Perbacco, San Francisco CA

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Perbacco

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Grissini with Olive and Cilantro

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Warm Focaccia with Butter

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Stracci – Spinach Rags, Devils Gulch Rabbit Ragu, Golden Chanterelles, Peas and Carrots

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Coujette – Occitaine Potato Gnocchi, Liberty Farm Duck Ragu, Roasted Cherries

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Bombolini – Candy Cap Donuts, Green Strawberry Compote, Douglas Fir Crema, Warm Summer Berries

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Burnt Caramel Gelato with Pine Nut Cookies

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Largely replicating the dining path of the day prior due to convenience, lunch amongst the power brokers on Tuesday saw me seated at a hightop near the front of Italian stalwart Perbacco. Ostensibly a modernized take on Piemontese and Ligurian cuisine from Nordic chef Staffan Terje the first thing that struck me upon walking in was the impressive size of the restaurant and the seemingly 1:2 ratio of servers to tables assuring that each and every diner is never for want, a particularly good thing for keeping the water and bread basket clean in such a busy space and all the more so when my server, Christopher, explained to me that most plates could be ordered in half portions thus opening up my options substantially. Clearly the sort of place where a lunch could be leisurely or fit within the typical lunch hour it would not be long after my focaccia arrived that the first of two pastas would come, in this case the rich and earthy stracci, and close on its heels three of my favorite things all on one plate; tender gnocchi, supple duck, and sweet cherries – a ‘best of’ dish on a trip with many and good enough that I actually requested a second demi-portion that arrived fifteen minutes later – a decision I’d regret only slightly when I realized there were at least four desserts I wanted to taste, instead limiting myself to the truly fascinating sweet mushroom donuts filled with green strawberry jam…plus a scoop of intense caramel gelato flecked with smoked sea salt rounding out a truly excellent lunch.

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http://www.perbaccosf.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, Perbacco, San Francisco, Vacation

Eastern Bakery, San Francisco CA

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Eastern Bakery

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Egg Custard

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Sesame Bun with Black Bean Paste

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Coffee Crunch Cake

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Impressed as I was by Golden Gate Bakery a visit to Eastern Bakery seemed like a good followup during lunch on the last day of the conference…unfortunately the combination of a soggy, luke warm Egg Custard, oily and meagerly filled sesame buns, and a clerk that ranks high in the running for least friendly of all time marred the one item that truly shined – a coffee crunch cake with four spongy yellow layers divided by light espresso tinged cream and a crunchy toffee topping that not only served as textural variance but also added a hint of needed sweetness without overwhelming the otherwise subtle nuances of the dish.

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http://easternbakery.com/

Posted in California, Coffee, Dessert, Eastern Bakery, Food, San Francisco, Vacation

Plow, San Francisco CA

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Plow

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Equator Coffee

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Blueberry Streusel Muffin

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Lemon Ricotta Pancake

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French Toast with Strawberries, Mascarpone, Maple Syrup

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Another day led to another breakfast near Potrero Hill, this time at Plow where Maxine Siu and a small team of four embracing the theme of “Midwest country boy meets San Francisco China girl” churned out a an eclectic list of early morning classics to a constantly packed dining room of locals and tourists alike. With friendly service from a young woman named Kirby and a seat at the bar allowing me to watch the kitchen at work the duration of my stay was bookended with copious refills of rich Mocha Java from Equator with three plates between, the first a dense blueberry muffin stuffed with fresh berries and the latter two single orders of the restaurant’s highly praised ricotta pancakes and custard soaked French Toast. Rich and decadent, particularly after the addition of pure maple syrup, it would be a tough call as to whether the French Toast was quite as good as that at nopa but no matter which side of the fence one falls on both are in the upper echelon of their genre and unlike nopa Plow offers their breakfast all week.

