Oberlin
Brandade – Herbs, Grilled Country Bread
Grilled Kamut Flatbread – Pine Nut Caponata, Green Tomato, Charred Eggplant, Olives
Roasted Honeynut Squash – Pepita Brittle, Fennel Soubise
Crispy & Chewy Beets – Candied Seeds, Pickled Celery, Pistachio Labneh, Gremolata
Hand Rolled Cous-Cous – Butter Roasted Carrots, Preserved Lemon, Yogurt
Tajarin – House Cured Guanciale, Fennel, Fermented Chili, Heirloom Squash
Piri Piri Duck – Grilled Gnarly Vines Duck, Roasted Winter Greens, Piri Piri Sauce
Papo Secos
Caramel Apple Ice Cream / Burnt Honey Ice Cream
It was with sadness that news of Birch’s impending closure started circling the internet in Autumn, the small space simply unable to sustain COVID-19’s impact no matter how refreshing Benjamin Sukle’s cooking or the fact that many considered it to be the best Restaurant in Rhode Island.
Flash forward to late November, the pandemic at peak velocity and nearly all of Providence declining indoor dining, it was via Pre-Order through TOCK that dinner was arranged at Chef Sukle’s more casual Oberlin, though unfortunately the experience was far from perfect.
Best described as Seasonal Small Plates, a “shared” situation and thriving bar scene not in line with current precautions, things got off to an inauspicious start with Food not ready until 20-minutes after the designated time, a lack of free downtown parking necessitating meter use only to arrive home and find a whole loaf of Bread missing.
Unapologetic to either error, a simple credit remedying the absent item, it was after quickly rewarming a few small portions that dinner was underway, first bites of Brandade salty yet balanced and beautiful while the ancient-Grain Flatbread was complex and enjoyable but frankly soggy due to haphazard packaging.
Vegetable-focused across much of the menu, a theme common to Birch and Oberlin since its 2015 opening, Honeynut Squash shined bright largely on the strength of its Ingredient quality, while “Crispy & Chewy Beets” found themselves lost to Celery that even overwhelmed the included Gremolata – an unexpected imbalance carried over to housemade Cous-Cous that lacked almost any flavor once past the Roasted Carrots.
Improving with Noodles done no favors by take-out, each ribbon nonetheless offering a bit of resistance to the tooth amidst Pork, Squash and Spice, suffice it to say that a $55 half-Duck was the only item truly “sharable” by three adults, its richness countering fiery Sauce and bitter Greens before diners cooled their mouths with dueling flavors of Ice Cream.
www.oberlinrestaurant.com
