Hartwood
Lamb Tacos, Bitter Greens, Burnt Citrus, Coleslaw
Mayan Prawns
Sea Bass Collar in “Buffalo” Sauce, Grapefruit, Avocado
Crispy Octopus, Potatoes, Herbs, Lime
Pork Ribs, Pineapple, Chicharron, Pickles
Eggplant, Red Mole, Nut Ash
Orange Flan, Sesame Crumbles
Salted Honey Cake, Chamomile Cream
Corn and Mayan Honey Ice Cream
Peanut Brittle Ice Cream
Now synonymous with Tulum’s dining scene, Hartwood is best taken as a work of passion, American ex-patriots Eric Werner and Mya Henry establishing the foundation for a whole new type of Restaurant after falling in love with the now-busy beach road in 2009.
Off-grid by necessity, solar energy powering lights and music while cookery occurs over open flames, it is via advanced reservations (or a lengthy wait for walk-ins) that diners are granted access, every table busy from 6pm until 10pm as staff circulates with burning buckets of copal to help dissuade mosquitoes.
Zero-emissions by choice, all Proteins and Produce locally sourced for a daily-evolving menu naming only the primary Ingredient, it is from memory that talented servers recite choices, the prices expensive in comparison to Mexico as a whole but about half what an experienced diner might pay in New York, Paris or Tokyo.
All gravel floor and palm trees, with expected humidity hanging heavy, many diners will select Fruit-based Cocktails to quench their thirst, with most pairing nicely to Appetizers like succulent Lamb Barbacoa Tacos or charred Prawns bathed in a vibrant orange Sauce.
Inhabited exclusively by tourists, many the linen-clad inhabitants of nearby resorts, savvy diners will not pass on crispy Octopus that maintains its characteristic chew amidst a nearly-Spanish backdrop, while Bone-in Sea Bass bathed in piquant Dressing finds balance in Avocado and Citrus.
Better than nearby Arca or Nu, with Chef Werner’s understanding of the Yucatán allowing great Ingredients to shine without a lot of fuss, Eggplant in Red Mole comes grilled nearly-burnt adjacent fork-tender Pork Ribs complimented by Pineapple and housemade Pickles.
Unrushed despite the crowds, laid-back but certainly not slow, Dessert continues a rustic theme via bitter-sweet Flan and extra-moist Honey Cake, though the real stars are daily Ice Creams that on this evening featured Corn with local Honey and creamy Peanut Brittle with just a touch of added sweetness.
www.hartwoodtulum.com