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http://www.eatatplow.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Coffee, Food, French Toast, Pancakes, Plow, San Francisco, Vacation

Commonwealth, San Francisco CA

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Commonwealth

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Nori Chips with Vinegar Foam

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Wizard’s Sleeve – Sake, Earl Grey, Cocoa Nib, Lime, Liquid Nitrogen

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Uni, Cured Egg Yolk, Seaweed, Cracker, Asparagus Gel

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Carrot Fennel Soup, Crème Fraiche, Dill

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Smoked Olive, Puffed Grains, Trout Roe, Cannelini Beans, Puffed Grains

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Morrel Mushrooms, Fava Bean and Nettle Porridge, Fermented Carrot, Black Walnut, Pickled Carrot

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Squid and Pork Belly, Soft Boiled Egg, Hay Smoked Potato, Pickled Onion, Fine Herbs

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Tea Smoked Duck, Sprouted Wheat Berry, Burnt Tangerine, Crispy Duck Tongues

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Celery Sorbet, Verjus Soda

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Peanut Butter Semifreddo, Chocolate Ganache, Frozen Popcorn, Caramel

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Matcha Marshmallow, Grapefruit Meringue, Garden Mint Bon Bon

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Again making time for a second dinner, this time solo, a brisk walk to Jason Fox’s Commonwealth would see me seated not just at the pass, but literally in the kitchen of the small restaurant where a meal originally intended to include a few small plates slowly morphed into a nine course tasting comprising dishes from both the a la carte section and the tasting menu, some ordered and some gifted, and all remarkable in not only the ingredient quality but also in the execution – simple, unexpected pairings becoming far more than the sum of their parts. Beginning first with the best ‘salt and vinegar’ chips I can imagine alongside a slushy-style cocktail that was playful yet spirit forward before transitioning to plates walking a fine line between modernist and classical, esoteric and accessible perhaps the most impressive aspect of the meal was just how well each plate bridged to the next, a symphony of textures and flavors touching every part of the palate – creamy uni balanced by brine, rich morels finding harmony with bitter black walnuts and nettles, and snappy squid and fatty pork belly melded by smoke and vinegar…each standing on their own but building on a theme that kept my attention from beginning to end, a task rarely achieved and all the more impressive as it arose outside the framework of a traditional tasting menu.

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http://www.commonwealthsf.com

Posted in California, Commonwealth, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation

Flour + Water, San Francisco CA

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Flour + Water

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Bread and Olive Oil

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Stone fruit with avocado, salsa verde, ricotta, almonds

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Corn cappelletti with brown butter and basil

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Fennel tortelli with halibut and tomato

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Chervil tagliarini with clams, mussels, seaweed, lemon

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Farfalle with Braised Quail, Squash, Lemon Verbena

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Farro rigatoni with whey braised goat and olive

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Chocolate Budino with Espresso Cream and Sea Salt

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Carnaroli Rice Pudding with Apricot, Blueberries, Almond Cake, Basil

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Located in the Mission and garnering more than enough acclaim since opening its doors, Thomas McNaughton’s Flour + Water was one of the first reservations I secured when planning my trip to San Francisco and opting for an early seat at the bar my arrival coincided with the daily walk-ins, a group that would fill the restaurant to capacity within twenty minutes of opening and as clear an indication as one would ever need of the restaurants sustaining popularity. Featuring a diverse menu of regional Italian specialties from antipasti and pizza to large scale secondi the focus of Flour + Water is clearly on pasta and although I’d have loved to try the pizza and no less than a dozen other menu selections I instead went with my gut and the daily pasta tasting – an antipasti, five different pastas, and dolci for a mere $65, plus an exquisite rice pudding I simply couldn’t pass up – each item remarkable in its ingredient quality and preparation with three of the pastas ranking amongst the best I’ve ever had. Rustic yet upscale and hearty yet delicate Flour + Water represents to me exactly what Italian food can be at its very best and although San Francisco harbors more than its fair share of mid-priced “Cal-Ital” fare, none of them save for perhaps SPQR are executing pasta on the same level as McNaughton and his team.

