Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitana
Pepperoni Pie
Sausage Pie
Serving Coney Island since 1924 it would be hard to call Totonno’s Pizzeria Napolitana anything less than an institution, and although the family-owned business was temporarily shuttered by a fire in 2009 and subsequently by Superstorm Sandy the place many say has been selling New York’s best Pizza for over 90 Years remains much the same as it ever has been, a renovation of the inside doing nothing to compromise the recipes and traditions of co-owner Antoinette Balzano’s Grandfather.
Originally founded by Anthony Pero and now in its third generation, either Antoinette or her sister Cookie Ciminieri usually present during the shop’s Thursday through Sunday noon to 8pm hours, Totonno’s has succeeded for years on the straightforward idea of serving only Pies made fresh from the very best ingredients available, the menu equally uncomplicated with just two choices – Small for $17.50 or Large for $20.50 with toppings each $2.50 extra.
Decorated in old family photos, newspaper clippings and various nick-knacks, the sort of place where water is offered from a faucet behind the cooler and bathroom doorknob handles might unexpectedly fall off, those arriving early at Totonno’s are quickly suggested to sit down by one of the owners who can best be described as brief, if not extremely pleasant, with orders subsequently taken and yelled up to the counter where a middle aged man stretches the Dough and tops it before placing it in the Coal Oven.
Loosing much in the hurricane, though the well-seasoned ovens thankfully remained intact, it is with waters filled once by staff that patrons wait in anticipation as the Pizzaiolo does his work, the space quickly filling up shortly after opening with the server mostly acting as traffic cop, directing customers where to sit and making sure that larger tables are saved for big groups.
Forced to obtain refills for oneself, the total time to make and fire a Pie approximately twenty minutes with perhaps four fitting the oven at once, it was in two smalls topped differently that five guests indulged, the Pepperoni a local butcher-bought variety sliced thin and mostly oilless while the housemade Sausage is crumbly and full of spice, also cut into rounds.
Continuing to use coal in the era of wood and electric ovens, a conscious decision that imparts a peppery charred note to an edge that snaps and crackles before giving way to yeasty notes within, Totonno’s slice is not the floppy sort traditionally thought of as “New York Pizza” but instead robust and capable of remaining mostly upright without a fold, the Mozzarella a high-grade that bubbles without burning despite the oven’s high temperatures while the Sauce is entirely devoid of sweetness, instead letting the Tomatoes and Herbs do all the talking.
Featuring almost no Social Media presence, the owners clearly content in doing things the way they always have without compromise, Totonno’s is that rare ‘hidden gem’ that has nonetheless been unearthed by word of mouth and subsequently confirmed by the Media, all of it going to show that even in an Instagram world quality, passion and skill are the keys to creating a concept that is built to last.
http://www.totonnosconeyisland.com/
