GBD, Washington DC

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GBD

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Tres Leches with Toasted Coconut

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Spiced Pumpkin – Cake Doughnut with Ginger Glaze, Candied Pepitas

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Gala Apple Cinnamon Fritter

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Raspberry Ginger Fritter

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Maple Bourbon Bacon

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Key Lime Filled with Lime-Vanilla Glaze and Gingersnaps

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Fried Chicken Biscuit – Crème Fraiche Biscuit, Spicy Honey

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Another day, another doughnut – and this time with fried chicken – could only mean one thing as the rain continued to come down by the bucket and our elected officials sat at home; a trip to Golden Brown Delicious, or GBD. Sprung from the minds of Kyle Bailey and Tiffany Maclsaac whose work, chicken, and doughnuts I’d experienced a year prior at Birch & Barley it was expected that much of what I would find at GBD would be impressive and with a space nearly ten times the size of Astro Donuts the day prior what I found was indeed remarkable; a selection of over a dozen daily doughnuts and fried chicken made-to-order at 8am. Undoubtedly the sort of place where quality ingredients translate to quality products and with doughnuts inclusive of all varieties from cake to fritter to yeasted or cruller it was a wide variety that we selected and although the maple bacon proved a bit dense and bland for my tastes the remainder were exceptional, particularly the melt-in-the-mouth dulce de leche, custard laden key lime, and spicy yet subtle raspberry fritter complete with seeds. Not to be outdone, and well worth the 15 minute wait, the fried chicken at GBD almost resembles a Japanese karaage – fatty, supple, crunchy, and perfectly balanced by the one-two combination of slightly sour cream top biscuit and lightly drizzled honey.

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http://www.gbdchickendoughnuts.com/

Posted in Breakfast, DC, Food, GBD, Pork, Vacation, Washington

Proof, Washington DC

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Proof

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Crisps with Yogurt

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Whipped Pipe Dreams Farm Goat Cheese with clover honey, thyme, fried rosemary, maldon sea salt, black pepper, flatbread

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Sweet potato Gnocchi with Roasted Squash – Brussels sprouts, wild mushrooms, sage, brown butter, parmesan

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Sauteed Veal Sweetbreads – Chanterelles, corn, cherry tomato, bacon, Yukon golds, foie gras

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Pan Roasted Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Sweet Cherry shortcake, pistachio, cocoa nibs, bing cherry jus

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Warm Duck Confit with Scallion Hush Puppies – Pickled Beech Mushrooms, Tomatillo Salsa Verde

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Honeycrisp Apple Cobbler – walnuts, bourbon vanilla ice cream

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Sticky Toffee Pudding Cake – vanilla ice cream, almonds, toffee

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Grilled Banana – Banana Bread, Peanut Brittle, Coconut Sorbet

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Somewhat limited on dinner options due to a standing 7:00pm reservation with Alexander Ovechkin and the Capitals at Verizon Center an early dinner at small-plates wine bar Proof was decided on and packing the space almost as soon as the doors opened it appeared our plan was not uncommon, the room buzzing with men in suits and those in jerseys talking hockey while sipping wine and snacking on charcuterie. A clean, energetic space with high arched ceilings plus lots of wood and brick that gets loud rather quickly it would not take long after seating before we were greeted by a young server named Sam and understanding our time constraints a better job could not have been done in terms of taking our order, coursing out plates, and providing a great experience in just under ninety minutes. Featuring a diverse menu with a number of options both common and esoteric ranging from $12-20 it was with a bit of negotiating that we agreed upon five savories plus three sweets and with the selections delivered in three courses every single plate proved not only well prepared but also impressively portioned considering the prices. Starting first with tender gnocchi lightly dressed in brown butter alongside a creamy cheese plate before progressing into smooth sweetbreads impeccably balanced by flavors both sweet and earthy alongside a medallion of caramelized foie gras atop a golden pancake and a plate of crispy confit finding levity in acid each of the savories showed a great degree of balance and textural complexity, the latter a quality shared by the desserts whose flavors tended towards the toward the *very* sweet by choice, particularly the uniquely crispy toffee pudding.