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http://www.flourandwater.com/

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Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Flour + Water, Flour and Water, Food, Italian, San Francisco, Tasting Menu, Vacation

Humphry Slocombe [2], San Francisco CA

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Humphry Slocombe

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Maple Walnut and Fluffernutter

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Having made the rounds to some of the purported “best” ice cream shops in America I can only say that although there are a few places with a signature flavor or two that are truly remarkable no one outside of Jeni’s so consistently produces ice cream as high quality and innovative as that at Humphry Slocombe. Fantastic in texture and pure in flavor, the Fluffernutter even maintained some yeasty notes to go along with the peanut butter and marshmallow tones.

http://humphryslocombe.com/Home.html

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Humphry Slocombe, Ice Cream, San Francisco, Vacation

Wayfare Tavern, San Francisco CA

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Wayfare Tavern

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Popovers with Salted Butter

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Devils on horseback – Medjool dates, blue cheese, shiso hazelnut pesto

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Organic Fried Chicken – buttermilk brine, roasted garlic, crisp woody herbs, lemon

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Darlene Peach Pie – Organic Frog Hollow peaches, brown butter ice cream, rosemary sugar

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Admitting up front that I’d not recognize Tyler Florence if I ran into him on the street my visit to Wayfare Tavern was predicated on one thing; a friend’s claim that the restaurant served the best fried chicken he had ever experienced – a bold claim that I hoped to verify while dining at the pass alongside some of San Francisco’s power lunch crowd. A large room, rustic but with high ceilings and large windows adding some levity to the taxidermy, wood, and leather the service at Wayfare Tavern was professional if not friendly and after brushing aside no less than three suggestions to order wine or a cocktail I placed my order and within moments was enjoying the first of two buttery popovers served with salted butter that, had I not limited myself could have easily turned into a half dozen. Moving next to an appetizer suggested as one of the chef’s signature dishes a quartet of enormous dates arrived stuffed with blue cheese and wrapped in prosciutto atop aromatic pesto and shortly thereafter came the chicken, a truly remarkable presentation very lightly breaded and rife with notes of sage, rosemary, thyme, buttermilk, and garlic – it was a dish easily large enough to feed two and if not the best fried chicken I’ve had to date at least a very strong contender for that title, a sentiment that could equally be applied to dessert – a flaky crust literally stuffed to bursting with fresh peaches and topped with a crackling sugar glaze that I was more than happy to take on solo even if it was probably intended to be shared.

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www.wayfaretavern.com

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation, Wayfare Tavern

Golden Gate Bakery, San Francisco CA

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Golden Gate Bakery

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Black Bean Moon Cake

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Egg Custard Tart

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I really have no excuse as to why I’d omitted Golden Gate Bakery from my Bay Area dining itinerary in the past but for the sake of saving face I’ll pretend it was because of the rumored long lines and random unannounced closures, neither of which was present when I arrived to find hot egg custard tarts emerging from the kitchen just after noon on a Monday. Warm and jiggly I quickly ate the first before more slowly enjoying the second, the pastry crisp and intensely buttery when sampled alone while the custard was sweeter than my past experiences yet still pronouncedly eggy – a great achievement, no doubt. Happily taking my server’s advice as other warm items were just coming out of the oven I also ordered a dense Moon Cake, my first experience with this pastry, and loaded with sweetened black bean paste my only regret is that I did not try the taro or lotus options as well.

http://goldengatebakery.com/

Posted in California, Dessert, Food, Golden Gate Bakery, San Francisco, Vacation

The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen, San Francisco CA

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The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen

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Lemon Blueberry Muffin

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Breakfast Piglet – sharp cheddar, artisan cured ham, apple mustard, rosemary butter

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Hungry for a snack between sessions at the conference and having seen American Grilled Cheese Kitchen while waking past AT&T Field earlier that morning I decided to stop in for a quick bite largely because the location was convenient and the concept and sourcing seemed sound, but unfortunately the ‘pros’ of the restaurant only went that far as the signature grilled cheese was good but not terribly inventive or rave worthy when compared to the likes of Cleveland’s MELT or other artisan grilled cheese shops. Well priced at $5.50 for the sandwich and accompanied by a large lemon muffin chock-a-block full of fresh blueberries for another $2 one could certainly do worse for lunch or a snack near the ballpark, but then again in San Francisco one could also do much better.

