The Loyalist
Foie Gras Éclair, Fried Corn, Lavender Honey
Benton’s Ham, Duck Egg, Mornay, Sourdough
The Loyalist Cheeseburger, Fries
Hazelnut Praline Puff, Whipped Cream, Toasty Almonds
Having missed out on Townhouse due to a staff holiday when nearby it was doubling down on John and Karen Shields’ Cuisine that nearly six hours were spent at 177 North Ada Street on Friday evening, first a 5:00pm walk-in at The Loyalist and then twelve-plus courses at Michelin 2* Smyth upstairs.
Open now for just under two years but quick to gain accolades for both a world-class Burger and the sort of scene preferred by Millennials, fanciful Cocktails and brooding lights that can make anyone look better all wrapped around a brief menu rooted in top quality product, it was after a table with backless stools was selected over the bar with same that a young waitress fond of “hun” and “babe” stopped by, her recommendation of several items taken into account though only the Burger would be selected.
Weary of what many declare to be a substantial tasting to follow but at the same time keen to gauge The Loyalist on its own merits, the eventual choice of four plates conservative but proving well-calculated by night’s end, it was as a result of being unable to resist both Foie Gras and Choux that things got underway with the Foie Gras Éclair, Mrs. Shields smartly glazing the $14 length lightly with Honey to balance the Liver while crunchy Corn Kernels dialed up the texture of already faultless Pastry.
Passing on Salads from The Farm as Smyth would undoubtedly better show John’s hand with Produce it was instead atop Housemade Sourdough that course two placed Ham and Duck Egg before liberally adding thick Mornay Sauce, the “open-face” Croque Madame result as decadent as it was delicious and the sort of thing easily shared but also so good that one per diner might result in less fighting over last bites.
Onward next to “The Dirty Burg,” a name affectionately applied to John’s blend of Chuck, Bacon and Shortrib inside a Bun more than capable of remaining fluffy despite Meat, Housemade Pickles, Cheese, Onions and unctuous Mayo, it would be difficult to gauge whether this truly tops that of Au Cheval or several spots back home without side-by-side comparison though the fine grind and rich flavor is certainly worth a taste while flaccid Fries were unfortunately a major letdown.
Opting for just one of three Desserts to finish, an admitted mistake in retrospect, it was even bigger than the Burger that Karen’s Hazelnut Praline Puff arrived as silent Netflix behind the bar transitioned to Jurassic Park from Boondock Saints, the Choux once again beyond reproach while lightly sweetened Cream and toasted Almonds evoked thoughts of a Paris Brest.
www.smythandtheloyalist.com
