Pepe in Grani
Falanghina Del Sannio DOP Spumante Brut
Colpo Doppio – Fried Cone, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, Smoked Scamorza, Cream of Eggplant Parmigiana, Chips of 24-month Grana Padano DOP, Basil Reduction, Purple Basil
Viandante – Mortadella IGP, Ricotta di Bufala Campana DOP, Pistachios, Lemon Zest
Pizza Margherita Sbagliata – Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, Cooked Tomato Sauce, Basil Reduction, Extra Virgin Olive Oil / Pizza Scarpetta – Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP, Fondue of 12-month Grana Padano DOP, Raw Tomato Compote, Freeze Dried Basil, Chips of 24-month Grana Padano DOP
Pizza Grana Pepe e Fantasia – Fondue of 12-month Grana Padano DOP, Smoked Scamorza Cheese, Pasteurized Egg Yolk, Smoked Bacon, Pecorino Romano on the Cornicione, Chips of 24-month Grana Padano DOP, Pepper, Lime Zest / Pizza Salsiccia e Broccoli – Pork Sausage from Caserta, Broccoli, Fior di Latte, Smoked Scamorza Cheese, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pizza la Ritrovata – San Marzano DOP Tomato Sauce, Piennolo del Vesuvio, Dehydrated Capers, Caiazzane Black Olives Powder, Cetara Anchovies, Garlic Oil, Fried Basil / Pizza Ragu di Carne – San Marzano DOP Tomato Sauce stewed with Meatballs, Pine Nuts, Fior di Latte, Toasted Bread
Fried Pizza Dough – Sugar, Orange Zest, Rosemary, Ricotta di Bufala Campana DOP, Honey
La Crisommola Dal Vesuvio – Lemon-flavored Ricotta di Bufala, Vesuvius Apricot Jam, Toasted Hazelnuts, Black Olive Crumble, Fresh Mint
As a third-generation Baker and repeat recipient of “Best Pizza in the World” accolades the name Franco Pepe carries significant weight, and in the small town of Caiazzo, just one hour from Naples, he and his team showed precisely why gourmands travel globally to experience his skill and ideas plus the sort of service many Michelin-starred Restaurants would be lucky to have.
A destination in Compania since 2012, Chefs and critics singing the praises of a three-story space located down a narrow alley, it is strongly recommended that guests secure seats up to sixty days in advance, because although walk-ins are available they are almost universally subject to a substantial wait.
Made more popular recently by Netflix “Ugly Delicious,” but largely unaffected according to regulars who suggest Franco Pepe has always chased faultlessness rather than fame, it was with reservations confirmed at 19h00 that two diners were led upstairs after a fifty-minute drive from Napoli, Pepe having taken a quick break to touch tables before returning to the kitchen made visible through closed-circuit television.
A destination in the era of accessibility, names like Sorbillo and Da Michele expanding across oceans, Pepe’s approach embraces both terroir and season, a hyper-attentive focus on sourcing virtually guaranteeing no two Pies are identical even though the kitchen works with speed, skill and precision.
Honoring his father and grandfather with classic offerings, all while pushing forward with ideas that challenge conventional thoughts regarding “Neapolitan” Pizza, it is from a surprisingly affordable Food & Beverage list that diners are invited to self-select, though the Degustazione typically reserved for parties of four can be made available for two if rrequested.
Promoting Slow Food ideals, and highly efficient in terms of service, it was with a €32 bottle of Bubbly poured that course one arrived, Pepe’s now-iconic “Colpo Doppio” eating much like Montanara filled with a fragrant blend of Herbs and Cheese while a beautifully-leavened bits of Dough proved even better beneath a “rose” of Mortadella, Ricotta and Pistachio.
An impassioned Chef, speaking fluently in both English and Italian when engaging with diners, it was as Franco stood tableside that his “Mystic” Margherita was delivered, the use of cooked Tomatoes and concentrated Basil better-focusing flavor while the Pie’s “Scarpetta” half used similar Ingredients to achieve an effect that permeates the sinuses while treating the palate to a diversity of textures.
Using only products from nearby farms, Bacon and Eggs from “just down the road” featured on the Pizza Grana Pepe e Fantasia which riffs on Carbonara while adding grated-Pecorino Romano to the Cornicione, it was from the “seasonal” Pizzas that Sausage and Broccoli was served, seasoned Pork from Caserta playing well off the smoked Cheese and lightly charred Crucifer.
Asked about capacity at this point, and happy to say that Pepe’s hand-blended Flour from Bari digests without making one feel overly full, a third Pizza focused on big flavors, “la Ritrovata” packing a ton of brine by way of Capers, Olives and Anchovies while an off-menu special described by Franco used the Sauce of Tomatoes stewed with Meatballs to impart an impressive degree of unctuousness to the half made texturally explosive with Pine Nuts and Bread Crumbs.
Likely able to enjoy another Pie, but worried that Dessert might then be missed, it was much like the beginning that Pepe in Grani ended with a duo, Zeppole far lighter than any experienced prior and not overly-sweet while “La Crisommola Dal Vesuvio” replicated the Viandante’s base with toppings that touched every part of the palate with lingering tartness.
www.pepeingrani.it