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http://theamericansf.com/

Posted in American Grilled Cheese Kitchen, Breakfast, California, Dessert, Food, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation

Just for You Café, San Francisco CA

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Just for You Café

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French Toast

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Beignets

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Cornbread

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Biscuits and Raspberry Jam

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While I have no idea how a menu touting “New Orleans and Mexican specialties, California classics” came about at Dogpatch darling Just For You Café, the hours and location couldn’t be beat given my Monday conference agenda and with breads all baked in house while meats and produce are largely local and mostly organic the restaurant seemed worthy of an early morning walk up to Portrero Hill. Finding the restaurant expectedly small, kitschy, and without a doubt the sort of place where ‘regulars’ make up the majority of the clientele I was quickly greeted like an old time friend upon entry and placing my order without much delay it would be perhaps five minutes later that I was treated to a pillowy beignet lighter, larger, and far less greasy than I’d experienced since my visit to New Orleans – a good start to be sure. Focusing more on sweets than savories, what followed the beignet would prove equally impressive with the French toast golden and soft, the cornbread a sweet block warm from the oven, and the biscuits raised high with rich buttermilk notes and a light yeasty linger than paired beautifully with the house made raspberry jam – the whole meal with tax and tip ringing in at $17.50 and worth every penny.

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http://www.justforyoucafe.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, California, Cornbread, Food, Just for You Café, Pancakes, San Francisco, Vacation

Delfina, San Francisco CA

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Delfina

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White Peach Bellini

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Semolina Bread and Butter

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Polenta Taragna

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Papardelle with Liberty Duck Ragu

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Tripe alla Fiorentina

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Comtesse Thibier Monbazillac

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Lemon Budino – Strawberries, Olive Oil Gelato, Basil

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Another day and another second dinner led myself and a friend to Delfina, a place that had somehow always fallen off of my must visit list despite numerous raves and accolades from palates I trust. Considered by some to be the best California Italian restaurant in a city sporting the likes of Spruce, Flour + Water, SPQR, and more it came as no surprise that the bustling Mission restaurant was filled to capacity on our arrival and opting to visit the restaurant on a whim we luckily nabbed the last two seats at the bar where we were placed under the care of a young woman named Kari who offered a few suggestions, and later a complimentary glass of honey sweet Monebazillac to go with dessert. Having both already enjoyed an earlier dinner but wanting to experience a representative sample of the menu the decision was made to order one side, one pasta, and one ‘main’ before dessert and with the choices left in my hand I let personal biases guide me into a rustic trio of cheesy toothsome polenta, tender pasta ribbons with gamy duck tamed by bright, balanced tomato sauce, and finally a bowl of tripe in aromatic San Marzanos, some tender and others pan fried to crisp. Delicious but certainly not ‘light,’ dessert would consist of an airy sponge cake topped with light Meyer Lemon gel dubbed a budino positioned alongside typically perfect California Strawberries, creamy gelato, and a touch of basil – a delicate dessert to end a great evening and one of many reasons a return visit to Delfina for a better sampling of the menu is planned for the not so distant future.

