Marzapane Roma
2015 Passito Moscadeddu Dettori
Focaccia – Basil Powder, Olive Oil
Gastronomia – House Ox Tongue Headcheese, Eel, Pork Meatballs, Sheep’s Cheese, Pickles, Mustard, Bread
Rigatoni Carbonara – Egg Yolk, Guanciale
Candela Spezzata “alla Genovese” – Durham Wheat, Beef, Onion
Capellino – Caul Fat, Licorice
Corzetto Marzapane – Beurre Noisette, Glasswort, Crispy Eel, Egg Pasta, Ginger
Hunted Mallard Duck – Vine Wood, Abruzzo Potato, Olive Oil
Pain Brioche – Bitter Orange Marmalade, Beurre Noisette Ice Cream
Quince Confit – Heather Honey, Bread, Candied Citrus, Fig Milk Ice Cream
Black Cardamom Crème Caramel
Although Chef Alba Esteve Ruiz left Marzapane in 2018 the Restaurant at Via Velletri 39 has persevered, and guided by the vision of Chef Francesco Capuzzo Dolcetta, Marzapane now proposes a seasonal menu full of bold flavors at a fair price whether one selects the €50-to-€65 tasting or a la carte options.
A Michelin Guide Restaurant, though not currently starred, it is in a Scandinavian-leaning dining room that guests are seated starting at 19h30, the kitchen visible through glass pristine and well-appointed with everything from flat-tops to a Big Green Egg.
Best defined as a Trattoria, but more avant-garde than many of Rome’s time-tested Restaurants, a quick look at the menu shows several classics alongside more experimental plates, the willingness to test boundaries without eschewing history easily appreciated by those seeking something a little different.
Situated a good distance from tourist attractions, and thus a largely locals destination, diners can still expect English-friendly service, Water plus well-priced Wine getting things started alongside complimentary Focaccia and Marzapane’s daily “Gastronomia” consisting of handmade Ox Tongue Headcheese, Grilled Eel, Pork Meatballs and Sheep’s Cheese.
A sizable starter, though that is not to say primi or secondi skimp in terms of portion, Pastas next arrived in two rounds, the Rigatoni slick with Eggs and Pork Cheek a peerless specimen while Candela Spezzata “alla Genovese” took a backseat to more compelling Corzetto with Eel and Ginger plus Capellino that marries melted Beef Fat with a hint of Licorice.
Selecting wild-shot Duck to share, three nearly-raw slices defiantly standing alongside smashed Potatoes and reduced Game Jus, Dessert followed as a trio, Quince Confit atop dry Bread texturally odd but nicely flavored while Custard-soaked Brioche and aromatic Crème Caramel each stepped away from the traditional Trattoria with stunning results.
www.marzapaneroma.com
