EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine
Hendricks Gin & Tonic – Q Tonic, Cucumber, Rose Petal, Dehydrated Lime Wheel
Pan Amb Tomaquet – Pan de Cristal, Fresh Tomato, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Spanish Santona Anchovies
Gazpacho – Watermelon, Cantaloupe, Mint
Maine Lobster Salpicon – Leche de Tigre, Pickled Red Onions
Tostada – Tuna Rillette, Guacamole, Rocoto Chili
Montadito – Smoked Salmon Crostini, Truffled Cream Cheese, Honey, Hibiscus Flower
Green Tartare – Zucchini, Avocado, Rice Crisp, Pistachio Vinaigrette
Gambas Tartare – Gulf Shrimp, Roasted Bone Marrow, Chili Crab Sauce, Toasted Bread
Tuna Katsu Sandwich – Big Eye Tuna, Brioche Bread, Japanese BBQ Sauce, Piment d’Anglet Pepper
Mishima Wagyu Entrana – Japanese Wagyu Skirt Steak, Black Rock Salt, Shishito Peppers, Ishiyaki Stone
Tortilla – Eggs, Garlic, Asparagus, Perigord Black Truffles
Brava Potatoes – Crispy Potatoes, Traditional Brava Sauce
Croquetas – Kimchi Pistou, Romesco Sauce
Bikini – Sobrasada, Mahon Cheese, Pressed Sandwich
Pulpo Viajero – Tamarind Mole, Toasted Spicy Bread Crumbs
Paella Marinera – Gulf Shrimp, Manilla Clams, Black Mussels, Cuttle Fish
Acorn-Fed Pluma Iberica – Pork End Loin, Café de Paris Butter, Palo Cortado, Pommes Soufflé, Fried Sage
Granita – Strawberry Shaved Ice, Popcorn Mousse
Flan – Traditional Custard, Caramel, Lemon Curd
Opened in August of 2018 it did not take long for word to spread regarding EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine, the acronym for “Extra Day Off” to Restaurant-folks quickly gathering an industry following with nearly every patron singing the praises of Chef Oscar Edo and managing partner Roberto Liendo fresh off a job at Bazaar Meat by José Andrés.
Situated in the former Chada Thai space on South Jones Boulevard, just forty seats surrounded by a hand-painted mural, Wine and metal curtains, it is immediately on entry that guests are greeted by servers, an Iberico Pork leg behind glass giving diners an idea what to expect though in reality just a glimpse.
Seated at a four-top near the kitchen, EDO’s nearby Gin-and-Tonic Cart offering temptation with each Beverage hand-crafted to highlight the botanicals of featured Spirits, it is upon review of a menu divided into sections that a broad mix of influences are found, the majority Catalonian but even then occasionally infused with Ingredients traditionally associated with South America or Asia.
Given the option to dine a la carte or via degustacion, the latter available to whole tables at $45 per person and featuring ten-plates chosen by the kitchen, it is certainly advantageous for first timers to trust the Chef, an opening taste of cold Melon Soup preparing the mouth and quickly followed by imported Pan de Cristal brushed by Tomatoes with sliced Anchovies meant to be added by those who enjoy their saline yet subtle flavor.
Serious about their craft, the team of veterans from both Las Vegas and Barcelona showing a level of confidence not typically associated with North American Tapas, it was continuing light that gently cooked Lobster was served in Tiger Milk, a restrained amount of heat infusing the acid and blossoming further with shredded Tuna and Peruvian Peppers on Tortilla rounds to follow.
Next paying homage to Andrés, a swirl of smoke infusing silky Salmon and Cream Cheese on Toast with flavors delicately balanced by Honey, those in search of something Vegan or Vegetarian would do well to try green “Tartare” offering Zucchini and Avocado dressed in Pistachio Vinaigrette, though on this particular evening the plate was almost forgotten in the presence of a daily special offering lightly breaded Big Eye Tuna served Katsu-style on Bread and intentionally left raw in the middle.
Changing the menu frequently, Mr. Liendo citing a need to keep both Chefs and diners fascinated, it was here that a new dish of raw Shrimp atop Bone Marrow achieved the desired effect, contrasting tastes and textures melding into something greater than the sum of its constituents while imported Japanese Wagyu focused on simplicity by allowing guests to prepare it as they like atop an Ishiyaki Stone with nothing more than Peppers and Salt.
By now more than a little impressed, an option to extend the tasting accepted without second thought, it was atop soft Eggs and Garlic that Black Truffles were generously shaved before moving on to two EDO signatures, the lengthy Potatoes Bravas thinly sliced, stacked and cooked crispy while traditional Croquetas are spiced up by fermented Cabbage that may be distracting to purists, but seems to go over well with the majority.
Next offering four Bikini, an extra-thin Sandwich of Pork and Cheese made famous at Barcelona’s Bikini Concert Hall, it was riffing on Albert Adrià’s Octopus at Tickets that another stunner was presented, the vibrant Mole quite unlike anything previously tasted while Paella to follow was a sharable steal for just $25, though a bit disappointing as even after the recommended five minutes of rest it failed to develop any sort of Socarrat.
Rounding out the savories with another recent addition, Iberico Pork Loin dressed in Butter beneath souffléd Potatoes most definitely outpacing the average Pork Chop, it was in palate-cleansing fashion that Strawberry Ice sparkled next to buttery Mousse before finishing with EDO’s take on Flan, the Custard thick and dense without air pockets but instead brightened by a dollop of Lemon Curd.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Rarely impressed by Tapas stateside, the intended focus on “authenticity” almost invariably compromised by inferior Ingredients or garish pricing, EDO Gastro Tapas & Wine breathes new life into a tired genre by not only importing many of its ingredients from Spain, but doing so at a fair price while also acknowledging global influences in a manner that frequently adds rather than distracts.
RECOMMENDED: Pan Amb Tomaquet, Montadito, Gambas Tartare, Tuna Katsu Sandwich, Brava Potatoes, Bikini, Pulpo Viajero, Acorn-Fed Pluma Iberica, Flan.
AVOID: As above, the Paella was a little too wet to develop crispy Rice while Croquetas would be better offered with Kimchi Pistou optional.
TIP: 5:00p-11:00p Sunday through Thursday, 5:00p-1a Friday and Saturday. Reservations available via Website, Phone or Yelp!
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
www.edotapas.com
