Pramerl & the Wolf
Christoph Hoch Rose Rurale Pet Nat
Beef Tartare, Caviar, Tarragon
Padron Pepper, Aged Gouda
Steam Dumpling with Carrot, Ginger, Lobster Butter / Carrot and Miso Soup / Carrot Orange Salad
Smoked Oyster, Salsify, Yuzu, Dill
Grilled Sturgeon, Parsley, Bone Marrow, Preserved Lemon, Caper
Squid Pasta, Smoked Eel, Dehydrated Egg Yolk, Black Pepper
Quail, Potato, Kohlrabi, Sake, Chinese 5-Spice, Perigord Black Truffle
Wagyu Short Ribs, Radicchio, Cassis, Blue Cheese Butter
Dulce de Bourgogne, Puffed Buckwheat, Hazelnut, Apricot Granola, Apple, Buckwheat English Muffin
Dark Chocolate, Rosemary, Ceps, Pears
White Chocolate, Hibiscus, Strawberry, Hay
Practicing what ownership refers to as “the art of reduction” Pramerl & the Wolf carries one Michelin Star in Vienna’s 9th district, the former bar turning out a nightly surprise Tasting Menu filled sophisticated flavors tarnished by service that proudly embraces hipster indifference.
Just 14 seats and two services Wednesday through Saturday, the setting decidedly informal, Pramerl & the Wolf can be viewed in its entirety from the doorframe with wood only occasionally dotted by greenery or a golden garden gnome flipping the bird.
Not necessarily Viennese cuisine, but instead a seasonal menu with international influence, Wines lean largely natural including bold fermented Grapes from Niederösterreich that pair quite well with Appetizers including Beef Tartare in a cup beneath Caviar and a blistered Padron Pepper stuffed with Cheese.
Receiving most plates directly from Chef Wolfgang Zankl and team, Bartenders seemingly sourced straight out of Brooklyn only stopping by to give their opinion of a plate or to try and sell more Wine, course one consisted of a plump Vegetarian Steam Bun ready to be dragged through Lobster Butter alongside bright Carrot Soup and Salad.
€130 for mostly modest portions, a single Oyster lost to Acid and Dill, Sturgeon from the grill was undoubtedly a highlight thanks to assertive green Sauce while the follow-up of “Carbonara” made from sliced Cephalopod would have seemed more clever had it not been seen done better before.
Served in an expedited fashion, turning tables for a second seating seeing guests retrieve their own silverware from a drawer beneath the table, Zankl’s Quail arrives properly cooked atop a Potato with bold aromatics before the night’s final savory plates Domestic Wagyu amidst Radicchio and Currants with Blue Cheese giving the Meat a semblance of extended-aging.
Offering no Bread or Couvert, a shame as the Buckwheat English Muffin served with Dulce de Bourgogne was world-class, Dessert saw Dark Chocolate Ice Cream decorated by Herbs, Mushrooms and Fruit before a final bite of Strawberries and White Chocolate delivered with the check.
www.pramerlandthewolf.com