Endo Edibles

September 3, 2014
11:54 AM
by: Uhockey

Graze, Madison WI

Graze

Charcuterie and Cheese – Carr Valley Mobay (sheep and goat), Hook’s 15-yr Cheddar (cow), Hook’s Little Boy Blue (cow), Willow Creek Pate de Campagne (Berkshire Pork, Chicken Liver, Cognac, Quatre Epices), Oxheart Farm’s Salt Cured Pork Culatello with Sauce Grebiche, Garlic Ciabatta, Fig Toast, Bread and Butter Pickles, Tomato Jam

Pork Buns – pork belly, pickled vegetables, hoisin

Fried Cesar’s Cheese Curds – vodka batter, house ranch

Soft Pretzel – sea salt, house mustards, Widmer’s cheese

Hickory Nut Bourbon-Caramel Pie

Located just steps from the capital and owned by the team behind L’Etoile, my dinner destination later that evening, it was to Graze that my lunch plans led me after a tour of Camp Randall Stadium and although expediting from the kitchen would prove oddly paced, at best, my meal in the sunbathed space left very little to be desired. Featuring a farm-fresh menu focused heavily on Wisconsin purveyors with floor-to-(20+foot)-ceiling windows offering wide views of the midday bustle outside it was near the rear of the restaurant that I opted for a shaded seat and with a menu of daily specials alongside several signatures a three-course meal of small plates was created, the service itself perfectly pleasant in offering up apologies for long delays from a kitchen that was dreadfully slow in preparing something as simple as a charcuterie board despite the restaurant being less than 1/3 full. Certainly not starving after a hearty breakfast it was after nearly thirty-five minutes that my selection of three cheeses and two meats with several house-made accoutrements arrived and with each item tallying $3-to-$3.50 aside from the ultra-aged cheddar I’ll simply say the additional $5 surcharge was entirely worthwhile, a sharp bite to the golden wedge better than any I tasted in England and just inching out the pate de Campagne for best thing on the pig-shaped board. Having mentioned issues with the kitchen I was unfortunately only a quarter into the charcuterie when my three hot plates arrived and setting aside the cold board with a bit of annoyance I found even more frustration with the overcooked pork belly, a limp and flavorless bao doing little to improve the flavor as pickled cabbage dominated each bite. Moving past the buns to things far superior it was next in Graze’s signature curds that I did partake and squeaky-as-hell with plenty of brine I greedily dipped each bite in ranch – a flavor I generally dislike adding an aromatic finish to each bite. No less impressed by a salty pretzel with delicate chew beneath a soft, golden top it was back to the charcuterie that I turned as plates were collected and opting for one of three desserts another long delay would transpire, the twenty minutes thankfully justified by a hot slice of pie loaded with nuts and molten caramel atop a crisp and buttery crust.

RECOMMENDED: Hook’s 15-year cheddar, Cheese curds, Hickory Nut Bourbon-Caramel Pie.

AVOID: Pork Buns, Parking in a time-limited space.

TIP: Clearly a favorite of locals and visitors I was happy to fill out a comment card dropped-off with the bill and much to my surprise an E-mail was received from Ms. Corinne Lake, PR & Outreach Assistant, just 24-hours later thanking me for my comments – a strong commitment to customer service and using such comments to improve the experience part of her response with no excuses made, a classy move to say the very least – the next time I’m in town the brunch chicken and waffles has my name all over it.

http://www.grazemadison.com/

Posted in Dessert, Food, Graze, Madison, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
8:23 AM
by: Uhockey

Batch Bakehouse, Madison WI

Batch Bakehouse

Carrot Cake Cupcake with Cream Cheese Frosting

Bourbon Pecan and Salted Caramel Danish

Strawberries and Cream Buttercake

Monkey Bread

Almond Croissant

Located at 1402 Williamson Street and as such a logical follow-up to breakfast at Lazy Janes it was a short walk in the sun to Batch Bakehouse and with a selection of pastries even more sizable than the place I’d just been it was with much hemming-and-hawing that selections were made, another five pastries joining leftovers from Lazy Janes in a smorgasbord of sweets to be consumed throughout the course of the day. Trending far more artisan than its nearby neighbor with French techniques infusing classics from the American cookbook and the bakers themselves acting as servers it was only after several questions that I eventually settled on an order far smaller than I should have liked and beginning my tasting at the small countertop with a moist carrot cake topped in tangy cream cheese I knew right away that none of this one was leaving the store – a similar sentiment shared by later samples, though each was indeed eaten only in part with the rest saved for a later day snack. Moving from cupcake to the only item that would prove the least bit dull, suffice it to say that monkey bread is found better elsewhere, but moving on to arching layers not the least bit burdened by frangipane beneath a shattering shell I’d be really surprised if a better almond croissant can be found in town. Admittedly a bit sugar-saturated at this point it was onward to the dense butter cake that I progressed and, although enthusiasts from the Show Me State may claim the rounded muffin to be unauthentic, the creamy texture was divine – a similar superlative soon to be lavished on the buttery Danish with flavors both savory and sweet to spare, a light smokiness from the baked bourbon tickling the palate as candied pecans crunched with each bite.

RECOMMENDED: Carrot Cake Cupcake, Bourbon Pecan and Salted Caramel Danish, Buttercake.

AVOID: Certainly not shabby, but not nearly as good as the one from a day earlier at Milwaukee’s Blue’s Egg I imagine the Monkey Bread would have been much better warm, an option unfortunately declined when I inquired as the restaurant lacks reheating capabilities.

TIP: Closed on Monday but open from 7am to 6pm the rest of the week with fresh items baked throughout the day those looking for good coffee can find Intelligentsia here, though with Wi-Fi unavailable those looking to get some work done while enjoying coffee and pastry would be wise to bring their own access.

http://batchbakehouse.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Croissant, cupcakes, Dessert, Food, Madison, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 3, 2014
7:38 AM
by: Uhockey

Lazy Jane’s Cafe, Madison WI

Lazy Jane’s Café

Vanilla Coffee, Hazelnut Coffee, Organic French Roast, Light Roast Italian

Smores Scone

Maple Walnut Scone

Blueberry Scone

Morning Bun

Almond Croissant

Blueberry Pancakes

Waking up early for a morning run around Madison it was after nearly ten miles followed by a quick shower that I made my way to kitschy and cozy Lazy Jane’s Café and although I unfortunately forgot to return to the second-hand store next door before departing town my sixty minute stay at the restaurant itself was definitely a delight, the charming décor only bested by fresh baked goods and service with a smile. Perhaps a bit “off the beaten path” and almost entirely populated by locals with counter service and self seating both upstairs and down it was to a wide variety of sandwiches, eggs, and entrees that I was tempted on arrival but focusing largely on pastry my six-part order was crafted, the first five items from the cooling racks while a daily special of blueberry studded flapjacks was readied on the griddle. Obviously prone to overindulgence in a place with four options of coffee with limitless refills for just $1.75 it was in one cup of each that I entrusted my thirst and with both flavored options proving quite subtle I was impressed by them all, the light roast pairing best with an opening volley of three scones from which only the overly rich s’mores would prove less than textbook in texture, though flavors were all spot-on. Underwhelmed by a croissant that was unfortunately lacking in lamination but finding reprieve in a morning bun rife with cinnamon and sugar it was finally after thirty minutes that my name was called from the kitchen and procuring my pancakes from the window before slathering them with pure maple syrup I was soon quite glad I’d only eaten half of each pastry, the bursting berries amidst fluffy buttermilk batter proving irresistible with each subsequent bite.

