A lot has changed in the life of Dominique Ansel since I first encountered his Desserts at Daniel, the restaurant then 3* from Michelin with its Pastry Chef soon to leave for Soho, my next experience coming shortly before the Cronut with his creative collection already including the DKA and a Paris Breast that tasted like a Reeses’ Peanut Butter Cup.
Visiting the small Bakery three times in its first year and a half, one of them involving a nearly two-hour wait for the hybrid Pastry that has now been replicated countless times, it was nearly four years and the 2017 Best Pastry Chef Beard Award later that a stop was made at Dominique Ansel Kitchen on 7th Avenue South, the upstairs “Unlimited Possibilities” space currently closed for a menu change while the downstairs was sparsely populated thanks to Memorial Day.
Focused on the concept of “Time as an Ingredient,” the focus on creating as many items as possible made-to-order in the same way that Jacques Genin carefully stacks his Mille-Feuilles in Paris a la minute, Ansel goes on to describe his Kitchen as “the next hybrid bakery,” and for those choosing to dine in the experience is a lot like many high end kitchens, the mise en place all set with most items assembled as guests wait at tables beneath an awning outdoors, or on tiered steps inside that are more than a little impractical.
Smartly opting not to continue the Cronut craze at Dominique Ansel Kitchen, lines at the Spring Street Bakery still stretching down the block prior to opening, it was after a bit of browsing and discussion with the clerk that decisions were made to dine in three rounds, everything coming out precisely as requested with a total cost for six items just over $43.
Not a cheap place, but also not as overpriced as High Street on Hudson or Union Fare despite the Chef’s accolades and a largely superior assortment of products, Breakfast began with Ansel’s newly famous “Egg-Clipse” featuring Brioche blackened with Squid Ink beneath mashed Potatoes, Mushroom Cream and two Confit Egg Yolks that burst with just a bit of pressure, the flavor pure umami and probably best shared by those with small appetites while the torched-to-order Blueberry Laminated Brioche took Croissant Dough and split it in half, filling it with Blueberry Balsamic Compote and Mascarpone that eats very light with a flavor not dissimilar to Cheesecake.
Scaling back the ‘hybrid’ items a bit to focus on presentation, though smart to capitalize on higher outdoor temperatures by hemisecting his famous Kouign Amann and filling it with housemade Salted Caramel Ice Cream for a more-or-less fool proof Ice Cream Sandwich, take away items for this visit included the straight-forward flourless Chocolate Cookie studded with Pecans and a fluffy Croissant filled with Marcona Almonds and floral Frangipane, the “Sage-smoked Brownie” probably something that would have been better off eaten on-site warm, though the layers of melted Chocolate were still soft and rich at room temperature with a subtle herbal linger.
Located at 637 Hudson Street and serving three meals a day weekdays with Brunch and Dinner on weekends, High Street on Hudson has become a buzzy place in the West Village thanks to a creative, seasonal menu focused on scratch-making everything from Bread to Pastas on site, an early morning visit on Memorial Day 2017 finding the space largely empty save for a few families, the service taking time to chat with regulars and everything moving at a leisurely pace.
Decorated in wood and material with exposed ceilings, the kitchen in back with a small grab n’ go Pastry case and Barista station up front, those choosing to dine-in at High Street on Hudson are offered banquettes on either side of the room or tables at the center, the Brunch menu featured for the Holiday including all the daily breakfast choices plus a few weekday lunch items, the order eventually entailing a Breakfast Sandwich, one Side and three Pastries at a total cost with tax and tip of just under forty dollars.
Owned and operated by Eli Kulp, the concept brought in from Philadelphia where his High Street on Market continues to gather acclaim, High Street on Hudson can best be described as a modern Brasserie with a focus on oven roasting and classic techniques, the dinner menu offered a la carte or as a “Leave it to Us” tasting while early-day offerings focus on Sandwiches, Salads, Soups and Sides, the Old Bay Potatoes gaining a lot of acclaim thanks to the boiled, smashed, fried and seasoned Spuds served with a smear of Crème Fraiche that crackle with each bite and never coming across oily.
Changing the menu frequently, the famous Red Eye Pastry replaced by items such as a fair-to-middling Blackberry Crumb Bar and an aggressively bitter Coffee Almond Date Cake, those favoring Frangipane will very much enjoy High Street’s Almond Croissant while others just have to be happy that it is not too sweet, a far better flavor found in The Bodega Sandwich with spicy Breakfast Sausage, fluffy Eggs and sharp Cheddar on a flaky Sage-Black Pepper Biscuit.
S’mores – Housemade Marshmallows, Artisan Graham Crackers, Hershey
Owned and operated by Greg Baxtrom and Ian Rothman out in Prospect Heights, the concept at first seeming much the same as many with a Chef-driven menu based on seasonality, Olmsted differentiates itself from the pack by way of a backyard Garden and living wall from which many of its ingredients are sourced, the 50-seat space a near-impossible reservation after receiving attention as a Best New Restaurant contender at the James Beard Foundation Awards.
Named after a deceased local architect, the narrow and straight space leading to a garden where a fire-pit offering Drinks, small Bites and a special Dessert experience offers additional seating for approximately a dozen, those visiting Olmsted will be greeted promptly at the hostess podium where reservations are confirmed before being led to one of many wood tables, the noise level near the front far more quiet than at the back, in part due to the location of speakers and in part due to the fact that the bar and kitchen lie along the same wall, which thus compresses many of the tables against a brick wall lined in Plants.
Open as a first-come-first-serve restaurant on Mondays only, the other days booked as soon as reservations open via the website, it was after getting comfortable that menus were presented along with verbalized daily specials and a clipboard Cocktail list, the prices occasionally precocious, though the presentations and flavors are frequently on par with several of New York’s top fine dining establishments.
Beginning with a Cocktail and Water, the plates rustic and attractive though cups are unnecessarily small which necessitates servers leaving pitchers of water with the table, fans of innovative drinks have already made “Give Peas a Chance” a social media sensation, the Tequila-based “Rhubarb” not as photogenic but fresh and refreshing which paired well with Crawfish Boil Crackers that tasted exactly as they are named with the texture of Chicharrón while a daily dish entitled “Morgan’s Meats” featured smooth shredded Pork served with Toast and Pickled Onions.
Continuing with “Snacks,” Chef Baxtrom no stranger to crafting single bites with complexity and big flavor following stints at Alinea, Atera and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Popcorn Monkfish offered a basket of lightly fried Fish alongside Radishes and a herbal Aioli while the daily special Chawanmushi executed on par with any experienced to date stateside, the Custard smooth and jiggly with the flavor of Shellfish and Mushrooms beneath fried Scallions and Nori added for texture.
Without doubt a global menu suited to concept of Vegetable-centric fare and sustainability, the newly famous orange Crepe with trimmed Clams, Sunflower Seeds and razor-thin Carrot slices as delicate and precise as anything one might see at Per Se, Baxtrom’s best dish of the night came by way of the Indian-inspired Duck Chakna with confit Fowl ready to be loaded into Naan made with Red Lentils, the Soft-Shell Crab unfortunately a $22 disappointment that was overwhelmed by Peppers, the thick “Ranch” sauce sloppily placed on the plate and not really adding much to any of the other ingredients.
Appropriately impressed by the Rutabaga Tagliatelle, thin strips of the Tuber lightly steamed into al dente low-calorie Noodles and topped with sliced Black Truffles in Brown Butter, it was with two distinctly different styles of drip Coffee that a bag of Bombolini were enjoyed, the flavor not unlike that of a Cider Donut before being dipped into creamy Caramel Sauce, a fifteen minute wait quickly passed before the party of three was led out back to the Garden where sleeping Doves in cages watch diners place housemade Marshmallows on sticks before blackening them over a can of Embers and smashing them between Graham Crackers from a local Bakery plus a 50-cent Hershey Bar for twenty bucks, the cost largely related to time and taking up space rather than ingredient quality here, but worth it for the novelty and fun-factor.