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http://proofdc.com

Posted in Bread Basket, DC, Dessert, Foie, Food, Gnocchi, Ice Cream, Proof, Sweetbreads, Vacation, Washington

Range, Washington DC

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Range

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Roasted Baby Carrot – Hazelnut, Honey, Goat Cheese

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Kimchi Linguini – Uni, Scallop, Nasturtium

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Old Bay Rigati – Lobster Macaroni and Cheese

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Muscovy Duck Rillettes, Fig Jam, Baguette and Potted Foie Gras, Apricot Compote, Brioche

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Iron Skillet Cornbread – Bacon Marmalade, Cheddar Jalapeno Biscuits – Pepper Jelly, Ciabatta – Smoked Cream Cheese and Strawberry Compote, Epi – Ranch Spiced Goat Cheese, Heirloom Tomato Focaccia – Old Bay Butter

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Brussels Sprouts – Fish Sauce, Crispy Shallots

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Anson Mills Stone Ground Grits

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Caramel pot du crème – Pear, Fig, Almond Cake, Chocolate Stout

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Cashew and Grape Donuts – Concord Grape Jam, Toasted Bread Ice Cream

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Smores Rice Crispy Treat

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Berry Almond Tart

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he third restaurant from Chef Bryan Voltaggio and the first to stray from Frederick, Range captured my attention the moment I heard about the concept; a sprawling space within the Chevy Chase Pavilion featuring a modernist approach to regional cuisine utilizing multiple open kitchens each with their own independent focus on breads, fish, vegetables, salumi, and more. Clean in design with light woods, subtle lighting, and large windows looking out onto the mall below it is clear from the moment one enters the dining room that the focus here is on the kitchen and with servers well informed and happy to display their knowledge the surprisingly large menu becomes easier to navigate by asking a few questions, mostly relating to portion sizes, it was not long after seating that our order was placed and food began to arrive, coursed out at our request. Clearly the sort of restaurant where the menu encourages one to order more than logic would dictate necessary and pressed further by the presence of a jars and charcuterie section plus house made breads and spreads it was perhaps the simple consistency of our two hour visit to Range that impressed me the most, each item save for watery and acrid linguini perfectly executed and serving testament to allowing each kitchen to truly focus. From creamy foie gras and lobster laden macaroni and cheese to immaculate produce paired with ingredients to highlight and not hide, then onward to one of the best bread services in the country and a pastry kitchen to match Range may be a bit out of the way for tourists but from what I can tell the space seems quite popular with the suits in Northwest DC and I only wish more restaurants serving this caliber of lunch existed in other cities.

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http://www.voltrange.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Cornbread, DC, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Lobster, Pork, Range, Vacation, Washington

Lincoln’s Waffle Shop, Washington DC

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Lincoln’s Waffle Shop

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Banana Pancakes and Scrapple

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Chicken and Waffles

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A DC institution if for no other reason than the location an early morning stop at Lincoln’s Waffle shop seemed just the thing for a rainy day during a government shutdown; easy parking, just the locals, and greasy diner food plus unlimited coffee while watching the passers-by outside. In reality a spot with neither ingredients nor service better than Waffle House but a few distinctive odds n’ ends such as scrapple befitting its region and prices on par with most spaces comparable I was actually surprised by the quality of both the crispy buttermilk waffle and the fluffy pancakes rife with bananas while the scrapple was a bit less flavorful than most; perhaps a plus to some.

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http://www.lincolnswaffleshop.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, DC, Food, Lincoln's Waffle Shop, Pancakes, Pork, Vacation, Waffles, Washington

Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken, Washington DC

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Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken

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Key Lime

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Banana Nut

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Chocolate Caramel

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Sweet Potato, Toasted Marshmallow, Cranberries

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Black and White

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Crème Brulee

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While I’ll continue to hold a grudge that the combination of the government shutdown and constant rain made the DC leg of our trip far from ideal perhaps my biggest gripe of the trip was that Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken does not serve the ‘chicken’ part of their name until 11am because if that chicken is even close to their doughnuts I’m afraid that we may have missed out. One in the growing trend of artisan doughnut purveyors popping up across America Astro is perhaps the smallest in the genre aside from Chicago’s Doughnut Vault and with zero seating the daily selections are presented on a board, both cake and raised options represented and defying you to select less one of each given their diversity and eclectic nature. Focused on high quality ingredients and inspired presentations including rounded options and some that are square it would be difficult to single out any one option as ‘best’ in our selection of six but having experienced attempts at “crème brulee” in the past this was by far the most successful as the sugar shattered like glass giving way to a creamy center while the Thanksgiving-side quality sweet potato, cruller-light key lime, and Oreo cookie-esque Black and White all showed beautifully as well.