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http://www.delfinasf.com/restaurant/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Delfina, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Italian, San Francisco, Vacation

Frances, San Francisco CA

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Frances

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Wheat Sourdough and Salted Cultured Butter

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Unsweetened Black Tea

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Applewood Smoked Bacon Beignets – Maple Chive Crème Fraiche

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Panisse Frites – Chickpea Fritters, Preserved Lemon, Olive Aioli

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Sonoma Duck Breast – Lacinato Kale, Fennel Agrodolce, Roasted Fig, Spiced Duck Jus

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Ricotta Gnocchi, Nettle Pesto, Toasted Walnut

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Lumberjack Cake – Fuji Apple, Nectarine, Coconut, Medjool Date, Maple Ice Cream

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Spring Princess Peach ‘Vol au Vent’ Tart – Franquette Walnut Frangipane, Candied Ginger Ice Cream

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Small, intimate, and exquisite would be a good way to begin a list of adjectives describing Frances and for those willing to make a reservation far in advance (or to show up early enough to snag a walk-in table) the rewards begin almost immediately on entry with a warm greeting, flawless service, and perhaps the best warm wheat sourdough in the city. With frequent visits to the dining room by Chef Perello and a daily menu of specials the first step I’d advise would be checking out a few signatures, specifically the creamy chickpea fries and smoky-sweet fried pillows that the restaurant calls beignets. With main courses all larger than one would expect one would next be advised to bring an appetite if they plan to order three courses (which they should) and with crispy skin overlying supple, rosy flesh the duck should be ordered if it is on the menu, particularly if the preparation includes figs and the all-day braising juices from the fowl and if contemplating a side dish it would be hard to think of one better than the gnocchi – the best textured I’ve experienced in California presented in a true “California cuisine” manner with herbal pesto and slightly sweetened toasty almonds. Moving last to dessert, the Lumberjack cake is a signature for a reason but choosing just one dessert seemed illogical as all five of the daily options sounded stellar and in the end my instinct proved correct as the light, buttery pastry surrounding fresh peaches was a rustic, perfect ending to a meal that exceeded all expectations.

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http://www.frances-sf.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Frances, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation

Prospect, San Francisco CA

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Prospect

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Monkey Bread Cinnamon Butter

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Strawberry Shortcake Scone Sweetened Crème Fraiche, Fresh Strawberries & Demerara Sugar

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Peaches & Cream Pancakes – Cream Cheese Pancakes, Peach Syrup, Bruléed Peaches, Whipped Mascarpone, Honeycomb

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When the team behind Boulevard opened Prospect it quickly went on the list of places to visit whenever I next visited San Francisco and with the debut of a brunch menu plus convenient location to the Moscone Center it seemed a perfect choice for Sunday Brunch during ENDO2013…at least until I arrived, the following 75 minutes consisting of being wedged into a small table between ladies who lunch (and drink…a lot,) having my main course entirely forgotten by “Jason,” and receiving underwhelming, undersized, and overpriced plates including a scone so dry that no amount of berries or cream could help and pancakes closely approximating rubber accompanied with perhaps 1/3 of a peach for $15. A nice space, very clean and modern, perhaps my visit was an anomaly…but at $50 including tax and tip I’m not willing to go back and find out.

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http://www.prospectsf.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Dessert, Food, Pancakes, Prospect, San Francisco, Vacation

b. patisserie, San Francisco CA

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b. patisserie

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Mille Feuille

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Raspberry Sugar Brioche

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10 Hour Apple Tart

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Blackberry Croissant

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Grand Macaron

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Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Liquid Chocolate Almond Croissant

