant was one not to be missed – a proclamation I not only found to be entirely accurate during my visit to the chef’s counter, but one that came at relative bargain$52 for the nightly tasting menu to which I added a pair of antipasti and a second dessert. A rather small restaurant in the Pacific Heights area with a menu that is far more expansive than one would assume by the size of the space or the kitchen a meal at SPQR is highlighted by the house made pastas and sampling five during the course of the evening I found each to be every bit on par with those at Flour + Water with the Cappelletti and Chittara both memorable for their balance while using smoke and brine or game and acid, respectively, while the other choices proved more rustic and comfortable but equally delicious. With excellent bread served warm proving ample for sopping up sauces while antipasti and desserts both featured some of my very favorite ingredients in elaborate, beautiful presentations there was not a single dish that crossed the counter in my direction that was anything less than delicious and although the menu does appear to change frequently I strongly suggest giving any dessert containing the word ‘pudding’ your full attention because whether creamy and chilled or baked into a cake/budino both of the desserts were masterful explorations of taste, temperature, and texture.
An organic doughnuttery with a kiosk at The Ferry Building stopped by Pepples shortly after 1:00pm on Thursday afternoon to find a few options sold out but plenty of variety left, my final order a trio differing only in glaze overlying the dry, dull, and cakey interior. Happy to see more options on the market and generally a proponent of organic foods, or at least those avoiding trans fats while focusing on natural flavors, none of that really matters when taste and texture are compromised – this is food after all, not just a statement on beliefs and sustainability.
daikon rice cakes, shiitake mushroom, shallot, sweet chili soy
cellophane noodles, green onion, dungeness crab, sesame
doughnuts – butterscotch dipping sauce
strawberry & pistachio tart – vanilla fromage Fraiche
Always bustling but garnering mixed praise from the persons I trust I hadn’t planned to visit The Slanted Door until I was once again thwarted in my attempt to visit Mission Chinese Food – an unannounced ‘vacation’ closing its doors and leading me to the Charles Phan’s Ferry Building bastion of contemporary Vietnamese fusion cuisine. A large space with every table filled during the lunch peak and beautiful weather on the Bay my seating options on arrival were a thirty minute wait or a seat at the bar and opting for the later my meal was guided by the bartender, Vincent, who offered a few suggestions and informed me that many dishes could be ordered in half portions so that I could try more things – a fact unannounced on the menu but for which I was grateful as I subsequently opted for two half-appetizers, a half-main, and two desserts with each round more impressive than the last. Beginning first with the imperial rolls alongside the rice cakes both dishes were crisp on the outside and smooth within, a light bit of heat on the ricecakes while the rolls instead balanced the savory pork with the intrinsic sweetness of the shrimp admirably and moving next to the celebrated cellophane noodles there is undoubtedly a reason these have become the restaurant’s signature as the springy noodles are lightly decorated with tender crab and sesame – a different taste and texture in nearly every bite. Finishing with dessert and finding no help from my server (or neighbor, a regular) as to which was best I opted to go with the two dishes that sounded most appealing, the end result impossibly light doughnuts with sweet yet almost boozy butterscotch sauce and the pistachio crusted tart with a tangy cheesecake filling topped with fresh strawberries – both delicious and leaving me too undecided as to which I preferred.
Colombia Andino, Ethiopia Aricha, Ethiopia Wote, Colombia Las Cauchos
Two visits over the course of three days and four single origin samples from the pourover counter plus a couple complimentary chocolate sables from b.patisserie – along with Heart in Portland Four Barrel remains perhaps my favorite roaster in the United States. From the smooth caramel and stonefruit notes of the Andino to the thick mouthfeel and melon tones of the Yirgacheffe Wote it remains impressive to me how much flavor the team at Four Barrel can coax from the beans using such a light roasting process but having purchased 60oz of coffee since returning to Phoenix I’m glad to continue exploring their technique as new seasons and new beans arrive.
Brioche French Toast – Market Fruits, Mascarpone, Bourbon Syrup
Featuring a pastry chef as the restaurant’s chef de cuisine and a breakfast menu heavy on sweets plus Blue Bottle Coffee Mission Beach Café seemed a can’t miss breakfast while wandering The Mission and although a kitchen issue prevented the restaurant from serving their signature pancakes that day the combination of great service, iced coffee, and a truly impressive sticky bun more than made up for the cakes while a large pile of golden brioche slathered with rich mascarpone and thick bourbon infused caramel did its best to compensate for the frangipane cream-puff the restaurant sells as an almond croissant. Undoubtedly the sort of place where some locals gather while others stop by for a morning pastry and coffee en route to work I cannot say that Mission Beach Café is a ‘destination’ breakfast in a city where many restaurants may qualify for such a title but setting aside the croissant which simply is not my preferred style it is definitely a nice place to sit down, relax, and enjoy the people watching and warm hospitality.