Burnt Broccoli Salad – Eggplant, Red Chili, Coriander, Wine
Crispy Potatoes – Cheese, Scallions
When Del Posto Pastry Chef Brooks Headley gave up fine dining to pursue Vegetarian Burgers in the Lower East Side the commentary was appropriately mixed, and although discussions of the death of fine dining continue in whispers while Headley racks up accolades it seems safe to say that both parties are happy with the outcome, Del Posto holding onto its Michelin Star while Brooks remains present and accounted for at Superiority Burger, a Sunday visit at 3:30pm seeing the space filled with a few folks sitting outside as the Chef himself was in the kitchen with his team, first frying Potatoes and then scrubbing out a blender.
Celebrated as much for its concept as the Food, everything served within the tiny restaurant either Vegetarian or Vegan with Cheese largely accounting for the difference, patrons looking for Superiority Burger will find the ramshackle sign hanging above a step-down space with five seats and enough room to fit perhaps a half-dozen more standing in wait, the kitchen manned by a team of five including the cashier and a man washing dishes.
Offering just a dozen items daily, the Gelato and Sorbet prone to regular change and three sides varying by ingredient availability, the ordering process at Superiority Burger is a simple one with preparation times generally less than ten minutes, no item on the menu more than $9 with the infamous Burger just $6 inclusive of Cheese, Lettuce, Tomato and a Pickle on a Potato Roll tinged in Yellow Mustard.
Described by some as “amazing” while other experienced diners prefer “mushy” or “a waste of time and nothing else but the product of the hype” the Superiority Burger itself is indeed a soft patty composed of Grains and Legumes with a lot of spice that *sort of* replicates the flavor of McDonald’s fast food favorite with a earthy linger, the presumptive healthiness based more on Carbon Footprints and Ethics than it is on calories or Macronutrients, the better bet being to stock up on superior Vegetables brought in from local markets including the Burnt Broccoli tangled with Peppers and Cashews amidst pureed Eggplant or “the closest thing that we have to French Fries” crispy Potatoes confited in Olive Oil and tossed in spice with just a bit of Cheese and Scallions.
Owned by Danny Meyer and Union Square Hospitality Group, it’s location at The Redbury on East 29th Street an elegant one just inside the Hotel doors, Marta has made waves since opening thanks to its cracker-thin Pizzas and Gratuity-inclusive policies, a Sunday afternoon Lunch finding the place largely empty but the food excellent, as was the service.
Toqued by Maialino’s Nick Anderer and focused on the idea of a Roman Pizzeria with Wood-fired ovens turning out Pizzas, Appetizers and Entrees with slightly different menus offered at Dinner as opposed to Lunch, it was as a party of three that the group was welcomed at the hostess podium before being led to a four-top adjacent large windows with a full-view of the kitchen, the restaurant largely empty on Memorial Day weekend, thus conducive to low volume conversation and rapid kitchen times, the menu’s prix-fixe overlooked as no one wanted Mimosas or Bloodys, the order instead consisting of two Pizzas, an Appetizer and two Desserts.
Cooking nearly everything in the Wood Fired ovens, traditional options available along with several novelties including many focused on Seasonal Ingredients, it was after a brief wait that two charred pies plus a bowl of Meatballs arrived at the table, the ground Chicken clearly delicious as the person ordering them scarfed themdown without offering anyone else a taste while both Pizzas featured a crust that crackled to the tooth without much flex but a whole lot of smoke, the $27 Stracciatella amply topped with Cheese and as good as any “Margherita” found outside of Lucali while the Patate alla Carbonara was good but oddly textured, the Potatoes still too fibrous while the Guanciale was a bit more briny than most.
Recently changing some of the savory items, but still offering five desserts and nine Gelatti or Sorbetti from Pastry Chef Jessica Weiss, those looking for something light to finish are encouraged to order either the Amarena Cherry Chip or Creamsicle Gelato while those looking for something a bit more rich can’t go wrong with the stick-a-spoon-up-straight Chocolate Budino with just the right amount of texture added by Meringue Crumble.
Part of New York’s growing Food Court fascination, with savories from Chef Yvan Lemoine and a Pastry program set up by Thiago Silva, Union Fare occupies an enormous footprint between 17th and 18th Street in the Flatiron, the dining room and bar filling one half while the other is comprised of a lengthy Pastry counter, Food stalls and event space.
Described as “a new industrial restaurant and modern gastrohall” and making waves on Instagram thanks to innovative Croissants, Cookies, Brownies and “Pretzel Bombs,” the full menu further invigorated by items like Carrot Cake Waffles and a $25 Monte Cristo, it was specifically with a focus on baked goods that two friends sat down to a half-dozen items tallying just under $25, only the dry-and-flavorless Snickerdoodle completely unrecommendable, while the rest is largely a matter of taste.
Certainly not a traditional Patisserie, even places like Chanson or Bouchon that occasionally offer novel flavors not going as far as Daily Provisions’ zany options, it was with three Cookies including the aforementioned Cinnamon disappointment that the sampling got underway, the Oatmeal Raisin round a reference standard version with a soft-center and crisp ring, the Black & White like a buttery Poundcake with good Frosting, both Vanilla and Chocolate.
Choosing to dine-in, long picnic-style tables lining the front half of the event space, it was with three hefty Croissants unloaded and pictures taken that each was tasted in succession, the Crème Brulee packing the laminated dough with soft Custard before torching sugar on top and the Social Media-friendly Birthday Cake putting Sprinkles in the Dough while Red Velvet uses dyed-Butter to achieve its desired effect, the former filled with soft Pink Buttercream while the Brick Red Pastry is stuffed with lightly sweetened Cream Cheese Frosting.
Presented by Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, the original concept essentially an outlet for Baked Goods from Gramercy Tavern, Daily Provisions has since turned into a busy spot for a quick bite or cup of Coffee, the tight space not deterring guests on Memorial Day weekend when 10:15am Sunday found the place packed with locals of all ages.
Quite literally about half the size of a Manhattan Studio Apartment, standing room for perhaps fifteen plus a few seats at the bar all that is available when accounting for the ordering podium and a few high-tops, all traffic is filtered to the center of the room on entry and with orders placed and payment made patrons are left to wait briefly for their name to be called, sometimes in two segments depending on the items selected.
Offering Breads, Pastries, Sandwiches and Ice Cream, the latter a collaboration with Portland’s Salt & Straw, it was with a small $4 scoop that Brunch at Daily Provisions started off, the price high even when compared to the Los Angeles Shops with rather basic flavors including Coffee with tiny Chocolate Chips, the Kouign Amann also ridiculously priced at $4.50 for what is essentially two bites, the flaky layers and Butter both plentiful, but not on par with Chanson where several varieties are available in larger sizes at a 50-cent lower cost.
Next delving into the O.G. Gougere, its prep time causing it to be sent out later than the rest and thus a hassle for those in line as diners along the wall attempt to traverse the space, the $5 ball of fluffy Eggs and Cheese is without a doubt the most impressive item offered on Daily Provision’s Breakfast menu, the newly-famous Cruller a bit more wet and eggy than the traditional French version, though it does a fairly nice job of playing off the Glaze which tastes like Pure Maple Syrup.
Now open for 103 years, the Café down the street joining the original Russ & Daughters Appetizers just a few years ago, it was on Memorial Day Weekend 2017 that the line on Sunday was found to be shorter than usual, a brief detour through the doors finding ticket 54 ready to be pulled, though an indecisive couple later asked to ‘trade-down’ from 46, the total time between entry and exit just under ten minutes.
Known for their multitude of Smoked Fishes, Cream Cheeses and housemade Sweets, additional available items including Bagels and Packaged Goods brought in from elsewhere, it was with nearly every person ordering a Bagel with some sort of Fish that patrons patiently waited, the narrow space at times a bit difficult to navigate without a pardon and squeezing between families and glass cases.