RECOMMENDED: Blueberry Pancakes – a daily special, Maple Walnut Scone, Blueberry (or, likely, any seasonal fruit) Scone.

AVOID: S’mores Scone, Almond Croissant.

TIP: Lacking a website with hours 7a-3p M-F and 8a-2p on weekends those desiring a specific item are well advised to call about availability – the strict cash only policy easily remedied by an on-site ATM for those who arrive unprepared.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lazy-Janes-Cafe/58012837020

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Croissant, Dessert, Food, Lazy Jane's Cafe, Madison, Pancakes, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 2, 2014
6:59 PM
by: Uhockey

Heritage Tavern, Madison WI

Heritage Tavern

Cheese Plate – Alemar Camembert, Satrori Extra Aged Goat Cheese, Hooks Paradise Blue Cheese, Poppyseed Crackers, Fruit Bread, Figs, Mustard, Pickled Radishes

Berries, Chocolate, and Cream – Chocolate Cake, Macerated Mixed Berries, Vanilla Cream, Strawberry Ice Cream, Roasted Almond

Caramel Profiteroles – Wisconsin Maple Ice Cream, Chantilly Cream, Cardamaro Caramel, Toasted Pecan

Unabashedly willing to dine in excess when visiting a new city it was only as I was setting my GPS back to the hotel after dinner at A Pig in a Fur Coat that I noted the late hours of Heritage Tavern, a quick reroute leading me past the illuminated capital to the understated front door just ten minutes later. Old-school in ambiance with locally sourced ingredients and craft cocktails at its core it was with options for bar seating that overlooks an open kitchen versus a more subdued dining room that I was presented on entry and eventually opting for the latter as the bar was still bustling my next sixty minutes was an utterly delightful experience, the service matching Chef Fox’s whimsical yet refined restaurant. Having already partaken in several meals that day with more planned for the next it was with eyes focused largely on dessert that I approached the ever changing menu and although tempted mightily by several styles of pork and local produce I (for once) showed some restraint, the Wisconsin cheese plate and a duo of desserts arriving with excellent pacing and presentations on par. Obviously leaning towards bold flavors with bloomy Camembert, briny goat cheese, and a particularly punchy blue suffice it to say that I’d have liked the cheeses served with larger portions of accoutrements given the $18 tariff, but with each option save for overly-dry fruit bread proving reference standard this is a small quibble – the following $13-$14 desserts each excessively portioned and so rich that either could have easily been shared…though, at least in the case of the caramel-topped maple profiteroles resting in a pool of silky Chantilly, certainly not by me.

RECOMMENDED: Profiteroles, potentially the best I’ve ever had, and a virtual lock for my year-end “best of.”

AVOID: Ordering the cheeses with just water to drink was partially my fault, though a limited amount of accoutrements did not help – either some wine or a few more figs, jams, or pickles would have gone a long way to tempering the aggressive flavor profile between bites.

TIP: Featuring several “family style” dishes, including pigs from Chef Fox’s own farm plus a $25 sundae, Heritage Tavern is the sort of place for which it is best to gather a group – even the small plates menu is far too diverse for one person to properly experience on his or her own.

http://heritagetavern.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Dessert, Food, Heritage Tavern, Ice Cream, Madison, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 2, 2014
6:32 PM
by: Uhockey

A Pig In A Fur Coat, Madison WI

A Pig in a Fur Coat

Rabbit Rillette – Pistachio and Cherries

Poutine – Foie Gras, Cheese Curds, Poutine Sauce

Ravioli – Duck Egg, Bacon, Ricotta, Brussels Sprouts, Brown Butter

Foie Gras Mousse – Profitteroles, Lardo, Fig

Octopus – Mussels, Clams, Swiss Chard, Crazy Water, Leeks

Guinea Fowl – Chorizo, Fregola, Summer Squash, Bacon, Leeks, Feta

Porchetta – Potato, Anaheim Pepper, ‘nduja, almond

Sicilian Sfingi – Chocolate, Orange

Planned as a meet-and-eat with University of Wisconsin students whose recommendations helped guide me to several great bakeries throughout the state capital, my 7:00pm arrival at Pig in a Fur Coat found two new friends waiting on the restaurant’s patio and transitioning indoors to a high-top communal table beneath Edison bulbs juxtaposing the small bar it would be mere moments before our server arrived, a menu featuring no less than sixteen selections I’d have gladly eaten soon presenting us with tough choices from which our eight course experience was made. Best described as cozy without being cramped and featuring portions far larger than one would expect given the price-point or quality of cuisine it was with a giant jar of potted rabbit that our meal began and immediately struck by the rodent’s nutty sapor my expectations for the rest of the cuisine rose substantially, a follow-up plate of crispy fries topped with squeaky curds and a sizable slice of seared liver further upping the ante without a bit of sogginess to be found. To this point unexposed to the restaurant’s signature ingredient but soon to be treated to a plethora of pork it was next a small pocket of yolky ravioli that arrived and with flavors harkening breakfast I was again left smiling, a follow-up of terrine-topped choux draped in briny pork fat and reined in by balsamic perhaps the best plate of the night. Stumbling next with overcooked octopus and guinea fowl that got lost in everything else on the plate it was unsurprisingly with pork that Chef Bonanno righted the ship and although seemingly a bit aggressive given accoutrements of peppers and Calabrian sausage the flavor was actually quite restrained, a light bit of smoke set against creamy potatoes and ample aromatics arriving from the porchetta itself. Unfortunately not currently serving their oft-raved bread pudding it was finally in a quartet of donuts that our meal would end and with rich chocolate poured over each bite as light notes of citrus occasionally peaked through I was admittedly glad when my tablemates stated they were too full for more than one, the last golden orb gobbled up with glee before the modest bill was paid.

RECOMMENDED: Rabbit Rillette, Foie Gras Mousse, Porchetta, Poutine.

AVOID: Octopus was unfortunately dried out and Guinea Fowl got lost in the mix, flavor nearly indistinguishable amidst two styles of pork and the particularly poignant cheese.

TIP: Offering a tasting menu based on the nightly selections but otherwise left to the chef’s discretion I’d have certainly gone that route if I were not dining with a group, the bargain basement price quoted at a mere $65 for “six or seven courses” on the evening I was there.

http://apiginafurcoat.com/

Posted in A Pig In A Fur Coat, Dessert, Foie, Food, Madison, Octopus, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 2, 2014
2:28 PM
by: Uhockey

Greenbush Bakery, Madison WI

Greenbush Bakery

Apple Fritter

Almond Kringle

Sour Cream Old Fashioned

Blueberry Cake Donut

Westward bound for Madison with dinner plans bumped back to seven it was to 1305 Regent Street that I set my GPS and arriving at Greenbush Bakery just after 3:00pm it was much to my surprise that the doughnuts were still frying fresh, the store’s two clerks actually in back as I entered, thus allowing me a few minutes to peruse before anyone even realized I’d arrived. Every bit a mom n’ pop spot and the sort of place that looks as though it has “been there fooorrrrrever” to feed little Badgers and alumni alike it was first with a startle and then a smile that my server eventually came around the corner and much to my delight it was almost as if he was baring gifts, a full tray of Frisbee-sized fritters glistening beneath wet glaze and still hot to the touch. Quick to procure one $5 fritter and adding on two more $1 rings plus a Wisconsin-staple “Kringle” before paying my thanks and the tab it was immediately to the sunny street that I progressed and with my hotel mere moments away it was just as glaze had set that I dug in, the crispy rim of cinnamon and sugar shattering to pockets of apple amidst lightly fried dough. Truly a textbook fritter without even a hint of oiliness it was likely an effect of such a stellar opening volley that made both the blueberry cake and old fashioned seem rather pedestrian by comparison but with textures and flavor far superior to Milwaukee’s Holey Moley at nearly half the price one would still be hard pressed to complain – my only regret being the valuable stomach space filled, thus limiting my indulgence in the almond stuffed kringle whose buttery layers of lamination roused memories of a Mardi Gras King Cake without one ounce of guilt for eating it “out of season.”

