Duck Duck Goat
Pig Face Buns – Spicy Mustard
Ham Sui Gok – Glutenous Rice Dumplings, Goat
Goat Belly Lo Mein – Hand-pulled Noodles, Lotus, Bok Choy, Bell Pepper, Bean Shoots, Carrots
Mango Coconut Cloud – Coconut Sponge Cake, Mango, Dragon Fruit, Kiwi
Almond Tofu – Candied Almonds, Black Vinegar Sauce
Almond Cookie
In some ways a product of much that is unpleasant about Food today, reality Television launching her career and menus often accusable of cultural appropriation, Stephanie Izard has nonetheless managed to capture the attention of Chicagoans and traveling gourmands thanks to a unique ability to produce enormous flavors that remain enjoyable, her latest effort entitled Duck Duck Goat carrying on that tradition with tongue-in-cheek “reasonably authentic” Chinese Cuisine.
Located at 857 West Fulton Market, a hip area having grown tremendously since Chef Izard opened Girl & The Goat nearly eight years to the day prior, Duck Duck Goat resides across from the gussied up Kuma’s Corner and down the way from Roister, a 4:30pm nightly opening joined by popular Dim Sum Brunch on Sundays though this particular visit saw the space mostly empty due to hot weather and a malfunctioning air conditioner.
Without doubt an attractive space, the foyer opening to lanterns, gates and padded stools with banquets lining several more-intimate rooms on the sides it was upon seating next to three self-professed “foodies” talking loudly about boys and work that the temperature issue was immediately noticed, a cold glass of Water drained quickly and the decision made to order plate-by-plate while gauging hunger proving wise as only the succulent Pig Face Buns were eaten before requesting a move outside.
Happy with the first bites of crisp-gives-way-to-fat and acknowledging the server had no control over temperatures, his understanding and willingness to split time between inside and out commendable even when a lack of cover on the patio necessitated further movement to avoid the sun, it was as people passed by that a second trio arrived featuring ground Goat inside fried Glutenous Rice, the texture more than “reasonably” authentic and filling delicious thanks to a complex blend of Spices.
Debating spicier options but finding it difficult to get excited about Szechuan anything at 90ᵒF and over 70% humidity it was based on a promise of “they’re my favorite dish” that a small-ish Bowl of Noodles was presented slicked in Soy with tender cuts of Meat amidst Wok-fried Vegetables, the price no doubt more than a double portion would be in Chinatown but the bite-for-bite result worthwhile.
Ending the meal – and this trip to Chicago – on a high note, unsolicited advice from the server again spot-on, it was passing up Shaved Ice and Donuts that two Puddings were presented, the “Almond Tofu” essentially Panna Cotta with a savory slant and textural elements while its competition truly was cloud-like in its support for what is essentially Tres Leches Cake flanked by Tropical Fruit.
www.duckduckgoatchicago.com