Offering by-weight sales, pre-packaged portions and service that is pleasant but brief it was as forty-six called that the counter was approached with three items already gathered, the addition of a “Daughter’s Delight” bringing the total to just under $30 with everything individually wrapped and placed in a brown paper bag to be taken elsewhere for consumption.
Sitting down in a small nearby park, each item sold in a portion large enough to share, it was with the aforementioned Bagel Sandwich unwrapped that first bites were taken, the Salmon silky and smooth beneath a thick smear of Cream Cheese and popping bubbles of Fish Eggs, the Bagel itself a bit dense – both here and in the Raisin and Prune-strewn Bread Pudding that likely would have been better warm, though even then it would have been a bit too dense and eggy.
Well-known for their Babka, both Cinnamon and Chocolate versions offered in whole or quarter-Loaves, it was with a small piece of the latter torn off that disappointment quickly followed, the crumb exceedingly dry, almost as though it was still left over from the prior day while the “Seven Layer” Halva offered a good balance of sweet and savory with a crisp break that slowly melts across the palate.
“Known as the best since 1898” reads the sign outside Katz’s Delicatessen, and now open from Friday morning straight through to Sunday evening it was early on Sunday that three first-timers circumvented the line to taste several legendary signatures, the “one ticket per adult” process making a bit more sense when the place isn’t filled to capacity and the whole meal completed in less than thirty minutes.
Long on the New York ‘to-do’ list, but previously passed-by due to enormous portion sizes, prices and a dining agenda that avoids filling up on too much of any one thing, it was with only perhaps a dozen additional patrons present that the counter was approached with a focus on variety, a sleepy-eyed man taking the whole order at once before unwrapping a whole new piece of Pastrami and offering both lean and fatty samples prior to making the Sandwich.
Proceeding to the end of the counter for Desserts and Drinks, the walls filled with iconic photographs and memorabilia entertaining others as an elderly couple took pictures at the “When Harry Met Sally” table, it was with tickets stamped that a tray and three plates were carried to seats at the center of the room, first tastes of a Latke showing the Potato Pancake to be crisp and light while the square Knish was densely packed to the point of bursting with Mashed Potatoes and Black Pepper.
Avoiding the Soup until it stopped steaming, the large bowl served in combination with any half-Sandwich for $18.99, it was with both styles of Pickle tasted that the Pastrami on Rye was divided into thirds, the Bread just a touch tangy while the Beef was supple and smooth without much visible fat, but a bold spice profile.
Sort of wishing for more Sandwich, but happy to see all-present enjoying the spread, Katz’s Matzo Ball Soup lived up to its reputation with a Broth that is clear yet chock-full of flavors beyond the typical Dill, the large ball at the center lighter that it looks, as too was the fluffy Black and White Cookie while the Carrot Cake dense and full of Raisins with tangy Cream Cheese dividing the layers.
Cultured Butter with Preserved Artichoke, Whipped Pork Fat with Herbs, Manitoba Loaf, Seed Bread, Barley Mash Herb Roll. Brown Butter and Rye Flat Bread
Bladderwrack – Blue Mussel
Langoustine – Cooked in aromatic Herbs, Nasturtium, Sauce made from the Head
Pommes Souffle – Roe from Winter Flounder smoked in dried Carrot tops
Oyster – Glidden Point, green Gooseberries, Juniper
Lamb Heart – cured and burnt in Begstraw and pickled Sunchoke
Scallop –Elderberry and Elderflower
Blood Pancake – Rose and Rosehip
King Crab – with burnt Potatoes cooked in Leaves and Yolk from Quail Egg
Kohlrabi – Compressed with Linden Leaf Oil and Linden Flower Vinegar, Winter Purslane
Skate – cured Wing, Celery Root puree with its Leaves, roasted Celery, unfiltered Rapeseed Oil and flowering Dill
Lichen – preserved Pine Shoots, Broth from Chanterelle Mushroom seasoned with Spruce Vinegar
Squid Tart – Tart made of Seaweed, charred Squid and Dulse puree
Beef – 120-day dry aged Rib Eye, preserved red and black Currants from last year, cured Beef Fat
Lilac – Unpasturized Cow’s Milk Sorbet, Cordial made from Lilac and Tree Flowers
Birchwood – Ice Cream made from Birchwood with Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Chanterelles and Woodruff
Mignardises – Blood and Rosehip, caramelized White Chocolate, Kronan Swedish Punsch, Sourdough Malt powder
Born and trained in Sweden, his creativity previously on display at Frej and Aska at Kinfolk Studios before aska moved beneath the Williamsburg bridge and earned Two Michelin Stars, Fredrik Berselius has continued to defy New York’s fine dining conventions of luxury ingredients and jackets-required dining rooms, the come-as-you are feel and willingness to take chances certainly not for the timid, but quite impressive for those willing to place their trust in the kitchen.
Unmarked at its location on South 5th Street, the outside grey with black doors while the interior is an austere combination of brick, wood and spotlights, entrance to aska is followed by a smiling welcome from a hostess followed by the restaurant’s GM, the use of Tock for pre-payment ensuring the room to be filled each day for a 19-course menu with the diner’s proclivities dictating the meal’s pace.
High ceilinged and hard, unseen speakers floating a mellow soundtrack above the room, it was just past six o’clock that Chef Berselius greeted the first wave of patrons, he and his team clearly having done their research as he inquired about where people were from, what they liked and why they had decided to visit his restaurant.
Offering a list of Wines by the Glass and Cocktails from the downstairs Bar, a 2013 Harslevalu going very well with approximately 3/4 of the menu, dinner began with a crisp Leaf of Bladderwrack with Blue Mussel Cream followed by a sizable Bread board and two spreads, the Sourdough Loaf and Barley Mash Roll both excellent, as was the Lardo-reminiscent whipped Pork Fat.
Going strong from the start and rarely letting up, an ebb and flow of finger foods and one-to-two bite morsels, the second course placed a plump Langoustine at the center of a bundle of Chamomile kissed by a blowtorch and snipped open diners, the smoky sweetness countered by Nasturtium, while the follow-ups featured a Potato puff topped in smoked Fish Roe and trimmed Oysters next to sour Gooseberries with a gentle hint of Pine.
Presenting the next plate as a single bite described as ‘Sourdough and Hake,’ the flavor rich and smoky with the crispy Milk Skin adding a textual element, the next two courses continued the charred theme by way of un-cured Sturgeon Roe straight from a Finnish Farm bathed in roasted Onions followed by a dollop of Lamb fat and pureed Sunchoke covered in Ash, the fact that those ashes came from a Lamb Heart completely imperceptible as the flavor was almost exclusively bitter save for a mild acidic note.
Bringing in live Scallops and merely kissing them with flame before opening the shell at course eight, the light florals of Elderflower building toward Berselius’ famous Blood Pancake topped in Roses and Rosehips to follow, dinner crossed the mid-point with a quenelle of Norwegian King Crab served in an aromatic broth ready to be fortified with Egg Yolk, the ‘burnt’ Potatoes a little tough but a pleasant contrast to the Crustacean’s briny sweetness.
Doing an admirable job of linking and transitioning flavors throughout the meal, but quickly pressing the ‘reset’ button by way of a crisp slice of Kohlrabi on ice before progressing to the evening’s final four savories, aska’s Skate was unfortunately compromised by several small bones despite the small portion, the “Lichen” a far better dish that was light in weight but rich in umami with a bright finish thanks to the Spruce Vinegar.
Serving a slimy Squid Tart as the penultimate savory, the combination of salt, smoke and fresh Horseradish not particularly delicious on its own but tying in nicely to the dry-aged Beef and intensely acidic sauce to follow, desserts took the predictable route of two Ice Creams followed by Mignardises, the “Lilac” properly described by the presenting Chef as a “mouthful of Flowers” while the follow-up was as delicious as it was bizarre, the Ice Cream essentially just a satin canvas for the candied and raw mushrooms plus sweet Woodruff.