RECOMMENDED: Apple Fritter, Kringle.

AVOID: Blueberry Cake was the ‘standard’ mix used at any number of bakeries and although better than most, still somewhat artificial and underwhelming compared to the rest.

TIP: Open from 6:00am until midnight or later Tuesday through Sunday and at 8:30 on Monday with fresh items replenished as needed there is almost no ‘wrong’ time to visit Greenbush – just times ‘more right’ than others, like when the fritters are fresh from the fryer.

http://www.facebook.com/GreenbushBakery

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Greenbush Bakery, Madison, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 2, 2014
11:51 AM
by: Uhockey

The Comet Cafe, Milwaukee WI

The Comet Café

Duck Confit Poutine with Fontina Cheese and Beer Gravy

AJ’s Compact Turkey Dinner – Beer Battered Slow roasted Turkey, Sage Stuffing, Cheesy Mashed Potatoes

Creamy Tomato Soup and Sauteed Zucchini

Sourcream Pancake

Blueberry Pie

Having come to terms with the fact that ‘hipster’ service has spread from coast-to-coast and even managed to infest much of the Midwest I was admittedly forewarned not to expect much from my ‘experience’ at Comet Café but with rumors of excellent upscale comfort food and some of the region’s best pies I decided I could stomach a bit of feigned disinterest before departing for Madison, the resultant meal providing exactly what I was promised from the moment I sat down until the second I settled the tab. Every bit the trendy space with exposed ceilings and reclaimed wood surrounding skinny jeans, plenty of ink, plus a menu dotted in words like “craft,” “seasonal,” “scratch,” and “local” it was only after declining a beer and waiting for water that I put together my order and requesting items to be coursed out appropriately it would not be long before my first plate arrived, the crispy confit melded with cheese decidedly delicious while thin ‘ gravy’ rendered all but the highest piled fries into a soggy mess of hops and starch. Moving next to the clever “turkey dinner,” which was joined by soggy squash and a cup of impressive tomato soup, it was just under forty minutes after sitting down that Comet Café finally took flight and with each golden ball sporting a surprisingly light coating atop a nearly molten core one really couldn’t help but smile, the tender turkey melding seamlessly with stuffing and potatoes amidst the sort of gravy quick to rouse memories of Thanksgivings back home. Unable to pass up pancakes, particularly at a place known to be a curator of comfort foods, it was onward to a large flapjack moistened with sourcream, butter, and plenty of pure maple syrup that my meal progressed and although I should have liked to have eaten the whole hubcap-sized thing I instead showed restraint, a half of it returned to the kitchen so that I could instead indulge in a seasonal slice of pie so stuffed with fresh blueberries atop a pure butter crust that I nearly ordered another to go, my substantial dining plans just a few hours later the only thing holding me back.

RECOMMENDED: Seasonal Pie, Compact Turkey Dinner.

AVOID: Duck Confit Poutine is probably a dish best shared as there is too little duck and far too many fries, the later unable to stand up to such runny gravy and thus turning to soup that simply grows tedious with each successive bite.

TIP: Deriving all their baked goods from a sister restaurant called Honey Pie it was only a lack of time that prevented me from visiting the later on my trip back to Chicago, rumors of far superior service and a larger selection of sweets making it a must visit for my next trip to town.

http://www.thecometcafe.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Coffee, Comet Cafe, Dessert, Food, Milwaukee, Pancakes, The Comet Cafe, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 2, 2014
8:18 AM
by: Uhockey

Holey Moley Coffee + Doughnuts, Milwaukee WI

Holey Moley Coffee + Doughnuts

Apple Fritter

Fat Elvis

Crème Brulee

S’mores

Bourbon Indonesian Vanilla

C+DD – Coffee and Doughnut, Doughnut

Picked as my second stop in Milwaukee given the impressive initial reviews and a planned visit to the Public Museum before lunch it was just after 9am that I strolled into Holey Moley Coffee + Doughnuts and although the small kiosk was unexpectedly housed in a large corporate building the service could not have been more Midwestern friendly, the young lady all smiles as she boxed up a half-dozen all-natural doughnuts that would unfortunately prove far less impressive than the service or supposedly local, seasonal approach. Obviously a whimsical space with doughnuts divided into sections sporting titles like “Easy-Peasy,” “Hunky-Dory,” or “Fancy-Schmancy” and prices ranging from $1.75 to $3.00 it was with a nearly $15 bill paid that I took my bounty to the streets and beginning first with a glazed vanilla ring I knew right way I was in trouble, the crumb decidedly dense with the dough almost flavorless as taste relied entirely on subtly sweet glaze. Moving on to two more glazed options with only a quarter of each tasted before depositing the rest in the trash I personally found the coffee glaze to be a touch too bitter and while the marshmallow kissed S’mores was at least flavored nicely I simply couldn’t get past the cake, a pervasive dryness I’d typically associate with day-olds had the signage inside not suggested ‘fresh daily.’ Moving next to a fritter that was unfortunately flaccid despite ample amounts of apple and plenty of cinnamon it was finally in a duo of filled options that Holey Moley found its footing and with both the banana pudding and vanilla custard serving to correct the issue of dryness I particularly enjoyed the Crème Brulee, a subtle sweetness imbuing the center while the smoky top-coat shattered like glass to add exactly the sort of texture the fritter had so sorely lacked.

RECOMMENDED: Crème Brulee, Fat Elvis.

AVOID: Glazed options lack imagination and rely entirely on the glaze to impart flavor, a cheap trick to say the least – particularly considering the high costs.

TIP: Changing up options by season and offering different fritters each day it seems likely that there are times when Holey Moley might prove better than on the day of my visit but with none of the options particularly impressive on a national scale I’d be hard pressed to return in order to find out, particularly as a tourist when both Madison and Chicago offered far better fried treats less than 100 miles away.

http://holeymoleydoughnuts.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Dessert, Food, Holey Moley, Holey Moley Coffee + Doughnuts, Milwaukee, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 2, 2014
7:57 AM
by: Uhockey

Blue’s Egg, Milwaukee WI

Blue’s Egg

Grapes

Apple Cheesecake Coffee Cake

Monkey Bread “Crunked” with whiskey sauce

Berry Smothered French Toast with almond crumble and white chocolate sauce, plus real maple syrup for $1

Key Lime Thumbprint, Chocolate Chippers, Maple Bacon Sugar Cookie

Bottomless Coffee…and one more for the road, coffee to go

Making my first trip to the state of Wisconsin since I was two years old it was a smooth drive after my morning run that saw me arrive quite hungry at Blue’s Egg, an unassuming Milwaukee diner celebrated for its locally sourced, scratch-baked interpretations of American breakfast and lunch staples. Every bit a ‘locals only’ spot where I seemed to be the only person unknown to the smiling staff I was none-the-less greeted like an old friend on entry and soon finding myself seated at a cozy two-top it was with wide eyes that I perused the pastry case and a menu where no less than a dozen items sounded quite good. Truly a space where home-style service is attuned to the needs of each table it was with the first of several cups of strong coffee that my meal began and eventually having to ask my server to slow down in order to maintain my balance of sweetener it would not be long before the first of my food arrived, a duo of apple and cream cheese layered coffeecake proving quite nice while Blue’s signature monkey bread with the $1 “crunked” supplement was even better, each already buttery bite only improved by a boozy sauce balanced out my Wisconsin cream. Already impressed it would not be long before my ‘main course’ arrived and although the pork came heavily recommended (and looked lovely at the table beside me) my palate again skewed sweet, the ‘Smothered’ French Toast gilded with locally sourced maple syrup supple and golden beneath a mountain of berries and crispy cookie crumble. Happily sated at this point but easily sold on a trio of $1 sweets by my server who’d already prepared me a cup of coffee to go it was finally in the cookie plate that I indulged and although both the chocolate chip bites and savory sugar cookie were nice it was the Key Lime custard that shined brightest, the flavors harkening something from Florida as opposed to Milwaukee but tangy and delicious none the less.

