Suculent
Vermouth, Italian Cherry, Orange
2016 Brut Natural Cava
Olives
House Sourdough
Waldorf of Celery, Apple, Blue, Grape
Oyster, Iberico Jowl, Pistachio Cream
Croquetta of Lobster, Cuttlefish
Tomato, Water Lilly, Caper, Olive
Beets, Mandarin Pil-pil
Lobster Tartare, Chicken Skins
Almond and White Garlic Cream, Trout Roe, Apple
Baby Vegetable Tart, Roasted Garlic ‘Spread’
Tuna Belly, Cherry Tomato, Smoked Cream
Black Olive, Corn
Mushroom Carbonara
Zucchini Blossom Samosa, Lamb, Mint Yogurt
Cabbage, Herb Butter, Spicy Potatoes
Figs, Yogurt Mousse. Pistachio Cream, Pine Honey
Strawberries, Vanilla Cream, Rosewater Gelee
Brie Cheesecake, Muscat, Maria Cookie
Toqued by Antonio Romero, a graduate of the School of Hospitality Costa Azahar with subsequent stage at elBulli as well as Akelarre and Maison Pic it is surprising to many that Suculent has managed to fly underneath the Michelin radar for so long, but if dinner on the last night in Barcelona is any indication this may actually be a good thing for diners as the €75 Menu SucuXLent proved to be an unequivocal bargain for a party of two seated at the counter where they were treated to sixteen courses of innovative market-fresh cuisine paired to excellent service.
Well regarded by his peers and several well-traveled gourmands for creating a simple and honest Restaurant not far from Las Ramblas, several tourists mistakenly stopping in during service expecting another Tapas Bar kindly directed next door to Romero’s more casual La Taverna, those making reservations at Suculent are welcomed by a staff of three servers including one bilingual bartender and with the menu divided into four individual tastings tailored to the guests’ liking the decision is simply one of appetite.
Long and narrow with less than two-dozen seats, the walls of the former Cellar dark green and wood with little adornment, it is shortly after sitting down that guests are presented with a bowl of Olives alongside a stiff Cocktail of Vermouth and Fruit, the choice of a menu quickly seeing the first of several appetizers offered in the form of “Our Waldorf” featuring a crisp stalk of Celery topped with sliced Apples, Blue Cheese and Grapes.
Choosing to sip Cava along with dinner, the Chef’s description of his Food as “Produce based and focused on the pure flavor of each product” making anything dry particularly well suited to more than half of the night’s plates, it was after a brief delay during which housemade Sourdough was served that two plump Oysters draped in Pork Jowl and blanketed with Pistachio Cream were presented, the flavor fresh with tempered minerality and a smooth finish while the Croquetta was gold and crispy around a center of Cheese, Lobster and Cuttlefish.
Stepping back and forth between Spanish and Mediterranean flavors, modern technique frequently used to intensify Sauces or Stocks, it was with a refreshing Ceviche of Market Tomatoes in cryoconcentrated Water Lilly Tea that the first of four ‘Starters’ was served next, the ingredient quality readily evident just as it was in the following Salad of Beets in spicy Mandarin Broth.
Growing heavier with subsequent plates, but quick to scale back with a lighter dish after particularly intense flavors in the manner of his teachers, it was here at the third intermediate plate that Chef Romero sent out his famous whole Lobster made into Tartare and served with Chicken Skins, everything about this dish comforting yet elegant with each bite a little smaller in hopes of making it last.
Next focusing diners’ attention on Garlic, first as a fragrant Soup with Apples and Trout Roe and then with a whole Clove intended to be squeezed and smeared on flaky Vegetable Flatbread, it was after these two plates that eight squares of Tuna Belly were served between dehydrated Cherry Tomatoes with Smoked Cream, the latter not particularly necessary given the quality of the Fish but nice for adding a little dimension just the same.
Playing off the idea of Mexican Street Corn next, the apparent “char” actually a smear of Black Olive that was messy but worthwhile in adding salinity to the otherwise sweet Kernels, it was once again here that Suculent chose to show off their sourcing with several styles of foraged Mushrooms cooked tender atop Black Pepper and Cheese with grated Parmesan, the beautiful Zucchini Blossom “Samosa” to follow far lighter than one might expect for something stuffed with Lamb Sausage.
Rounding out the savories with a “Steak” of Cabbage served next to thinly sliced Fries slicked in spicy Egg Yolk, the slab of Herb Butter adding a both flavor and succulence to the tender Crucifer, it was after wiping up all the residual sauce with another slice of Bread that Dessert commenced, plates one and two focusing on the simple sweetness of Figs and Strawberries next to textural condiments while the Cheesecake was intended to be eaten by hand with the flavor of Wine and Maria Cookies making for a elegant, lingering finale.