Galette de Sarrasin – Buckwheat Crepe, Lobster, Egg, Basil
Crepenette de Volaille aux Foie Gras et Fruits – Chicken and Foie Gras, Roasted Pineapple
Comme un Clafoutis – French Pancake, Roasted Apples, Lime Zest, Crème Fraiche
Baba au Rhum – Rum, Cream
Recently taking home the James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant, a Stephen Starr project featuring Daniel Rose of Paris’ Spring, it was with high expectation that a party of three sat down at Le Coucou for Brunch, the service top notch from podium to presentation of the check while the food was just fair-to-middling, particularly considering the recent increase in quality of French Brasserie fare across the United States.
Located in the 11 Howard Hotel, a nice looking property that necessitates three-meal service each day, the space containing Le Coucou is an elegant one with wood floors, stone walls and white pillars, a turn around the far corner bringing diners face-to-face with a kitchen that runs long and narrow, classic copper cookware hanging above with the pass up front, a young female Chef on the line heard complaining about her workload at least twice during the meal as it appeared Chef Rose was not there.
Offering a concise menu throughout the day and evening, small changes differentiating Brunch from Lunch with Dinner expanding the number of choices slightly, it was with glasses of water filled and the announcement of “there are no specials today” that the decision was made to order Pastries followed by entrees, the sold-out Gougeres rendering that choice invalid and thus limiting the order to three savories and two Desserts.
Sitting and watching both the Kitchen and Sommelier at work, the restaurant completely full with plates coming over the pass almost nonstop, it was after perhaps twenty minutes that three dishes landed on the table along with share plates, a first taste of the Croque Madame showing the Brioche to be crisp although a bit thick while the Ham, Gruyere and Bechamel were good if not memorable, the lasting image one of a Sunny-side Egg that was overcooked.
Using good ingredients and priced accordingly, both the Crepenette de Volaille aux Foie Gras et Fruits and Galette de Sarrasin topping $25, it would be difficult to suggest that the serving of Lobster on the Crepe was anything more than skimpy while the Liver-centered ball of Meat was expectedly rich, though the roasted Fruit did do an admirable job of bringing some needed levity into the fold.
Receiving the piping-hot Pancake approximately ten minutes later, a result of the plate’s preparation time rather than anything intentional, those looking for Le Coucou’s Brunch standout are encouraged to order one to share amidst 2-4 individuals, the center thick ‘like a Clafoutis’ while the edges cook crisp, the Dessert menu completely different from that online yielding a reference-standard Baba Au Rhum completely soaked with Booze atop Citrus segments and filled with sweet Cream.
Moving from food truck to food stall in the newly opened Pennsy at 2 Penn Plaza it is with an expanded kitchen that Vegetarian-friendly Cinnamon Snail hopes to broaden its reach to a whole new clientele, a look at the new space surrounded by everything from Pat LaFrieda Meats to sustainable Seafood showing a wide variety of Donuts and Baked Goods plus a small menu of Sandwiches built around Seitan and Tofu.
Celebrated by food-conscious consumers ever since opening, owner Adam Sobel taking a cute approach involving Unicorns and Rainbows to food that proves to be as well thought out as it is interesting, a look at the morning offerings from The Cinnamon Snail include their eponymous Roll and nearly two-dozen additional Pastries, an ordering-system where one person hunts-and-pecks on an iPad while the other grabs items admittedly in need of some work in terms of both efficiency and accuracy.
Charging between $2.25 and $3.50 per selection, comparable to nearby Underwest Donuts and offering more variety plus a place to sit, those looking for a simple glazed ring can certainly find such things at Cinnamon Snail along with classics like the soft Apple Cider Cake Donut, but those seeking something ‘different’ are more likely to be tempted by other raised, Cake or Puff Pastry varieties, the Meyer Lemon Twist, for instance, eating like a Buttermilk Bar with a good mix of Sugar and Citrus.
Focusing a lot on all-natural Glazes and fillings, the Blueberry Rhubarb allowing the latter’s acidity to show in a manner some may find almost too aggressive, a more refined taste was found in the Blackberry and Roasted Fig that reminisces of the sort of thing one might see in fine dining as a Pan Sauce while the Apple Caramel Crumble was sort of like an Amish Apple Dumpling, the fruit roasted soft and sold with or without a cute Sugar Cookie featuring a Fox on top.
Speaking of Cookies, none specifically offered on the Cinnamon Snail menu this day, fans of raw Cookie Dough would be well-advised to order a filled round listed as ‘Peanut Butter Cookie Dough’ that features both Chocolate Ganache as well as what can best be described as a Peanut Butter Truffle, though this hefty ring should not prevent first timers from checking out the store’s eponymous item that comes across soft, springy and loaded with Frosting plus an ample amount of Cinnamon.
Famously known for its origins in a Carwash, but since opening a difficult-to-find kiosk at Two Penn Plaza, just to the left of the main entrance of Penn Station out front of Madison Square Garden, Underwest Donuts continues the small-batch trend started by Doughnut Plant with eight Cake-based choices offered daily, each $3.25 ring only differentiated by the style of the Glaze.
At one time a critical darling with each small-ish Donut priced at less than $2, but since taking advantage of its notoriety to expand the brand and the cost, Memorial Day weekend found one young woman working in tight quarters just 15-minutes after the 9am opening, the racks freshly filled with a variety of colors glistening beneath the ceiling lights.
A to-go only operation, the recently opened PENNSY and its outdoor patio not available till 11 o’clock, seating choices include nearby pavement or the transit station itself, those looking for something a bit more comfortable also enticed to grab a seat at the Starbucks across the street, though it seems a popular space for the homeless to nap at tables in the upstairs loft.
Unboxing and tasting the Donuts amidst a family of German tourists, the picture taking generating some stares, first bites of a ring described as Banana Milk showed a base that eats something like Poundcake with about 1/4cm of Oil penetration all around, the frosting at first quite sweet but then mellowing to a more natural Fruit flavor, the Halva not really tasting like anything specific aside from Sugar and a touch of Salt.
Leaving behind both Double Chocolate and the Lavender ‘Carwash,’ the server stating that it was “pretty floral,” it also turns out that the Jasmine Green Tea tasted mostly like a perfume bottle with a grassy finish, one bite more than enough before moving on to the sliced-Almond topped Brown Butter ring, this one pretty delicious as was the upscale Maple Dip topped in crunchy Waffle pieces.
Still advertising Raspberry Oatmeal, but in fact selling Strawberry, it would seem as though this would be a good place for Underwest to do something a little different in terms of its base, but in fact this one was the same as the rest, the glaze essentially identical to a ripe Berry straight from the field though it was difficult to see or taste the ‘Oatmeal’ influence.
Opened as part of the continued evolution of Grand Central Station, a place where the hustle and bustle of getting from Point A to Point B had long made considerations of anything more than the Oyster Bar irrelevant for most, the Great Northern Food Hall was imagined by the minds behind much of the ‘New Nordic’ movement that has continuously influenced fine dining ever since noma became the “best restaurant in the World,” a look at the project on Saturday showing it to be not only well executed, but popular amongst a diverse crowd.
Building the concept around existing architecture, a small bakery and deli plus the Danish Hot Dog stand found on the Vanderbilt corner while the rest of the stalls occupy a sprawling space adjacent the World-famous terminal, first impressions of the Food Hall are formed by clean lines and polished wood along with tiles and glass cases, a cuisine sometimes felt esoteric or ‘elitest’ immediately made accessible by presenting most items with a lengthy description and forms that are familiar from baked goods to Salads, Sandwiches and Bowls.
Forgoing a lot of the foraging, flowers and fermentation associated with the movement, but still involving a lot of ancient Grains, Berries and Herbs throughput the various stands, it was after a brief stop at Meyers Bageri that a seat at the far right end of Grain Bar was selected, a thin server with a Spanish accent taking orders and passing them on to bearded Cook, the request for customization with “Soy or Skim” Milk by a woman to the left flatly rejected, as was that for a “Mimosa or Cocktail” as she seemed somewhat confused as to what sort of bar this was.