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http://astrodoughnuts.com/

Posted in Astro Doughnuts and Fried Chicken, Breakfast, DC, Dessert, Food, Vacation, Washington

Woodberry Kitchen [2,] Baltimore MD

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Woodberry Kitchen

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Ancient Grain Bread, Local Butter, Peach Jam

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Quiver – Lemongrass blanc Vermouth, VT raw honey gin, quinquina aperitif, MD sparkling cider

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Leek and Ricotta Dumplings – Herb Butter, Thyme, Dark Rye Crumbs

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Mac n Cheese – Colbere, Chesapeake Cheddar, Vermeer

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Tilghman Island Crab Cake – Broccoli, Cherry Tomatoes, Scarlet Frills, Ramp Tartar

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Pheasant – Pan Roasted with Celery Root Cream, Eggplant, Frisee, Soft Herbs

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Sticky Toffee Pudding – Prune Plums, Candied Pecan, Vanessa Grape Ice Cream

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Butterscotch Pudding – Whipped Cream, Toffee

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After Dinner Mint – Cocoa Mint Sorbet, Grasshopper Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce

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More than impressed by the food during my seminal visit to Woodberry Kitchen but appalled by the ‘service’ it was with trepidation (and a gift card) that I made my return, a visit largely predicated on the fact that I knew it was the sort of place my sister would love; the setting, the food, and the artisan community all worthy of admiration during both visits even if service remained off kilter. Truly a gem in the local community and significant on a national/global scale given the Chef’s high standards of local-ethical sustainability navigating the menu at Woodberry again posed a challenge that would require a party of eight in order to sample everything we desired but focusing on the items most representative of Maryland the results again proved stellar; a $25 crab cake highlighting the savories and worth every single penny with the intense ramp tartar only serving to gild an already perfect lily while both pastas and the pheasant shined brightly with the kitchen showing a deft hand in highlighting the intensity of the bird while also allowing the herbal accoutrements their time in the spotlight. Never known to fall short in the desserts department, neither the restaurant or ourselves, a list of 7 possibilities was culled to three and while my sister’s fondness for mint left her enjoying the sundae it was the others that stole my attention, a sticky toffee pudding tender and melting with fantastic grape ice cream and the delicate butterscotch pudding as soft as cotton and smooth as silk.

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http://www.woodberrykitchen.com/

Posted in Baltimore, Bread Basket, Crab, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Maryland, Vacation, Woodberry Kitchen

DeLorenzo’s Tomato Pies, Robbinsville NJ

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DeLorenzo’s Tomato Pies

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Half Basil, Half Artichoke

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Established in 1947 and serving the same traditional Tomato Pies since that time DeLorenzo’s Tomato Pies was slightly out of the way en route from The Big Apple to The Nation’s Capital and even though the pizzeria has relocated to swanky new digs in Robbinsville since the turn of the century it turned out to be a diversion worth taking. Classic in its methods and still using the same ‘sauce’ since day one while cleaving the pizza with a kitchen knife each pie is made to order and with a disclaimer that prime time dining can be met by delays up to an hour it was easily decided that our arrival would be early and met with no line we ordered quickly, a “small” pie large enough to feed a trio arriving only twenty minutes later. Simple and rustic, cracker crust beneath the cheese and toppings with hand crushed tomatoes added last and all for a mere $12 plus a dollar for artichokes – well worth putting a few extra miles on the rental car and worthy of a trip out of Manhattan for enthusiasts.

