Smyth
Tisane of Tomatoes, Garden Herbs, Marigold
Eggplant Sorbet, Shiso
Uni, Spruce, Habanada
Caviar, Green Almond, Melon
Tomato & Bergamot Ceviche
Kampachi Rib, Geranium
Sugar Cube Melon, Borage, Yuzu
Butternut Squash, Blood Sausage, Onion, Currant
Lobster, Strawberry, Horseradish
Barbeque Unagi, Cloudberry, Onion
Smoked Short Rib, Shiso, Plum
Tomato, Aged Beef, Black Garlic
Beef Fat Brioche Doughnut
Kombu Ice Cream, Toasted Chocolate, Gooseberries
Peach, Green Almond, Sunflower
Peach, Toasted Corn / Seaweed Caramel Tart
Pine Crunch Bar
Lavender Grapes
Previously visited in July of 2018, the best meal in a year that also included Central, Faviken and Frantzen, expectations entering Smyth amidst a global pandemic were measured, yet from the moment reservations were made until exit the Shields’ and staff proved precisely why their Restaurant at 177 North Ada Street is a destination like no other.
Named after the county in Virginia where Town House still stands, and the ideas developed inside those walls, Smyth espouses true “farm to table cooking” without conventional boundaries, a “come as you are” dress policy currently paired to socially distanced seating that makes guests feel more than just safe, but instead truly welcome.
Led from foyer to table past a kitchen crew of at least eleven, The Rolling Stones’ “19th Nervous Breakdown” fading into “Careless Whisper,” it was at the suggestion of GM Christopher Gerber that a special menu was proposed, an easy decision that saw the night begin with vibrant Tea further brightened by Herbs and Flowers.
Working closely with Rebecca Papineau’s The Farm to assure continued access to the sort of ingredients the Shieldses became accustomed to in Chilhowie, a majority of Smyth’s Produce brought in daily from those twenty acres an hour south, follow-up bites included Caramelized Eggplant served in a Shiso “Cone” and fresh Uni striking an unlikely balance between Mint and Hot Sauce.
Beholden to no rules beyond the ones John and Karen create, a mound of Caviar plated alongside Green Almonds and Cream developing slowly with a buttery-sweet finish, Tomatoes were again featured amidst Citrus as “Ceviche” before delving into meaty grilled Fish followed by a sliced Melon chaser.
Cleaning fingers with Lemon-scented towels, a bottle of Sanitizer on every table while all staff donned appropriate PPE, guests were next offered a preview of autumn via Butternut Squash cooked with Pork before backtracking to summer in a dish of Strawberries, Lobster and a hint of Horseradish.
Heavier henceforth, though not without a bevy of nuance, Eel cooked over the embers arrived afloat in unctuous Broth before savories came to a close with tender Short Rib, umami-infused Tomatoes and a delicate piece of fried Bread to soak up all the Sauce.
Turning the program over to Karen Urie Shields and her Pastry team from here, sweets began with Seaweed Ice Cream beneath shards of Chocolate and the same Habanada Peppers used earlier to spice Uni, a palate “shocker” more than cleanser soon followed by Sunflower Panna Cotta, Peach Granita and additional textural elements.
Served in just over two hours, a fine pace in line with current practices throughout Chicago, four more bites arrived along with a thank you from Mr. Gerber, each Tart delicate and well-crafted while Lavender-scented Grapes plus the “Pine Crunch” Bar further exemplified Smyth’s rare ability to use otherwise potent flavors subtly.
www.smythandtheloyalist.com/smyth
