Aureole
Double Espresso – Ice
Blood Orange “Creamsicle” Parfait – Sicilian Pistachios, Blood Orange Coulis, White Chocolate
Dark Chocolate Brownie – Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Malted Crème Chantilly, Peanut Brittle
Coconut Bananas Foster – Malibu Caramel, Coconut Sorbet, Spiced Rum Financier, Macadamia Nuts
Candy Apple & Churro Sundae – Dulce de Leche, Cinnamon Ice Cream, Caramel Corn
Bourbon Maple Brown Butter Crème Brulee – Hazelnut Crust, Pomegranate, Cranberry Sorbet, Minus 8 Vinegar Caviar
Although many are likely unaware of Chef Charlie Palmer’s eponymous Steakhouse at Four Seasons it would be difficult for anyone visiting The Mandalay Bay complex to miss Aureole, still to this day one of Las Vegas’ most dramatic rooms and a post-dinner visit on Friday once again telling of a combination of gifted individuals and exceptional product.
Toqued by the Michigan-Ohio combination of Chef John Church and Executive Sous Chef Athena Thickstun, the latter largely responsible for a menu of sweets that evolves gradually to compliment the former’s focus on elegant seasonal fare, it was shortly after descending the staircase around Aureole’s several-story Wine Vault that greetings were offered by the Restaurant’s General Manager, a choice of seats thanks to low volume presenting a sizeable two-top at the main room’s center.
Exactly 1/2 changed from a November visit, Pumpkin Bread Pudding as well as the Rose Apple Tart lost to colder weather and Passion Fruit nowhere to be found, it was with Espresso in hand that Chef Thickstun described a Creamsicle Parfait to start things off light, the mimetic Orange at the center of a large plate surrounded with White Chocolate squiggles and filled with Vanilla Ice Cream atop a dense Pistachio Cake that nicely tempered the sour Winter Citrus.
Moving next to a Brownie Sundae, Charlie Palmer’s “Progressive American” style nowhere better exampled than in a combination of Chocolate and Peanut Butter that one-ups the similar Candy Bar at his Steakhouse by way of myriad textures and a bigger scoop of Ice Cream, it was with the last bits of Brittle consumed that 2017’s North American Dessert of the year made its return, Chef Thickstun’s boozy Bananas Foster just as remarkable this time around with two Almond Cakes soaked in Rum propping up cubes of Bruleed Fruit beneath slowly melting Sorbet that tastes exactly like toasted Coconut.
At this point perfectly contented yet simultaneously excited to try more it was in an unexpected turn that course four saw Athena deliver her newest creation, the cool grey skies outside apparently in need of a splash of color that she was happy to provide in the form of bite-sized “Candy Apples” amidst piping hot Mexican Donuts, housemade Caramel Corn and Cinnamon Ice Cream nuggets protected from melting by rainbow Sprinkles.
Opting for two additional shots of Espresso to finish, Chef Church’s signature Cheesecake Trio best left for another time, it was much like the week before Thanksgiving that the night ended with Crème Brulee, the flavor of Maple Syrup this time seeming a little more prominent as the base upon which guests are treated to emulsified drops of Minus 8 Vinegar, Pomegranate Arils and bitter-sweet Cranberry Sorbet.
FIVE STARS: While most are aware that Chef John Church has essentially reinvented Aureole Las Vegas and reestablished the Restaurant as one of Sin City’s top five places for dinner fewer are familiar with Chef Athena Thickstun, though if she continues at her current pace it seems fairly certain that will not be the case for long.
RECOMMENDED: Coconut Bananas Foster, Blood Orange “Creamsicle” Parfait, Bourbon Maple Brown Butter Crème Brulee.
AVOID: N/A.
TIP: More changes coming to both sides of the menu soon.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.charliepalmer.com/aureole-las-vegas