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http://www.delorenzostomatopies.com

Posted in DeLorenzo's, DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies, Food, New Jersey, Pizza, Robbinsville, Vacation

Momofuku Ma Peche, New York NY

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Momofuku Ma Peche

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House Made Ginger Soda

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Foie Gras Terrine – Sarsaparilla, Malt, Brioche

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Fried Rice – Lobster, Coconut Curry, Cilantro

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Roasted Duck – Orange, Pistachio, Rutabaga

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Fried Chicken – Thai Chili, Vinegar, Sesame

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Creamed Corn – Pickled Jalapenos, Cotija Cheese, Cilantro

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Cookies – Compost, Confetti, Cornflake Chocolate Chip with Marshmallow

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It is always with cautious enthusiasm that I enter David Chang restaurants but with distant memories of a meal …or more importantly the trek to get there and the wait…at Noodle many years ago it seemed only appropriate to end my first Manhattan trip with my sister since that day at Ma Peche, the lone remaining NYC Chang restaurant I’d not yet visited. A brilliant white space in midtown with a consistently intriguing menu and the same subtly refined service as Ssam it was early lunch that brought us to Ma Peche before departing for Baltimore and DC and although dessert came in the form of three cookies from Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar upstairs since there is no proper sweets menu at lunch the savories more than picked up the slack in a rare event where there were even leftovers. Starting first with a truly inspired plate of creamy foie gras and a serving of lobster fried rice large, delicious, and packed with lobster that the chefs were cracking by hand in the open kitchen it would have seemed unlikely for the meal to get any better from there but that would be underestimating Chang and Co.’s skill with poultry; a defiantly rosy duck breast with crackling skin and a roulade of confit managing to wow and still falling behind the famous ‘Korean’ fried chicken for the best thing I ate during the 9 day duration of our trip, a one-two punch of sweet and heat that I’d have gladly paid double for and only wish I’d had enough stomach space left to enjoy more of as my sister had tapped out early on the rice and duck.

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http://momofuku.com/new-york/ma-peche/

Posted in Dessert, Foie, Food, Lobster, Ma Peche, Momofuku, Momofuku Ma Peche, New York, Vacation

Pastis, New York NY

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Pastis

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Balthazar Sticky Bun

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Balthazar Orange Brioche

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French Toast

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Pancakes

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A true classic soon to be closing its doors for ‘remodeling’ I finally decided it was time to visit Pastis for an early breakfast on our last morning in Manhattan and much like big brother Balthazar the bustling West Village Bistro proved perfectly serviceable and ‘sceney,’ though certainly overpriced. The sort of place where tourists, families, and ladies who lunch gather to linger over $10 oatmeal and $6 bacon or bottomless cups of $4 coffee it didn’t take either of us long to get over the sticker shock and with orders sent to the kitchen we began with a duo of pastries, tea, and coffee – the former requested to be warmed in the kitchen and all the better for it with the laminated crunch of the sticky bun truly one of the better pastries in the city. Moving on to main courses and ringing in at $14 and $16 respectively it can only be said that what Pastis lacks in imagination and portion it makes up for in ingredients and precision, both the pancakes and the French Toast textbook and served with spotless organic fruits and pure maple syrup in a setting nothing short of iconic.

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http://www.pastisny.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, New York, Pancakes, Pastis, Vacation

Empire Cake, New York NY

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Empire Cake

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Almond Croissant

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Pumpkin Tea Cake

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Pecan Pie Square

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Red Velvet Cupcake

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Salty Caramel Chocolate Cupcake

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Carrot Cake Cupcake

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An impromptu stop decided upon after a walk on the High Line a quick visit to the well regarded American Bakery “Empire Cake” started our Wednesday and taking a ‘some for now, some for later’ approach to the large selection of cakes and confections it was no surprise that the most traditional items shined the brightest. A cute place, essentially a counter and a case plus a small table, it was a matter of restraint that a half dozen items were selected and opting to enjoy the unfortunately soft and overly sweet almond croissant first everything that followed was good old fashioned sweetness ranging from the glazed tea cake loaded with autumnal spices through a hefty caramelized square of pecans over short bread and onward to three modestly sized cupcakes, the caramel plunging deep into the cocoa core of the best of the trio with flecks of salt adding nuance and contrast.