With my first visit to Shauna Des Voignes’ Knead Patisserie nothing short of a revelation (https://endoedibles.com/?p=415) a return visit was an obvious choice during this trip to San Francisco and with a number of new delights decorating the shelves two visits was an ever better decision. Nabbing a butter pecan croissant each time without hesitation and still contesting this to be the best croissant in the United States additional selections included a chocolate croissant every bit as flaky and tender as the butter pecan version, a soft and supple pop-tart with creamy lemon filling that melted on the tongue, and a buttermilk biscuit tinged with honey that would make many southern mammas proud. From a cinnamon speckled snickerdoodle to the crispy almond twist and onward to a dense cinnamon roll muffin entitled “morning bun” and finishing up with dense caramelized brioche soaked in custard and strewn with peaches every single item once again shined, Knead still reigning as my favorite bakery in a city that also calls b.patisserie, craftsman & wolves, and Tartine home.
With my curiosity regarding Coi happily satisfied but still with room for dessert I made my way through Telegraph Hill to the soufflé-centric Café Jacqueline hoping that the small French restaurant’s seemingly exorbitant prices would yield the sort of dish I’d not soon forget; a task it achieved admirably for all the wrong reasons. Beginning first with a harried welcome from one of two pseudo-French accented servers and progressing through impossibly slow coffee refills as I munched on a baguette bordering on stale for nearly fifty-five minutes until my $40 soufflé arrived there were at least two moments where I nearly stood up and walked out but understanding that a good soufflé takes time I stuck it out only to receive a sopping wet mess that was neither sweet nor interesting yet excused by my server as “the chef’s way.” Never one to complain about prices if a meal truly shines Café Jacqueline ranks high amongst the most disappointing dining experiences of my life – certainly something I’ll not soon forget.
Celtuce, Brown Butter, Burnt Hay, Comte, Tarragon, New Potatoes
Monterey Bay Abalone, New Onion, Pea Shoots
Emigh Ranch Lamb Rack lightly poached with chard Leaves and stems, garum, and rosemary
Seascape Strawberries, Tiny Herbs
Frozen Lime Marshmallow, Coal-Toasted Meringue
Whipped Coconut, Olive Oil, Rhubarb, Blood Orange
Frozen Chocolate Ganache
Perhaps America’s most well known proponent of foraging and local-seasonal modernist cuisine my visit to Daniel Patterson’s Coi was long overdue when I arrived at the small, minimalistic dining room early on Wednesday evening. Knowing full well that this meal would likely be the most cerebral of my trip and potentially also the most formal it came as no surprise when I was greeted by the dining room manager at the door and soon thereafter by Patterson himself before being offered my choice of tables and a complimentary glass of champagne by my server, Zion, who explained the restaurant’s menu, approach, and each of the subsequent fourteen courses with great detail – a great treat not only as a solo diner, but also as someone happy to discuss the sourcing and preparation of such pristine and unique ingredients. Admittedly not a meal for everyone – particularly with dishes such as the clever “oyster’s and hot sauce” where trotter and bivalve arrived with full funk and flavor, the intensely smoky oil poached egg custard with briny trout roe, or the nearly raw and minimally adorned rack of lamb – it was exactly these facts that made the meal relevant; a reward for placing implicit trust in the chef and allowing him to show his vision and skill plate after plate, opening the diner’s eyes to something novel with nearly every bite.
Seafood Cioppino with Garlic Bread – daily preparation including clams, prawns, scallops, bay shrimp, crabmeat and sand dabs
Tadich Rice Custard Pudding
Bourbon Bread Pudding
One of the oldest and most well known restaurants in the entire Bay Area, Tadich Grill had been on my ‘to do’ list during each of my previous trips to San Francisco yet for some inexplicable reason it was not until lunch at Perbacco the day prior that I finally resolved to go, a midday seat at the famous bar with the full attention of a longtime server named Anton my reward for dining at an off hour. A restaurant with a menu almost as extensive as its history it was with much debate and discussion with Anton that I eventually decided on the Cioppino as opposed to the sand dabs or the thermidor but taking him on his word that ‘every first timer should try the cioppino and the sourdough’ I can only say that if the other options were somehow better I’d be shocked as the garlicky tomato based broth overflowing with fresh seafood was undoubtedly an archetype of the dish – impressive on its own and all the better when sopped up with the supplied garlic bread or the tangy sourdough. Never one to pass on dessert I again deferred to my server once the cioppino consisted of a dry bowl and a few clam shells but this time when he recommended the rice custard pudding I did the only thing logical by taking a large scoop of the creamy caramelized rice flan to go while indulging in a square of the restaurant’s sourdough saturated in custard and topped with boozy caramel plus whipped cream right there at the counter.