Watching the team work as a few Pastries were tasted, the Banana Walnut Pound Cake a moist, all-natural sort sweetened only by the Fruit and smooth Frosting, those looking for something a bit more ‘north’ are encouraged to check out the high-elasticity Kanelsnurre that partially resembles a Cinnamon Roll tinged in Cloves, the seasonal Blood Orange Spandaur a beautiful work of lamination with the Sourdough base playing well off the Jam and Marzipan at the center.
Setting aside three more Pastries for later, the two bowls of Porridge now arrived, persons bellying up to Grain Bar before 11am are offered a half-dozen options plus a variety of additions, the warmed-and-mixed-to-order Pearl Barley smooth and hearty with Seasonal Fruit and Preserves while the housemade Granola dialed up texture much like caramelized Rye did in the Ollebrod , a creamy and light concoction featuring the acidic punch of Sea Buckthorn.
Saving the rest for later, though honestly not by much, Sea Buckthorn was once again featured in a Streusel-topped Muffin that took a whole different approach to Carrot Cake by putting the base itself in a slightly sour context, the $3 Rye Bar something like a Financier with more spring and big chunks of Chocolate while the Chocolate Chip Cookie buttery and fragrant with a soft-set center and crispy rim.
Veggie Combo Platter – Lettuce, Daikon, Bok Choy, Napa Cabbage, Water Cress
Mixed Mushroom Basket – Enoki, Oyster, White Beech, Shitake, Wood Ear, King Oyster
Already one of the hottest tickets in Chinatown, but planning a nationwide rollout and unwilling to offer a second rate experience as ownership hopes to bring Hot Pot culture to the American mainstream, it was on the invite of Joe Muscaglione that a party of four sat down in one of the private rooms at Chubby Cattle Mongolia Hot Pot House on South Jones Boulevard, a variety of tastes, ages and even religious preferences represented with all getting their fill of food that was not only well sourced and delicious, but also a whole lot of fun.
Dating back thousands of years in terms of its first references in Mongolia, but obviously much older in terms of the simple idea of cooking Protein, Vegetables and Herbs in a large vessel, Chinese Hot Pot in its current format is said to have gained nationwide acceptance somewhere during the Yuan or Ming Dynasty and although variations on the theme now exist throughout the Mainland, Japan and even the Philippines the idea of tableside communal cooking remains foreign to most American’s, a situation that Chubby Cattle’s focus on individual pots with shared ingredients soon hopes to change.
Originally opened in August 2016, but briefly closing recently for an internal remodel that brightened up the space while ownership went so far as to source A5 Wagyu from Japan and their own genetic line of Dorper Sheep to ensure quality of product as the conveyor belt-style space grows in reach, it was on opening night of version 2.0 that hundreds of patrons sat down to get a taste of one of five Soups and nearly seventy diverse items to cook tableside, everything from Mushrooms and hand-cranked Noodles to Pork Blood and Geoduck included.
Fortunately spared the forty-minute waits and close set tables, the later not particularly a turn-off as the action behind glass at both ends of the room may be as entertaining to some as the persons with whom they are sharing a meal, it was just past 7:00pm during the height of the rush that a server explained Chubby Cattle’s concept before presenting four different Soups and turning the electric burners up to three, the aromatics soon perfuming the air with bubbling to commence just a few minutes afterward.
Allowing the staff to make selections at will, one member of the table abstaining from Pork and Shellfish consistently pleased from beginning to end with her Tomato-based Broth and items including an impressive variety of leafy Greens and Mushrooms including thin King Oyster slices and pillowy Wood Ears that became soft and thoroughly saturated after just a quick bath in the Soup, other Soup bases ranging $5-6 included Mixed Mushroom and the traditional Pork based version as well as the “Hellishly Hot” one with dried Chili Peppers, a similar base used in the daily special Crawfish Broil with Corn, Shrimp and Mussels all intermingling with fresh Crustaceans just flown in from New Orleans the prior evening.
Making two trips to an all-you-care-to-eat Toppings and Salad Bar as the table waited briefly for ingredients to arrive, both the Seaweed and Cucumber Salad very good with the former lightly spiced and the later pickled and refreshing when transitioning between various ingredients at the table, other choices such as Korean Hot Sauce, Soy, Crispy Garlic and even Sugar were available for those looking to augment flavors completely to their liking, a bit of still-steamy Hellishly Hot with a tablespoon of Peanut Butter proving a great way to enjoy Tofu, whether fleshly sliced and gelatinous or fried, springy and soft.
Pairing the meal with two Wines, the Red going over well with most while the Riesling with a bit of residual sugar stood up well to both the Hot and Traditional broths, it was not long before a plate of Beef arrived featuring Brisket, Ribeye and Japanese Wagyu, a bit of resistance needed to resist simply eating the latter as it was, the first attempt to not overcook the thin slices a notable failure with the heat subsequently turned down to 1, a thirty second dip yielding just the right amount of cooking to maximize both texture and flavor.
Next offered a platter of chilled Seafood, the communal table adjacent going all-out with live Shrimp and Lobster but missing out on the freshly shucked Scallops and Manila Clams that took a while to yield themselves to low heat, it was only the skimpy King Crab that proved the slightest bit disappointing, the previously frozen meat a bit mushy in its texture while the Tiger Shrimp, when properly cooked, were snappy and delicious complete with head, shell and tail.
Told that the hand-cut Sheep was something special, a simple glance at the brick-red muscle and rim of fat indicating a quality breed with a backstory that includes cross-breeding and genetics that were specifically sought out by the owners of Chubby Cattle, it was with pots set at two that raw flesh turned into juicy morsels with an up-front funk but clean finish, the hand cranked noodles available in three-varieties rounding things out and great not only as ‘filler,’ but also based on fact that they cook up well in just minutes while still maintaining a bit of tooth even if they spend a more lengthy amount of time in the broth.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: With little basis for comparison aside from a few fine-dining Shabu-Shabu courses it would seem that the folks at Chubby Cattle are doing everything right to dominate a field that most Americans would likely find both accessible and fun if given a chance to see it for themselves, the quality of the ingredients every bit worth a price-tag that seems ‘cheap’ only because the portions are sensible and offered a la carte with most patrons likely to be happily sated with food that is mostly quite healthy for under $20.
RECOMMENDED: Hand Cut Texan Dorper Sheep, Mixed Mushroom Basket, Signature Hand-Cut Beef Combo, Noodle Combo, Hellishly Hot Soup.
AVOID: King Crab.
TIP: 5:00pm to 12:30pm Daily. Reservations available by phone or online.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
In charge of Pastries at Carnevino for some time, those with fond memories of the Chocolate & Peanut Butter Torte or a particularly splendid Bomboloni at the end of their meal owing thanks to her and the team, it was only recently that Ashley Costa was given the title of Pastry Chef at both the city’s premier source of Dry Aged Steaks and its sister B&B Burgers & Beer near the Venetian Sports Book, the dual role finally giving the latter more than just Shakes while late Spring/early Summer shows continued Seasonal inspiration infusing five new selections available at the Italian Steakhouse.
Recently feeling inspired to talk more about Chefs that exist outside the spotlight, particularly those doing work that might otherwise go unmentioned in places where other great Chefs and outstanding products are prone to dominate the conversation, it was as part of an interview with Ms. Costa that I sat down to taste the whole new collection from Batali and Bastianich’s skilled young Pastry Chef, a seat at the bar mine over the course of ninety minutes and a dozen creations while David “Coop” Cooper kept up the conversation as the restaurant prepared to once again do over six hundred covers.