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http://empirecake.com

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Empire Cake, Food, New York, Vacation

The Musket Room, New York NY

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The Musket Room

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Strawberry Shrub, Egg White, Gin, Vermouth

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Sourdough Baguette, Gluten Free, Bacon Cheese, Whole Wheat with Butter and Black Salt

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Mushroom Custard, Raw Mushroom, Herbs

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Quail, Blackberries, Bread Sauce, Roasted Onions

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Seared Foie Gras, Torchon, Brioche, Peaches, Mandarin

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New Zealand Red Deer with Flavors of Gin

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Duck, Zucchini, Huckleberries, Turnip, Jus

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Pistachio custard, cherries and caramel

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Chocolate torte, black mint ice cream and mascarpone

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Cocoa Cashew Macaron

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Newly pinned with a Michelin Star only days before our arrival in Manhattan but with reservations made a month prior I knew The Musket Room was going to be hopping, a fact confirmed when we arrived for our 8:30 reservation to find the bar 3-deep and people standing outside, our table directly juxtaposing said bar and the stone walls bouncing sound like an amp. At first debating taking the party elsewhere but eventually deciding to stick to the plan as we’d already had to make last minute alterations due to The Elm it took little time to be seated at the snug two top and with a young man named Matt clearly struggling to keep up with the crush service was surprisingly efficient with small gaffs here and there – a trend that carried over directly to Matt Lambert’s unconventional cuisine. Beginning first with a selection of breads from which you are oddly given a ‘choice’ of one or two, myself ignoring such rules and enjoying all but the gluten free which my sister pronounced was akin to removing saliva from your mouth with a sponge, and moving on to appetizers including the ambitiously simple mushroom custard and Au Pied de Cochon gluttonous Foie on Foie on Citrus it was not until primary plates took a turn from the exceptional; the deer with marshmallow tones truly astounding but the duck in a rendered turnip juice smelling akin to bile and entirely off putting, the well prepared protein better off without it. Moving last to desserts, the pistachio custard undoubtedly the better of the two given the variance in textures and sweet/savory balance, and finishing up with a pair of tiny macarons delivered inside a box with a check I can definitely see where and why Michelin opted to award Lambert’s cuisine…I just assume they missed the duck, got all the bread they asked for, and haven’t been back since their review packed the joint.

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http://www.musketroom.com

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Macaroon, New York, Pork, The Musket Room, Vacation

Alder, New York NY

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Alder

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Flight of the Concords – Gin, Concord Grape, Maraschino

51

Whistlin Dixie – Bourbon, Peach, Malt

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Giardiniera

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Pub Cheese – pistachio-white fig, Martin’s “potato chips”

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Foie Gras Terrine – Watermelon, Shiso, Ritz Cracker

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New England clam chowder – Oyster Crackers

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French Onion Soup Rings – Beef Gravy and Gruyere

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Rye Pasta with Shaved Pastrami

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Cinnamon Toast Custard – Cinnamon cereal, candied almonds, apple, coffee

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Rootbeer Pudding – Smoked Cashews

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Having already indulged in wd~50 alumnus Sam Mason’s esoteric ice creams on Monday at OddFellows a pre-dinner stop for cocktails and snacks at the newest creation from Wylie Dufresne was tabbed for Tuesday at the controversial “Alder.” A long restaurant much like Wylie’s Michelin starred space on the Lower East Side following the current trend of white brick and dark wood with largely perfunctory service it was at the restaurant’s opening hour that we arrived and with the place to ourselves at first but the room quickly filling it was no surprise that things got loud, though from a kitchen and cocktails standpoint everything arrived quickly, well prepared, and mostly delightful. Selecting widely with most items clearly meant to be shared and all featuring the chef’s playful ‘mg’ signatures it as not surprising that items such as the foie gras and clam chowder shined but taking the advice of others both myself and my sister were shocked at just how impressive the rye pasta and “soup rings” were; both heavily spiced and seasoned and the pasta truly tasting like the classic deli sandwich and the rings better than any French Onion soup I’ve ever had. Certainly not a ‘cheap’ spot for drinks or snacks but a fun visit none the less a final note should be given to desserts, traditionally a strong suit of Dufresne deciples from Mason to Stupak to Livingston III, the rootbeer pudding should not be missed.