Sarah Jane’s Pancake Flight – Buttermilk, Gingerbread with Bosc Pears, Stone Ground Cornmeal “Miracle” Pancakes with Lemon Curd
French Toast Tahiti: Orange Cinnamon Challah Stuffed with caramelized bananas and walnuts
Unable to resist the early morning people watching of Haight-Ashbury during a trip to San Francisco an early Wednesday breakfast led me to Zazie, a small Cali-French bistro with high ceilings, friendly service, and most importantly a well culled menu of signature breakfast and brunch staples including both the oft raved Tahiti French Toast and three types of pancakes – all of which would find their way into an admittedly gluttonous carb-fest for one. Beginning first with the pancakes, the batter for which is sold on site, it would be hard to decide whether the Gingerbread or Cornmeal option was better but with maple syrup, pears, and lemon curd all accounted for the margin was slim and all were delicious with the texture of the cornmeal cakes toothsome yet light, an achievement not commonly achieved. Moving next to the French toast it should seem obvious to anyone that a dish with bruleed bananas, candied walnuts, and maple syrup would be delicious but what really set this toast apart was actually the subtle hints of citrus, an unexpected twist that made the entire dish taste slightly tropical and not as overwhelmingly sweet as one might think.
Mignardises – Cashew and Matcha Sponge Cake with Dulce de Leche Cream, Brown Butter Bourbon Toffee Macaron, Liquid Center Truffle
Canele in a Cinnamon Box
Take Home Sugar Brioche
Floored by my meal in the kitchen at Joshua Skene’s previous iteration of Saison in September of 2011 and hearing that the restaurant had only gotten better since relocating to its SoMa dining room/kitchen hybrid it should go without saying that I walked into the restaurant with high expectations…and walked out three hours later with all of them met or exceeded. Beginning the evening with a quick welcome in the form of champagne before progressing through two cocktails and sixteen courses plus numerous treats and surprises from pastry chef Shawn Gawle to end the evening a meal at Saison is as much about the experience as the dishes served – the smell of the hearth, the purity of the ingredients, the quality of the plating, and the fastidiousness of the staff all functioning in harmony to produce something truly special. A work of passion from the Chef and his team it would be hard to name any one dish as ‘best’ since each and every course represented the end result of superior ingredients coaxed to yield their maximum effect but from garden to sea and aged game to sweets Saison is a special place…and in my opinion the best restaurant in the United States today.
Self proclaimed as an International landmark in San Francisco’s North Beach Neighborhood and purportedly the first place for Espresso on the West Coast back in the 50’s my stop at Caffe Trieste was brief but enjoyable; the baristas clever and the prices good. Sure there is the traditional “coffee shop hipster” sort taking up the some of the cracked leather/vinyl furniture but the Americano I ordered was bold yet balanced, steaming hot, and otherwise excellent. Arriving late in the day there were no pastries to be sampled on this visit and the gentleman in the retail shop next door was a bit surly, but all-in-all a good place to grab a quick cup of coffee.
Sampler French Toast – Banana Nut, Cinnamon Brioche, Cranberry Orange Walnut Covered with Bananas and Fresh Berries
Carrot Cake
Crumb Cake
Monte Cristo – Roasted Turkey Breast, Honey Baked Ham, Cheddar and Gruyere Cheese battered in Egg and grilled
The conference all but wrapped up and dinner not until 8:00pm a friend suggested a walk up to Coit Tower with the side agenda of potentially visiting Mama’s, the 50 year old institution in North Beach where locals and tourists alike often wait hours to sample the fresh, made from scratch home cooking passed down from founder Mama Sanchez – the rumor was that around 2:00pm the breakfast/lunch crowd had dissipated…though that rumor turned out to be an eighty minute falsehood before we made our way through the line, placed our order, and sat awaiting our food. A cute space whose long waits are a combination of its small size, attention to detail, and (appropriately) never rushing a customer even after their meal is finished it should really come as no surprise that once our selections did arrive everything was quite delicious and although certainly the sort of thing any home cook could probably make not exactly the sort of thing mom spends hours making every morning – particularly the multiple house made breads used to make the supple French Toast or superlative, thick Monte Cristo. Obviously not the sort of place one would choose to eat every day given the crowds all-in-all Mama’s is definitely an experience worth the effort…though next time I think I’d sooner show up at 7:30 to avoid the line and order a few more of the quick breads to snack on later in the day – particularly that crumb cake with its nearly inch thick streusel topping.