Arranged by Ashley and Chef Nicole Brisson as a four course experience, La Colombe’s Nizza Espresso always a great way to cleanse the palate between bites whether salty or sweet, it was after a brief greeting from Ms. Costa that course one arrived featuring two familiar plates given a seasonal twist, the Coconut Panna Cotta a creamy round topped with Intuitive Forager’s Seasonal Berry selection, Toasted Coconut , and Kiwi Sorbet while the trio of Donuts were as lightly fried as ever, the inside stuffed to bursting with Praline Cream while the plate was garnished with poached Rhubarb and Blackberry Juice plus stiffly Whipped Cream and Hazelnuts.
Unaware of what would arrive next, the element of surprise only spoiled when a menu was requested after three courses to see what was yet to come, round two featured two completely new items that should feature prominently in any local or tourist’s dining agenda, the S’more Tart similar to Michel Bras famous Fondant with the thin walls crumbling and Dark Chocolate pouring forth to meet housemade bruleed Marshmallows and Graham Cracker crumbs while the Sfoglitella with Harry’s Strawberries, Sweetened Ricotta and Gelato was a flaky, delightful surprise rarely seen in Las Vegas in the days since the closure of Montesano’s.
Appropriately taking a more casual approach to new B&B Burgers & Beer menu, the outstanding Nutella and Bourbon Cherry Shakes assuredly still available in addition to an Oreo Cookie concoction that is lighter than most thanks to the combination of Whipped Cream and quality Gelato, additional offerings feature four Cookies including a perfect Snickerdoodle and Ice Cream Sandwich of Brown Butter Chocolate Chip rounds plus a made-to-order Cannoli with light Citrus Cream that makes the soggy pre-filled shells served at Buddy V’s or Carlo’s down the hall particularly disappointing.
Going one-and-one for the final round, another Americano ready and waiting, it was with two ‘cakes’ that the tasting would end, both originally formulated for B&B but only the moist Chocolate Cake with dueling Nutella frostings remaining on that menu, the Salted Caramel Cheesecake instead ported over to Carnevino where California’s best Berries are reduced down to serve over the velvety base with a golf-ball sized round of Whipped Cream and crumbled Amaretti Cookies.
FIVE STARS: Continuing to evolve the Carnevino menu seasonally even as she was tasked with creating several new selections for B&B Burgers & Beer there was not one unbalanced taste or unappealing texture amongst the late-Spring/early-Summer Dessert offerings at either of the spaces under the guidance of Chef Costa, planned changes at B&B Ristorante and the opening of Eataly hopefully seeing even more quality desserts from the B&B Hospitatliy Group, whether headed up by Ashley or another of Mario’s culinary team.
TIP: Both new menus launched in-full on May 17th, though online details are not yet 100% accurate. Additional offerings at B&B include all the classic Shakes while Carnevino still features the Chocolate & Peanut Butter Torte and Tiramisu.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Brigadeiro Beast – Slowly Cooked Condensed Milk, Brazilian Nescau Milk Chocolate, Choco Power Mini Balls
To suggest that South Eastern Avenue makes up in quantity for what it lacks in quality would be an understatement, for every one CRAFTkitchen or Standard & Pour there are at least ten chain restaurants, three questionable Taco shops and twenty Fast Food Drive-thrus, thus when news broke that the former cooking school in a plaza best known for Crepes, Popcorn and Custard would be converted into a Social Eating concept headed by a former Chef from Joel Robuchon it unsurprisingly raised some eyebrows.
Stated to be “not a bar, a pub nor a restaurant” on its website, but rather a “local no-frills meeting place for friends and family,” even as it proudly touts Chef Rachel LeGloahec’s fine-dining pedigree on a separate page, Boteco opened on 5/12/17 to limited fanfare on Social Media in the face of substantial hype for two other new restaurants, the decision to pay such an early visit based largely on a Brunch menu that seemed significantly underpriced for the sort of plates it suggested.
Owned by the same people involved with the cooking school, the change in concept bringing Maine native and former White Barn Inn Chef LeGloahec into the fold to create dishes of “superior flavors made from seasonal and fresh ingredients,” first impressions on entering Boteco are created by clean lines and dark leather with light-fixtures made from repurposed Wine bottles, the music overhead a low-key blend of everything from the xx to The Shins with only one other diner present just past 9:30am on Saturday, the hotrod show outside seeing the parking lot quite full as Crepe Expectations’ line snaked out it’s door.
Describing its cuisine as “embrac(ing) recipes that are fused from cultures around the world – no borders or boundaries,” but clearly taking a French angle given the Chef’s pedigree and list of ingredients, those visiting Boteco for Brunch are greeted by a menu of less than a dozen plates ranging anywhere from Pancakes and a Parfait to Steak and Eggs or a Foie Gras Benedict, plus Espresso drinks served at even-higher-than-the-Strip charge of four bucks per shot, no discounts for a double with the cost on the bill for two a staggering sixteen dollars.
Reportedly offering free Mimosas on this particular morning, though it was not until the Chef stopped by that the deal was explained…and no Mimosa ever did arrive…it was with an all-in approach omitting Caviar, Oysters and a Charcuterie board that seven plates were ordered to divide amongst three people, the dishes sent out as they were readied from the kitchen with portions quite big for the price-point, though one wished frequently that the pace of a place suggesting it “provides the set and the setting to slow down in the company of one another and exchange experiences paired with great conversation” would course things out more appropriately and, indeed, ‘slow down.’
Admittedly still in its earliest days, the lone server overselling most dishes but generally quite pleasant and well-versed in the ingredients and technique, Brunch began with the Mt. Charleston Parfait featuring Organic Greek Yogurt and housemade Birchemuseli with a wide variety of Fruits and Berries, the fact that Cherries had not been pitted a risky mistake that fortunately did not cause any harm while the $12 Champagne Pancakes pictured and described on the menu as ‘Japanese style’ were instead served as a Dutch Baby with a side of Champagne Zabaglione, the menu updated just 48-hours later now listing the version served appropriately for a cost of $4 less than what was paid.
Told by the Chef that changes were already upcoming, a mere eight days and two Brunch services apparently enough to inform the owners that some terminology was ‘scaring off’ potential patrons, plate three featured Blueberry Gravlax now described on the menu as Vodka Cured Salmon, the velvety housemade Fish nicely paired to traditional accoutrements with more than enough to go around while the Coq Au Vin (or Chicken & Mash) was a truly remarkable dish with tender Chicken, Mushrooms and Vegetables cooked in the classic style with Red Wine and served with near-Robuchon quality 50% Butter Mashed Potatoes.
As yet not unafraid to challenge diners with a few luxury ingredients, though the updated Brunch Menu seems to have done away with Charcuterie, Cheese, Oysters and Caviar in exchange for Cobb Salad, Breakfast Casserole and a ‘Hangover’ Patty Melt, those interested in something truly decadent should happily invest $14 in the Foie Gras Benedict complete with two 63° Eggs atop Buttered Brioche and Mushroom-Bacon Hash, the now-dinner-only Sliders another great bite with a loose grind topped in Bacon Jam and Gouda while the previously misspelled “Steak & Sunny Side Laktes” are now termed Steak & Eggs with Potato Pave, a $1 price-cut from $14 really not something Boteco should have had to do as the Medium-rare Steak tasted as good as many of the city’s “Dry-Aged” versions with melting Garlic Butter and a stack of thinly sliced Potatoes cooked crispy.
Not always offering Desserts at Brunch, but happy to do so if some have already been readied for Dinner service, it was with a complimentary taste of the texture-rich “Brigadeiro Beast” that the meal came to its conclusion, the flavor of Brazilian Nescau Milk Chocolate far more bitter than some might expect while the Salted Caramel Budino was simple and well-balanced with flecks of Fleur de Sel, the elegant presentation at first appearing a touch small but in reality plenty to share around and the perfect amount of sweet at the end of a pleasant breakfast.