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http://aldernyc.com/

Posted in Alder, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, New York, Vacation

Big Gay Ice Cream Shop, New York NY

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Big Gay Ice Cream Shop

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Salty Pimp – Vanilla, Duce De Leche, Sea Salt, Chocolate Chip

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American Globs – Vanilla Sea Salt, Extra Dark Pretzels, Chocolate Chip

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Growing up in the land of summer soft-serve ice cream where weekly trips to the local ice cream stands were almost ritual I was excited to finally check out the humorously named “Big Gay Ice Cream Shop” and visiting with my sister on her birthday only seemed right, her childhood trips to Mel-o-Cream as frequent as mine. A small space with clever design, the west village location the second of Douglas Quint and Bryan Petroff’s slowly growing truck-to-brick n’ mortar chain, it was admittedly with a bit of surprise that we arrived at the shop to find ourselves the only patrons on what was otherwise a very nice day and with servers genuinely disinterested in doing much beyond the least necessary to make a cone we sat and looked at our two selections for a moment wondering why, precisely, these cones carried a $5+ pricetag compared to the $1 of our youth before taking a bite…and finding no answer. Fun and unique? I guess. Sweet and savory? As much as you’d expect from ice cream and salt. Using words like “artisan” and a Manhattan address to justify a pricetag? Without a doubt.

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http://biggayicecream.com

Posted in Big Gay Ice Cream Shop, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, New York, Vacation

Kin Shop, New York NY

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Kin Shop

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Crispy Roti

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Fried Pork & Crispy Oyster Salad – celery, peanuts, mint & chili-lime vinaigrette

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Duck Laab Salad – toasted rice, ground chili & romaine hearts

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Massaman: Braised Goat Curry – fried shallots, purple yams, mustard greens & toasted coconut

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Jungle Curry – Roasted King Oyster Mushroom, wood ear mushrooms, turnips & Chinese kale

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Coconut Lime Cake

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Deferring to my sister as to where we’d be dining on her 28th birthday I was unsurprised when she suggested Thai over more traditional French or Italian options and having always been interested in how Harold Dieterle, an Italian-American chef trained in Spain, would interpret the cuisine a reservation at Kin Shop was booked…though entirely unnecessarily as no other diner stepped foot in the restaurant during our 75 minute lunch. Casual and comfortable yet at the same time professional and contemporary with excellent service and comfortable banquets amidst wood and white brick it was with minimal efforts that decisions were made amongst the widely varied menu and with the kitchen dedicated only to our plates everything arrived well prepared and coursed out perfectly. Beginning first with a pair of salads, one the heavily spiced but traditional duck laab and the other a crispy meets creamy blend of pork and oysters, then moving on to a pair of curry dishes embracing entirely different ends of the spectrum in terms of spice and style perhaps the most impressive aspect of Dieterle’s take on Thai beyond the obvious ingredient quality was just how familiar everything felt even to the Thai novice, perhaps a gripe to some who crave ‘authenticity’ but a testament to the chef’s skills to those who simply want great food…a fact that held true to the immense slice of decidedly ‘un-thai’birthday cake gifted to us on the house, as well.

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http://kinshopnyc.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Kin Shop, New York, Pork, Vacation

Sugar and Plumm, New York NY

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Sugar and Plumm

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Chicken and Waffles

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Crunch Toast

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Pumpkin, Pistachio, Toasted Caramel Macaron

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Almond Croissant

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Red Velvet Cupcake

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Chocolate Chunk Cookie

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Crème Brulee Cookie

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Referred to as ‘darling’ and ‘cute’ by friends the Upper West Side location of Sugar and Plumm may not seem like the sort of place a 33 year old guy with no children would end up for breakfast on a weekday but with a menu featuring a number of my favorite things and desserts and pastries from Pichet Ong it seemed perfect place for breakfast on my sister’s birthday, a meal enjoyed in the presence of only two other adult diners who also seemed to favor breakfasts closer resembling dessert. Truly a charming space with a candy store up front, hues of white and purple throughout, plus excellent service from a young British woman named Helen it would not take long to make menu decisions and also sampling wide from the pastry case our meal would turn out anything but ‘adult,’ though thoroughly delicious. Beginning first with crispy chicken overlying waffles somewhere between Liege and Brussels given their crunchy sugar batter and moving on to crunchy sticks of custard topped with berry compote both primary plates were small but impactful and speaking to the quality of the pastries everything but the flaccid almond croissant was exquisite; the dense cocoa cupcake with creamy icing and a cookie halfway between a snickerdoodle and a bruleed egg custard a ‘destination’ sort of item, itself worth the trip up Amsterdam.

