Osteria Fiorella
Pastry Plate – Sour Cream + Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake, Cornetto, Biscuit, White Chocolate + Cherry Scone
Pumpkin Tart with Bourbon Whipped Cream
Jenny’s Old School Ricotta Pie – Macerated Berries
Giant Cinnamon Bun
Apple Fritters – Cream Cheese Frosting
Foccaccia French Toast – Sweet Ricotta, Huckleberries, Maple Syrup
Soft Scrambled Egg Toast – Foccacia, Creme Fraiche, Chives
Smoked Trout Toast – Focaccia, Philly Cream Cheese, Capers, Red Onion
Crispy Potatoes – Beer Cheese Sauce, Bacon
Eggs in Purgatory – San Marzano Tomato, Focaccia
Ravioli Tre Formaggi – Oyster Mushroom, Thyme
Bucatini – San Marzano Tomato
Cacio e Pepe Pizza – Sunny Egg, Bacon
In many ways Sin City’s biggest opening of 2018, or at least it’s most exclusive, the shutter of Vetri Cucina seemed inevitable – a combination of exorbitant prices and The Palms’ wanton spending raising eyebrows of even the most well-traveled diners long before anyone had heard of COVID-19.
Flash forward nearly two years, the Bergamo-trained Chef from Philly transporting his talents and reputation to Red Rock Casino in July 2020, it was on the strength of Osteria Fiorella’s dinner service that six diners sat down for Sunday Brunch al Fresco, though unfortunately little save for the Pastries, conversation and dollars spent was memorable
Begun as a pop-up, but officially announced as a permanent fixture with signage in August, Brunch at Fiorella is a fairly new development, the lack of Dinner’s complimentary Bread service immediately worth mentioning as small plates instead remain empty unless one orders the Pastry Plate featuring a delicious Biscuit, Coffee Cake, Cornetto and Scone.
Additionally finding Thanksgiving’s Pumpkin Tart alongside Pastries, both it and a slice of Old School Cheesecake offered as gifts from Pastry Chef Ashley Costa, the oft-Instagrammed “Giant” Cinnamon Bun lives up to its name at the bargain price of $10 while bite-size Apple Fritters are light and oilless at approximately $2 per bite.
Not the sort usually turned-off by high prices, but at the same time fully aware of Ingredient costs, what came next was an egregious $16 slice of French Toast, the otherwise “free” Focaccia sliced 0.5 inches thick and bathed in a pool of Berries with Syrup plus a few dollops of Ricotta.
Reservations-requested and masks-required, thermal scanning at the Casino entrance providing an added layer of safety, it was while a drunken middle-age woman held court nearby that Brunch turned savory, two Toasts fair-to-middling while crispy Potatoes coated in $4-extra Cheese and Bacon was absolutely delicious.
Told that Eggs in Purgatory were something of a signature, though anyone familiar with Shakshouka will find this plate lacking in complexity, the safe bet with Marc Vetri was once again Pasta, the handmade Ravioli offering a good bite with bold flavor while the Bucatini is fairly basic but enjoyable.
Finishing with a Pizza that tops $30 after tax and tip, arguably the most expensive wood-fired Pie in Las Vegas, it was after settling a tab including $5 store-bough Tea Bags that guests departed sated but not full, a one-and-done experience that fell far short on dinner in terms of cost as well as creativity.
THREE STARS: Although Marc Vetri remains one of America’s greatest Italian Chefs Brunch at Osteria Fiorella seems like nothing but a money grab, though if one focuses only on sweets Pastry Chef Costa remains one of the most under-discussed talents.
RECOMMENDED: Biscuit, Giant Cinnamon Bun, Crispy Potatoes, Ravioli Tre Formaggi, Jenny’s Old School Ricotta Pie (not usually offered at Brunch.)
AVOID: Foccaccia French Toast, Eggs in Purgatory.
TIP: Dessert is not offered at Brunch.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.redrockresort.com/eat-and-drink/osteria-fiorella