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Kouign Amann

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I first experienced Belinda Leong’s pastry at Manresa and I tasted it again at Four Barrel Coffee; both times were impressive and thus when I found out that the chef would be opening her own brick and mortar patisserie it instantly went on my must visit list – at the very least it would make an admirable breakfast or midday snack, but at its best I assumed it could add another example to the growing list of why a trip to The Bay Area for pastry can be every bit as good as a trip to Paris for the same…and after three visits in nine days I’m rather confident saying that b. patisserie fulfilled the later. Classically trained and now housed in a large, open space with plenty of working room and a well trained staff much of what I loved about b. patisserie was the atmosphere – bright, airy, high ceilings, flowers, and sunlight with marble and steel keeping it slightly modern…plus the pastries, all on display behind glass stretching a curved counter around the workspace. Tasting eight pastries plus a sample of the team’s house made granola not a single item during my visit was less than delicious but showing an incredible skill set with laminated pastry the true standouts were the signature Kouign Amann and Choaolate Almond Croissant, both purchased while still warm and both spilling semi-liquid contents on a shattering first bite – the Breton pastry pure butter and the croissant dark chocolate. Not to be outdone, a second visit found the Mille Feuille being constructed a la minute and the confit apple tart fresh from the oven – both as good as any I’ve had stateside or overseas.

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http://bpatisserie.com/

Posted in B.Patisserie, Breakfast, California, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Macaroon, San Francisco, Vacation

The Mill, San Francisco CA

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The Mill

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Four Barrel Americano

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Cinnamon Raisin Bread with McClelland’s Butter and Sea Salt

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Country Bread with Butter and Cinnamon Sugar

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Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Advertised, though not really ‘advertised’ at all, as a joint venture between Josey Baker Bread and Four Barrel Coffee, The Mill reminds me of summers and Sundays with my Grandfather as a child – coffee, toast, and the occasional pastry…the simplest of breakfasts, and yet here all grown up and far evolved from the days of Folgers’s and Vienna Bread from the local Kroger. Warm, well lit, wide open, and with ample seating even when crowds get large it should be obvious to those familiar with the purveyors and products involved that a visit to The Mill does not come cheaply but with each item prepped to order this is simply a place where you get what you pay for, the steamy Americano toting a $3 price tag and toasts and pastries ranging from $3.50-$4.00, the daily special raisin bread soaked with butter and sea salt particularly memorable and something my granddad would have never paid for but most certainly would have loved.

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http://themillsf.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Four Barrel, San Francisco, The Mill, Vacation

Sons & Daughters, San Francisco CA

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Sons & Daughters

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Buttermilk Chip, Trout Roe, Crème Fraiche

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Cornbread Toast, Strauss Butter, Buttermilk Yogurt

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Marin Miyago Oysters, Dill and unripe strawberry

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Roasted Baby beets, Vadouvan spices, spring herbs, pickled mustard seeds, yogurt

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Delta Asparagus, Monterey Seaweed, Smoked Bread

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Ricotta and Preserved Lemon Roll

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Fogline Farm Chicken, Garden Greens, Pickled Radish, Creamy mousse, smoked skin

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Pretzel Roll

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Seared Squab, Fennel, Golden Sweet Apricot, Marcona Almond

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Raspberry Curd, Kumquat, Salad Burnet, Candied Raspberry, Sweet Woodruff Meringue, Nasturtium

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Geranium Ice Cream, Blueberry, Redwood Clover, White Chocolate Mousse, Huckleberry Black Pepper Compote

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Vanilla Macaron with Cookie Crumble and Chocolate Mint Ganache, Apricot Pate de Fruit, Cinnamon Walnut Brittle

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No stranger to dual tasting menus in a given night I opted to keep my reservation at Sons & Daughters even though I’d been talked into an earlier tasting at AQ and although I cannot recommend such a thing for everyone the phrase “an embarrassment of riches” summarizes what followed quite well. Small and exceedingly Parisian in feel with a mere 28 seats divided amongst two rooms and the kitchen on full display in the upper of these, Sons & Daughters features only one menu per evening and with an intense focus on precision, minimalism, and bringing forth the true flavors of items from their farm in Los Gatos the entirety of the meal plays out like a well orchestrated dance, chefs and servers both delivering and describing plates as modern music plays lightly overhead. From the opening volley of a delicate sour chip coddling a dollop of caviar through a progression of outstanding vegetation lightly accented with herbs and spices onward to a pair of proteins including strips of ruby red squab serving as a poignant counterpoint to intensely sweet apricots each savory dish brought with it a new experience and not to be outdone the pastry team also shined, both in a pairing of light yet complex desserts and throughout the meal with a bread service that ranks amongst the best in the city.

