Zur Golden Kron
Housemade Sourdough, Butter
Charcuterie – vom Dreierlei Speck, Air Dried Beef, Schinkem-Manufaktur Pork Belly, Tiroler Bergkase Cheese, Curry Pickles, Horseradish
Seared Goose Liver – Cep Mushrooms, Fermented Pepper, Cherries
Iberico Pork Loin – Potato and Chanterelle Mushroom Goulash, Grilled Onions, Herb Cream
Veal Wiener Schnitzel – Lemon, Mountain Cranberries, Potato-Lamb’s Tongue Lettuce Salad
Located at a distance from Frankfurt’s tourist corridor, Zur Golden Kron has nonetheless gathered a reputation amongst in-the-know diners, its 15/20 rating by Gault Millau quite impressive for what is essentially a casual Restaurant and Tavern, though the Food and Beverage both set a high standard for the genre.
Only part of Frankfurt’s Eschersheim neighborhood since mid-2017, the 350+ year old building unoccupied for some time before Chef Alfred Friedrich and Sommelier Pit Punda purchased the property after the former departed Michelin 2** Lafleur, it is via sites including Opentable that guests are able to make reservations, something indeed necessary as the both indoors and out were filled from 17h00 to 20h00, and likely straight through to midnight.
Not aiming for Michelin accolades, but instead focused on regional specialties and memories from Chef Friedrich’s Austrian childhood, it is with minimal English spoken and menus printed only in German that Zur Golden Kron operates, a bit of Google Translate via free Wi-Fi paying dividends across two courses served at a leisurely pace given the crowd of fifty or more and only three men in the kitchen.
Beginning with housemade Bread, not the best but still a serviceable Sourdough, it was with a gentle breeze blowing that guests waited while watching a family of eight celebrate the birthday of an elderly gentleman, course one arriving some thirty minutes later and comprised of local Charcuterie alongside a 39€ slice of Foie Gras whose small portion and precious price was thankfully justified by it being peerlessly seared and served amidst fresh Mushrooms, pickled Peppers and poached Cherries.
Made to wait nearly twenty minutes for empty plates to be cleared, just two servers in constant motion throughout the meal, it was a full sixty minutes later that Entrees arrived, the Spanish Pig impressive in its texture and accoutrements while Wiener Schnitzel compared favorably to the best in town, as too did the satin-smooth Potatoes mixed with Lamb’s Tongue Lettuce.
www.goldenkron.de