RECOMMENDED: Crunked Monkey Bread, Smothered French Toast, Key Lime Thumbprint.

AVOID: N/A.

TIP: One of those rare places easily flies under the tourist radar suffice it to say that Blue’s was nearly filled to its deceptively large capacity when I left at 9:00am and although a bit far from the city center those seeking a great breakfast at a fair price with service best described as the Midwest at its Best are well advised to make the trip, ideally on a weekday or early on a weekend as I hear rumor that waits can extend to an hour on Saturday and Sunday, both.

http://www.bluesegg.com/

Posted in Blue's, Blue's Egg, Breakfast, Coffee, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Milwaukee, Pork, Vacation, Wisconsin

September 1, 2014
5:35 PM
by: Uhockey

Cocello, Chicago IL

Cocello

Fennel Focaccia and Butter

Meatball Arrabbiata – parmesan, San Marzano tomatoes

Polenta Fritta – poached egg, truffle

Egg Yolk Raviolo – ricotta, brown butter

Cacio e Pepe – black pepper, pecorino romano

Pasta alle Amatriciana – guanciale, roasted tomato

Tagliatelle – wild mushrooms, oregano, parmesan

Porchetta – stuffed pork belly, rosemary, roasted garlic

Balsamic-Glazed Red Onions, thyme

Anson Mills Polenta, goat butter

Lemon Panna Cotta with Prosecco Granita

Torta di Olio d’Oliva – Whipped Mascarpone, Orange Zest

Tiramisu – Espresso Soaked Lady Fingers, Mascarpone, Marsala Meringue

An Italian re-appropriation of the space once home to the much maligned Dillman’s it was for Labor Day dinner that three of us sat down at Cocello and much like each of my Brendan Sodikoff experiences both before and after the results of the evening were superb, a polished service team with impressive knowledge of the menu guiding us through a dozen dishes amidst the confines of one of the city’s most beautiful spaces to dine. Beginning first with crusty bread speckled with fennel amidst a wispy crumb alongside locally sourced butter it would not be long after ordering that our first round would arrive and with tender meatballs set in a sauce of hand-crushed tomatoes more bread immediately became requisite, the last drop mopped up as a duo of egg dishes arrived with yolks ready to be ruptured, the golden yolks pouring forth to satisfied smiles. Requesting round two to be entirely pasta based it was in a trio of handmade noodles that we invested our appetites and although both the Cacio e Pepe and Tagliatelle were al dente and delicious the favorite of the group was undoubtedly the Amatriciana whose cured pork jowl imbued the lightly smoked tomatoes with an earthy, aromatic sapor. Rounding out the savories with one of the fattiest cuts of porchetta I’ve ever experienced alongside a small bowl of red onions cooked in aged balsamic and stick-a-spoon-up-straight polenta it was onward to desserts that we progressed and unable to decide amongst the three nightly offering an “I’ll take the lot” approach was well rewarded, the tangy panna cotta smooth as silk while crumbly olive oil cake and a bruleed goblet of tiramisu each proved to be amongst the best I’ve experienced of either.

RECOMMENDED: Egg Yolk Raviolo, Pasta alle Amatriciana, Balsamic-Glazed Red Onions, Tiramisu.

AVOID: Filling up on the bread…though you’ll probably want to. I know I did.

TIP: Located in an area that seems to lack foot traffic I was admittedly surprised to find Cocello just as empty at dinner as Dillman’s was when I visited at breakfast and while I cannot be certain if this is an everyday thing I’ll simply say that anyone looking for excellent Italian food at a great price would be well served to visit, the room alone worth a look while the food and service are on par with the best Italian spots in the city.

http://cocello.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Chicago, Cocello, Dessert, Food, Illinois, Italian, Pork, Tiramisu, Truffle, Vacation

September 1, 2014
2:04 PM
by: Uhockey

Do-Rite Donuts & Chicken, Chicago IL

Do-Rite Donuts and Fried Chicken

Fried Chicken Sandwich

Baked Chocolate Vegan Donut

Double Chocolate Cake Donut

Not particularly impressed by previous visits to Do-Rite – particularly when compared to Doughnut Vault, Stan’s, or Firecakes – but willing to give their second location a chance it was just thirty minutes before closing on Labor Day that our small group approached the Streeterville storefront and with options expectedly limited only a small sampling would follow, the donuts themselves again nothing special while crispy chicken sandwiches instead stole the show. Decidedly small, though slightly larger than the original, with wallside counter dining and a half-dozen tables outside it was to just two remaining styles of donut that we were greeted and settling on one of each largely out of curiosity the chocolate cake was moist and rich while the baked ‘vegan’ version was a veritable sponge, the cake itself leaving mouths dry while thick frosting was nothing more than nondescriptly sweet. Moving from donuts to chicken fresh from the fryer it was surprisingly with something savory that the donut shop excelled and while my sister’s fiancée enjoyed the spiced up riff on Tennessee ‘hot chicken’ I personally preferred the well brined and double fried bird on a soft roll without the heat, a flavor profile somewhat akin to Chick-fil-A, but far more juicy with a beautiful crackle to the overlying buttermilk lacquered skin.

RECOMMENDED: Chicken Sandwich, and from previous visits the carrot cake and peanut butter and jelly bulls-eye (if available.)

AVOID: Vegan Donut, and from previous visits the Buttermilk Old Fashioned.

TIP: Visited before a screening of Boyhood at the nearby AMC it should be noted that while walking from place to place we encountered a sign for a second Stan’s Doughnuts just down the street, a good sign of things to come for the folks working in and around Streeterville and far more worthy the walk from Michigan Ave than either location of Do-Rite.

http://doritedonuts.com/

Posted in Chicago, Dessert, Do-Rite Donuts, Do-Rite Donuts & Chicken, Food, Illinois, Vacation

September 1, 2014
12:02 PM
by: Uhockey

Bottlefork, Chicago IL

Bottlefork

Bag of Crisps and Eggs – Malt Vinegar Powder and Sea Salt

Popcorn Sweetbreads – Calabrian Chili Aioli

Beef Cheek Poutine – Lemmenec Fries, Wisconsin Curds

Rich Man Po-Boy – Lobster, Foie Gras, Crispy Oysters

Creamy Kale with Duck Egg and Wild Boar Bacon

Fish n’ Chips – Lager Battered Cod, Malt Vinegar Crisps, Slaw

Smoked Corned Beef Brisket Sandwich – Horseradish Coleslaw and White Cheddar

Tots – Pimento Cheese Sauce

Pretzel Caramel + Chocolate Fudge + Buffalo Sweat Stout Sundae / Bourbon Peach + Michigan Blueberry + Candied Pecan Sundae / Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler

Humbled by the heat and humidity combined with late nights and substantial dining since arriving in Chicago on Saturday it was with scaled back plans that Labor Day arrived and opting to sleep in before hitting the gym I was admittedly quite famished as we approached Bottklefork, the long and narrow River North restaurant toqued by former Allium Chef Kevin Hickey. Designed in the hip, gastropub style all too familiar to folks interested in dining out these days and owned by the men behind hotspots Rockit and Sunda it was just past noon when our trio was seated in a plush booth and quickly greeted by a charming server who kept beverages brimming throughout our meal a three-course, eleven plate order unfolded – the tableside-shaken chips with a runny egg offered gratis to those using their smartphone to check-in. Perhaps more full than usual as many restaurants in the area were closed for the holiday it was apparent early on that the open kitchen was teeming with activity and as appetizers arrived no more than ten minutes after ordering both the spicy sweetbreads and upscale poutine were exemplary, the later featuring double cooked fries more than capable of holding up to thick gravy and squeaky, fresh curds. Unfortunately a bit more limited at lunch than with the substantial dinner menu it was in a trifecta of sandwiches along with two sides that the meal progressed and although the gussied-up Po-Boy was somewhat undersized for the price it was none the less delicious, a similar compliment befitting the substantial fried cod and equally enormous smoky seasoned beef. Further impressed by large, tender tots and kale that tasted akin to a soft-set quiche it was with a trio of desserts that our visit to 441 North Clark Street culminated and although the beer-head foam on our first sundae was not an ideal first bite, once it was mixed in the malt and hops provided an impressive contrast to flavors both salty and sweet, the bourbon similarly gilding the second goblet with an oaky finish while ‘hot and gooey’ cobbler arrived bubbly, sweet, and simply delicious.

RECOMMENDED Beef Cheek Poutine, Fish n’ Chips, Bag of Crisps, Seasonal Sundaes.

AVOID: Tasty but tiny and clearly commanding a premium for ‘exotic’ ingredients I’m glad to have tasted the Po-Boy, though I admittedly wouldn’t order it again.

TIP: Offering a $10 coupon to those signing up online for the restaurant group’s newsletter along with a free bag of crisps for Yelp! Check-in those with a smartphone are behooved to come prepared.

http://bottlefork.com/

Posted in Bottlefork, Chicago, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Illinois, Lobster, Pork, Sweetbreads, Vacation

August 31, 2014
6:07 PM
by: Uhockey

Dusek’s, Chicago IL

Dusek’s

Gemuse Gimlet – Death’s Door Gin, Fresh Line Sour, Ginger, Celery, Hefeweisen

General Tso’s Sweetbreads – wood roasted shishito peppers, pickled daikon, pea tendril

Warm Brandade – pickled red melrose, charred cippollini relish, beef fat chips

Roasted Blue Crab Dip – artichoke relish, housemade pain d’epi

Stuffed Pretzel – beer cheese

Choucroute – duck confit, house garlic sausage, fresh bacon, confit red potatoes, sauerkraut, caraway pickled apple

Iced Coffee

Cookie Dough – fernet chocolate chips, egg custard ice cream, mint, chocolate cremeux, cookie powder

Fruit Loop Donut – lemongrass buttermilk sorbet, guava puree, lychee, freeze dried strawberry and grapefruit powder, coconut

Chocolate sourdough pudding – strawberry water gelee, strawberry air, gingersnap, chocolate syrup, fried strawberry, orange blossom gelato

Moscato d’Asti D.O.C.G

Originally slotted as a late night Saturday stop for four only to be replaced last minute by a trip to The Promontory it was perhaps fate that led me and a friend to our seat at Dusek’s on Sunday night, the “Sunday Noodles” menu at Takashi not particularly interesting when we’d originally planned to partake in some of the chef’s more esoteric options that are apparently only offered on other nights of the week. Located in Pilsen and accessed best by Uber it was just after 6:45 that my buddy and I crossed the threshold of the reinvented space and quickly seated at a charming two-top near the windows farthest from the noise it would not be long before our server stopped by, the beercentric menu of mostly sharable plates described at great lengths with a resultant 8 plate order plus a trio of beverages coursed out just as requested, the timing and presentation of all but one item on par with that of Michelin Starred restaurants despite the otherwise relaxed atmosphere. Truly a restaurant where adventurous palates are rewarded for their efforts it was with a sizeable plate strewn with three spicy sweetbreads that our meal began and with the offal impeccably tender beneath crispy coating we subsequently rolled into a duo of spreads, the potato and salt cod composition a reference standard with housemade crisps while the cheesy crab found levity in tender artichokes that worked nicely with whole wheat bread. Admittedly a bit underwhelmed by a pretzel that I felt could use a bit more salt our savories soon culminated with a large plate of mixed meats and utilizing the combination of ‘kraut and pickled apple to cleanse the palate between bites one would be hard pressed to select a ‘best’ amongst the three – a similar circumstance arising amongst the trio of desserts where only the fact that we were not informed that the lychee was still ‘shell-on’ prevented everything from being perfect, a single bitter bite rectified by striking the “froot loop donut” from our bill and sweetening the deal with free glasses of Moscato to pair with two puddings that no one should miss, the ‘cookie dough’ particularly enthralling with textures galore and the fernet chips melding beautifully with the mint and egg custard into a sort of coffee-tinged note than lingered on the palate for nearly the whole ride home.

RECOMMENDED: Brandade, Blue Crab Dip, Choucroute, Cookie Dough, Chococolate Sourdough Pudding.

AVOID: The Stuffed Pretzel was simply okay while everything else shined.

TIP: Offering up brunch on the weekend with several of the menu items also available in the hopping Punch House downstairs Dusek’s is a reason in and of itself to trek down to Pilsen, the general lack of CTA service be damned – with prices this low for food this good even those who dislike paying for transportation as much as myself can justify a Lyft, Uber, or cab to check the place out.

http://dusekschicago.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Chicago, Coffee, Crab, Dessert, Dusek's, Food, Ice Cream, Illinois, Pork, Sweetbreads, Vacation

August 31, 2014
3:29 PM
by: Uhockey

Waffles Cafe, Chicago IL

Waffles Café

Birthday Cake Wonut / Lemon Blueberry Wonut/ Mexican Chocolate Wonut

Pound Cake French Toast with Balsamic Berries

In search of something sweet after our disappointing lunch at Yum Cha it was to trendy hybrid food that we turned and walking from Millennium Park to Ohio Street in just under fifteen minutes our arrival at Waffles Café found the small store empty, a pile “wonuts” lying in wait alongside a menu of items both sweet and savory. Long, narrow, and clearly redesigned from whatever once stood in its place with tables doubling as chalkboards for youngsters and those young at heart it was too off-kilter service that we were greeted and after being grumbled at for filling my own glass with ice and water an order was placed, a trio of pastries arriving moments later while the kitchen readied our menu selection, a twenty-five minute process that made me wonder exactly how the restaurant would keep pace if it were actually busy. Beginning first with a deep fried white waffle lacquered in overly sweet glaze and a dollop of sprinkled frosting suffice it to say that our first bites of the restaurant’s signature item were not only underwhelming but far too oily and progressing onward to a Lemon-Blueberry variant sorely lacking in citrus the theme continued, only the chocolate topped option studded with cinnamon even remotely memorable and still nowhere near as good as many of Chicago’s donuts or waffles. Again turning our attention to newly decorated table while beverage refills languished it was after the aforementioned delay that three slices of ‘pound cake’ French Toast arrived and ignoring the generally unattractive plating I’ll simply say “at least it was better than the wonuts,” as crumbly bits of cake lightly tossed with custard served as a pleasant backdrop to mushy strawberries that very well may have been frozen plus a drizzle of balsamic that helped remedy a spritz of Rediwhip that I’d have refused if it had been listed in the item’s description.

