Osteria Fiorella
Seeded Sourdough Bread, Durum Focaccia, Olive Oil, Balsamic Vinegar
Sal’s Meatballs – Whipped Ricotta, Garlic Durum Focaccia
Ricotta Gnocchi – Brown Butter, Crispy Leeks
Pappardelle – Duck Ragu, Black Olives
Corn Agnolotti – Pickled Blueberries, Basil
Mortadella Pizza – Pistachio Pesto, Mozzarella Cheese
Veal Chop Parm – Bufala Mozzarella, San Marzano Tomato Sauce, Basil
Bonet – Custard, Peaches, Blueberries, Strawberries, Figs
Cookie Gelato Sandwich – Black Cherry Gelato, Sprinkles, Whipped Cream, Hot Fudge, Caramel
Jenny’s Old School Ricotta Pie – Macerated Berries
Peach + Blueberry Tart – Honey Gelato
Tricolor Cake – Pistachio Gelato, Pistachios, Raspberry Jam
Born stateside and trained in the kitchens of Bergamo Italy Marc Vetri’s name may not carry the weight of some “Celebrity Chefs,” but at his eponymous Restaurant in Philadelphia there has nonetheless been a book full of reservations for two decades, and in November 2018 the husband, father, musician, author and humanitarian transported his iconic dining room 56 stories above the Las Vegas Strip only to see it soon-shuttered by COVID-19.
In many ways Sin City’s biggest opening of that year, Station Casinos’ willingness to invest in Fine Dining admirable even though such risks appear to be part of what eventually devastated The Palms, fans of Chef Vetri and Off-strip dining were granted a reprieve by way of Osteria Fiorella which took over the old Terra Rossa at Red Rock Casino in early July.
Begun as a pop-up, but officially announced as a permanent fixture with signage just last week, Osteria Fiorella takes its name from Vetri’s Pasta Bar back in the City of Brotherly Love, and although none will mistake the immense dining room with tiled kitchen plus patio as part of South Philly’s Italian Market the 1970’s soundtrack and warm service is nonetheless welcoming to all.
Reservations-requested and masks-required, thermal scanning at the Casino entrance providing an added layer of safety, it is upon seating that guests are offered the choice of disposable or QR code menu, socially-distanced seating keeping noise levels modest even during a surprisingly busy Senior Wednesday.
Dividing the decisions into six sections, all priced approximately 25-40% less than those familiar with Vetri Cucina may recall, complimentary Bread began the evening right with two styles, Seeded Sourdough robust and well-suited to good Olive Oil while Durum Wheat Focaccia acts best as a fluffy means to sop up Sauce, as is intended with Sal’s tender Veal, Pork and Beef Meatballs abutting whipped Cheese and stewed Tomatoes.
Honoring old-school Italians across the menu, Fiorella a former Sausage shop owner and Sal Marc’s father, Pasta-making follows time honored tradition with an eye toward modernity, ribbons of Pappardelle peerless amidst Braised Duck and salty Olives while seasonal Sweet Corn dazzles at the center of Agnolotti pockets decorated in pickled Blueberries plus Basil.
Never overlooking Vetri’s legendary Gnocchi, so light they might float off the plate were it not for Brown Butter and frizzled Leeks, Salad and Contorni sat the sideline in favor of a Wood-Oven Pizza topped with imported Mortadella plus vibrant Pesto served alongside the $58 Veal Chop Parm that can easily feed two with its golden-crisp Meat, top-tier Cheese and bright Tomatoes.
Turning Dessert over to Pastry Chef Ashley Costa, one of Las Vegas’ most under-discussed talents dating back to her days at Carnevino, Osteria Fiorella’s sweets trend a little more casual than what was once served high atop The Palms, but whether one opts for a creamy Custard Bonet or elegant Tart made with Seasonal Fruits they most certainly should not miss out on Tricolor Cake that eats like a supersized version of the iconic Cookie or Jenny’s Cinnamon-rich Ricotta Pie – though the daily Gelato “Sandwich” is also delicious and well-portioned for a couple.
FIVE STARS: On August 27th 2010 this author flew from Ohio to Philadelphia just to taste the Food of Marc Vetri, both that meal as well as another two years later equally remarkable, and although much has changed both personally and globally in the decade between the simple truth is that Chef Vetri remains one of America’s greatest Italian Chefs while GM Matteo Giacomazzi’s hospitality and Desserts from Chef Costa further elevate Osteria Fiorella into a destination for both casual diners and gourmands.
RECOMMENDED: Sal’s Meatballs, Ricotta Gnocchi, Corn Agnolotti, Veal Chop Parm, Jenny’s Old School Ricotta Pie, Tricolor Cake.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: Currently open Wednesday through Sunday 4:30pm to 9:30pm. @osteriafiorella on Social.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.redrockresort.com/eat-and-drink/osteria-fiorella
