Aureole
2016 Chene Bleu Grenache/Syrah Blend
Focaccia – Herb Butter
Beausoleils Oyster, Pink Lemonade, Kaluga Caviar / Salmon Rillette, Kaluga Caviar, Lemon Aioli, Brioche Toast / Hamachi, Citrus Cream, Lemon Zest, Kaluga Caviar, Brioche Baton
Beet Salad – Beet Foam, Brown Butter Croutons, Citrus Cream
Foie Gras – Cornflake Crusted Brioche French Toast, Nutella, Grapes, Bacon Jam, Huckleberry Compote
Duck Prosciutto-Wrapped Foie Torchon – Huckleberry Tomatoes, Black Salt, Sangria Soda, Brioche
Risotto –Burgundy Truffles, Alba White Truffles
Cavatelli – Porcini, Burgundy Truffles, Parmesan
Vegetable Lasagna – Spinach Pasta, Butternut Squash, Mascarpone, Sage
Crispy Calamari – Squid Ink and Black Garlic Aioli, Blistered Peppers
Ora King Salmon – Potato, Smoked Salmon, White Wine Cream
Almond Ginger-Crusted Scallops – Tatsoi Spinach, Sunchokes, Mushroom Consomme
Venison – Aged 4 weeks in Bacon Fat, Mushrooms, Braised Greens, Beets
Rack of Colorado Lamb – Pistachio and Horseradish Crust, Lingonberry Jus, Tempura Broccoli and Green Onions
Double Espresso – Ice
Rose Apple Tartlette – Cardamom and Rosewater Ice Cream, Almond
Pumpkin Gingerbread Pudding – Oloroso Butterscotch, Cinnamon Ice Cream, Pecans
Warm Chocolate Cake – Passion Fruit Ice Cream, White Chocolate Cremeux
Coconut Bananas Foster – Malibu Caramel, Coconut Sorbet, Spice Rum Financier
Maple Brown Butter Crème Brulee – Hazelnut Crust, Pomegranate, Cranberry Sorbet
Trio of Cheesecakes – Blue, Brie, Cheddar, Seasonal Accompaniments
Chocolates – Orange, Coconut
Take Home Truffle-infused Chocolates
While some choose to slight Las Vegas for trying to be “everything to everyone,” over 40 million visitors each year making this particularly necessary for Restaurants who wish to survive amidst intense competition, there are still the rare Chefs who stand out amidst the rest for their ability to provide an excellent guest experience for both gourmands and those who’d just as soon partake in a chain, Chef John Church doing just that ever since joining the team at Aureole and currently crafting one of the best seasonal menus seen in the United States in 2017.
With Chef Church now at the helm of Charlie Palmer’s Mandalay Bay flagship for approximately one year, the menu of “Root, Surf and Ranch” less asynchronous than at the start with Proteins frequently co-starring alongside seasonal Produce rather than dominating the plate, diners entering Aureole during late-Autumn will find themselves greeted by a 2016-revamped dining room that seems a bit brighter than just six months ago while service remains first-rate.
Still featuring the wine angels, this time ironically a man actually named Angel charged with obtaining bottles from the floor-to-ceiling glass case, it was just past 6:30pm that a party of two sat down on the tail-end of a private party celebrating a large-sum slot tournament, both John and the GM stopping by to say hello with Carte Blanche given to the kitchen over the course of the next 160 minutes.
Described as Farm to Table American Cuisine, Vegetables from the likes of Blue Lizard Farms proudly served alongside organic Meats, sustainably-sourced Fish and plenty of luxury ingredients, it was with a lone glass of Wine plus water that the meal got started with Aureole’s soft Focaccia served alongside Herb Butter before progressing into a trio of Canapes, a small Oyster made sweet and acidic by Pink Lemonade plus Salmon Rillettes and Hamachi Crudo each dressed up with a dollop of Kaluga Caviar.
To this day Mandalay Bay’s crown jewel, local press reporting that the events of October had seen a property-wide drop in business difficult to see as Aureole’s immense dining room remained more than half-full throughout the evening, it was shortly after plates were cleared that Chef Church once again arrived tableside with his daily Beet Salad, a trio of varieties matched to Croutons and Citrus fairly standard but well placed as a lighter alternative to two styles of Foie Gras, the housemade Prosciutto-wrapped Torchon smooth and creamy while the seared version from a wine-dinner earlier that week challenged for dish of the year status by way of a “breakfast, lunch and dinner” presentation including Nutella French Toast and Bacon Jam.