RECOMMENDED: If you must, the Mexican Hot Chocolate Wonut should satisfy your curiosity.

AVOID: Buying the hype of the Wonut, in general.

TIP: Apparently one of two Waffles Cafes I’ve been told that the Wonut is better at the Lakeview location but suffice it to say I would neither make nor recommend the trek to find out.

http://wafflescafechicago.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Chicago, Dessert, Food, French Toast, Illinois, Vacation, Waffles, Waffles Cafe

August 31, 2014
12:56 PM
by: Uhockey

Yum Cha Dim Sum Parlor, Chicago IL

Yum Cha

Chili Oil, Spicy Mustard, Hoisin

Crab ‘Rangoon’

Har Gow

Foie Gras Egg Custard Tarts

Xiao Long Bao

BBQ Pork Buns

Creamy Chicken Bun

Egg Yolk Fried Sweet Potatoes

Fried Taro and Pork

Peking Duck with Truffled Gravy

Walnut Prawns

Yum-Cha Pressed Duck with Mushroom Gravy

Said by some to be the best dim sum found in The Windy City while others suggest the slick space just steps from Millennium Park to simply represent an location-based money grab it was with great curiosity that I sat down with family for Sunday lunch at Yum Cha, the eleven dishes we tasted a decidedly mixed bag where unexpected items shined while personal favorites universally fell flat. Admittedly well designed with menu-based orders replacing more traditional carts it was none-the-less to sub-par service that we were treated throughout our ninety minute stay and with forgotten plates plus often-empty water proving the rule rather than the exception the food came in fits and starts, an opening volley of creamy crab in a fried egg-roll wrapper bowl amongst the best plates of the afternoon while Har Gow, XLB, plus a duo of baked buns were mostly par for the course. Largely underwhelmed by the $13 trio of tiny egg custards topped with an undetectable sliver of foie gras but thoroughly impressed by tender fries coated in lightly sweetened egg-yolk it was onward to larger plates that we progressed and although pricy walnut prawns did indeed set a new benchmark the peking duck was a flavorless disaster, the confit filled version pressed into fried taro faring far better but still not something I’d order again as the coating itself was quite thick and thus too starchy, particularly when compared to the far more delicate fried pork and taro dim sum that had proceeded it.

RECOMMENDED: Crab ‘Rangoon,” Creamy Chicken Buns, Egg Yolk Fried Sweet Potatoes, Walnut Prawns

AVOID: Foie Gras Egg Custard Tarts and Peking Duck with Truffled Gravy – both under-portioned, under-flavored, and overpriced for ‘exotic’ ingredients that added nothing to the plate.

TIP: Yelp users can “check-in” for a free item of the chef’s choice, in our case the BBQ pork buns which were quite smoky and, thankfully, none too sweet.

http://www.yumchachicago.com/

Posted in Chicago, Crab, Foie, Food, Illinois, Pork, Truffle, Vacation, Yum Cha, Yum Cha Dim Sum Parlor

August 31, 2014
9:22 AM
by: Uhockey

Nico Osteria, Chicago IL

Nico Osteria

Blueberry Coffee Cake, Kouign Amann, Strawberry Cream Cheese Roll

Ricotta Bomboloni with Fior de latte, Vanilla Infused Honey, Fresh Preserves

Oven Baked Pancake with Raspberries, Pistachios, Fior di latte, Burton’s Maple Syrup

Porchetta Autostrada Sandwich with Roasted Purple Potatoes– Marinated Eggplant, Basil Aioli, Pickled Red Onion

Spaghetti Carbonara – Bacon, Egg Yolk, Bottarga

Trippa Alla Romana – Chickpeas, Kale, Tomato

Savory Polenta with Parmesan

Nico Torte – Lemon, Blueberry, Ginger, Citrus Poppyseed Gelato

Chocolate Financier – Mission Fig, Coffee, Buttermilk, Hazelnut Chocolate

Owned by Paul Kahan with offerings of breakfast, lunch, and dinner plus a weekend only brunch it was admittedly a difficult decision to decide exactly ‘when’ to visit Nico Osteria during my seven days in Chicago but largely underwhelmed by crudo or seemingly simple Italian preparations of fish at celebrated spots such as New York’s Marea in the past it was eventually in brunch that my sister, her fiancée, and I invested, the resultant $150 nine-plate tasting proving one of the best brunches in recent memory amidst the confines of a restaurant so well designed that one would hardly guess there was a boutique hotel upstairs. Truly a remarkable space, and well one suited to lingering over drinks or coffee, it was just after 9:30am that we arrived at the entryway podium and quickly seated by a gregarious hostess it would not be long before coffee and water were both filled, our server proving quite friendly though admittedly not exceedingly knowledgeable regarding newer offerings on a menu that changes from week-to-week. Featuring items both raw and cooked with sections inclusive of breakfast, lunch, pasta, pastry, and even offal it was only after several questions that our meal was crafted and requesting that plates be coursed out in three rounds everything from there on would progress smoothly, an opening volley of a three a la carte pastries and a quartet of doughnuts proving quite well crafted, though the later were a bit dull without the addition of the accoutrements including house made fior di latte and locally sourced honey. Sat beside a table clearly partaking in some hair of the dog to follow the previous night’s festivities it was perhaps thirty minutes after the first crackle of kouign amann that entrees arrived and opting for a quintet of plates inclusive of one side only the small plate of oil-soaked polenta would disappoint, the yolky pasta al dente and silky smooth with brine from both bacon and bottarga while spicy tripe was textbook tender and the skillet pancake ate more like a pistachio financier prepared as spoonbread…a good thing to say the least. Admittedly sated after these courses plus earlier doughnuts from Stan’s but unable to resist Amanda Rockman’s well regarded desserts it was with one more duo that our visit to The Thompson Hotel dining room came to a close and as good as the financier teaming with dark chocolate was it simply couldn’t compare to the “Nico Torte,” a dead ringer for Rockman’s Basque Cake that put her on the culinary map at Bristol and still one of the city’s very best desserts.

RECOMMENDED: Oven Baked Pancake, Nico Torte, Trippa Alla Romana, Spaghetti Carbonara.

AVOID: Savory Polenta was far too oily and Bombolini were rather dull without toppings.

TIP: Offering brunch from 9a until 3p on weekends complete with the same dessert menu offered at night those not particularly keen on the limited lunch selections or fish heavy dinner are likely to find a laid back brunch at Nico to be a ‘best of both worlds’ situation. Certainly not cheap but at the same time not overpriced considering the quality of the experience I only wish more restaurants were willing to offer such diversity during a meal often fraught with tedious egg dishes or gimmicks like Bloody Mary bars or bottomless mimosas.

http://www.nicoosteria.com/

Posted in Breakfast, Chicago, Coffee, Dessert, Food, Ice Cream, Illinois, Italian, Nico Osteria, Pancakes, Pork, Vacation

August 31, 2014
7:05 AM
by: Uhockey

Stan’s Donuts & Coffee (North Damen,) Chicago IL

Stan’s Donuts & Coffee

Biscoff Pocket

Nutella Pocket

Blueberry Old Fashioned

Apple Fritter

Pretzel Twist

Maple Caramel Pecan Bacon Bar

Imported from Los Angeles and all dressed up for a Chicago debut on Damen my early morning stop at Stan’s Donuts after a thirteen mile run was assured on entry to be a decadent one but having already experienced the tiny Angeleno original with mixed results nothing could have prepared me for just how good the Windy City storefront would be, each of my half-dozen selections proving nothing short of delicious while friendly service smoothly assisted a trickle of traffic that never seemed to stop rolling through the door. Artfully designed with large windows facing the street and a small seating area to the right of a counter and kitchen where doughnuts are fried fresh to restock supplies nearly fourteen hours each day it was with one eye towards indulgence but the other on an upcoming brunch that I perused the days options and eventually settling on an even half dozen my pastries were soon boxed to the tune of $14 after tax and tip, all but the two filled options still warm with the fritter still too hot to handle without a napkin. Beginning first with a yeasty raised twist beneath a shiny lacquer tinged with cinnamon and then progressing to the reference standard ring of blueberries amidst savory cake infused with buttermilk it was with high hopes that I moved along to the aforementioned fritter and with crispy edges plus loads of apples it seemed as though things couldn’t possibly get better – an assumption that would soon be proved wrong by the cookie-butter filled pocket and a sweet-meets-savory buttermilk bar that somehow managed to remain balanced despite a quartet of toppings including briny bacon that came across up front only to dissipate in smoky notes of pecan and surprisingly natural tasting flavors of maple syrup on the finish.

