Lapis Afghan Bistro
Mantoo Beef Dumplings – Yogurt, Yellow Split Pea and Tomato Sauce
Bolani Flat Bread – Pumpkin and Leek-Cilantro with Yogurt and Chutney
Sambrosa Trio – Philo Pastries with Shrimp with Saffron, Spinach and Beef with Onions served with Chutney
Pakowra – Gram Battered Vegetables with Chutney and Yogurt
Halwa – Semolina, Saffron, Almonds
Sheer Berenj – Rice Pudding, Cardamom, Pistachio
Sharbat – Warm Pound Cake, Orange Zest Syrup
Awarded Bib Gourmand status in the most recent Michelin Guide for Washington D.C., a designation used to recognize Restaurants where one can “enjoy two courses and a glass of Wine or Dessert (not including tax and gratuity) for less than $40,” it was for Saturday Brunch that a visit was paid to Lapis in Adams Morgan, their Afghani cuisine representing a style many Americans are likely not familiar with, though much of it is based on recipes and ingredients commonly seen in other central Asian countries.
Family owned and operated by refugees who launched their career as restaurateurs nearly fifteen years after escaping the motherland, an additional pair of European bistros giving them the financial freedom to finally pursue something much more personal at 1847 Columbia Road Northwest, guests entering Lapis after 5:30pm throughout the week will be greeted by a sizable menu of cultural favorites while those partaking in Brunch will find a slightly truncated collection plus several Euro-American carryovers plus Cocktails and bottomless Mimosas.
Not a space for those desiring to dine expeditiously, an entirely Afghani staff moving slow and deliberately in all tasks from seating to filling water and delivering plates, it was after some time perusing the options while listening to culturally appropriate music that a middle aged gentleman who appeared to be in charge arrived to jot down orders, a total of four plates arriving one after another and beginning with two crispy stacks of Flatbread, one filled with stewed Leeks and Herbs while the other tasted quite a bit like Pumpkin Pie filling.
Clearing empty dishes but not refreshing share plates between courses, only an issue in terms of the boiled Beef Dumplings which got a bit messy thanks to the soft and hearty filling plus Tomato Sauce and fragrant Yellow Peas, it was with a thud that Lapis’ Pakowras hit the table, the deep fried Fritters heavy and not particularly flavorful without the liberal addition of housemade Yogurt or fiery green Chutney.
Decorated in old family photographs and cultural artifacts, a more subdued downstairs room discovered upon visiting the restroom, it was with three Sambrosas each filled with something different that savories concluded, the Shrimp and Saffron a hand-down winner that is also offered in a boiled style like the Mantoo Beef that is considered to be a Restaurant signature.
Suggesting that “Afghans have a sweet tooth” on their Dessert menu and thus compelling a three part order, the Semolina “Halwa” bland and nowhere near as delicious as it’s Carrot based cousin seen at many Indian Restaurants, better bites were found in the Cardamom-tinged Rice Pudding as well as the housemade Poundcake, the choice to serve it warm more than welcome while the use of Orange Syrup made each bite sweet yet refreshingly vibrant.
http://www.lapisdc.com