Not a place for the light of wallet, a scarcity of White Truffles this year seeing only a handful of Restaurants offer the pricier-than-usual ingredient, it was as course two was prepared that two Tuber magnatum were left on the table along with earthier Burgundies, simplicity as always proving the best strategy when offering each and Johnny doing just that as he microplaned and shaved both over buttery Risotto while using only the latter on handmade Cavatelli already fragrant with Porcinis.
Larger in portion sizes than many of Sin City’s other best Restaurants, something to be considered when looking at cost, it was as both bowls were wiped clean that a third Pasta arrived to trump even the mighty Truffle, Aureole’s new Vegetable Lasagna not quite as ‘pretty’ as the one offered in April but undeniably the dish of the night with pureed Squash stacked between tender green sheets and given an herbal top-note by Sage in creamy Mascarpone.
At this point turning the program over to Pastry and Executive Sous Chef Athena Thickstun, the Buckeye with an impressive resume including time at both Quique Dacosta and Jean Georges Steakhouse not pumping the brakes at all, it was with a requested plate of spicy Calamari with mellowing Aioli that a three courses of Seafood were presented, the house-smoked King Salmon more impressive than most thanks to both its moisture and the mellow Cream while the quartet of Scallops saw their intrinsic sweetness carefully managed by both crispy Sunchokes and Mushroom Consomme that was tan yet clear as a whistle and intense both in flavor and smell.
Rounding out savories with two heartier Proteins, the Rack of Lamb cooked just past rare and presented with a crunchy Pistachio Crust plus flash-fried Vegetables, it was frankly unfair for anything else to be served alongside Chef Church’s Venison previously offered during the aforementioned wine dinner, each lean Steak aged 4 weeks in fat before a sous-vide bath and light sear concentrating the Meat’s natural flavor which was allowed to shine amidst stewed Mushrooms and braised Beets with their Greens.
Full but not entirely stuffed and shortly thereafter with a Double Espresso poured over Ice in hand it was in a very generous display of hospitality that Chef Thicksun opted to present every Dessert on the menu to close out the evening, her time in Denia perhaps peaking through with a Rose Apple Tartlette that likely elicits a “too pretty to eat” from many before being devoured while Chef Church’s now-signature Trio of Cheesecakes is just as smartly crafted as it was on day one and likely even better with a glass of Sauternes or Port.
Setting aside Passion Fruit Ice Cream and still able to enjoy the Chocolate Cake, an agreeable yet fairly standard presentation, it was with most of this left for others that attention instead focused on Maple Crème Brulee nestled inside flaky Pastry with bitter-sweet Cranberry Sorbet as well as Pumpkin Gingerbread Pudding rife with Cinnamon and topped with Gold-infused Butterscotch , both seasonally appropriate but good enough to be kept long-term while the “Bananas Foster” is leaps and bounds ahead of anywhere else locally or in New Orleans even without the tableside flambé thanks to both the density of the Cake and combination boozy Caramel Sauce plus Coconut Sorbet.
FIVE STARS: While Chef Palmer remains a legend in the hospitality industry, his accolades earned in some of the Nation’s top culinary destinations, it has been an absolute joy to watch Aureole develop into something entirely new under the toque of Chef Church, and although many great meals have been enjoyed both in Las Vegas and abroad in 2017 Autumn at Aureole is amongst the most memorable in terms of matching seasonality to the concept, not one plate out of eighteen short of delicious while the room and service both continue to impress.
RECOMMENDED: Foie Gras, Risotto, Vegetable Lasagna, Almond Ginger-Crusted Scallops, Venison, Coconut Bananas Foster, Pumpkin Gingerbread Pudding, Trio of Cheesecake.
AVOID: Passion Fruit, as always, is not enjoyed.
TIP: Those interested in a Chef’s Tasting Menu need only ask, while oenophiles would be well advised to keep an eye on Aureole’s Social Media and Website for upcoming events.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
http://www.charliepalmer.com/aureole-las-vegas