RECOMMENDED: Maple Caramel Pecan Bacon Bar, Biscoff Pocket, Apple Fritter, Blueberry Old Fashioned.

AVOID: Certainly not bad but extremely heavy with at least two full tablespoons of hazelnut spread inside the additionally topped pocket suffice it to say that the Nutella Pocket is an item best shared…or at least not ordered along with five other items.

TIP: Located just steps from the CTA Blue Line I’ve heard many rumors that lines at Stan’s often extend past thirty minutes around 7:00am on weekdays and even longer at 9:00am on weekends so those in a hurry should plan accordingly or be ready to settle for the consolation prize of a Glazed & Infused window directly across the street.

http://www.stansdonutschicago.com/

August 30, 2014
9:06 PM
by: Uhockey

The Promontory, Chicago IL

The Promontory

Thursdays on 53rd – Leatherbee Gin, Market Berry Meritage, Lemon, Aromatic Bitters

Iced Americano

HOUSE CHARCUTERIE BOARD – pork pate, foie gras wild mushroom terrine, serrano, rillette, mostarda

GRILLED LAMB BURGER – preserved tomato relish, pickled red onion, smoked feta, black olive tapenade, chickpea fries, olive challah

BRAISED PORK & FRIED CLAM PO BOY – fermented cabbage slaw, BBQ remoulade, french fries

QUAIL ON A STRING – asparagus, sunny side quail egg, quail liver mousse, pickled beech mushrooms, vanilla orange gastrique

KENTUCKY BURGOO – pork collar, quail, house made rabbit sausage, haricot vert, hominy, charred corn, stewed tomato broth

KALBI SHORT RIB – blistered shishito peppers, cashew, scallion

SPICED SLAGEL FAMILY FARM PORK RIBS – Spicy Shrimp, Braised Greens, Scallion Crepe, Eggplant Puree, Moroccan BBQ Sauce

BANNA PUDDING – Honey & summer truffle flan, banana & creme fraiche ice cream torchon, nilla wafer, caramelized banana purée, coconut milk

S’MORE SOUFFLÉ – smoked chocolate soufflé, graham cracker ice cream, brûlée marshmallow, smoked cocoa powder

BAKED ALASKA – hazelnut praline ice cream, espresso merengue, white coffee anglaise, hazelnut and tonka bean pound cake, hazelnut dust, flamed bourbon jelly

Noting up front that many would consider a late night meal after the tasting menu at Brindille gluttonous, if not foolhardy, it was none the less with a group of five and a last minute change of plans that I entered The Promontory, a hopping new South Loop spot sporting a 45 minute wait during which my friends and family chatted at the bar while perusing a menu on which everything sounded delicious while prices seemed too good to be “too good.” Surprisingly filled to capacity both inside and out by a mixed crowd widely ranging in race, sex, age, and style as smiles decorated nearly every face at the dimly lit tables beneath a soundtrack of jazz and blues it was eventually at three compacted two-tops that our group was sat and with menu already well studied an order was soon placed, our server at first a bit condescending regarding the requested coursing of plates but quick to correct his tone when the twelve-item order was made known. Truly a unique menu with plates divided into sections titled “cold/fast/embers/historic/snacks/pastry” it was with items from each area that our meal progressed and opting to double down on both the lamb burger and s’more soufflé so that everyone could get a good taste all ten of the night’s unique dishes would prove exemplary, the aforementioned burger by far the best I’ve tasted with an olive roll and panisse that could have just as easily stood on their own while the substantial charcuterie board was easily shared amongst the table at a cost far less than would be expected for house-cured meats of such quality. Additionally impressed by the stuffed po-boy balancing sweet, smoked pork and briny oysters plus the decadent “Burgoo” chalk-a-block full of meat with just enough acid to prevent the pot from being too heavy it was eventually in sweets that our 150 minute visit would culminate and with the restaurant still three-quarters full as the hour approached midnight it would be nearly impossible to decide which of the three was most impressive, the Baked Alaska unfortunately not flamed tableside but still impressive in its composition while the piping hot soufflé and creamy banana pudding both presented retooled classics with results far outshining their simple origins, the pudding in particular a stunning dish with textures galore and a topnote of truffle left to linger on the palate despite otherwise being expectedly sweet.

RECOMMENDED: Charcuterie Board, Lamb Burger, Po-Boy, Burgoo, Banana Pudding, S’mores Souffle.

AVOID: Quail on a String was fine, but presented nothing unique compared to the rest of the food while the Short Rib simply isn’t my style, though others at the table proclaimed it quite good at the bargain basement price of $7.

TIP: A last minute swap from the previously planned Dusek’s (a place I’d visit the following day) our wait was probably a bit longer than usual but with ample parking in the area, relatively easy access from both the red and green line, plus reservations available through the restaurant website others should not hesitate to make The Promontory a reason to visit a rejuvenating Hyde Park, the concert series available upstairs another impetus to check the place out.

http://promontorychicago.com/

Posted in Chicago, Coffee, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Illinois, Pork, Souffle, The Promontory, Truffle, Vacation

August 30, 2014
6:04 PM
by: Uhockey

Brindille, Chicago IL

Brindille

Jean d’Arc – No. 3 Gin, White Currant Jam, Black Currant Caviar

Semolina Bread with Honey Butter

Prince Edward Island Oysters, Eggs Brouilles, Leeks, Oscietra Caviar

Steak Tartare with Flavors of Rye, Sorrel, Pickled Mustard Seeds, Arugula, Quail Egg

Dover Sole Meuniere with Rissole Potatoes, Watercress, Meyer Lemon, Horseradish

Loup de Mere with Summer Squash and Blossoms, Smoked Whitefish, Heirloom Tomatoes, Sauce Basquaise

Roasted Scallops with Uni Custard, Parsley Scallion Puree, Finger Lime, Dried Satsuma Orange, Cucumber, Tapioca, Marrow Emulsion

Lobster Brindille with a Remoulade of Parsnip and Celeriac, Haricot Vert, Sugar Snap Peas, Cherry Tomatoes, Fragrant Greens

Hand Cut Noodles with Foraged Canterelles, Red Wine Braised Snails, Gesier de Poulet, Fines Herbs

Veal Sweetbreads, Loin and Rillette of Rabbit, Pearl Onions, Purslane, Golden Beet, Ginger and Cocoa

Foie Gras and Saffron-Poached Rhubarb, Preserved Crimson Sultanas, Scented Brioche, Bourriers de Venise

Tranche of Duck Breast and Foie Gras, Beluga Lentils, Belgian Endive, Scarlet Turnips, Cipollini Onions, Sutters Plum

