Endo Edibles

August 3, 2013
8:30 AM
by: Uhockey

Sunny Point Cafe & Bakery, Asheville NC

Sunny Point Café

Buttermilk Biscuit

Blueberry Cream Cheese Bread Pudding French Toast with Vanilla Anglaise and Whipped Cream

Carrot Cake Pancake with Cardamom Cream Cheese Icing

Iced Coffee

Griddled Peach Poundcake with Raspberry Sauce and Whipped Cream

Pecan Brioche Cinnamon Roll

Suffice it to say that no matter how much I’d read about the family owned and operated Sunny Point Café nothing had prepared me for what I would find early Saturday morning, the large culinary garden in full bloom, children playing on the restaurant’s playground, and families waiting in line with nary a parking space to be found thus relegating me to a space down the block which afforded me a long, pleasant walk through the aforementioned gardens. Thankfully with a full day’s agenda leading to an early arrival it would not be long before the doors to the space opened and seated with the first group of the day at a cozy booth near a pair of regulars I perused the menu, a dozen or so items catching my eye with half portions thankfully available for many of them and ‘to go’ options for others allowing me to select five. Featuring a cute and whimsical interior with a staff to match my meal began with a glass of iced coffee refilled so frequently that I actually had to ask my server to hold off and with my primary plate competing for time with the rest of the patrons my meal began with a pair of appetizers – the first a flaky and immense biscuit rife with buttermilk notes and paired with butter and housemade blueberry preserves and the second a toothsome carrot cake flapjack topped with cream cheese icing and pure maple syrup. Moving next to the main course it was with good fortune that one of the daily specials was so many of my favorite things wrapped into one as day old slices of housemade brioche found new life in the form of densely saturated bread pudding subsequently griddled and topped with fresh berries from the garden, house made whipped cream, and extra anglaise for good measure – every aspect of this plate and the experience as a whole an impetus to order more but my schedule dictating the rest be to go – a dense piece of pound cake teaming with peaches and an almost impossibly buttery cream cheese frosted pecan roll proving a more than adequate snack en route back to Knoxville.

http://sunnypointcafe.com/

Posted in Asheville, Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, North Carolina, Pancakes, Sunny Point Cafe & Bakery, Sunny Point Cafe and Bakery, Vacation

August 2, 2013
9:35 PM
by: Uhockey

Seven Sows Bourbon and Larder, Asheville NC

Seven Sows Bourbon and Larder

Bufala Negra – Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Fresh Basil, Aged Balsamic, Fever Tree Ginger Ale, Simple Syrup

Hush Puppies – Hot Pimento Cheese

Chicken Cracklins- Texas Pete Aioli

Sweetbreads – Franks Buffalo Sauce, Raw Vegetables, Maytag Bleu Crème Fraiche, Stout Reduction

Pig Tongue Agnolotti – Heritage Chesire Pig, Charred Onions, Summer Mushroom, Looking Glass Swiss, Natural Jus

Fried Chicken – Buttermilk Fried Leg, Breast, Thigh, Country Ham Mac n’ Cheese, Giblet Egg Gravy

Lily Duke’s Butterscotch Pudding with Molasses, Whipped Cream, Sugar Cookie, Peanut Butter Fudge

Vanilla Bean Poundcake with Huckleberry Filling, Chantilly Cream, Lemon Blackberry, Mint

A relatively new spot in downtown Asheville, Seven Sows Bourbon and Larder was recommended to me by a friend and with a limited number of days in the city I decided to make a late stop for what I’d assumed would be a few snacks and a cocktail but what inevitably turned into a full meal after perusing the menu and speaking with Chef McMillan who happened to be out speaking to a party of heavily inebriated guests on a relatively slow night for the kitchen, though the bar was hopping. A large space with a lot of reclaimed wood, concrete floors, and high ceilings the food at Seven Sows reflected the rustic feel of the space by focusing on local farmers and traditional recipes slightly modernized or reinterpreted and beginning with a hefty pour of Buffalo Trace finding new light in balsamic and basil the meal started fried and spicy with tender cornmeal hushpuppies alongside fiery chicken skins and continued likewise into a pile of fried sweetbreads with smooth viscera amidst crisp breading and a dousing of hot sauce that begged for forgiveness in the form of thick bleu cheese. At this point fully anticipating a difficult night’s sleep given the heft and the heat of the cuisine things took an interesting twist with the inspired and brilliantly smoky agnolotti before finally progressing to tried and true fried chicken – perfect and tender with thin sage and buttermilk breading beneath a drizzle of rich gravy. Savories savored and never one to pass on desserts despite being quite happily sated it was with great joy that the dessert menu would prove equally nostalgic as the rest of the experience and unable to decide which sounded best I asked my server to decide between the pudding or the poundcake – her suggestion being the poundcake but the kitchen sending out both it and the pudding gratis; both excellent but the griddled cake definitely the more inspired as reduced huckleberries oozed from the buttery center, blending with the light cream.

http://sevensows.com/

Posted in Asheville, Dessert, Food, North Carolina, Pork, Seven Sows Bourbon and Larder, Sweetbreads, Vacation

August 2, 2013
5:01 PM
by: Uhockey

The Admiral, Asheville NC

The Admiral

Buttermilk Fried Quail – Purple Potato Salad, Compressed Watermelon, Texas Pete Syrup, Celery Salad