THREE AND A HALF STARS: Difficult to assess as ownership has already shown an unprecedented degree of impatience by changing the menu less than two weeks in, Chef LeGloahec clearly has her work cut out for her if she is create something truly special in a part of town long in need of more interesting dining options, the choices made thus far unfortunately not showing much faith in the concept and certainly not focused in the right places as the cooking was at about 90% while issues such as the Coffee cost and lack of public engagement are yet to be remedied.
Panna Cotta – Bourbon Caramel, Candied Pecans, Blackberries
Dominican Dark Chocolate S’mores – Graham Cracker, Dominican Dark Chocolate Mousse, Toasted Soft Marshmallow
HeXx Venezuelan Chocolate
Ever since switching over from Sugar Factory in early 2015 the team at HeXx Kitchen + Bar has been steadily improving its product, the misguided decision to remove Carrot Cake Pancakes from the Brunch menu seemingly the only bad choice made at a restaurant with an enviable view of the Bellagio Fountains, though up until recently the Dinner menu had never really offered an impetus to visit later than 2pm – a situation that the hiring of Due Forni’s Carlos Buscaglia has already seen change in just one month.
Notably one of the few restaurants in the Harrah’s empire that is independently owned, external funding both a gift and a curse for the 24/7 restaurant that tries to differentiate itself from other ‘everything to everyone’ spots while still acknowledging itself as an American eatery with gigantic Cocktails, Burgers, Pizza and the obligatory Salmon entrée, HeXx at night is a far different scene from the daytime venue that is often mobbed with everything from families to bachelorette parties, the menu ranging from Snacks and Appetizers to Soups, Salads, Pastas and Steaks while the hidden gem of a Chocolate program fuels a dessert menu that has recently been trimmed in lengthy, though three new items were added while others were improved upon.
Seated indoors while the sun set over The Strip, lights coming on at the fountains where big booms every half-hour coincided with a crew currently putting together a new show for the summer, it was with brief greetings from Carlos and service from a gregarious fellow named Kevin that several selections were made from a menu that has undergone an approximate 25% face-lift, one of HeXx’s thirty-eight dollar ‘Potions’ kicking things off with the Hendrix-themed drink bubbly and Fruit forward featuring four types of Booze plus fresh Berries while the Virgin-Strawberry Mojito was brisk and refreshing, though those leery of Mint may wish to avoid it.
Allowing the kitchen to send out items as they liked, the meal eventually divided into five courses inclusive of dessert, dinner began with four plates from the Snacks and Appetizers sections, the Candied Bacon quite different from the version previously offered at Breakfast in terms of its thickness and the light flavors of Cinnamon and Nutmeg while the Roasted Beet Salad could compete with most in town thanks to the Pistachio Yogurt and sweet Quinoa Crackers, a bit of spice brought to the table by way of Chicharrones served with Pickled Chiles and a squeezer of Lime Vinaigrette plus Rings and Tentacles of Squid fried crispy in batter tinged with Tobasco plus chopped Vegetables and a light drizzle of Ranch Dressing.
No longer blessed by the dual ovens of Due Forni, but gaining a whole lot of kitchen in the process, course two saw Chef Buscaglia send out two Pizzas that unfortunately could not match his former spot in terms of Crust quality but made up for it by way of toppings including an Egg plus Boursin Cheese paired to Benton’s Ham in one case and a great mélange of Vegetables accented by Curry in the other, Carlos showing his pasta skills next by way of springy curls of Gemelli topped in melted Burrata and a meaty Ragu while the housemade Gnocchi served as a tender backdrop to a split Lobster Tail given the Carbonara treatment with Peas and Pork Belly.
Warning us that the Jambalaya was not his favorite dish, but happy to send out the boldly seasoned Rice with juicy Chicken, Spicy Sausage and Shrimp alongside the revamped Fried Chicken and housemade Pickles atop a puffy Waffle imbued with Cheese and sliced Apples, it was surprisingly Chef Buscaglia’s seared Scallops atop pureed Onions and briny Ham that proved to be the entrée of the night, though not to be outdone was a mix of simple mixed Mushrooms of various sizes and textures, the base to a newly featured Salmon dish also served as a side for the sake of tasting with slow-cooked Quinoa imbued with Squid, its Ink and Mushrooms showing a whole lot of commitment to craft and attention to detail.
Long a fan of Chef Carol Garcia’s desserts, only the retired Bread Pudding ever disappointing in the slightest, it was joking with Carlos that Due’s Bread Pudding should be brought over to HeXx featuring their Chocolate that three new desserts plus one re-vamp were presented, the warm Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting as well as Ice Cream now challenging CRAFTkitchen for Sin City’s best while a trio of new creations all vied for attention, the boozed up Panna Cotta a light dish perfect after a big meal while the Dominican Dark Chocolate S’mores features HeXx’s newest Bean-to-Bar origin beneath bruleed Fluff and Graham Crackers, the Chocolate Peanut Butter & Jelly Jar putting Tanzanian Mousse amidst Peanut Butter Cream, Pinot Noir Jam, halved-Peanuts and the flavor of toasted Bread for familiar taste reimagined that is perfect for sharing.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Not quite as dialed-in as Brunch, but still outperforming any other 24/7 spot on the Strip in terms of Food quality and guest experience it likely will not be long before Chefs Piekarski, Silverman, Buscaglia and Garcia have HeXx humming all day and night, the recent changes improving on an already great concept that continues to improve with each visit.
RECOMMENDED: Pork Rinds, Buffalo Calamari, Gnocchi, Black Quinoa Risotta (in our case a side, but usually served as the set-up for Salmon,) Gnocchi, Scallops, Carrot Cake, Chocolate Peanut Butter & Jelly Jar.
AVOID: Those expecting Carlos to be able to replicate his pies at Due Forni will be a bit disappointed in the Crust.
TIP: Having heard from many that the “4.7% Concession Fee” is a point of contention, a direct question to someone at HeXx indicates that this charge is stated as being related to the “High cost of doing business on the Strip without being affiliated with Harrah’s. If a guest even mentions it, it will be removed from the bill without question.”
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Opened in the final days of 2015 and still a hidden gem half-way between the Bellagio Conservatory and Ballrooms currently hosting the SALT Conference, it was on an atypical Thursday that two diners sat down in the lounge at Harvest by Roy Ellamar, a “Snack Wagon takeover” by Josh Smith of Bardot Brasserie providing an impetus to revisit a restaurant that continues to do great things with some of the best Produce and Proteins in Sin City.
Originally described by Ellamar as “an homage to the origin of food,” and slowly growing in creativity and content to meet a challenging clientele that is half-conference attendees and half-culinary interested tourists, 2016 saw the restaurant begin to entice locals by offering a series of Guest Chef events, everyone from Off-Strip favorites like Dan Krohmer to Superstars like Michael Mina taking their turn behind a dim-sum style push cart where they can interact with guests as they prepare 2-4 unique dishes.
Having visited and wrote about Harvest early on, but since forgetting about the place when making dining plans largely as a result of its location and lack of press, it was with warm greetings from the recently returned Nick Servedio that patrons were seated at high-tops overlooking the bar and renovated Sensi kitchen-space, the smell of smoke and shellfish soon recognizable as Chef Smith wheeled by his cart featuring a pot poached Lobster tails ready for a tableside cooking display.
Ever a sizable and compelling space, the multi-million dollar overhaul still looking as fresh as it did sixteen months prior, it was after a quick perusal of both Harvest’s frequently-updated menu and an Ipad of mixed drinks that decisions were made to begin the meal with a full range of Snack Wagon treats before moving on to more substantial plates, a Martini titled “Pear Harvest” refreshing and light, perfect for the warmer months despite the expected ‘Strip-Pricing’ of $17.
Not as intimate or low-lit as the tables surrounding a kitchen full of hard-working Chefs, but instead a lively space perfect for a quick bite at the bar or shared plates with pals, it was with dueling carts roaming around the lounge that Chef Smith first stopped by with his two offerings for the evening, the first a taking a poached Lobster Tail and placing it briefly on a Binchotan Grill before plating it atop the sort of Aligot Michel Bras would be proud of plus sauce imbued with Lobster Coral while the Foie Gras Mille Feuille was even better than the sum of its worthy parts, the compressed Puff Pastry lightly coated in Sugar around a Mousse of Duck Liver plus a rich Pan Sauce, early-season Morels and Fava Beans.