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www.sonsanddaughterssf.com

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Macaroon, Sons & Daughters, Sons and Daughters, Tasting Menu, Vacation

AQ, San Francisco CA

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AQ

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Carraway Poppyseed Bread and Cultured Butter

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Celery, Lime, and Herb Bitters

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Taco of Red Torpedo Onion, Sprouts, Mint, Caramelized Olives, Sardines /Sweet Corn Cromesquis & Cilantro Stem Vinegar /Yogurt with Tarragon Cake and Fresh Tarragon

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House Made Butter, Acorn Fed Cured Pork Lomo, Preserved Green Peppers, Whey and Lemon Verbena, Brioche Bread, Chervil

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Basil, Charred White Nectarines, Razor Clams in Yuzu Kosho and Tapioca Pearls, Chilled Ramp and Marcona Almond Soup

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Nepitilla Octopus Mapo with Garden Peas, Smoked Potato, Okra, Crumble of dried Spicy Herbs, Szechuan Peppercorn, Soy Milk Custard

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Lemon Balm caramelized Black footed Iberico Pork and Blood Pudding, Puffed Rice, Beets Roasted for Four Hours and finished with anise seed, preserved sour grapes

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Rose Geranium, Local Goat Cheese Marinated with Young Olive Oil and Bay Leaf, Crystalized Rose Geranium, Raspberry

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Tarragon Ice Cream, warm early summer corn spoon bread, sweet woodruff infused caramelized condensed milk

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Sour Cherry Pate de fruit

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In all reality I had no intention of sitting down to a full dinner at AQ when I entered the restaurant at 5:30pm and took a seat at the pass; I was there for a few snacks and a cocktail before dinner at Sons and Daughters a few hours later…at least until my waitress Whitney told me that this night marked the first night for the early summer tasting menu and that I could be the very first guest to experience Chef Liberman’s newest interpretation of Northern California’s bounty of herbs and produce, a quick perusal of the menu assuring me this was an opportunity I shouldn’t miss. With a chef from Sonoma and substantial focus on all that is local and seasonal – on the plate, in the glass, and even hanging from the walls – plus classic French sensibilities on full display it would be difficult to sum up the experience that is a meal at AQ without using the phrase “California Cuisine,” but unlike many places in San Francisco where this can be seen as a slight due to the homogeneity of the market, here it should be seen as a compliment with each plate bright, fresh, and invigorating. Starting with a simple herbal elixir before progressing though plate after plate of intricately layered flavors and textures including an Octopus Mapo that ranks amongst the best things I’ve eaten this year to caramelized pork cooked by bathing the loin at least fifty times in braising liquid to a dessert cornbread that redefined the simple southern classic all while Chef Liberman watched, taught, tweaked, and improvised on the fly…if there is a better $70 tasting menu in America I’d like to book my plane tickets now.

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http://aq-sf.com/

Posted in AQ, Bread Basket, California, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Octopus, Pork, Restaurant AQ, San Francisco, Tasting Menu, Vacation

Nopa, San Francisco CA

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Nopa

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Blackberry Walnut Scone – Crème FraÎche

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Goat Cheese Bread Pudding – Agrodolce Blueberries and Arugula

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Custard French Toast – Roasted Blueberries and Honey–Lemon Butter