Roman Gnocchi – Grilled Octopus, Pecorino, Bagna Cauda, Kale Chips

Sweetbreads – Baked Juusto Cheese, Caramelized Peach, Honey-Sesame Gastrique, Smoked Almond

House Smoked Duck – Roasted Poblano Coulis, Smoked Fingerlings, Blackberry Marmalade, Salty Peanuts, Fennel Salad

Chocolate Semifreddo with Cocoa Chantilly, Peanut Butter Ganache, Peanuts, Maraschino Cherry Reduction / Seared Blueberries and Plums, Short Dough, Candied Pistachio, Basil Ice Cream, Sweet Egg Yolk / Coconut Brulee with Coconut Leche and Sea Salt

Located in an unassuming cinderblock building and every bit as divey as some of the bars in the small northwest Ohio town where I grew up one could say that the team at The Admiral achieved their goal of creating “an unexpected restaurant that thrived on its talent and creativity” simply by the fact that there were folks lined up to dine there the moment the doors opened at 5:00pm but emerging from the small restaurant after a five course meal approximately 90 minutes later I’ll also note that the line was far too short because in places like New York or San Francisco people would be arriving an hour early to experience Ivan Candido’s cuisine and the restaurant’s unexpectedly excellent service. Beginning with fried quail paired with a veritable summer cookout of sides and progressing through bits of gnocchi and pieces of octopus nearly equal in tenderness beneath a veil of briny bagna cauda the meal started off beautifully and remained on course through tender, creamy sweetbreads finding their foil in sweet peaches and honey before culminating in an immense leg of crispy duck standing erect alongside smoke and sweet, aromatic and salty – a progression of savories on par with some of the best I’ve had this year and a good sign of the trio of desserts that would follow, each impeccably balanced and even the brulee far more interesting than would be expected, a pure coconut flavor without pronounced sweetness punctuated by the salted caramelized coconut top.

http://theadmiralnc.com/

Posted in Asheville, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, North Carolina, Octopus, Sweetbreads, The Admiral, Vacation

August 2, 2013
1:07 PM
by: Uhockey

World’s Best Carrot Cake, Asheville NC

World’s Best Carrot Cake

Carrot Cake

Gluten Free Chocolate Carrot Cake

More than a little out of the way up in the town of Woodfin there is a small counter and a large kitchen claiming to produce the best carrot cake in the world – a claim so bold that they actually named the store and the website “World’s best carrot cake,” obviously necessitating a visit. A family run business from the kitchen to the counter with carrot cakes of all sizes and shapes, gluten free, vegan, or organic my arrival at the small shop was on a Friday afternoon and with no slices available I thus opted for an organic carrot cupcake I was assured was ‘every bit as good’ as the real deal and wanting to see what else the bakery could do I also picked up a gluten free chocolate carrot cupcake to go. The Verdict – good but not the best largely because as much as I enjoyed the density of the moist cake I personally found the hefty vanilla notes used in the cream cheese frosting to be a bit distracting, masking the subtle savory notes of the walnuts and carrots rather than highlighting them and, to that end, I actually preferred the chocolate version simply for doing something interesting, the carrot s making the cocoa a bit more earthy and robust while the walnut studded cream cheese icing added sweetness without being pronouncedly sugary. Obviously subjective, but for my dining dollar the best carrot cake still resides at Pattycake Vegan in Columbus and for something a little more dressed up you’d be hard pressed to find one better than DW Bistro Las Vegas.

http://www.worldsbestcarrotcake.com/

Posted in Asheville, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, North Carolina, Vacation, World’s Best Carrot Cake

August 2, 2013
11:14 AM
by: Uhockey

Double D’s Coffee and Desserts, Asheville NC

Double D’s Coffee and Desserts

Iced Coffee

Embracing its ‘oddities’ as much as Portland embraces being ‘weird,’ Asheville really outdid itself when it came up with a dine-in Double Decker Bus that serves coffee, espresso, cappuccino, lattes, hot chocolate, teas, smoothies, shakes, desserts, and “free hugs” – the first being the only thing I sampled during my visit, but with beans from Counter Culture an excellent choice to enjoy with a few items from Karen Donatelli while people watching in downtown Asheville. With great service from competent baristas, free wi-fi, an eclectic clientele of folks hanging around both on the bus and on the patio, plus surprisingly comfortable seating and ‘chalkboard’ tables upstairs I’m really not sure how someone couldn’t love such a quirky concept.

http://doubledscoffee.com/

Posted in Asheville, Coffee, Double D’s, Double D’s Coffee and Desserts, North Carolina, Vacation