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http://www.sugarandplumm.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Macaroon, New York, Sugar and Plumm, Vacation, Waffles

Delicatessen, New York NY

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Delicatessen

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Brioche French Toast

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La Colombe Coffee

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Awaking early as ever for a morning run while my sister slept in Wednesday began at SoHo’s Delicatessen, a long and narrow space with an unfortunately limited breakfast menu despite what is posted on the website but whose owner was present, pleasant, and actually a downright delightful conversationalist as I sat working on my laptop. A friendly vibe but quiet in the morning as servers whose accents seem culled from Goodfellas circulated refilling coffee and water it would not be long before my lone plate of the morning arrived in the form of two thick slices of golden brioche French toast with pure maple syrup and although it was not the item for which I’d came the toast proved well done, a custard center beneath a crunchy façade and a veritable bargain at $9.

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http://www.delicatessennyc.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Delicatessen, Food, French Toast, New York, Vacation

The Elm, Brooklyn New York

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The Elm

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Black Olive Financier with Yuzu Ricotta

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Complimentary Eric Bordelet “Sidre Tendre Doux” 2011

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French Rye Baguette with Salted Cultured Butter

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Margarita

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Foie Gras – Concord Grape Gelee, Peanut, Ginger with Brioche

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Gnudi – Scallop Tom Yum, Baby Leek, Lime

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Duck – Black Mission Fig, Toasted Honey

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Garden – Vegetables and Fruits en Cocotte

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Chicken – Kieve Style with Garlic Potato Foam

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Black Forest – Sour Cherry, Dark Chocolate Brownie, Cherry Kirsch

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Eton Mess – Strawberry, Violet Crème, Brown Butter

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Peaches & Cream – Basil Granite, Ginger, Roasted Peach Ice Cream

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Smoked Cream Sable and Apricot Gelee

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Ever fascinated with the career of Paul Liebrandt and having planned to visit his new ‘casual’ Brooklyn restaurant, The Elm, for my sister’s birthday only to receive a cancellation notice 72 hours prior as the restaurant was reserved for an “industry event” it was promised to us that the restaurant would ‘fit us in’ the day prior and do something ‘extra special’ – and by that I guess they meant spelling out happy birthday on a dessert place, presenting a complimentary glass of cider, and otherwise treating us with the same aloof and indifferent service as every other patron at the Brooklyn basement locale. Trendy both in design and diners with an excellent cocktail program and the considerable talents of the man in charge it should really come as no surprise to anyone that The Elm has garnered significant praise since opening its doors and true to form each and every plate that crossed the table was immaculate in sourcing, preparation, and presentation with the torchon of foie gras amongst the most elegant and delicate I’ve tasted to date and with flavors as diverse as tom yum and cherry kirsch making appearances Liebrandt once again proved every bit the equal to Gagnaire in terms of immersing you in his method with stunning results. Highly praised and excellent in price considering the location and persons involved the one seeming-outlier on the menu was a $48 dish simply described as “Garden” and yet with 47 individually prepared fruit and vegetable selections served in tomato water and lemon confit butter it was also one of the best things I’ve tasted this year; a tribute to freshness and the sort of dish that makes you rethink ‘dining’ in general and the sort of dish that makes you wonder just how long the executive chef can reign in his skill sets for food that is hardly casual and service that is perhaps a bit too much so.

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http://theelmnyc.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Brooklyn, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, New York, The Elm, Vacation

OddFellows Ice Cream Co, Brooklyn NY

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OddFellows

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Tastes – PB&J, Sprinkles,EVOO, Thai Iced Tea, Spiced Cherry, Apple Cider

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Chorizo Caramel and Burnt Caramel on Waffle cone

13

Buttermilk Spiced Apple and Maple Bacon Pecan in a bowl

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Whether on vacation or back at home it takes something special to see me walking in the rain and with that in mind as we walked through Williamsburg during a sudden storm without umbrellas the onus was placed squarely on the shoulders of Sam Mason and his team at OddFellows to be exceptional, a challenge to which the former wd~50 chef thankfully proved capable. Focused not only on the artisan but also on the interesting with flavors ranging from punchy Apple Cider and subtle Thai Iced Tea to smoky Chorizo Caramel and PB&J so yeasty that one would swear there was discarded crust dissolved in the house pasteurized mix it was with good humor that the smiling staff allowed us to sample our way through each of the day’s selections before settling on four small scoops and a house made waffle cone which we slowly enjoyed until the storm passed, each bite creamy and complex leading to smiles almost as large as that of the creepy monkey guarding the door.

