Cocina Abierta
Coqueto – Rum, Tequila Reposado, Orange Juice, Passion Fruit, Angostura Bitters
Ripe Mafafo Plantain Carpaccio – Yellowfin Tuna Tataki, Guiro Avocado, Pink Oyster Mushroom Marmalade
Pujols Sweet Potato Causa – Octopus Al Olivo, Heirloom Aji Amarillo, Tahiti Lemon
Spiny Caribbean Lobster – Local Orange Glaze, Pigeon Pea Miso, Cashew, Coconut Milk
Red Snapper – Turmeric, Tamarind, Mango Chutney, Cherry Tomato Relish
Chicken Pastilla – Rose Apple, Saffron, Anatto, Zucchini
Mofongo – Pekín Duck, Shiitake Mushroom Consomé
Rabbit Persian Fesejān – Ketembilla Molasses, Peanuts, Pomegranate
Pekín Jackfruit Tacos – Starfruit Pico de Gallo, Guava Hoisin
Beef Wellington – Oyster Mushrooms Duxelles, Noisettes Zucchini, Pumpkin Flower
Lamb Massaman – Jasmine Rice, Cashews
Chocolate – Coffee, Passion Fruit
“Taína” Squash – Local Black Mole, Coconut Sour Cream, Black Sesame Toast
Celebrating a decade in Condado, Cocina Abierta not only survived Hurricane Maria and COVID-19, it thrived, all thanks to Chef Martín Louzao and a dedicated team that continues to explore and grow by focusing on global flavors applied to sustainably sourced Ingredients.
Known for its six “act” menu, a $60 bargain that currently looks back on 10 years of Louzao’s favorite plates, it was minutes prior to 6:30pm that guests were offered a seat in front of the open kitchen, the modern lighting and repurposed décor giving Cocina Abierta a lively feel bolstered by Nine Inch Nails on the stereo.
With the stated goal to “create and interpret culinary ideas inspired from different cultures, products, and techniques,” a feat accomplished thanks to contributions by everyone from ethnobotanists to culinary historians, it was with a Cocktail in hand that the night began boldly, Louzao’s Ripe Mafafo Plantain Carpaccio incorporating acid, earth and sea while the Sweet Potato Causa did similar with layered textures and added heat.
Focused largely on Ingredients developed in Puerto Rico, Spiny Lobster with local Citrus and fermented Pigeon Peas an immediate highlight, the day’s fresh-caught Fish also fared well before transitioning to heavier plates such as Mofongo stuffed with Pekin Duck and a shattering Chicken Pastilla perfumed by Saffron and Anatto.
In many ways a playground for Chef’s imagination, his Oriundo and Atelier concepts furthering that thought, course four took guests east to Iran and sideways for fusion, the Fesejān a little dry compared to Persia’s original while Chinese-Latin Tacos showed great depth and a meaty bite despite being entirely Vegan.
Continuing with Wellington, both it and the Lobster carrying a $5 supplement, purists would probably prefer Beef more rare than served on this night, though Lamb incorporating Thai Curry tasted exquisite, as did locally cultivated Squash with Almond, native Chili Peppers and plenty of Cocoa forming a mighty convincing Mole.
Only offering one Dessert, a tiny Chocolate Tart with Coffee Crumble and clumpy Passion Fruit Ice Cream, it bears mention that one can instead choose an item from any other Act to replace this course, or simply finish after Entrees for $55 a diner.
www.cocinaabierta.net