August 2, 2013
11:00 AM
by: Uhockey

Curate, Asheville NC

Curate

Lardo and Paprika Crostini

Brandade

Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

Chicken Croquettes

Eggplant with Local Honey and Rosemary

Pistachio Cake with Blueberry, Lemon Thyme Ice Cream

Were it not for GQ I’d have never guessed that there was a young American woman turning out impeccable authentic Spanish tapas in Asheville North Carolina but having read the article and investigating a little further her small restaurant, Curate, immediately climbed to the top of my ‘must visit’ list – and really, to those who don’t know the story I’d strongly suggest checking out the “About” section on the restaurant’s website. A family run affair with ties to both Jose Andres and the team at El Bulli the layout of Curate is rather simple with a large marble bar lining the open kitchen up front and a small, heavily wooded seating area in back – my lunch taking place at the former by choice so that I could watch Chef Button and her team work first hand on a collection of thirty or so plates as the restaurant slowly filled to capacity. A lively space, with excellent service my meal consisted of a half dozen items and beginning with eight pieces of crispy bread draped with lardo onward to supple pork meatballs in spicy tomato sauce and then transitioning to some of the most creamy brandade I’ve ever experienced the meal was largely excellent, only the oily overly salted croquettes anything less than I’d have expected given the chef’s pedigree – a small aberration I was happy to forgive moments later when crispy, thin eggplant drizzled in honey arrived followed by a light sponge of pistachio topped with whole pistachios, a dense cake of the same, and local blueberries both raw and cooked all brought to a bright, herbal exclamation point by Lemon-Thyme ice cream.

http://www.curatetapasbar.com/

Posted in Asheville, Curate, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, North Carolina, Pork, Vacation

August 2, 2013
9:35 AM
by: Uhockey

Karen Donatelli Bakery, Asheville NC

Karen Donatelli Bakery

Almond Croissant

Berries n’ Cream Brest

Chocolate Chip Cookie

Apple Tart, Sour Cherry and Almond Cream Tart, Blueberry Peach Tart

Thoroughly underwhelmed by Over Easy Café I next made my way to Karen Donatelli Bakery, a short walk through downtown Asheville that not only led me past a number of really interesting stores I’d later visit, but one that led me to the best bakery I visited during my ten days in Knoxville/Asheville/Charleston/Savannah/Atlanta and in all reality, one of the best I’ve been to in the United States. An elegant space, large with seating up front plus three pastry cases and a demonstration/prep kitchen in back, I was greeted soon after entry by a young server and after perusing the options I selected a half dozen items, the croissant and the cookie still warm and thus eaten immediately, with the others saved for later. Speaking to the quality of the goods, it may sound like hyperbole, but to call Ms. Donatelli’s Almond Croissant ‘one of’ the best I’ve had is probably an undersell as it may have just been the best with a crisp, well layered shell giving way to a cavernous wispy interior free of frangipane and instead studded with pure almond paste; it was good enough that I immediately purchased a second that proved almost as good six hours later when enjoyed next to the lovely choux based brest, another ‘best of’ contender with thinly sliced fresh strawberries sandwiched between berry and vanilla cream layers that melted on the tongue while the delicate pastry gave way with a light, buttery finish. Not forgetting the cookie which was rich, golden, and still soft from the oven when I enjoyed it but moving last to a trio of small tarts, if there were any doubts at this point about Donatelli and her team they were completely erased by the three buttery shells each filled with lacquered custard and fresh berries – the cherry almond version particularly memorable with a silken texture dotted by tiny, explosive bits of sweetness that made me regret not having purchased a larger size.

http://www.donatellicakedesigns.com/

Posted in Asheville, Breakfast, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Karen Donatelli, Karen Donatelli Bakery, North Carolina, Vacation

August 2, 2013
8:00 AM
by: Uhockey

Over Easy Cafe, Asheville NC

Over Easy Café

Lavender French Toast

Single Pancake

Biscuit with Jam

Located on Broadway and filled to capacity within moments of opening I discovered very quickly that folks in Asheville take their brunch quite seriously when I arrived at Over Easy Café on Friday morning. A small space with a soundtrack befitting the hip, young, and tattooed servers (and patrons) featuring a rotating menu seasonally updated favorites focused on supporting local farmers and growers it would not take me long to identify the objects of my desire and with orders placed I sat and enjoyed a cup of Mountain Air Roasting Coffee (black as Stevia was the only artificial sweetener available) until my first item arrived in the form of a soft, flaky buttermilk biscuit from a local bakery called Annie’s paired with thick, seeded raspberry jam. A good biscuit, but somewhat disappointing in that the item was not made in house, the subsequent selections would prove competent, if not wowing, in the form of a single pancake and the restaurant’s signature Lavender French toast, each paired with real maple syrup and the griddled challah from Annie’s obviously the more interesting of the two, though nowhere near as custard soaked as I’d have preferred and thus ‘bready’ at its core; an issue remedied somewhat by the copious accoutrement of vanilla lavender yogurt, granola, bananas, and aforementioned syrup.

http://overeasyasheville.com/

Posted in Asheville, Breakfast, Coffee, Food, French Toast, North Carolina, Over Easy Cafe, Pancakes, Vacation

August 1, 2013
7:37 PM
by: Uhockey

Blackberry Farm, Walland TN

Blackberry Farm

Farmstead Firecracker – Blackberry Farm Strawberry Jam, Light Rum, Garden Mint, Jalapeno, Ginger, Lemon Lime Soda

Spring Onion Brioche, Honey Wheat Whole Grain, Butter, Brebis Chive Cream Cheese Spread

Egg Yolk, Caviar, Crème Fraiche Panna Cotta, Chives, Potato Chip, Flowering Blossom

Bean and Cucumber Salad – Pole beans, blackberries, Pickled Onions, Mint, Cucumber Emulsion

Hearth Fried Farm Egg – Fried Egg, Chicken Cracklins’, Watercress, Garlic Confit, Chili Oil