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http://www.oddfellowsnyc.com/

Posted in Brooklyn, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, New York, OddFellows, OddFellows Ice Cream, OddFellows Ice Cream Co, Vacation

Benoit, New York NY

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Benoit

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Gougeres

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Baguette and Butter

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Celery Root Remoulade with Green Apple, Rillettes du Porc, Daurade Tartare, Boudin Noir Parmentier, Brandade de Morue

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Pate en Croute with Cornichons and Onions

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Duck and Foie Gras Terrine with Pear and Apple Chutney, Toasted Brioche

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Quenelles de Brochet with Nantua Sauce

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Traditional Cassoulet with Bacon, Sausage, Belly, Duck Confit

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Fall Vegetable and Chestnut Cookpot

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Chocolate Souffle

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Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream with Souffle

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Mille-Feuille

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Baba au Rhum

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Known as one of Midtown’s hottest spots for “Power Lunch” and frequented by movers and shakers for classic French bistro fare from the mind of Alain Ducasse Benoit was decided on as an midday meal for three on Monday based on three things – foie gras, brandade, and soufflé – though quenelles, cassoulet, mille feuille, and baba au rhum did not hurt the cause. Ever the classy space with checkerboard floors, white tablecloths, a sky-blue ceiling, floral flourishes, and a wait staff seemingly plucked from the streets of Paris it should go without saying that much of the appeal of Benoit is that of the scene but with a menu of time honored recipes executed under the guidance of Philippe Bertineau that truly make the restaurant memorable. Beginning simply enough with a plate of melting gougere and moving onward to a quintet of small bites including a shockingly delicious raw daurade along with the expectedly bold boudin and branade before heading towards hefty courses including house-made pate and foie gras it was not until the cassoulet and quenelles arrived that we knew we had overordered but with the cookpot providing a bit of levity all was well as we sat, laughed, and picked through fatty pork belly and melting duck confit knowing that dessert was a must, all three of us selecting a different confection and all three Ducasse classics more than meeting expectations, from the fluffy soufflé to the a la minute mille feuille to the last boozy bite of Baba.

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www.benoitny.com

Posted in Benoit, Bread Basket, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Lobster, New York, Pork, Souffle, Vacation

Cafeteria, New York NY

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Cafeteria

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White Chocolate Raspberry Bread Pudding

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Chicken and Waffles – Cheddar Tabasco Waffle, Crispy Sage, Grilled Lemon, Chili Butter and Maple Jus

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Croissant French Toast with Fresh Berries, Mascarpone Cream, Toasted Almond Crumble

With my sister intentionally neglecting to suffer the lines at Dominique Ansel the decision was made to meet up at 24/7 Chelsea hotspot ‘Cafeteria’ for breakfast and although I’d admittedly heard some mixed things about service versus scene our visit really could not have been more pleasant, the atmosphere light, the service jovial, and the food featuring fun takes on American comfort foods with everything from pancakes and French toast to steaks and burgers to the complete dessert menu available all day and all night. Perhaps benefitting from an 8am shift change when both kitchen and front of house were fresh with servers zipping around the half-filled room it would be a matter of moments after taking a seat in a cozy back corner before Jorge visited our table and with a bit of chatter about daily specials menus were presented, decisions came by with some difficulty as several options looked tempting, and orders were placed – the food arriving fifteen minutes later while my sister and I watched the fashionable foot traffic on 7th Avenue. Happy to indulge, especially at breakfast, but with an eye on both lunch and dinner it was with some restraint that we opted to limit the order to two plates and one dessert sticking to the tried and true we were well rewarded as all three items shined; the croissant French toast a buttery day-old saturated through with eggy custard, the chicken and waffles defiantly spicy and enormous with the syrup and lemon proving an ample foil, and the bread pudding smooth and decadent, crowned with ice cream even at 9am.

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http://www.cafeteriagroup.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Cafeteria, Croissant, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Ice Cream, New York, Vacation, Waffles