Grilled Lamb Loin Scented with Lavender and Orange, French Horn Mushrooms, Swiss Chard, Young Turnips, Sauce Gribiche

Wagyu Ribeye – Puff Pastry, Shaved Artichokes, Vin Jaune, Micro Greens, Foraged Mushrooms, Preserved Ramps

Fantasie au Chocolat

Warm Baked Cherry & Almond Clafoutis, Crème Chantilly

Vanilla Bourbon pate de fruit, Raspberry Truffle

Defiantly French in an era when such restaurants are few and far between dinner at Brindille was planned as the centerpiece of my first day in Chicago and joined by a friend at 5:30 it can simply be said that Carrie Nahabedian’s second restaurant on North Clark Street ranks amongst Chicago’s very best, a seven-course and fourteen plate tandem-tasting for $155 per person allowing us to taste nearly the entire late summer menu with not a single course falling short of expectations that were admittedly quite high. Treated to educated and gracious service with a table drenched in sunlight from the wide front windows it was almost immediately after a brief conversation about likes, dislikes, allergies, and intolerances that our meal began and with a decadent cocktail delivered complete with mother of pearl spoon soon in hand as my friend sipped his well priced Bordeaux even the warm bread and honey butter would prove exemplary, the following flavors of supple tartare with herbal aromatics and briny oysters resting in eggy pudding just a glimpse of things to come. Truly a restaurant rooted in classic technique yet at the same time happy to dabble in unexpected pairings of pristine ingredients it was with perfect timing plus portions amenable to plate-swapping that our evening progressed and although each plate proved excellent in one way or another it was a trio of savories that shined brightest of the night, the tender duck liver richly accented with notes of saffron and cleverly set against citrus while the lightly cooked lamb and a caramelized scallop atop savory custard courses proved equally impressive, the later amongst the sweetest specimens I’ve tasted to date. Without a doubt one of the most refined experiences to open in Chicago over the past few years but not once stuffy or uptight throughout the course of our three-hour stay Brindille is the sort of place that every ‘upscale’ restaurant should aspire to be and as good as NAHA was during my lone lunch there several years ago, Brindille has decidedly one upped its older sister in nearly all ways – a Michelin Star or perhaps even Two seemingly destined to come in next year’s guide.

RECOMMENDED: With only the Lobster and a few other dishes consistently offered during each season since the restaurant’s inception I’d simply suggest making your preferences known to the kitchen and ordering the tasting menu, the seven courses at $155 a veritable bargain considering the a la carte prices and the experience more than justifying the time and financial commitment.

AVOID: Filling up on the bread…though you’ll probably want to. I know I did.

TIP: Tasting menu prices and structure vary from night to night and customization is not only allowed but encouraged, savvy diners are behooved to ask questions, make requests, and engage the servers who are not only excellent at their jobs but also impeccably familiar with sourcing and techniques employed in each dish.

http://brindille-chicago.com/

Posted in Bread Basket, Brindille, Chicago, Dessert, Foie, Food, Ice Cream, Illinois, Lobster, Sweetbreads, Tasting Menu, Vacation

August 30, 2014
12:21 PM
by: Uhockey

Table, Donkey and Stick, Chicago IL

Table Donkey and Stick

Bacon Steak – Fried Polenta, Gorgonzola, Picked Onion, Mushroom Jus, Poached Egg

Fried Chicken – Smoked Potatoes & Corn, Chard, Spicy Aioli, Fried Egg

Duck Sausage – Biscuit and Gravy, Caramelized Kale, Poached Egg

Peach Coffee Cake – Brandy Whipped Cream and Oat Streusel

Pretzel Bread Pudding – Cherry Jam, Lemon Curd, Candied Pecan

Originally planned for dinner during my first day in town but later rescheduled to brunch based on a noon-time menu that appeared slightly more interesting than that offered at night it was just after 12:30 that my sister, her fiancée, and I arrived at Table, Donkey and Stick but with the dining room completely empty and only one table seated in back our experience would prove a mixed one at best – the decidedly disinterested service of a questionably stoned server paired with the kitchen’s blunt refusal to serve any charcuterie despite its obvious ease of preparation showing an obvious disregard for ‘customer service’ and thus leaving a bad taste in our mouths despite three excellent savories and a pair of pleasant sweets. Obviously a ‘hip’ place featuring all the right moves to lure in the trendiest of Logan Square diners with hefty wood tables, exposed ceilings, and brick walls lit by Edison bulbs beneath a soundtrack of 80’s pop nostalgia it perhaps should come as no surprise that service at Table, Donkey and Stick is a perfunctory exercise and with a cocktail list nearly as long as the well-culled brunch menu it would take mere moments to craft our order…plus another fifteen minutes to actually place it as our server was self-admittedly (and unapologetically) “chatting” with the table in back as we sat without even water, a young bartender intently polishing glasses and otherwise oblivious to the ongoing abandon. Eventually attended to in an off-hand matter it would fortunately not be long before the otherwise idle kitchen lurched to life in preparing our two-course order and with the trio of savories all arriving as they were readied the skillset of the kitchen and quality of ingredients would thankfully outshine the rest of our experience, each dish a dynamic balance of proteins and local produce prepared with a deft hand and dynamic textures throughout – the tender pork-steak and smooth polenta a particular favorite of the group though the bitter caramelized kale set against fluffy biscuits and gamey duck sausage was quite impressive, as well. Moving next to a duo of sweets it was unfortunately here that the kitchen would falter because as much as the coffee cake would prove reference standard beneath a dollop of aromatic cream the French Toast styled bread pudding would arrive entirely unbalanced with nothing to suggest the savory or saline aspects of a pretzel, the flavor profile instead skewed entirely towards the sweet while excessive amounts of butter rendered the plate far too heavy, a situation that probably could have been remedied by a bit of traditional Kosher salt in the pretzel base or perhaps by stealing a note from the coffee cake and adding a bit of brandy to the excessively sweet fruit.

RECOMMENDED: Bacon Steak with Fried Polenta, Duck Sausage with Biscuits and Gravy.

AVOID: Pretzel Bread Pudding was entirely unbalanced by the heavily sweetened cherries as well as the sugar coated nuts, even for someone with a decidedly strong sweet tooth a bit of salt or something savory would have gone a long way to help.

TIP: For those interested in the charcuterie it is wise to bear in mind that even if the kitchen is entirely unbusy and standing around it is dogmatically only offered from 2pm onward – first at the bar and then as part of the dinner menu beginning at five o’clock.

http://tabledonkeystick.com/

Posted in Bread Pudding, Breakfast, Chicago, Dessert, Donkey and Stick, Food, Illinois, Pork, Vacation

Graze, Madison WI

Batch Bakehouse, Madison WI

Lazy Jane’s Cafe, Madison WI

Heritage Tavern, Madison WI

A Pig In A Fur Coat, Madison WI

Greenbush Bakery, Madison WI

The Comet Cafe, Milwaukee WI

Holey Moley Coffee + Doughnuts, Milwaukee WI

Blue’s Egg, Milwaukee WI

Cocello, Chicago IL

Do-Rite Donuts & Chicken, Chicago IL

Bottlefork, Chicago IL

Dusek’s, Chicago IL

Waffles Cafe, Chicago IL

Yum Cha Dim Sum Parlor, Chicago IL

Nico Osteria, Chicago IL

Stan’s Donuts & Coffee (North Damen,) Chicago IL

The Promontory, Chicago IL

Brindille, Chicago IL

Table, Donkey and Stick, Chicago IL

Archives

Recent Posts

By City

Blogs I Love

Archives

Recent Posts

By City

By Popularity

Blogs I Love