North Carolina Mountain Trout – Garden Tomatoes, Cornbread, Wax Bean, Basil

Grilled Peking Duck Breast – Garden Beets, Bacon Braised Cabbage, Arugula, Honey Duck Jus

Painted Hills Beef – Buttermilk Potatoes, Carrots, Roasted Onion, King Trumpet Mushrooms

Marinated Blackberry Farm Feta, Tomato Consomme, Basil Granita

Praline Crumble, local peaches, bourbon infused crème anglaise

Farmstead Brebis Semifreddo – Blackberry Paper, Peaches in forms, Corn Flour Crumbs, Sweet Pesto

Caramel Macaron

Located in Walland, amidst the Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee, Blackberry Farm is an icon of American Luxury – a Relais & Chateax property with true sense of history that every single employee on the 4,200 acre estate will be happy to share with you as you tour the grounds by foot, golf cart, or private car. To those who know, in addition to being a beautiful resort full of bucolic scenery, outdoor activities, and zen-like quiet Blackberry Farm is also a dining destination – dinner in The Barn a jacket-required affair focused on locally sourced proteins and produce, antique linens, china, and silver, plus lavish service befitting the formal environs to all who stay at the resort and a limited number of persons not taking up residence on the property each night, myself the only one on a Thursday in early August when I sat down for Chef Joseph Lenn’s nightly tasting menu. A lovely space with high ceilings and a personal escort to and from The Barn a pure focus on the food served at Blackberry Farm that evening would fall far short of the experience of place because although each item served was perfectly prepared and made of the highest quality ingredients none save for the impeccable Brebis dessert and a perfectly prepared piece of trout stood out from the pack as particularly ‘memorable’ and focusing on precision as opposed to innovation much of the food was nothing one couldn’t find at a local farm-to-table restaurant, though I’m certain this was not the case when the restaurant opened so many years ago. A magical place well worth its destination status for dinner or an extended stay, go early for tea and cookies in the main house and stay late for toasted marshmallows and s’mores, and don’t forget to wander the grounds absorbing the history and serenity.

http://www.blackberryfarm.com/

Posted in Blackberry Farm, Bread Basket, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, Knoxville, Macaroon, Tasting Menu, Tennessee, Vacation, Walland

August 1, 2013
1:29 PM
by: Uhockey

Tupelo Honey Cafe, Knoxville TN

Tupelo Honey Cafe

Coffee

Biscuit with Blueberry Jam

Blueberry Granola Pancake

Sweet Potato Pancake

With plans to visit the original Tupelo Honey Café in Asheville a few days later with my family I simply couldn’t resist the opportunity to see the Knoxville location after lunch at The Tomato Head proved memorable only in its mediocrity – surely a visit to one of the South’s most well-known institutions of scratch-made classics and innovative takes on comfort food would help redeem the afternoon, particularly given the off-hour, zero wait time, and renowned southern hospitality which was evident the second I walked in the door to the tune of “How ya’ll doing?” A large restaurant, much brighter than the original as I would soon find out, I was offered my choice of seats and subsequently greeted by a friendly young lady I explained that the menu was not really necessary as coffee and a short stack of each pancake would suffice – an order she would suggest as ‘a lot of food,’ but one I assured her would be fine along with one of Tupelo’s famous buttermilk biscuits, though it took restraint to decline a second of the dense, flaky, golden beauties. Moving past the biscuits but keeping the signature honey with which it came it would not be long before the hubcap sized pancakes arrived and with the Blueberry version rich with buttermilk and crunchy with maple granola only improved by a liberal application of real maple syrup it was the signature sweet potato version that truly wowed, a hefty aroma of cinnamon amongst the soft and buttery crumb and topped with sugared pecans plus a lacquer of honey – the later at the recommendation of my server from whom I received a high five when both plates returned to the kitchen empty.

http://tupelohoneycafe.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Breakfast, Coffee, Food, Knoxville, Pancakes, Tennessee, Tupelo Honey Cafe, Vacation

August 1, 2013
12:38 PM
by: Uhockey

The Tomato Head, Knoxville TN

The Tomato Head

Basil, Tomato, Cheese Slice and Gorgonzola, Walnut Slice

Peach Cobbler

Vegan Peach Muffin

Per the story on the menu, The Tomato Head was originally planned as a French Bistro but somewhere along the way pizza became the focus and the crowds followed – enough to make the large restaurant on Market Square one of Knoxville’s most well regarded restaurants, enough to spawn a second location, and enough to put the locally-sourced and house-made focused spot on my dining agenda during a quick stop in the city. Heavy in wood and friendly in service with a wide variety of baked goods, sandwiches, soups, pizzas, and more on the menu plus an order/pay-up-front counter with ample seating for those waiting for their food it would not be long after arrival that my savories and sweets were placed before me simultaneously and a bit flustered as I watched my ice cream melt over the hot cobbler I tasted the pizza, instantly deciding the better part of valor would be to eat the cobbler as both slices were bland and underflavored with a crust equal to many high school cafeterias and cheese perhaps worse. Pizza an unmitigated disaster and thus largely uneaten at approximately $2.50 a slice both desserts would prove vastly superior largely based on the quality of the fresh peaches, a light poppyseed biscuit and ice cream providing depth of flavor and texture to the cobbler and excellent buttercream topping off a muffin literally wet with fruit but not overly sweet.

