Bavel
Duck ‘Nduja Hummus – Creamy Garbanzo Beans, Jerusalem Mix Spice, Herbs, Pita
Foie Gras Halva – Creamy Pate, Date Puree, Black Sesame, Buckwheat Loaf
Marinated Tomato – Whipped Feta, Smoked Eggplant Powder, Savory, Sea Salt, Olive Oil
Grilled Octopus – Orange infused Yogurt, Sumac, Purslane, Dried Bell Pepper, Sungold Tomatoes, Chervil
Malawach – Ancient Grain Crispy Layered Bread, Grated Tomato, Dill Crème Fraiche, Aged Egg, Strawberry Zhoug
Slow Roasted Lamb Neck Shawarma – Tahini, Amba, Pickled Beets, Pickled Radishes, Pickled Cabbage, Laffa
Aged Half Duck – Breast Kebab, Confit Leg, Green Amba, Duck Bone Broth, Chicory Salad
Rose Clove Chocolate Donuts – Bar Au Chocolate Ganache, Sherry Diplomat Cream
Strawberry Sumac & Sweet Cheese Pastry – Pistachio Ice Cream, Labneh Cream, Cured Sumac
Cardamom Apple Prune Cake – Date Toffee Sauce, Cream
With the ongoing success of Bestia Chef Ori Menashe had little to prove when he began planning Bavel, but from the stunning space to bold flavors that take Middle Eastern food in unexpected directions he has once again struck gold, reservations going fast and fashionistas lining up for walk-in seats while both local and national press sing the Restaurant’s praises.
Located in a converted warehouse downtown, the nearby 4th Street Bridge and chain-link fences indicative of an area that does not look to have been all that inviting in the recent past, it was moments prior to 5pm that a party of seven arrived to the sounds of staff chanting rhythmically behind closed doors, a lone hostess soon emerging and proceeding with the disorganized seating process that sees those with and without reservations slowly moving forward until all seats are filled both indoors and out.
Predictably loud even by Los Angeles standards, the high ceilings lined with innumerable air plants ricocheting voices elevated by Cocktails and Wine, guests outdoors are thankfully spared some volume in favor of blasting heaters that many will wish to have turned off, the staff not only accommodating but surprisingly well-informed regarding techniques and Ingredients used in the kitchen.
Broad scope but not over-reaching in terms of menu, Menashe and Pastry Chef Genevieve Gergis possessing a distinct style that makes Bavel more “theirs” than actually “Middle Eastern,” it is with Mezze including airy Hummus centered by housemade ‘Duck ‘Nduja’ that most tables get started, the Pita inflated and yeasty while toasted Buckwheat Bread presented alongside a photogenic smear of Foie Gras with dots of Date Puree also attests to a technically proficient Baker.
Not a cheap Restaurant, $15 for what amounts to two medium-sized Tomatoes amidst creamy Cheese and not much else likely to raise some eyebrows, it is in much more appropriate that tender Octopus arrives amidst Tomatoes of its own for $21, the citrusy Yogurt beneath cleverly juxtaposed against dehydrated Peppers and a variety of Herbs.
Showing off another style of Bread with “Malawach,” crispy strips cut and intended to be smeared with what amounts to a Century Egg and tangy Crème Fraiche infused with Yemeni Hot Sauce, it was after this that share plates were reset in anticipation of Entrees, the signature Lamb Neck Shawarma an undeniable stunner whether eaten as Protein on its own or with accoutrements atop yet another Middle-Eastern loaf called Laffa while the $38 Duck actually feels like a bargain considering the quality of both confit Leg and roasted Breast served on a sword atop Chicories.
Amused to see all kitchen staff clad in Menashe’s famous bandana, the open space teaming with action and more than capable of turning out a four course meal in ninety minutes, it was with nothing but a few Duck Bones returning to the back that Chef Gergis took center stage, her “Rose Clove Chocolate Donuts” airy like Beignets and exemplary whether dipped in Chocolate or Sherry Diplomat Cream while a baked pocket of Strawberry and Cream Cheese ate much like an Empanada, the far more interesting finisher described as Cardamom Apple Prune Cake essentially Sticky Toffee Pudding with bold aromatics and plenty of Cream to offset exceedingly sweet Date Caramel.
www.baveldtla.com