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Blue Bottle Americano

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“@Nopa, probly 30m for bar seat” said the text and having originally considered the small panhandle hot-spot for Sunday brunch a quick change of plans and a mile and a half walk saw me enterthe jammed-packed restaurant with about an hour left in the brunch menu, one of my friends making a few feet of space for me to stand close enough to the bar to share some plates until I eventually landed a seat fifteen minutes later. Loud, crowded, and consistently packed from open to close yet considered by many to be the best brunch in town much of my sampling was focused on the sweet half of the menu while my friends enjoyed a burger, fries, arugula salad, and a few mezcal bloody mary’s mixed by our bartender/server Zadri and inclusive of the uncomfortable ‘seating’ and decibel level I have to admit the place lived up to its reputation, all three of the signature brunch items coming into vibrant focus through the use of produce of the highest quality. Beginning first with a buttery scone paired with tangy crème fraÎche and then moving to the surprisingly funky yet entirely enjoyable quiche-like bread pudding it was, as expected, the third dish that would prove most memorable – a perfect piece of French Toast, caramelized on the exterior and nearly liquid within, graced with pure maple syrup, bursting blueberries, and light notes of honey…the best in The Bay by far, and amongst the best I’ve had anywhere.

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http://www.nopasf.com/

Posted in Blue Bottle Coffee, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, nopa, San Francisco, Vacation

Craftsman & Wolves, San Franciso CA

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Craftsman & Wolves

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Blueberry Muffin

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Chocolate Croissant Stack

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Warm caramel, salted butter, croissant shavings

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Toasted chocolate bread, vanilla ricotta, honey, almonds

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The Devil – chocolate cake, toffee, cocoa nib

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The Rebel Within – Asiago, Sausage, Green Onion, Egg

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Raspberry Almond Croissant

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Chocolate Salted Caramel Brownie

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Valrhona Chocolate Chip Cookie

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Éclair – Coffee Cream, Caramel Marmalade, Dark Chocolate

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Cocoa Carrot Muffin

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The brainchild of Chef William Werner, Craftsman & Wolves has been perhaps the most buzzed about patisserie aside from Dominique Ansel and his Cronut for the past year and although the California foie gras ban took a little bit out of The Devil Within it did nothing to diminish my interest in the contemporary Mission bakery; a location I visited thrice during my most recent trip to San Francisco in addition to a stop at their booth during the Saturday Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market. Featuring an industrial setting with brick, metal, and wood aplenty but a bit less seating than would be ideal on weekends and an ample display of items both savory and sweet, ready to go or made to order, I’d be hard pressed to say that anything I tasted at C&W was less than exemplary and although The Devil and The Rebel Within get a lot of well deserved press the two items that impressed me most were those ‘made to order’ – specifically the sweet, salty, and silky liquid caramel and a slice of dense Valrhona chocolate bread heavily laden with ricotta, local honey, and lightly salted almonds – simple, balanced, and all the better when dipped into the caramel.

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http://craftsman-wolves.tumblr.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Coffee, Craftsman & Wolves, Craftsman and Wolves, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Pork, San Francisco, Vacation

Maverick, San Francisco CA

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Maverick

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Bread

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Coffee

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CREAM PUFFS – Chocolate, vanilla, strawberry

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LOBSTER BREAD PUDDING “BENEDICT” – Bernaise, bloomsdale spinach, corn, home fries

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Located in the Mission and part of a truly epic day of eating I arrived at Maverick shortly before the restaurant opened and knowing exactly what I wanted to order before I even entered the small space it was not long before I found myself at a two-top near the window where my waiter, Angel, told me of the daily specials and almost convinced me to change my mind – almost because both Chef Eng and his sous chef had not yet arrived and no one could figure out how to make the Bernaise…a situation that, much to my surprise, would be remedied by Angel himself as he entered the kitchen and whipped up a respectably lemony sauce that nicely complimented the dense, sweet, and buttery lobster cakes I’d been looking forward to. Started off with soft bread and salted butter plus copiously filled coffee and finishing up with light puffs of choux filled with custard, cream, dark chocolate, and fresh berries – a good meal well deserving of a substantial tip.

http://www.sfmaverick.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Lobster, Maverick, San Francisco, Vacation