http://www.thetomatohead.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Knoxville, Pizza, Tennessee, The Tomato Head, Tomato Head, Vacation

July 15, 2013
5:42 PM
by: Uhockey

Pizzeria Ortica, Costa Mesa CA

Pizzeria Ortica

Pork belly butter, tomato conserva, crostini

Ricotta gnocchi, marinara, Parmigiano Reggiano

D.O.P. MARGHERITA – San Marzano tomatoes, imported buffalo mozzarella, basil

Budino di Cioccolato – Chocolate crème layered with caramel

Babà al rhum – Rum soaked brioche

From Chef David Myers, Pizzeria Ortica seemed an odd concept to me given the chef’s training under Boulud and Trotter, but given the close proximity to my hotel, a good meal at Comme Ca in the past, and relatively strong word of mouth I decided to make the Anton Boulevard restaurant my last stop en route to the airport, arriving literally as the hostess opened the doors for dinner service. Arriving as the first patron of the evening and in actuality the only patron for my first thirty minutes in the restaurant it should be no surprise that service was outstanding and as some of the staff watched a soccer match on the television behind the bar I dined on five plates that were in many ways every bit as good as anything I’ve experienced at any similar American Pizzeria/Trattoria. Beginning first with a jar of ‘pork belly butter’ that is every bit as heavy as it sounds – essentially braised, confited, and shredded pork belly served with bright tomatoes and buttered bread – and moving on to a small plate of tender gnocchi simply adorned with basil and San Marzano marinara both appetizers would prove excellent. Progressing next to the restaurant’s focus, specifically the DOP Margherita hot and bubbling from the oven, all I can say is that do date I’ve not experienced a pie quite like Ortica – the edges charred, the center expectedly wet, and the toppings all excellent but the crust thin, springy, and crisp at the edges like that from a gas fired oven yet featuring pleasant smoky notes from almond wood firing. An impressive display of savories, dessert would prove equal to the competition and unable to choose just one in the setting of Baba and Budino I opted for both – the budino good but not particularly ‘special’ while the Baba was dense with rum, resting on a base of Chantilly cream and topped with a scoop of intense vanilla bean gelato – in my opinion an upgrade on a classic; something that is never an easy task.

http://www.ortica.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Costa Mesa, Dessert, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Italian, Orange County, Pizza, Pizzeria Ortica, Pork, Vacation

July 15, 2013
8:27 AM
by: Uhockey

Plum’s Cafe and Catering, Costa Mesa CA

Plum’s Café and Catering

Dutch Baby – Skillet Baked with Powdered Sugar and Lemon

Blueberry Almond Bread Pudding French Toast

Apparently a twenty year Orange County staple for breakfast, brunch, and lunch I’d be lying if I said I knew anything about the restaurant before it was recommended to me as a “great” breakfast spot by a young woman at Sidecar Doughnuts and Coffee, “the Dutch Baby is soooo good” sealing the deal along with a convenient location just down the street. A surprisingly large space tucked back in a small strip mall and thus actually a great place for al fresco dining I found the restaurant approximately a quarter full on arrival and after greetings from a smiling server my order was placed – one Dutch baby with a quoted 20 minute preparation time and three slices of dense, creamy bread pudding pan seared to toasty on the exterior and topped with fresh blueberries and almond crème anglaise a more than suitable warm-up that I was happy to slowly enjoy until the pancake arrived in all of its crisp, light, and golden excess – a perfect rendition of a dish far too seldom seen.

http://plumscafe.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, California, Costa Mesa, Food, French Toast, Orange County, Pancakes, Plum's Cafe, Plum's Cafe and Catering, Vacation

July 15, 2013
7:26 AM
by: Uhockey

85 Degrees Bakery, Irvine CA

85 Degrees

Mochi Egg Tart

Almond Croissant

Cream Cheese Brioche

Maple Toast

Raisin milk bread

Ice Sea Salt Coffee

Marble Taro Bread

Blueberry Half Moon Cake

Another ‘can’t miss’ stop according to people I trust my visit to 85 Degrees in the early morning hours on Monday proved fortuitous in that it was not only close to the hotel, but also in that my arrival coincided with the vast majority of the items just coming out from the kitchen; a situation that combined with exceedingly low prices and led to blatant over-ordering thus allowing me to taste a lot of interesting items I may have otherwise passed up. Vaguely aware of some of the must have items including the maple toast and sea salt coffee my other decisions were largely based on recommendations from an elderly pair of regulars who arrived just before me, their suggestions confirmed by the young man at the register who additionally sold me on the marble taro bread that had yet to come from the kitchen but that he promised to bring to my table as soon as it was ready…a mere five minutes later along with the coffee. Speaking to the selections made, all sampled fresh with some leftovers saved for later, it was expected that not every item would wow but in reality the only choices I did not care for were the overly tangy cream cheese brioche and merely average almond croissant while the other five items all proved quite delicious, particularly the aforementioned marble bread with a supple crumb intertwined with dense pockets of sweet taro and the moon cake with a lovely angelfood texture surrounding a ribbon of blueberry filling and subtle coconut tones, both truly unique, though I’d be remiss not to also mention the sweet crunch of the maple toast which pairs so elegantly with the creamy and oddly satisfying saline tones of the infamous iced coffee.

http://www.85cafe.us/

Posted in 85 Degrees, 85 Degrees Bakery, 85C, 85C Bakery, Breakfast, California, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Irvine, Orange County, Vacation

