Robata En Asian Kitchen And Bar
Pickled Radish – Sesame Seed, Chives, Citrus
Jellyfish Salad – Seaweed, Scallion, Ponzu
Crispy Brussels Sprouts – Mint, Lemon Chili, Puffed Rice, Shallot
Quail Karaage – Asian Herbs, Shallot, Sweet Chili Sauce
Toro & Yuzu – Bluefin Tuna Belly, Walnuts, Raisin, Radish, Shiitake Salsa
Foie Nabe – Seared Foie Gras, Hamachi, Kinoko Koshihikari, Enoki, Onsen Egg, Crispy Chicken Skin, Negi, Dashi
Wagyu Tartare – Crème Fraiche, Grilled Pineapple, Shallot, Lemon, Negi, Onion Otap Bread
Butabara Robata – Kurobuta Pork Belly, Soy, Calamansi
Wagyu Beef Tongue Robata – Sansho Pepper, Tamari
Tsukune Robata – Grilled Chicken Meatball, Marinated Jidori Egg, Tare
Miso Buttered Corn – Soy, Miso-Harissa Aioli, Negi
Yuzu-Brined Ribs – Pickled Apples, Candied Quinoa, Nuts, Citrus Tea Glaze
Takoage – Japanese Octopus, Bamboo Shoots, Plum, Mushroom Puree, Citrus Relish
Uni Pasta – Gold Sea Urchin, Calabrian Chili, Parsley, Egg Yolk, Bottarga, Fresh Pasta
Tsokolate – Dark Chocolate, Miso, Caramel, Vanilla, Mandarin Orange
Milk & Cookies – Fresh Baked Chocolate Chip Cookies, Peanut Milk, Ube Jam
While many “foodies” may raise eyebrows at the fact that there are globe-trotting gourmands who do not regularly go out of their way for Sushi the fact remains, yet when Ramir Bolanos DeCastro announced the opening of Robata En there was reason to be excited because ever since the Chef’s days at Yonaka there has always been so much more than raw Fish and Rice.
Never actually gone from the local food scene, a rebranding of Yonaka followed by Purple Potato and its current iteration as an online Bakery, Robata En finds Chef Ramir partnered with investors in his boldest concept to date, a Spring Mountain location between Sparrow + Wolf and Lamaii that pairs minimalist décor to Food that is decidedly complex.
Offering Robatayaki as well as Sushi, plus three Omakase menus focusing on DeCastro’s unique style of “fusion,” it was at a two top in the socially distanced dining room that fourteen plates were chosen, a duo of Amuse opening the palate first with Radish brightened by acid and Salt, then a delicate Seaweed Salad.
Officially titled “Robata En Asian Kitchen And Bar,” both owners and Chef Ramir present in masks alongside an educated staff, course one was soon underway featuring Yonaka’s famous Brussels Sprouts, both texture and flavor remarkable with subtle heat that led nicely to fried Quail dressed in sweet Chili before cooling off with a generous portion of Toro complimented by Walnuts, Raisins and Mushrooms.
Treated next to two tableside presentations, a seared section of Duck Liver draped atop Rice where aromatic Broth was poured prior to mixing, suffice it to say there may be no more layered dish than this currently anywhere in Las Vegas while Wagyu Tartare also took a unique approach before things turned more traditional with three carefully grilled Skewers.
Less thrilled with Miso Buttered Corn, the season yielding bland Kernels overly-reliant on Dipping Sauce, it was as a result of Chicken being 86’d that the server up-sold Uni Pasta, the premium quality Urchin unfortunately a little overwhelmed by Fish Roe shavings and Chili, and not nearly so impressive as Yuzu-Brined Ribs that are fall-off-the-bone tender and unlike any previously tasted in terms of flavor.
Sated but not full, portions appropriate to price and quality suggesting most couples will spend upward of $120 before Drinks, tax or tip, Robata En’s most impressive savory arrived immediately prior to Dessert, a lightly-fried Octopus segment dazzling amidst earthy accoutrements and Fruit that bridged well to must-order warm Cookies and a tried-and-true Chocolate landscape.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: A substantially delayed opening thanks to COVID-19, Robata En Asian Kitchen And Bar proves worth the wait as Chef Ramir has lost none of the skills previously witnessed at Yonaka, while the space itself is elegant and nicely laid out for the current dining regulations.
RECOMMENDED: Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Quail Karaage, Foie Nabe, Wagyu Tartare, Wagyu Beef Tongue Robata, Yuzu-Brined Ribs, Takoage, Milk & Cookies.
AVOID: Miso Buttered Corn was a miss, and two menu-items 86’d for the first table of the evening suggests some inventory details need to be addressed.
TIP: Open 5:00pm to 10pm Tues, Wed, Thu and Sun. Till 11:00pm Fri + Sat. Omakase currently $195 for two people with a premium pre-order option also offered at $300 for two guests.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.robataen.com
