Confiteria El Riojano
Mujis
Ensaimada
Caracola
Lazos
Palmera Glaseada
Founded in 1855 and to this day following Madrid’s traditional calendar, El Riojano was originally the idea of a Baker who worked for the Royal Family, its interior of mahogany and marble harkening years past while service is abrupt and most certainly not willing to accommodate English.
Maintaining a hidden tearoom and outdoor tables, the latter refused as “reserved” at 08h45 even though only one of four was occupied, it was after perusing several dozen selections that choices were made, some such as a glazed Palmier easy to identify while others required a bit of faith.
Now in its fifth ownership, though many of Damaso de la Maza’s original recipes remain, it was after passing row-upon-row of Pastas that teeth punctured an airy Ensaimada while El Riojano’s Caracola falls short of those elsewhere thanks to too much heft and Fruit that is gummy.
Remiss to skip the Torrijas, but not about to abide a bare minimum of service seemingly designed to force tourists out, both Lazos and Mujis each fared well to finish, especially the former which looks like a Donut but eats like Viennoiserie.
www.pasteleriaelriojano.com