July 14, 2013
7:46 PM
by: Uhockey

Marche Moderne, Costa Mesa CA

Marche Moderne

Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos Aszu 2001

Baguette and Whole Wheat with Salted Butter

Soft Shell Crab En Saison – Beignet of Fleur de Courgette, Armagnac Jus, Chicken Chicharron

Beignets of Fleur de Courgette – Emulsion yaourt et basilica, mozzarella, fennel pollen, lemon Mosto

Between Grilled Cheese and Croque Monsieur + Truffle Scented, Tomato Soup – Comte du Jura 24m, Beemster Grand Cru 26m, King cut Gruyere 18m, Tomato Soup

Bouillabaisse with Olive Tapenade, Eggplant Caviar, Fennel, Roasted Potatoes, Tomate Roti, Rouget, Saint Pierre, Dorade, Rascasse, Seppia, Octopus, Clams, Shrimp. Side of Rouille, Crouton, Tomato Tartare, Fennel Pollen, Lemon Garlic

Duck Breast with Roasted Fitzgerald Peach and Nectarine, Ruby Port Foam, Madeira Jus, Duck Chicharon Roasted Beets

Lemon Gateau Basque, Lavender Mousseline, Cassis Gelato

Traditionally weary of ‘mall restaurants,’ though conceding that two of New York’s best are located in the Time Warner Center my decision to visit South Coast Plaza’s Marche Moderne was largely influenced by two things – location and a seasonal promotion featuring traditional bouillabaisse with all fish flown in fresh from the south of France; the fact that a friend was happy to accompany to the meal in order to sample more of the menu an additional perk. Featuring a large space with a dark wood interior juxtaposing an open kitchen plus an ‘outdoor’ patio my friend and I opted for a seat on the cusp largely due to the high noise level within and with service competent though rather restrained our meal began with good drinks from a surprisingly diverse menu but rather dry, uninspired bread service as we awaited our appetizers – a trio that included a clever but overpriced grilled cheese sandwich, oily and limp but admittedly interesting stuffed squash blossoms, and a fried softshell crab that certainly did not taste ‘in season,’ though the tempura was thankfully far lighter in application on the crab than the included blossoms while the Armagnac was admittedly very good. A bit disheartened at this point our pair of entrees would thankfully prove far superior to the starters and although the temperature of the duck could have stood to be warmer both it and the bouillabaisse were excellent and ample in both portion and flavor, the former well paired with fragrant fruits and earthy beets while the latter was rich, rife with seafood, and every bit as good as I hoped it would be when I booked the table. Sated and largely uninspired by the dessert menu with plenty of leftovers from earlier in the day back at the hotel the decision was made to split a single selection and on the suggestion of our server we opted for the basque cake, a warm and buttery presentation lightly tinged with lemon that, while decent, certainly did not justify the $12 pricetag given the small size and flavorless gelato which was already melting on arrival; the whole meal surviving largely on the strength of a single uncommonly seen dish thankfully done very well.

http://www.marchemoderne.net/

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Costa Mesa, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Marche Moderne, Orange County, Vacation

July 14, 2013
3:19 PM
by: Uhockey

Pizzeria Mozza, Newport Beach CA

Pizzeria Mozza

Grissini

Arancine alla Bolognese

Mozzarella di bufala , DiNapoli tomato, Genovese basil & olive oil

Caramel coppetta, marshmallow sauce, salted Spanish peanuts, Chocolate Tuille

With my Los Angeles Pizzeria Mozza experience far less than ideal; the result of traffic issues, seating at the bar, and a scene louder and more crowded than I’d have ever guessed I was excited to hear of the recently opened OC location mere miles from a midday meeting on Sunday afternoon; an off hours visit seemingly the perfect way to enjoy the restaurant without all the hassles of my prior experience. Obviously newer and substantially larger than the original with higher ceilings helping to subdue the expected soundtrack of Stones, Stripes, and The Who I arrived to find the restaurant perhaps 1/3 full and seated immediately it would not be long before I was greeted by my server with my order placed. The kitchen efficient but unhurried as I enjoyed a couple of crisp grissini my first item to arrive was an octet of ping-pong ball sized arancini stuffed with supple rice, pork, and cheese resting in tangy Bolognese sauce and focusing my main course similarly on a simple classic the Margherita DOP would arrive mere moments later featuring Silverton’s golden crust with large air pockets and a light yeasty tang plus thick pools of fresh Bufala Mozzarella and bright, unsweetened sauce beneath intensely flavorful basil. A masterful pie whose crust proved amply suited for sopping up the leftover Bolognese there seemed to be only one way to finish off the afternoon, that being with Mozza’s signature budino, but having already tasted the dessert at the LA locale my server convinced me otherwise, dessert instead consisting of the equally impressive coppetta – two scoops of Mario’s stellar caramel gelato atop a chocolate waffle simply garnished with salty peanuts and house made marshmallow whip, the whole experience more than redeeming Mozza in my eyes and fully justifying the critical acclaim regardless of location.

http://www.pizzeriamozza.com/newportbeach/home.cfm

Posted in Bread Basket, California, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Newport Beach, Orange County, Pizza, Pizzeria Mozza, Pork, Vacation

