Thevar
Spiked Horchata – BACARDI, RUM, BANANA, PORT, HORCHATA
Fluffy Watermelon & Pink Guava Paloma – ALTOS BLANCO, APEROL, WATERMELON, PINK GUAVA
Clarified Masoor Dal
Trout Idli, Kaluga Caviar, Dill Raita
Kiwi Chaat
Crispy Pork, Sambal Aioli, Betelnut Leaf
Carrot Pani Puri
Smoked Eel Vadai
Lobster-Yuzu Ishtu
Tiger Abalone, Koshihikari Khichdi
Chettinad Chicken Roti
Kokum Beetroot Momo
Mysore Spiced Rack of Lamb, Spiced Jus, Butternut Squash
Squash Masala, Achar Thogayal
Lamb Biryani
Peach & Paneer
Coffee-Roasted Dates Kulfi
Masala Chai Tart
Pistachio Financier
Located in Keong Saik, a hip area south of Singapore’s Chinatown, Chef Mano Thevar’s eponymous Restaurant sees the native of Penang reinterpreting his Indian heritage through elevated ideas but firm roots that warranted an upgrade to two-stars from Michelin in 2024.
A narrow space with perhaps 20 seats, all of them spaced alongside a kitchen working with smiles as Layla and Dream On play loudly, guests familiar with traditional Stews and Naan will instead find their ideas incorporated into a European-style tasting menu served by gracious staff.
Trained by Guy Savoy, a similar joie de vivre noted in Thevar’s approach, it is quickly after seating that diners receive a palate cleansing shot prior to three bites, Chaat topped by Kiwi anything but “usual” while Indian Rice Cakes with Caviar is an undeniably delicious upgrade on the southern Breakfast staple.
Not forgetting crisp Pork Belly painted with Sambal, heat quickly quelled by creative Cocktails, Carrot “Pani Puri” sees a crystal orb shatter before moving on to Smoked Eel Vadai and poached Lobster riffing on Kerala Vegetable Stew.
Using spices in a bold but balanced manner rarely seen in Indian cuisine, Abalone Porridge arguably the night’s best dish, Chettinad Chicken Roti served as a “Taco” received so much praise a second was offered complimentary before moving forward to Beet Momo in preparation for the “main course.”
The sort of kitchen that command attention, Lamb cooking over fire finally ready, Thevar’s version arrives juicy with fat perfectly rendered and sides of fluffy Rice and Squash Masala large enough to share before a delicate Peach and Paneer Palate Cleanser.
Almost too full for Dessert, stressing almost since a pre-ordered slice of Thevar’s signature Masala Chai Tart should be mandatory, sweets also include Kulfi with Dates and Coffee plus Pistachio Financiers so fitting the uninitiated probably wouldn’t even realize they’re French.
www.thevar.sg