Theodore Rex
TOMATO TOAST
SOURED PORK SAUSAGE, CHORIZO SPICES, GARDEN CUCUMBERS, LIME LEAF
SFORMATO OF HOUSE-MADE RICOTTA, BLOOMSDALE SPINACH, NUTMEG, CHARD, EGG YOLK
TAGLIOLINI WARMED IN CULTURED BUTTER, SEASONED WITH GULF OYSTER LIQUOR, MIGNONETTE
AGNOLOTTI STUFFED WITH RICOTTA, WARM CREAM, ‘MUSCADINE’ GRAPES
FROZEN DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, MUSHROOM, MAPLE, LEMON ZEST
Although James Beard Foundation Award winner Justin Yu shuttered tasting menu-only Oxheart in 2017 his cooking remains innovative and exciting in its current form at Theodore Rex, named after the Chef’s nephew.
Located just off the highway in a converted building, Houston’s “warehouse district” living up to its name with few signs of activity Sunday evening, it is inside 1302 Nance Street that guests will find exposed brick and minimal adornment surrounding just twenty-eight seats.
“Relaxed fine dining” by design, Chef Frank Hermosilla overseeing an open kitchen that works in silence, Theodore Rex changes its menu frequently with Foo that is aggressive yet accessible and exotic despite its roots in local Ingredients.
Smartly staffed such that Chefs and servers all contribute to an experience best enjoyed at the counter, a 22% autograt assuring fair pay, most diners will begin with Yu’s famous Tomato Toast that spins “pan con tomate” as Butter-soaked Pain de Mie that’s brushed with Garlic and topped with Tomato Fondant plus a Salad of fresh Tomatoes.
Gulf-focused with Asian elements, Sour Sausage spiced like Chorizo balancing Cucumbers and subtle Citrus, Yu’s Ricotta finds itself lightened as crustless Quiche perfumed with Nutmeg atop chlorophyll alongside a creamy Yolk.
Less interested in large-format proteins than small-plates, though Toast-crusted Redfish ordered by a neighbor received raves, T.Rex’s Pastas shine brightly whether long ribbons flavored like dressed Oysters or filled beneath Cream and native Grapes.
Torn as relates to Dessert, a female server allowed to break the tie, fans of rich flavors need look no further than Mousse that eats lighter than expected thanks to flecks of earth and sour on a bed of thick Syrup.
www.trexhouston.com