July 14, 2013
11:10 AM
by: Uhockey

Playground, Santa Ana CA

Playground

Portola Coffee – Black

Tyler’s Cornbread

Tyler’s Apple Fritters

Mazumen Ramen with Wagyu Fat, Oxtail, Lime, Togarashi, Slow Egg, Beautiful Soy

Ashley’s Leftover Pancakes – Graham Cracker Soil with Cocoa Nibs

Fried French Toast with Summer Berry Compote, and Ricotta

Joking with Jason Quinn the night before at 2.0 that, to me, summer was not complete without cornbread the young chef suggested I should swing by the next day and without other significant plans before noon I could not think of a better way to pass the early morning hours than at Playground’s brunch where not even a brief power outage throughout Santa Ana could ruin another great meal, this time in the main restaurant next door to where I’d dined the previous night. Again focused on trusting the staff, this time to the point of printing on the menu that no substitutions were allowed but that if you did not like something it would be stricken from the bill, my decision was simplified somewhat when I asked the server what dishes were best and upon hearing the list suggested he send out “one of each, except the burger” an order he warned me would be too much food but one I stuck to given the low prices and fact that my hotel contained a microwave and refrigerator. Bustling as expected though only partial filled until noon when the a few large parties arrived the meal began with coffee served black without creamer or sweetener and moving right along two appetizers arrived, the first two thick slices of buttery corn bread with great grit and honey butter plus a pair on non-traditional apple fritters; fluffy and not the least bit greasy with a eggy cinnamon base. Transitioning next to ‘something we’re really proud of’ Chef Quinn brought out a deep bowl of ramen the team had apparently learned to make from a visiting chef and although generally not one to order beef my trust was well placed as the silky fat, egg, and soy amalgam coated the noodles beautifully while the lime and togarashi added just enough acid and spice to prevent the dish from being overwhelming. Moving last to ‘dessert’ and fully aware I’d over ordered it would be impossible to say that any place using their left over dessert ingredients to make thick ‘campfire pancakes’ isn’t the sort of place I’d love and as good as these pure maple topped flapjacks were not a thing I ordered that morning was better than the French Toast, a crunchy exterior softened by ample maple and pan reduced berries with rich ricotta at the middle that still tasted great nearly ten hours later after a minute in the microwave.

http://playgrounddtsa.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Coffee, Cornbread, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Orange County, Pancakes, Playground, Santa Ana, The Playground, Vacation

July 14, 2013
8:51 AM
by: Uhockey

Cream Pan, Tustin CA

Cream Pan

Strawberry Croissant

Azuki Cream

Almond Croissant

A rather traditional Japanese-French style bakery located somewhat off the beaten path in a Tustin strip mall a number of locals had strongly encouraged me to stop by Cream Pan during my trip to Orange County specifically to try their storied strawberry croissant. A rather large space predominated by Asian Americans with only a few other native English speakers in the room I arrived at the bakery to find a short queue yet moving quite efficiently it would not be long before I found myself at the front of the line, four items picked out along the way at a total of only $6 cash. Moving from indoors to out, a small patio behind the bakery to be precise, I started my tasting of Cream Pan’s wares with the signature ‘cream pan’ and not entirely sure what to expect was greeted by a soft, yeasty roll dense with custard and light egginess that proved to be quite pleasant, though quite heavy which led to me saving half for later – the bread keeping quite nicely in its bag. Moving next to the croissants, first almond and then strawberry, I was personally underwhelmed by each because although pleasantly crunchy on the exterior both proved rather dense on the inside, the layers not entirely separated and thus more ‘bread’ than croissant though the flavors were admittedly quite well done. Saving the item I assumed would be best for last my final taste of Cream Pan was the traditional Azuki cream and much as I guessed it was indeed the star of the show, a light choux pastry surrounding light whipped cream and dense, sticky red bean paste at the base – an absolute must for anyone opting to make their way out to Tustin.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/cream-pan-tustin

Posted in Breakfast, California, Cream Pan, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Orange County, Tustin, Vacation

July 14, 2013
7:16 AM
by: Uhockey

Sidecar Dougnuts & Coffee, Costa Mesa CA

SideCar Doughnuts & Coffee

Peanut Butter Chocolate

Huckleberry

Cornbread with Sorghum Brown Butter

Maple Bacon

Apricot with Vanilla Bean

Monte Cristo

Buttermilk

Cornbread with Chive and Mt. Tam

Peach and Chamomille Cream

Open daily at 6:30am but baking at the wee hours with one of the owners almost always on site Sidecar Doughnuts caught my attention long before I’d even planned to visit Orange County; an ethos of all natural ingredients without artificial flavors, colors, or preservatives plus house made jams and creams plus a rotating board of specials both sweet and savory had me convinced the place would be worth the drive…and on back to back mornings it proved exactly that. Featuring a friendly staff consisting largely of young SoCal ladies with bright smiles and samples of daily specials on both days my first morning’s visit was with a friend and selecting a half dozen my second stop at Sidecar collected three more that hadn’t been available the prior morning, most selections a cake doughnut aside from the Maple Bacon, Apricot Vanilla Bean, and Monte Cristo which was yeasted, raised, and stuffed with ham and jam. Generally preferring cake doughnuts and particularly impressed by the light nutty tones and touch of buttermilk in Sidecar’s options the most memorable choices of the nine items chosen were without a doubt the ones featuring fresh berries, particularly the peaches and cream and the signature huckleberry yet not to be outdone I also really enjoyed the cornbread choices, the sorghum version harkening the skillet cornbread throughout Low Country and the Cowgirl Creamery studded version nicely balancing the inherent funk of the aged triple cream with chive and only a touch of glaze; the whole collection the best cake doughnuts I’ve found to date.