Next greeted by the name on the marquee, Chef Ellamar ever humble in explaining how a recent trip back to Hawaii had influenced much of the current menu, the night’s second Snack Wagon featured small bowls of Ahi cured in Miso atop diced Tomatoes and Avocado alongside a chilled Soup of Arugula warmed by Pork Belly straight from a searing hot Salt Rock, the Smoked Salmon Rillette on Toast a tasty two-mouthfuls each while the weekly updated Market Snacks brought in fresh produce from California yielded three salads, the most memorable a spin on Bibimbap made with grilled Delta Asparagus, Red Chili Paste and Sesame Oil with a Sunny Side Egg on top.
At this point opting to defer all further choices to Mr. Servedio and Chef Roy, several items from sections titled Ranch, Ocean, Boards and Sides to follow, Harvest’s Steak Tartare comes from a place quite unlike most of the chopped Beef choices on the Strip by placing Grass-Fed Tenderloin in the setting of Poke with briny Kettle Chips for serving while the Kona Kampachi dials in the Asian sensibilities of Nobu by way of sweet-heat alongside clean and snappy flesh, the Roasted Octopus unfortunately a little overpowered by the spicy Pork Sausage while the crisp Naan Bread from the old Sensi oven was as good as ever with Cucumber Raita and green, both in terms of color and waste-reduction, Beet Top Pesto.
A lot of small plates, but adding up quickly as bold and balanced flavors compel diners to enjoy every bite, entrees prove to be more substantial and are easily shared by a couple when paired with few sides, the Line-Caught Halibut flaky and capable of holding its own against Dashi Butter plus bitter Vegetables while the Pork Chop from Tails & Trotters in Oregon was so fatty and tender it could just as easily be mistaken as something straight out of Spain, the fragrant Rub playing well off accoutrements including Carrot Puree embued with Truffles while sides of Smashed Potatoes and Tempura Asparagus were simple yet elegant, the ‘Kimchi Dip’ textured like Cream Cheese but with a bit of heat and a whole lot of funk.
Having done away with the Dessert Cart previously served in a style similar to the Snack Wagon, the size of the restaurant simply making such a thing impractical when the pastry team can execute better within the confines of a kitchen, Harvest’s seasonal updates include a skillet-baked Blueberry Crumble that gets the classic right by way of small bits of Puff Pastry and tangy Lemon Sorbet while the Chocolate Ganache riffs on the flavor of Nutella with a bit of Tiramisu influence by way of Cappuccino Ice Cream, the Coconut Panna Cotta inspired by Chef Ellamar’s trip back to the Islands a great choice for those seeking something light while everyone else should make it a point to order a Sticky Toffee Pudding that would make fans of the one at Gordon Ramsay Steak wonder why they’ve been subjecting themselves to that room for so long when they could be eating something richer, smoother and more balanced in a place that is far less an assault on the senses.
FOUR AND A HALF STARS: Improved from the past, and only likely to get better as small changes are made to a menu and space that are both incredibly flexible thanks to the amount of space and quality of sourcing, Harvest remains a rarity in the land of Celebrity Chefs and menus stocked with nothing but Salmon, Scallops and Burgers, the Snack Wagon Takeovers just another sign of a team thinking outside the box and challenging customers, both local and visiting, to do the same.
RECOMMENDED: Whatever the Snack Wagon is offering, Naan Bread, Tempura Asparagus, Grilled Pork Chop, Sticky Toffee Pudding, Panna Cotta.
AVOID: The Octopus was a bit lost amidst the Chorizo and the Kettle Chips with the Tartare could have used a bit less salt.
TIP: Snack Wagon Takeovers are announced as they are planned, by Social Media and occasionally on the website though the menu itself is infrequently updated.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
Giant Burrito – Carnitas, Rice, Beans, Cheese, Pico de Gallo, Red Sauce, Guacamole, Sour Cream
Butter Cookies
Guava Empanada
Apple Empanada
Guava Besos
Sprinkle Cake
Located in Las Vegas out near Nellis Air Force Base since the late 2000s, a family run place that has recently rebranded from “Mama Maria’s Mexican Restaurant and Panaderia” to “Maria’s Mexican Restaurant, Bakery and Catering,” though signage facing East Lake Mead Boulevard still bears the old name, it was prior to a Graduation Party that our group of three stopped in for what was hoped to be some well-made Southwestern cuisine at a good price, the subsequent hour and forty-five minutes instead spent mostly sitting in wait as two servers meandered around the room somewhat aimlessly.
Known best of all for their Giant Burritos and Nachos, neither particularly rare amongst local Mexican eateries but here said to be bigger and better than most, it was just past 5:00 that two adults and one child entered the combined Restaurant/Carry-Out and Bakery tucked into a small Shopping complex, an invitation to seat ourselves suggested from a woman in back as only two other families were present, a family of four soon to settle the bill and thus leaving only five patrons present for the duration of the visit.
Eventually electing a rounded booth set against a pony-wall diving restaurant from store, the kitchen window in full view along with a few murals of Mexico as Latin music chimed above, it was with menus in hand that two pages of Food plus one of Drinks was quickly navigated as a plate of sizzling Fajitas was brought to a middle-age Caucasian couple across the way, the server not even making eye contact as she walked, nor as she returned to the register where she proceeded to clean the cash register CPU with a disposable cloth.
Eventually offered water by the ‘hostess,’ a bowl of warm Corn Tortillas and Chunky Salsa without much heat soon to follow, it was with phrasing something along the lines of “the waitress will be back to take your order” that this woman disappeared to the back, the ‘server’ continuing to pay no mind to anything but her task at hand and not once acknowledging the dining room until twenty minute later, when she walked by to check on the other table and was alerted by a rather loud clearing of the throat.
Having twice now debated getting up to leave, or at least to visit the Bakery for some snacks on the way out, it was again with a delay that diners awaited the young woman’s return with a pen to jot down an order consisting of two plates and one drink to be shared, the $4 Frozen Margarita with quite a bit of booze admittedly a great deal in a portion that would typically cost guests closer to $15 on The Strip.
Not really needing much guidance on such a straightforward menu, the kitchen moving slower than one would guess given the low volume but clearly visible making all but the pre-breaded Tenders from scratch, it was perhaps twenty more minutes before two large plates of food would arrive including the Sample Platter highlighted by tightly rolled Chicken Taquitos plus Nachos, Quesadillas and Chicken Fingers that even the most novice college student could make at home, the Burrito bigger and thicker than a 9-year old’s arm a far better choice at just $10.95, the enormous Flour Tortilla stuffed with fragrant Rice, Refried Beans, roast Pork and Pico de Gallo beneath melted shreds of Cheese and a peppery Red Sauce.
Impressed by the moist Meat in the Burrito, though others might opt for Carne Asada, Chicken, Roast Peppers or ground Beef, it was with both plates mostly cleared and a sample of thin, spicy ‘Mole’ tasted that the check was requested not once or twice but three times, the decision at this point made to visit the Bakery next door where a variety of perhaps two-dozen items were offered from an on-site kitchen, the Guava Besos soft and fluffy with sweetness mellowed by Coconut while the Butter Cookies and Turnovers were both fair-to-middling, a far better option available in a Sprinkled Cake wedge that at first looked a little dry but proved to be both soft and not too sugary, the whole to-go Box costing just $3.85.
TWO STARS: No doubt an affordable dining option with Food that is middle-of-the-road Mexican save for the Giant Burrito, Maria’s Mexican Restaurant, Bakery and Catering would be difficult to recommend for anyone save for those who live in the area and have a lot of time to waste, though the pickings are admittedly slim in this part of Las Vegas.
