Restaurante Tordesilhas
Forro du Caju Amigo – Handmade Cachaca, Cashew Juice, Cashew Jam, Cashew Syrup
Zucchini Chips
Comissão de Frente – Pastries filled with Shrimp, Marinade of Brazilian Zucchini, Special Cheese with Sugar Cane Honey, Jerked Beef with Butter, Manioc Flour
Tacacá – Exotic Amazonian Broth prepared with Tucupi, Jambu, Tapioca, Dried Shrimp
Bolinho de Pirarucu e Conserva do Zé Lima – Pirarucu Balls, Homemade Lime Preserves
Bobozinho de Camarão – Shrimp in Manioc Cream, Coconut Milk, Manioc Flour, Tapioca
Cocada de Tabuleiro com Sorvete de Tapiocae Calda de Tamarindo – Flat Coconut Cake, Tapioca Ice Cream, Tamarind Sauce
Pavê de Chocolate com Café e Cristais de Pimenta-de-cheiro – Chocolate with Coffee Mousse, Crunch Biscuit, Crystallized Chili Pepper
Named for a city in Spain where the treaty defining areas of dominion of overseas territories between Portugal and Spain was signed, Tordesillas has been serving São Paulo for over 28 years, and focusing on everything from daily favorites to celebration plates the Restaurante offers visitors a glimpse into Brazil’s culinary traditions.
Located at Alameda Tiête 489 inside what appears to be a former residence, Chef Mara Salles bringing an artisan approach to plates seasonal yet storied, it is immediately upon seating that diners will notice small bowls of Zucchini Chips alongside small bottles, the latter containing housemade fermented Peppers that are anything but mild.
More diverse than many of Brazil’s fine dining menus, several items offered in half-portions allowing even solo diners an opportunity to sample broadly, it was after questions were answered by English-fluent staff that an order was placed, assertions that four plates were “too much” quickly disproven and even allowing capacity for a pair of Desserts.
Built on the investigation of Brazilian techniques and Ingredients, a belief “that tradition is the base for innovation” fueling Chef Salles’ attempt to push boundaries while still honoring the past, it is with a quartet of Appetizers that most guests will choose to begin, everything basic but enjoyable and highlighted by tender cubes of Beef with Butter and Onions that can be augmented for texture by a side of Manioc Flour.
Serving several styles of Cachaca from the Bar, a housemade version the base of “Forro du Caju Amigo” which is both creamy and intensely sweet, it was with the Restaurant less than 1/8 full that course two came quickly, the northern Soup known as Tacacá still boiling hot and vibrant with Tucupi and Jambu fortified by River Shrimp, the extract of Manioc Root strongly acidic to the point where even a small bowl left the mouth tingling as if exposed to Novocain.
Treated next of fried Pirarucu, an enormous River Fish whose delicate flavors paired nicely to citrusy Pickles, it was on the server’s recommendation that “Bobozinho de Camarão” rounded out savories, a texture not dissimilar to Panang Curry here less heated with a multitude of flavors built around Shellfish.
Slow to receive Dessert, though resting amidst Tordesillas’ homey décor is anything but unpleasant, it was after perhaps twenty minutes that two plates arrived simultaneously, the Chocolate Cake with Coffee, spice and what seemed to be Apple Compote decidedly unique while warm Coconut Cake with thick Ice Cream and Tamarind Sauce defined “ugly delicious.”
www.tordesilhas.com