http://www.sidecardoughnuts.com/

Posted in Breakfast, California, Cornbread, Costa Mesa, Dessert, Food, Orange County, Pork, Sidecar, Sidecar Doughnuts, Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee, Vacation

July 13, 2013
8:16 PM
by: Uhockey

The Playground 2.0 IO, Santa Ana CA

The Playground 2.0

Iced Whole Bean Coffee

Nitro Pina Colada – Zaya 12 year, Coconut Water, Chewy Pineapple

Summer in Irvine (Phock You) Golden Oxtail Pho Consomme, Miyazaki A5, Egg Noodle, Bean Sprout, Jalapeno, Mint

You Put the lime in the Coconut – Albacore Poke, Macadamia Nuts, Mango, Red Fresno, Cilantro, Toasted Coconut, Lime

Gazpacho Snow Cone – Pan Grattato, Chive Blossom, Basil Syrup

Pimms Cup – Pimms No 1, Cucumber Lemon Cordial, Cock & Bull Ginger Beer

Ultimate Shrimp Cocktail Lovers Summer Roll – Spot Prawn, Iceberg, Lemon

Smoked Side of Copper River Sockeye – Mache, Spicy Remoulade, Pumpernickel

Citrusy Beets – Goat Cheese Panna Cotta, Citrus Glaze, Citrus Supremes, Picked Onion, Pumpkin Seed Crumble

SECRET INGREDIENT – CRUSTY BREAD, BLACK GARLIC

Cava – Cellers de can Suriol Del Castell

PEI Mussels Preserved in their Liquor – Sherry Vinegar, Paprika, Olive Oil, Chive, Small Veg

Octopus Carpaccio – Tomato Consommee, Chimichurri

Thai Green Mango Salad – Spicy Wagyu, Peanut, Herbs, ‘Crispies’

Noble Picnic Beer – American Saison (Not Photographed)

King Crab Hot Dog – Old Bay Aioli, Pickle Relish

Blue Ribbon Slaw – Avocado, Agave, Jalapeno

Wagyu Tri Tip – Uncle Lou’s Spice and Sauce

Wood Grilled Squab – 3 day dry aged, Maple Blueberry BBQ

Kalimoxto – Red Wine, Cola, Lime

Cucumber: An Unexpected Hero – Farro, Tzatziki

Mashed Potatoes – Crispy and Creamy, House Made Ranch

Whole Smoked Lamb Shoulder – Tamarind BBQ

Grilled Corn on the Cob – Chile Lime Butter

Baby Back Ribs – Spicy Mint Sauce

Fruit Plate – Season’s Best with Clotted Cream

Ashley in the form of Cheese

Caprese Amuse – Crutomat, Mozzarella Cheesecake, Balsamic, Basil Olive Oil

When Asked about Summer Food – Everyone says Watermelon

Morning, Noon, Night – Avema, Coffee Simple, Pathos Chocolate Porter

Buy Me Some Peanuts and Crackerjacks – Peanut Brittle, Popcorn Ice Cream, Warm Caramel Sauce

Funnel Cake, Bitch – Warm Season Berry Compote, Paco Vanilla

Barrel Aged Fernet – Four Week Once Used American Oak

Told by more than one trustworthy source that Jason Quinn’s playground was putting out some of the finest food in Orange County and hearing rumor of a special invitation only space next door I quickly e-mailed the restaurant to inquire; my efforts landing myself and a friend two seats at the bar where Chef Quinn and his team produced one of the most memorable meals of my life – a picnic style feast set to the theme of Summer and Bryan Adam’s iconic Summer of 69. Admittedly not the sort of space for a timid person or diner, Playground 2.0 emphasizes placing your faith in the chefs and having a great time and with plenty of strangers, a soundtrack plus occasional slide show, and more food and drink than anyone will need one should generally rest assured that their faith is well placed because not a single one of the twenty five plates that circulated the room that night was less than good and some were quite frankly the sort of dish I’d have paid the price of admission for by themselves. From salads and soups with A5 Wagyu to a ‘hot dog’ made entirely of fresh picked king crab and onward to a whole tray of smoked line caught salmon, lamb shoulder, baby back ribs, and enough dry aged squab that I literally ate three birds on my own the ingredient quality of every dish wowed while the pairings were more than enough that if I’d finished them all I’d have needed a taxi to return to my hotel and moving on to desserts, all prepared by a young woman named Ashley, it would be hard to name one that stood out as ‘best’ because all were ample and delicious – most diners leaving plenty on the table as they were simply too full to finish. A truly remarkable meal and a veritable steal at less than $200 all inclusive it was a meal so good that I returned to Playground for brunch the next day and can say without a doubt that I cannot wait for my next 2.0 experience, both my patronage and trust well earned.

http://playgrounddtsa.com/2-0-calendar/invitation-only/

Posted in California, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Octopus, Orange County, Pork, Santa Ana, Tasting Menu, The Playground, The Playground 2.0, The Playground 2.0 IO, Vacation

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